Tuesday, September 16, 2025
Battersea, London
A Muddled Kind of Day—with Superlative Food at Rochelle Canteen and Bursa Restaurant
I had a leisured wake-up phase today. For one thing, I savored the feeling of waking up in one of my favorite rooms in the world—the guest room in my friend Roz’s home in Battersea. Occasionally, a train goes past on the railroad lines right opposite and, far from finding them a disturbance, I think their sounds are evocative to me of journeys to places unknown and parts unseen. Sometimes (like now), there is the distant hum of a passing airplane—as this route is on the flight path to Heathrow airport. Other than these sounds of transportation, the world is silent and serene here on Simpson Street and I absolutely love this sensation of waking up to the endless possibilities of another glorious day in London.
When I finished blogging, editing my photographs and sending them off to family and friends, I finally went downstairs, one flight below to the bathroom to shower and get set for the day. Then I joined Roz for breakfast—granola with yogurt and milk, mixed nuts and fresh chopped nectarines—a fruit I do not get in Bombay but rather enjoy occasionally. This was washed down with a delicious cup of decaff coffee—courtesy of Roz’s Coffee Bar! Then, leaving her to get on with a very busy day, I decided to get going too.
Off on the Bus to Battersea Power Station:
Roz’s home is not served by a Tube station—but there are buses a-plenty, just a few minutes’ away from her front door. She recommended I take the bus to Vauxhall from where I would get the Tube to Green Park as I decided to go and see the Keifer-Van Gogh exhibition at the Royal Academy (as it was closed yesterday). I had a bit of time to kill before my lunch appointment with my friend, Edward. Initially, I had thought of taking my intended walk up Primrose Hill this morning—but then I’d had too late a start (I left the house only at 10.45) and would be unnecessarily stressed for my meeting with Edward. Better to play it by ear.
As it turned out, we happened to be passing by Battersea Power Statiion (and since this was on my agenda of places to visit on this trip), I made an impulse decision to get off and explore it instead. Over the past few years, during my annual visits to London, this place was under major refurbishment—it finally opened just before my last visit to London (about three years ago).
It is astounding what they have done to the place. They took the Victorian Power Station building (which is simply gorgeous in its intricate concrete and fine red brick work) which had lain in disuse for at least a generation and decided to refurbish it to make it a community center of sorts. It would include a multi-plex cinema theater, handpicked restaurants (no chains), and high-end shops selling exclusive merchandise. Around it has sprung up at least a dozen high-rise buildings and, on top of everything else, they have built a new Tube station here which connects to the Northern Line. Everyone who made an investment in a flat in one of these buildings is probably laughing all the way to the bank today!
I walked inside what was a practically empty building. Every single high-end shop was empty—the poor salespeople faced with one more boring day. There are no chain-shops here (no Boots or Superdrug, etc.). There is a Boots outside, but not within (I can only imagine how expensive rents are if the developers need to recover construction costs). I was stunned by the vastness and size of the space. There are two Turbine Halls, No 1 and No 2, where gigantic turbines once harnessed water power through the Thames and converted it for domestic use. These turbines have been removed leaving the central space free for people to wander around, in and out of shops. Sadly, these expensive, exclusive shops will probably never be frequented by the well-heeled—they would, I am certain, prefer to go to Sloane Square or wander down the King’s Road. Anyway, once I got a flavor of the redevelopment and saw, for myself, how astoundingly it has been reconceived, I left.
Clothes Shopping at M and S:
Quite handily, I saw a Boots right outside and went straight in to replenish my stock of lipsticks for the year. I found them on sale and grabbed a bunch. I also found my Boots No. 7 Day and Night Cream on a 3 for 2 offer. So I picked them up too! That was two major items out of the way.
Next, I entered M and S and looked for trousers—I wanted wide-legged dress trousers in four colors—black, gray, navy blue and brown. But, long story short, they did not have my size and after consulting with the very helpful sales folk, I found out that the M and S at Marble Arch has them all in stock. So at some point, I will get there and grab them.
That done, I decided to try and find a Superdrug to buy my stock of Dove Body Wash in Nourishing Silk fragrance—which I have used for the past 17 years. I was not sure what to do as I still had some time to kill before meeting Edward. So I simply got into the new Tube station at Battersea Power Station and rode the Northern Line and then changed to the Central Line to alight at Holborn. I knew there was a Superdrug on High Holborn. It amazes me how wonderfully London keeps its public transport growing and flourishing by adding new lines as the city and the population keep expanding. Indeed, there is no doubt in my mind that this city has the world’s best public transportation.
b>Shopping on High Holborn:
So, High Holborn is my former stomping ground—I know every inch of it well. Except that shops come and shops go, as do restaurants—so while the basic structure of the place remains unchanged, good luck trying to find a favorite eatery or store if you’ve been away for a while. Superdrug had my body wash on sale on a 2 for 1 offer. They had only one of my needs in stock—so I left. I was told that there was another Superdrug just one stop away at Chancery Lane—so off I went there. And yes, I was lucky, I found a vast stock there, in my own former building. I put four bottles in the basket—my stock for the whole year (or two) and then, just laden down with my purchases, I descended down the Tube stairwell at Chancery Lane Tube Station (my former station) and rode it for one stop to St. Paul’s Cathedral where I had an appointment with my friend, Edward at 12. 45pm on the steps.
Off for Lunch to Rochelle Canteen:
I have waited for years to eat at Rochelle Canteen. Not just because the restaurant carries my name but because its food is so well reputed that it is next-to-impossible to get a reservation. I had made one initially online for myself—but when Edward told me that he could make himself free at lunch time to join me, I cancelled my single reservation and we changed it to a couple on the following day.
Well, Edward was right there on the steps after I’d passed by Pater Noster Square—it was on the path each day when I attended daily 8.00 am Mass at St. Paul’s Cathedral when I had lived in Holborn. There is a lovely new sculpture there now called “Welcome Wildlife” which reminded me very much of our recent travels on our African Safari. I took a picture of it. The Square was buzzing with lunch-time folk buying food from the many takeaway restaurants that have always crowded this area. I always feel deeply nostalgic when I am in these places and I realize that the reason I love returning to London so much is that it evokes in me sentiments that I remember with profound happiness.
Edward suggested we get a black cab to Shoreditch where Rochelle Canteen is located as it would be the fastest and easiest way to get there. Accordingly, we hailed a passing cab and were off. And from that point, for the next couple of hours, we did not stop chatting. It’s really funny that Edward chose this spot for us to meet as it was here, on this exact same site, that we had met 17 years ago—a meeting that changed the course of my London life forever and gifted me with the folks I consider my ‘family’ in this city.
Edward is a lawyer—a solicitor—whose office is nearby. He is senior enough now that he has the freedom to have a leisurely lunch hour by checking his phone to make certain things are in control at his office. When we did reach Playground Gardens in Shoreditch, we found it to be a most charming venue, tucked away from common sight, out of reach almost behind high walls in what was once clearly a Victorian school—it has doorways marked ‘Girls’ and ‘Boys’ in stone. Located in Arnold Circle, a really wonderful raised park with a slate-roofed round Band Stand in the center, it really made me wish I had more time to truly explore this delightful corner of London that is not just far from the madding crowd but hard to believe actually exists only a block away from the crazy bustle of the East End. What’s more, we made the astounding discovery that the reason the place is called Rochelle Canteen is because it is on Rochelle Street! Who Knew there was a Rochelle Street in London?? In fact, it is a very ancient one that dates back absolutely ages as could be guessed by the very old street sign on one corner of the red brick buildings that surround the circle that formed a kind of Place de L’Etoile! I was just beside myself and took many pictures of myself under the signs.
part of London, by the way—Shoreditch, Bethnal Green—is seeing a resurgence in popularity and gentrification as yuppies are flocking in to rent in order to remain within a decent sized commute from their offices at Bank and Mansion House. Old buildings are being refurbished and fitted inside with every mod con and the streets are buzzing with upscale coffee shops, boutiques and eateries to suit deep pockets.
We settled down at a table that was in a sort of glass-house—yes, that would be the best way to describe it. It is set in a beautiful late-summer garden still punctuated by tall hollyhocks and buzzing bees. Our table in the corner overlooked the back garden—also filled with flowering plants. The menu (which changes daily based on seasonal produce) was handed to us. The restaurant was founded by chef Margot Henderson and is run today by Head Chef Hector Henderson. Together, they have put Rochelle Canteen on the gastronomic map and it is every foodie’s dream to eat here.
So what did we eat and how was the food? Well, we started with the Devilled Crabmeat Tart—except that all the tarts were finished and they were serving the same tart filling on sourdough toast. And it was just amazing! Edward demolished it within seconds—he literally inhaled it. It was half a chunk of a large sourdough slice piled high with creamy crabmeat mixture, beautifully seasoned with lemon juice and subtly spiced with chilli to bring out the sweetness of the meat. And then, both of us went for the Roast Wagyu Beef that was fatty and served with the fat (seemingly like thick slices of bacon) floating in a flavorful jus. This was accompanied by punchy horseradish sauce and a simple salad of dressed watercress. To accompany it, we had a small bowl each of the best fries I have ever eaten. They were fat—superbly crispy on the outside and creamy within. Seriously…I do not usually wax eloquent about French fries! Of course, we did full justice to our meal. I savored every morsel as I focused on the juices and the flavor of the meat. It was perfectly done—medium rare and succulent.
We also talked nineteen to the dozen with Edward telling me all about his growing family (and sharing pictures of his adorable kids—all three of them) and then about his work and his family (I will be seeing his parents tomorrow for dinner at their place). He also invited me to come and meet the kids and his wife at their newish home in Clapham and since it is not far at all from where I am currently based in Battersea, perhaps I will try to make a short visit there.As we had lingered too long over our two first courses and were quite full, we declined to have pudding but, boy oh boy—did I enjoy that meal! It made the long wait for a table completely worthwhile. And on that happy note, Edward paid the bill, refusing to let me even pitch in. It was the most generous of treats and I was very grateful indeed for his warmth and fondness for me.
Circling around Arnold Circle on foot, we arrived back on Shoreditch High Street from where we managed to get another cab that dropped me off at St. Paul’s Tube stop and took Edward off to his office. It was one of the most memorable of my afternoons in London so far and I feel blessed that I know all these marvelous people who took me to their hearts when I had first arrived to live in this city as a complete stranger to them.
b>Off to the Royal Academy:
With my bag fairly weighing me down and with the time showing around 3.30 pm, I got off at Green Park Tube Station. I was very fortunate that although the Keifer-Van Gogh exhibition is ticketed (the rest of the museum is free to visitors), I was able to get a free pass with my Met ID card! How cool—I saved almost 20 pounds! It is always a bit of a treat to walk through the grand courtyard of the Royal Academy, once home to Lord Burlington, after whom the adjoining Burlington Arcade is named. The courtyard is dominated by the sculpture of Sir Joshua Reynolds with palette and paint brush in hand, dressed in the smart attire of the 18th century complete with tail coat and wig. Inside, I dropped by bags (my back had begun to ache quite seriously, by this point, with the load), in a locker and took the elevator to the second level for the special exhibition.
b>Visiting the Keifer-Van Gogh Exhibition:
I really did not know what to expect when I decided to see this exhibition, I love Van Gogh and know his work well, of course, but I was not familiar at all with Keifer. So my introduction to his work was simply staggering. Anselm Keifer is a German artist who was born a little after World War II ended. He was very much influenced by the work of Van Gogh and spent quite a while in Arles in the South of France where he absorbed the atmosphere and environment that had led Van Gogh to produce some of his best known last works. During his time in Arles, he spoke to the descendants of many of the local people that Van Gogh had painted and he made pen and ink sketches and drawings of them.
However, it is for his monumental, mixed-media art works that he is most renowned. The canvasses are massive, the material he uses (splotches of a whole tube of paint at a time creating a kind of Jackson Pollock effect to represent a vast field of poppies, for instance), straw and thatching thicky covered with paint to look like wheat stalks in abundant fields, and the same material swirled around to resemble the constellations in Van Gogh’s famous ‘Starry Night’ (1889, MOMA, New York). I found his work deeply original, staggering in its impact (size and substance) and in the possibilities for installation. Such large works can only be purchased by institutions as they will never fit in anyone’s home! So, overall, I was deeply gratified that I had carved the time to see this exhibition so unexpectedly.
Across the Street to Fortnum and Mason:
I also made the disappointing discovery, through Llew, that I had left the gift I had purchased in India, for my friend Marie-Lou in Chicago. Llew will bring it with him and I shall mail it to her from Connecticut…but for the moment, I needed to buy her something from London. I chose to go to Fortnum and pick up one of their beautiful musical boxes which she can use as a Treats Bin for her dogs once the human cookies inside it are consumed! So with that purchase in my basket, I wandered around the upper floor, far from the crazy tourist crowds, and ventured into one of my favorite parts of London. It offers me the opportunity to purchase little items that I have bought over the years and added to my Tea Repertoire: silver tea strainers, tea balls to dunk into one’s cup, etc. I also love to feast my eyes on the abundance of exquisite porcelain tea sets in this part of the store—its best-kept secret. Over the years, I have craved one of the Herend tea sets—until we finally purchased out own on a trip to Hungary (Budapest) where the porcelain in produced. I found this time that the kind of merchandise being sold upstairs is very different. While there are bone china mugs and tea cup and saucer sets, there were no tea cozies and the hessian bags are also different—they do not have the heft of the one I use as my Art bag when I go for my weekly Art classes. Anyway, after I had swung around this part of the store and passed by the café where the famous sundae called the Knickerbocker Glory was invented and made renowned, I also took a turn around the Christmas store (yes, Christmas has come early to F and M) and then hurried out.
A Bit of This and That:
With my purchase done, I crossed the street to my locker at the Royal Academy to retrieve my bags –what a good thing I managed to lock them away there. They allowed me to browse through Fortnum’s without being seriously weighed down. Then, I was uncertain how to proceed and decided to get into a bus going to Marble Arch. I would survey the goods at M and S there and then get to my dinner appointment, eventually. Yes, I had dinner plans with my friend Bande Hassan at Bursa Turkish Restaurant on Edgeware Road which was not too far away.
Accordingly, I took a bus going to Edgeware Road and got into conversation with a lovely lady sitting by my side who was very well informed about global goings-on. When we arrived at Marble Arch on Edgeware Road, I alighted and began to walk towards Marks and Sparks, but then I spied a TK Maxx and decided to go inside instead. I feasted my eyes on the eye-candy within but did not buy anything. And my back was seriously breaking, by this point. So I simply decided to forget about Marks and go early to the restaurant, sit down there and await the arrival of my friend. I was tired, really tired, by this point. I had also discovered while passing by on foot at Victoria, that the bus stop I needed to get back to Roz’s place had changed its spot and I could no longer find it. I needed to call her to find out where the new bus stop was so that I would not be searching for it after dark.
I arrived at the restaurant on Connaught Street at about 6.30 pm and sat myself down to use the wifi, call Roz, get directions to the new bus stop to get back home. Within ten minutes, my friend Bande arrived, we found ourselves a nice table by the window and were waited on with a menu and some water. A little later, his relative Uwais arrived and we ordered the Hot Mixed Mezze and a bowl of hummus as starters as well as the Mix Grill Platter for a main. We decided to share these. Everything was superb—beautifully grilled and skillfully spiced or marinated to render meats succulent. For dessert, we had the Kunafa with Pistachio Ice-Cream—a totally winning dessert and one of my favorites. Uwais declined dessert but Bande and I shared a kunafa and he was quite charmed to indulge in something so delicious. I have eaten kunafa all over the Middle East—Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Amman in Jordan, Doha in Qatar and Jerusalem too-- and then discovered a place right in my little suburb in Bandra called ‘Kunafa World’ which does a really fabulous version of it. So, well sated with our meal, we took a few photographs together and left.
The two gentlemen saw me to the 36 bus stop at the corner of Edgeware Road from where I made my way to Victoria. As instructed by Roz, I walked across the Victoria Palace Theater and found the bus stop for the No 44 bus which came handily along and took me back to Battersea. It was just before 10.00 pm that I returned to Roz’s place. We spent about fifteen minutes while she ate her dinner (bacon, tomatoes, beans on toast) and I told her all about my day.
And, on that happy and very tired note, I fell into bed
tomorrow, cheerio…
