Au Revoir London, Hiya Again Oxford: First Day in the City of Dreaming Spires

 Au Revoir London,  Hiya Again Oxford: First Day in the City of Dreaming Spires 

London-Oxford

Sunday, May 22, 2022

    At last the day dawned when we'd be leaving London to return to Oxford to spend a few days roaming through Oxfordshire and re-visiting a part of the Cotswolds that Llew and I had both loved following a wonderful time with Chriselle about twenty years ago. But first, we'd need to get cracking at our pad at Paddington, eat breakfast (bits and bobs of all our leftovers in the fridge), clean house and get going. With a small strolley each and the gifts we had bought for our hosts Susan and Tony, we set off at 8.30 am to begin our journey to Oxford.

Off to Oxford:

    We took the 36 bus from Praed Street to Victoria and hopped into the Oxford Tube on Buckingham Palace Road. We were on the 9.15 coach and hoped to be in Oxford by 10.30--it being a Sunday, the coach flew rapidly through Oxford and we were at the Westfield Shopping Mall at Brent Cross in less than half an hour. We expected to reach very much on schedule, but alas, with a combination of a road accident and road works, we were held up for over 40 minutes on the highway and arrived at the High Street in Oxford only at 11.00 am. We alighted at St. Aldgates and hopped into an X3 local bus for three stops to get to our hotel for two nights--Lake Street Studios that I had booked two weeks ago! And then, guess what? Whom should we meet on the bus but our friend Susan! She heard my voice talking to the driver and inquiring about our stop (3 stops away) and our tickets when she came from the back of the bus, said "Rochelle?" and next thing you know, we were hugging and kissing right there in the bus and I was introducing her to Llew whom she was meeting for the first time!

Settling Into our Oxford Studio:

Susan got off one stop before us (we'd be meeting her at her place for supper at 5.00 pm). Llew and I alighted from the bus, found Lake Street just a few meters away, walked down it to our Studios and met Jan, our hostess, who led us into our lovely room for the next two nights. It is indeed a studio with a living area, bed/sleeping area (there is an ultra-comfortable double bed), a kitchenette that is fully equipped with microwave oven, fridge and all necessary china and silverware. We also have our own little private garden outside that has David Austin pink roses tumbling down a brick wall. What a pretty entry into Oxford!

Taking the Thames Path from Grandpont to Oxford:

After stashing our stuff in our studio which is in the Grandpont part of Oxford, and on taking Jan's advice to reach into Oxford Town Center by the picturesque route, we walked out of our studio at about 12.30 pm and took the little gate to the Oxford Tow Path across the street. We found the gate leading to the Thames and followed the Tow Path towards the City Center. It was a perfectly gorgeous day--blue skies, fluffy white clouds, benign sunshine on our backs, comfortable temperature--we could not have asked for better. The river and its banks were busy with rowers, sailors, hikers, joggers, dog-walkers. Across the river, we spied Magdalen Tower and the route via the Meadows of Christ Church College that leads to the River bank. Believe me when I say that the setting was just idyllic and the perfect entry into Oxford.

Lunch at Westgate Shopping Mall:

    By the time we were done with our hour-long walk, we were in the City Center and feeling distinctly peckish.  We decided it was time to go out in search of lunch and after a quick nip into John Lewis where I finally found the OPI nail polish I was seeking, we arrived at a place called Street Food Social that offered a choice of cuisines--we opted for Benito's Mexican and ordered slow-roasted pork burritos with rice, black beans, sour cream, lettuce, tomato and a Southwestern sauce. This was served with chips, salsa and a drink (Fanta) and it made a  very substantial meal for Llew and me. 

Off to Gloucester Green Bus Station:

    Replete with our Mexican repast, we went out in search of the Gloucester Green Bus Station to find out about purchasing a Stage Coach smart card for travel in the Cotswolds. After a series of inquiries, we were informed that we ought to speak to the driver of the S3 bus tomorrow. He would sell us a smart card that we could then load with a top-up for a week's worth of unlimited travel. We could then pay the additional rider amount to get from one town or village to the next. This would eliminate the need for Llew to drive in the Cotswolds (something that he was rather reluctant to do, in the first place) and it would be far more economical than renting a car, paying for gas, and navigating our way through a tangle of country roads. Hopefully, this alternative will serve us well.  We shall see....we are flexible and have no real plan for the next three days. With trains and buses at our service, we think we might be able to swing it. I resolved to pick up a map of the Cotswolds from the Tourist Information Office on Broad Street. 

Off to the Ashmolean Museum:      

    I dropped Llew off to the entrance of the Ashmolean and put a leaflet containing the 12 highlights of the Museum that I suggested he begin seeing. I nipped off to the Tourist Information Office on Broad Street only to find that it has fallen victim to the pandemic and closed down! An institution in itself, I have used this office for at least 35 years and I simply cannot believe it is no more! The abundance of promotional brochures I have picked up from here, over the years, is staggering. 

    With no choice, I nipped into the Oxfam store next door hoping to pick up the DVD set that I had passed on at my last visit with Amy, two weeks ago--only to find that it had sold out! However, the costume jewelery I had liked was still there and I did go ahead and purchase it. Then, I hurried off to meet Llew back at the Ashmolean. Needless to say, I began taking the Highlights Tour myself and we met at the two paintings that are the most prominent ones in the museum: The Hunt (which demonstrates Paolo di Uccelo's use of the 'vanishing point' in art and Forest Fire by Piero di Cosimo. However,  what really caught my eye and grabbed it on this visit was Anthony van Dyke's portrayal of The Deposition of Christ which is not only deeply moving but also horror-evoking.

We went again through the various highlights together and I even took in the glory of the porcelain gallery--for indeed the Ashmolean has a whole entire gallery devoted exclusively to painted porcelain (my passion!). Of course, I could have spent two whole hours in this gallery, but time was of the essence. We moved on and left the museum (after using the facilities) to arrive at Tesco where we bought decaff coffee and milk for ourselves for tomorrow. 

We then took the bus from St. Aldgates back to our Lake Street Studios where we were left with only enough time to get ourselves dressed and ready for the next item on our agenda--our appointment with Susan and Tony at their place at 5.00 pm.

A Walk and Dinner with Susan and Tony at their Home:

    Susan and Tony are passionate gardeners and have maintained an allotment plot for ages. They suggested we arrive at their place at 5.00 pm so that they could walk with us to their plot to see it. Accordingly, Llew and I walked through lovely Hinksey Park that was full of people, dogs and squealing children as they used the lake, the adjoining swimming pool or simply sat on the green lawns and picnicked. As I said, on a day that cried for being outdoors, folks took full advantage of the benevolence of the weather and basked in it. 

    Five minutes later, we were at our hosts' front doors, were met and greeted and welcomed. Our gifts (from India and Harrod's) changed hands and we settled down briefly. A few minutes later, we began our walk to the allotment (just a few minutes away) where Susan opened the lock and let us it. 

    It is lovely to be in a flourishing allotment and most people look after their's with a passion. During Covid, it provided a way to live outdoors and socialize even if briefly. We were introduced to their friend Katrina and then spent the next half hour walking through a variety of plantings: herbs, flowers, veg. Susan and Tony had a beautiful corner plot that is backed by a climbing rose that is simply stunning as its flowers cascade down from way up high to the ground. We picked some radishes from their plot and decided to take them home to munch on with salt (the French way) with our drinks. Indeed, an allotment provides the biggest rewards of any that one can get directly from the earth and the concept that began with the Victory Garden of war-times in England has escalated into a daily pass time for a number of people. 

    About a half hour later, we were back at Susan and Tony's where we were handed drinks and nibbles (a red wine for Llew, a G & T for me) and pistachios and chips--out on the patio in full sunshine with views past a meadow filled with golden buttercups that melts down to the river. It was truly picturesque and we enjoyed the companionable moments with our kind and hospitable friends who take so much trouble always to entertain us at their home. Indeed, I have always felt that the true test of friendship is people who open their home to you, cook and serve you food they have prepared themselves and, regardless of the time and trouble it will entail, continue to have intimate dinner parties for a few select friends. Kim and Mark did it for us on the Isle of Wight, Elise did that for us yesterday, Susan and Tony did it for us today and Michael and Cynthia had me over at their place for lunch last week and will be hosting us for dinner next week. We are truly blessed in our friends.   

    Drinks done, we moved into the dining area for our meal. Tony, of course, is master of the kitchen and is very ably assisted by Susan. He always serves us the most incredible feasts and this evening was no exception: he presented a stunning creation by Yottam Ottolengthi (whose books I own in Connecticut)--a pie of sorts with a stuffing comprising of a cinnamon pilaf studded with raisins and pine nuts and lemon juice set in a mould lined with sauted slices of aubergine! It was wonderful! To accompany this one-dish meal was a lovely green salad with a piquant dressed (also made by Tony). Susan came into her own at dessert time when she offered us Nigella Lawson's brownies with vanilla ice-cream--delish was not the word! How grand was our meal and how dear are our friends? 

The discussion around the table was equally stimulating--we talked about contemporary friends, our coping over the pandemic, Llew and my future plans with regards to closing shop in the US and starting afresh in Bombay--a prospect we look upon as an exciting adventure with all sorts of possibilities ahead. We made plans to meet tomorrow for breakfast at their place followed by a day that the two of us will spend re-exploring the Cotswolds. Then, we will meet again for dinner at Quod, a fancy Continental restaurant on The High, where we will celebrate Llew's birthday! It promises to be a lovely day tomorrow and we are looking forward to it with gusto.

    Until tomorrow...cheerio!