Final Day in Costa Rica at Manoel Antonio National Park

Thursday, March 19, 2020

Final Day in Costa Rica at Manoel Antonio National Park

Our final day in Costa Rice was going to begin once again at the crack of dawn.  It would be a 5.30 am rising, breakfast at 6.00 and ready to begin a walking tour of the National Park with the sole purpose of sighting animals—who are usually early risers. 

Breakfast at the Congo Restaurant at the San Bada Hotel:

There was a lady making fresh omelettes at a station and Llew and I chose two of those with the works. This was accompanied by bacon (really delicious thick-cut variety), hash browns (crisp and tasty) and decaf coffee which the wait staff managed to organize for Llew and me. Filled with this tasty repast, we were ready to depart.

On a Walking Tour of Manoel Antonio NationalPark:

I expected a lot from this walk as the film last night had prepared us for a feasts of animals sightings. Also, my friend Delilah had told me that they had seen a lot of wild life on their walk and, because it was the last item on a very crowded week-long itinerary of activities, I did believe that it was meant to be the piece de resistance of our travels.

I could not have been more mistaken.  Those who elected to go surfing, relax by the pool or do their own thing, seemed to have the wiser idea. Or may be we were just unlucky and the animals fought shy of us. Who knows? As it turned out, when we began our walk at 7.00 am, the first thing we saw was a giant turkey kite seated on a high branch close to the entrance. From that point on, it was mainly butterflies that fluttered past us, the odd lizard on a creek bank (we’d already seen plenty of those) and the distant calls of toucans. We actually, did not, in the flesh, see very much at all.  Like everyone else, I kept hoping we’d see a sloth—because they are so rare and South America is the only place where one can actually see them. But nothing.Nada. Zilch.

We walked on and on, along the forest—being all the time sensitive to sounds (and there were those: chirping of birds, whirring of what sounded like bees or crickets...that sort of thing). It was quiet and it was peaceful, but it did not have the same thrill as I had felt in the magical rain forest where the atmosphere was completely different.

Eventually, we reached the beach—one of the private beaches of Manoel Antonio Park. The waves of the Pacific Ocean were mighty strong as they rushed on the shore. Some folks elected to go in for a dip right away—they we’re wearing swimsuits under their walking clothes. Others chose to merely sit on the sand and enjoy the spectacular shades of green-blue of the water. Others chose to do a more challenging hike and Llew was one of the latter. He decided to do the Cathedral Trail which climbed very high up for about 700 steps and I chose to accompany him on it.

Hiking the Cathedral Trail:

We were a group of five on the Cathedral Train: Bueno (minus Tess, who preferred to frolic in the waves), Sam and Mary Hinkley and Llew and myself. I began to count the steps just as soon as we started. It was a narrow but very well-laid out trail that was composed of wooden steps—some were gentle and some were giant ones. They were well maintained with lots of loose gravel to provide traction. I had hoped to catch sight of monkeys or sloths--but no such luck. By about the 300th step, we saw a pair of what are called agoutis-they are large rodents (about double the size of rabbits) with Iongish snouts. And that was it really. Very disappointing indeed. But I have to say that when we stopped at about four look-out points the views of the Ocean and the unspoiled white sand beaches and the tropical vegetation were quite spectacular. At one point, one can usually see whales—of course, we spotted none!  It was a very difficult, very challenging climb and it took all the physical stamina I could muster. Eventually, after we posed on a bridge, we made our swift way down and arrived back at Manoel Antonio Beach and that was where we finally had one sloth sighting. Amy told us that there was a sloth in a tree close by and she led us to it.

Spotting a Sloth:

This was way up high, however, and of a soft beige color that camouflaged it completely. We could barely see it and it was only when he started to move and rustle the leaves and branches at the top that we could see it. Still, it was another sloth sighting and I did take a picture.

The Long Walk Back to the Hotel:

Llew and I then began the walk back to our hotel using the concrete paved pathway rather than the mud one on which we had started. It took us over half an hour to get back. On the way, we saw many tourists with very sophisticated cameras and we spotted a nice sign that announced the venue—under which we posed for pictures. But that was it. We were very hot and very tired when we arrived at the entrance of the park and two steps later, found ourselves within the property of our hotel.

Cooling Off at the Hotel Pool:

We still had about an hour before it was time to gather around for an early lunch (at 11.15 am)—so it was the perfect time to cool off by the pool. We found that the Congo Restaurant was still open and Llew and I watermelon and mango juice respectively. I carried mine to the pool while Llew who was very hot, went into our room to cool off in the air-conditioning. I stripped off my shoes and socks and dangled by feet in the water (ah, so good!) in the company of a number of folks who had chosen to stay put and enjoy the hotel on the last day. After about half an hour, after we met Katherine who had gone surfing on the public  beach and was sun burned and hurt by the surf board, and Amy who told us that she had a really splendid sloth sighting (and she had video to prove it too), we returned to our room for showers.

Those showers felt really splendid as we cooled off and freshened up and were finally ready for lunch in the Congo Restaurant.

Our Final Lunch in the Congo Restaurant:

Our final lunch in the Congo Restaurant was lovely. By this point in time, it is funny how closely we had bonded as a group and how friendly everyone felt towards the other. From that first journey in the bus when we had spoken to no one, to this last lunch when we were all chattering away, it was great. We sat with Kay who is staying over at a Hindu chanting camp for another ten weeks. Most of the participants were talking about leaving and the anxiety of finding flights changed, cancelled or re-routed. Tanya and Liz from Toronto were going to stay at the San Bada Hotel for another week—so this was their last meal with us and they were determined to get a group photo done.

I had a big salad because I love how fresh and tasty the vegetables are. One finds shredded lettuce, wedges of tomato, slices of cucumber, shredded red cabbage, shredded white cabbage, shredded carrots and often times chick peas in the various dishes that allow one to mix a salad to taste. There are also many different dressings but I have been sticking to oil and balsamic vinegar. Today, there was chicken in a tomato sauce and Beef Stew with carrots and potatoes. I chose to have the beef as beef is quite wonderful in Costa Rica (and I rarely usually eat beef) and it was quite the most tasty thing I had eaten on the trip.  In fact, I went back for seconds. I had been avoiding the carbs and filling up on salads (but I still feel that I have put on weight because the desserts are irresistible). 

Posing For A Group Picture:

It was a good thing I suggested we use a bridge that spanned the beautiful pool to pose for a group picture because it did provide a splendid backdrop for our picture and allowed every single one of us to be seen. It was my last time to chat with Rick who was the world’s first baby boomer—he and I were sorry that we had not spent enough time on the trip really talking about our books and our writing. Still, we made the best of our last few minutes together. 

The picture was well organized with Tanya taking charge of the whole project and placing our guide Bernal right in the center. We found someone to click and sooner rather than later, the picture was done.

Off on our Last Long Drive:

And then it was our last hour of driving, past this region of Manoel Antonio that reminded us so much of Goa, that got us to the last leg of our travels—our return to the capital of the country, San Jose. I dozed off through much of it.

We made one last shopping stop at a large souvenir store and there I bought a couple of souvenir things for the children

Eventually, we did arrive at the intercontinental Hotel where Llew and I thought we would have the entire next day at leisure. It was a grand place, of course, as all Inter-Continental Hotels are, but when we entered the lobby, Bernal told us that the pool, gym and sauna were closed as a result of the virus and that we could only use the lobby.  I also found, to my disappointment, that unlike the Barcelo Hotel, which we had used on our arrival into the city, this was not in the downtown area—in fact, it was far away...and if we wished to explore on our own, we’d need to take a taxi for $20 to get there. 

Check in and Discovery of a Flight Change:

We checked into a beautiful room on the fifth floor, but, in about twenty minutes after we had connected to WiFi, we discovered that there had been a big change in our flight which was scheduled to leave the next day (i.e. Friday). It had been cancelled and we had been re-routed to one leaving on Saturday morning at 10.15 which would not go non-stop. We had a layover in Miami for 17 hours (yes, 17 hours!) before we arrived at JFK in New York City on Sunday at midnight (i.e. early Monday morning). Of course, we were having none of that and so we sat on the phone in our room and made a call to American Airlines and, long story, short, were lucky to find two Business Class seats for the flight leaving that very evening! Good Job we had not even unpacked!

A Surprise Cultural Dance Performance, Farewell Dinner and Departure from Costa Rica:

  It was necessary to change our car rental booking (which Llew managed very easily to do), let Bernal know about our flight change so that he could organize local transport to the airport for us, and then pack our bags and get ready to leave.

The surprise was a cultural evening of Costa Rican dance in the small auditorium where a couple (one of whom had won Dancing With the Stars in Costa Rica) regaled us with folk and classical (tango-like ballroom dancing) that was very professional indeed. It was a terrific way to finish up a wonderful tour and a great introduction to a fascinating country. 

From there, we all adjourned to the restaurant where a buffet-style dinner (very upscale and very classy) was served. It started with a really grand Cream of Mushroom soup, a selection of fresh vegetables and some specialty salads (hearts of palm with mozzarella and tomato), a fab kale salad with apples and raisins and a really superb variety of dressings: the passion fruit dressing and the honey mustard dressing were wonderful. For the main course, there was a choice between fish and beef tenderloin (which I chose for I love a creamy mushroom sauce) and for dessert, there were small squares of pecan pie and tiramisu.  We chose to sit with Carol and Rick who were our last dinner companions. So on that really luxurious and very satisfying note, our tour of Costa Rica came to a memorable end.

Of course, we then said goodbye to all our new friends with the promise that we would stay in touch.  Llew was not feeling too well (upset tummy) and went to our room to bring our baggage down. Bernal had organized a mini van for us and for the Traylor family and in about an hour, we had piled in and were making our way to the airport. 

At San Jose Airport:

All was quiet when we reached San Jose airport half an hour later. We went through Immigration calmly. Most people seem to have left the country and the airport was quiet but not empty. We were very early for our flight, so sat reading at the gate.

It was a red eye flight that left San Jose at 10.59 pm. I had dinner (stuffed beef tenderloin with mashed potatoes and peach ice-cream sprinkled with honeycomb). I tried to sleep through some of it but I have to say that this was probably the most uncomfortable might flight I have ever taken (despite the fact that we were flying Business Class)—go figure! Llew spoke to the stewardess who told him that ours was the last non-stop flight out of Costa Rica. After this, American Airlines will fly people out of Costa Rica but with multiple layovers. We really did luck out! 

We arrived in Kennedy Airport at 5.40 am and had to wait till 6.00 am for the aircraft gates to open as that is when the Customs and Immigration folks come on Duty. Llew was the first person to get off the aircraft and the first person to be cleared by Immigration through our Global Network cards. I was the second! We were amazed that there was no testing whatsoever upon landing. As we had not checked in any baggage, we just strolled out of the airport and headed straight on the Air Train to Budget to pick up our rental car. All went smoothly and we left the airport at 6.45 am and were home at 8.10 am. I slept on a part of the drive as I had almost no sleep all night. 

So with that, our time in Cost Rica came to an end. It had been a most interesting country and had revealed itself to us in multiple ways and through varied experiences. We had the good fortune to meet some interesting people and we had a good time, overall. 

Highlights of our trip?

Trekking in the Rainy Rain Forest; Spotting a sloth come down a tree and get back up again; Soaking in the Hot Springs of the Arenal Volcano; Sipping delicious coffee everywhere; Seeing a toucan in the wild and getting a fabulous photo of it; Spotting scarlet, turquoise and emerald macaws together in the same tree; crocodile spotting on the River Tarcoles; communicating with howler monkeys on the River Frio; Enjoying spectacular beach sunsets at Guanacaste; Savoring superb ceviche. 

It was certainly a trip to remember—made more memorable by the fact that we enjoyed all these delights while the rest of the world went to hell in a hand basket following he outbreak of the coronavirus. We shall not forget it easily.

Until next time, Adios!

       

Crocodile Spotting and Bird Watching on the Tarcoles River and Reaching Manoel Antonio National Park in Puntarenas

Wednesday, March 18, 2020

Crocodile Spotting and Bird Watching on the Tarcoles River and Reaching Manoel Antonio National Park in Puntarenas

Ola from Costa Rica!

We were sorry to leave the JW Marriott Hotel as it is a truly gorgeous property and with all tourists leaving and rushing off home in fear of the coronavirus, we had the place to ourselves. We woke up, packed our bags and left them outside our rooms for pick up as we went down to Mansita Restaurant for our last meal in this luxurious place. Today, it was on a far less sumptuous scale than it was yesterday. I had half a waffle with whipped cream, chocolate sauce and mixed nuts, and a small portion of an omelette that Rick shared with me as it was too much for him with one sausage (as the bacon was swiped by the time I got to it). I had decaf coffee and did not feel too stuffed.

Not too long after, we got into our bus for our long drive south to the Tarcoles River in the Puntarenas region where the topography is undulating and the vegetation is more tropical. I sat right in front with Kaye but honestly, there wasn’t much of interest to see and when the bus stopped at a wayside eatery for a restroom break, we got ice-cream and I switched seats and went back to Llew. We used the stop, however, to borrow Bernal’s phone and make a call to American Airlines on the local Costa Rica number that they placed on their website and, as luck would have it, we did manage to change our booking and bring our flight one day forward. This makes perfect sense because although Caravan was willing to pay for us for one extra day at the Inter-Continental Hotel, the idea of giving ourselves the extra day was to see the capital city of San Jose. But with everything having shut down, we didn’t really have access to the museums or the National Theatre which we had wanted to tour. Hence, we decided to get home one day earlier. So, with that done, all Llew had to manage was our rental car booking from JFK to Southport, Connecticut, through Budget. He decided to do that as soon as we reached our next hotel.

Spotting Scarlet Macaws Near the Tarcoles River:

We drove on and just before we arrived on the banks of the Tarcoles River, Bernal spotted a whole flock of multi-colored macaws in the trees. They were feasting on the ripe fruit and were flitting about from one branch to the next. I did try to get a few pictures but as they were shielded by the foliage and were moving about so much, it was hard to get really good ones. Anyway, that was another of the stars of Costa Rica’s Wildlife World covered and we were quite thrilled about the sighting.

Lunch at a Small Eatery:

It was time to stop for lunch at a small eatery where tables were laid out for us and servers were ready to pile our plates. It was also a stop for restrooms. Lunch was very good actually—it was romaine lettuce shredded with fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, boiled mixed vegetables (Costa Ricans do not do much with vegetables and basically just boil them), roasted small potato wedges, a tortilla and a serving of either grilled chicken or steak. Having asked for medium rare at the other places and finding it almost raw, I asked for well-done this time and it was perfect—so tasty as it was served with a piquant chimichuri sauce. For dessert, they served small bits of coconut toffee but as it was made with molasses, I did not find it tasty at all.

Tarcoles River Cruise to Spot Crocodiles and Bird Watch:

People come to the Tarcoles River to spot crocodiles which are very different (in size, form and shape) from the caimans that we saw on the River Frio. We boarded a vessel and had a steerer called Juan Carlos but no guide as Bernal acted as our guide this time. The river was very calm—in fact, the entire region was quiet and undisturbed. It was also really hot which explains why the wild life would prefer to wallow in the water. The river banks were very high on both sides and we saw a lot of cows—what Bernal called Brahmin Bulls (and they looked exactly like the cows in India). 

We started off by seeing a number of birds including a large osprey, plus storks and other smaller birds. There were many iguanas and lizards on the river banks and we saw them slithering around all over. We caught sight of a big crocodile with its mouth open on the bank and we were able to get close and take some good pictures.  Finally, Bernal took us to a part of the river that was way beyond the usual route and we spotted a giant crocodile who has been nicknamed Mike Tyson! He really was very big indeed and we were able to get within about six feet of him! His head stuck out of the water and the rest of his body was in the water but since it was so clear, we could actually see several feet of his body beneath. We spent quite a long while at this spot to allow people to take all the pictures they wanted. When we were all done, we made our way back to the pier—all the time we spotted birds on the river bank.

A Long Drive to Puntarenas:

This was probably one of the longest drives we did—we had another long drive going southwards towards the region called Puntarenas which is a very popular tourist area. For a while, we were inland, but then we began a drive along the coast and we could see the Pacific Ocean quite clearly past beaches known as Jaco (pronounced Haco) until we arrived in the area of the famed Manoel Antonio National Park. From this point on, the place reminded me so much of Goa (it was very hot and very humid, to begin with)-the little bars and shops had the look of tropical paradises in many different parts of the world. 

Settling Down in Hotel San Bada:

The beauty of the Hotel San Bada is that it is right outside Manoel Antonio Park which is what tourists come to see when they get to this part of the country. We had the afternoon to ourselves and Bernal gave us the happy surprise that from 4.00 till 6.00 pm the hotel offered Happy Hours with drinks on the house. We merely picked up our room keys, waited for our bags to be delivered and then made our way to the 6th floor where we found a bunch of our fellow-travelers had already begun on their first drinks. My friend Delilah had WhatsApp Ed me and told me that the pina colada she had there was the best she had ever drunk—and so, of course, Llew and I ordered those. They were really good, I have to say, and as we sat on the roof garden realizing that the sun was soon going to set, it was a great place to truly unwind with new friends.

For my second cocktail, I got a mai tai (which was the first time I was having it after years (we used to have them regularly in Hawai’i). Llew had the mango daiquiri. This too was very refreshing and when we saw that the sun was going to set really quickly, we made our way to the Beach using the short cut tunnel entrance that led directly from the hotel.

Watching the Sunset on the Beach:

As at Guanacaste, the sunset was spectacular. The sky was a lovely orange color and with the clouds having disappeared completely, we had the most perfect sinking of a golden orb into the water. Nightfall came swiftly from that point although I was lucky to get some good pictures. We found the Hinkleys (Sam and Mary) and the Garrets (Jim and Mary) also making their way back to the hotel having just watched the sun go down too. We had a very nice chat with them on the way back where we also saw a white-tailed deer (the kind we find in our back yards).

Back in our rooms, we had showers, got changed and went off for a film that was screened at 6.15 pm in the Conference Room.

Watching a Film on Manoel Antonio National Park:

The Film was a really good introduction to the  history of the region and the manner in which the place became a national park. It told us about the animals and birds that are native to this region and I got really excited as this is a place supposed to be stacked with a variety of creatures. Bernal answered many of our questions. We would need to eat breakfast by 6.00 am and leave for the nature walk by 7.00 pm. For the moment, we were thinking of dinner—and that was where we were headed next.

Dinner in the Congo Restaurant:

The restaurant had our buffet dinner all laid out for us when we entered. Llew and I joined the Gerrets and the Hinkleys at a table for six. As usual, there were salads to start with and then the main course which was chicken in pomodoro sauce (I chose not to have it) and mahi-mahi served with a thick sauce that was very good. We also enjoyed our conversation with our table mates, but we were also ready, at the end of the meal, to go to bed.

It had been another interesting day in Costa Rica and we were sorry that the next day would be our last one.

Hasta Manana!