Trivandrum-Kanya Kumari: A Day Spent with a Visit to Kovalam Beach and at the Southernmost Point of the Indian Sub-Continent:

Saturday, July 25, 2026

Trivandrum-Kanya Kumari

A Day Spent with a Visit to Kovalam Beach and at the Southernmost Point of the Indian Sub-Continent:

After the adventurous bus journey we had yesterday, we decided to treat ourselves to the luxury of a privately hired car and driver for the day to take us further down the Kerala Coast and into the state of Tamil Nadu. We had both slept beautifully in our most comfortable bed and after a hot shower, we dressed and were ready to enjoy breakfast in our hotel (included with the price of our room).

Breakfast was of two types: Indian (for which I opted—it included idlis with curry, iddiappam with a chick pea stew, medu vadas with coconut chutney plus fresh fruit—little yellow elchi bananas, water melon and a choice of tea or coffee). The Western breakfast consisted of eggs any style with toast, butter and jam, fresh fruit, tea and coffee. Llew opted for the Western and enjoyed his omlette with buttered toast. Fueled with our food, we requested the helpful Receptionist Honey to find us a private cab driver to fulfil our day’s travel needs. It did not take him long to connect us with a lovely driver named Rajesh who stayed with us for the whole day. He spoke a smattering of English but was very comfortable in Hindi (unlike most people in the South) which made communication with him both very simple and easy.

And so, by 10.20 am, we were in our taxi, heading off for Kanya Kumari. It is a journey that ordinarily takes about two hours, but for some reason, it took us much longer. This was probably due to the fact that we stopped briefly at Kovalam Beach en route.

Stopping at Kovalam Beach:

Kovalam is one of Kerala’s best-known beaches. I’m not really sure why as we did not find anything particularly distinctive about it. It took us about an hour to get there from Trivandrum and once there, it kind of seemed pointless. The tide was in and the ocean was a beautiful dove blue-grey. The sand was wet even at the shore which made it possible to walk down the stairs leading to it an easy business but not a lengthy one. We stayed for a few minutes, took pictures and left. The Leela Group of Hotels has a lovely five-star hotel at one end which is quite picturesque. I found a few souvenir shops and went in search of our souvenir magnets but there were none of Kovalam Beach—only of Kerala. I was able to pick up a few shells at a fraction of the cost I would have paid anywhere in the West and those became my souvenirs for this trip.

Heading South to Kanya Kumari:

And then, more than two hours after getting back into our car and heading further down south, we arrived at Kanya Kumari (formerly known as Cape Comorin). It is the southern tip of the Indian sub-continent and it is the confluence point of three major oceans: the Indian Ocean (in the south), the Arabian Sea (to the West) and the Bay of Bengal (to the East). Rumor used to have it that there are three shades of sand to be found on these beaches, but that is incorrect. The sands of the three beaches merge together to create a single shade. However, the lighting at different times of the day can create an optical illusion that leads the viewer to believe that there are three distinct shades of blue water that come together at this point. And indeed, that was something we easily discerned. You have beautiful shades of aquamarine, cobalt and turquoise blue meeting (the sort of thing we had seen in Hawai’i) in the gigantic waves that hit the shore.

We stopped initially at the confluence of the three oceans—the point known as Triveni Sangam. More about it later. Our first destination was the area’s main attraction, the Rock Temple dedicated to Swami Vivekananda, an Indian sage and philosopher. After Rajesh parked our car, he dropped us off at the roundabout and pointed us in the direction that would lead to the stop from where we could buy tickets for the ferry that would take us across the water to the Temple, which lies just a tiny bit offshore. What also catches the eye is a gigantic statue of a deity (who turned out to be the Hindu sage Thiruvalluram), on an adjacent rock. To get from the Vivekananda Temple to the Hindu Sage’s Temple, you walk across a glass bottomed footbridge which is quite a nice experience in itself as you can see the foaming waters of the sea crashing upon the rocks below. Pretty cool!

Visiting the Vivekananda Temple:

The ride in the ferry lasts about twenty minutes, you are given life jackets (a very wise move) and deposited on the other side. It is quite orderly as the crowds make control necessary through channels that maintain order. We were very fortunate not to find a crowd in the line when boarding. In fact, we were only about the first twenty passengers that boarded. Once on the other side, we gave up our life jackets and were about to climb the rock when we were directed by some of the volunteers to a small room where we watched a short film about the temple, its origin and its construction. This was highly informative, particularly for us who do not know too much about Vivekananda, his life or work.

You take your shoes off in this entire complex and walk with socks or barefooted.The temple complex consists of three parts: the rust-colored stone temple housing a large gleaming brass statue of the philosopher. Once we saw this interior, we walked to the opposite side, where there is a replica of a stone footprint said to have been created by the goddess Kanya Kumari (after whom the site is named) in one of the Hindu epics. Vivekananda is said to have come to this site to stand on this same footprint. Hence, the footprint is well defined and well cordoned off inside a glass enclosure—you can see it but cannot photograph or touch it. Hence, the temple in Vivekananda’s honor was built right opposite. The third structure is the one to the sage Thiruvalluram and this required walking across the glass footbridge. Once inside, you climb up a few flights of stairs to arrive at a viewing gallery which brings you to the feet of the sage. We were very much reminded of our climb up the mountain called Corcovado to see the Statue of Christos Redemptor (Christ The Redeemer) in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, which we had done together, a few years ago. Of course, we did take pictures at this spot too and also enjoyed wonderful views of the seashore at Kanya Kumari. Interestingly, there is a Muslim mosque and a Christian church on these shores—which leads me to believe that this is considered a somewhat sacred spot in all religions.

After we had surveyed all these properties, we took a few pictures and returned to the orderly lines that would lead us back to the ferry that would take us back to the shore. It was here that we found our magnet of Kanya Kumari in one of the shops as well as bags of more shells as I became really delighted to find them at such a cheap price. It was only their weight and fragility that prevented me from buying more.

Visiting the Gandhi Mandapam:

I have to say that it was quite hot and being in the outdoors at mid-day was not entirely comfortable. As we’d had a heavy breakfast, we were not too hungry, but it was important to find shade. We made our way next to the Gandhi Mandapam, a very interesting modern structure.

This white building was specially constructed on the spot where Gandhi’s ashes were kept exposed after his death so that people could pay their respects. A few days later, some of them were scattered in the Triveni Sangam (the three oceans that envelope the peninsula of India would forever hold the ashes of the man who had brought the region into global prominence by giving up his life for it). There is a very reasonably-priced ticket to get into all these venues and there is also footwear to be left behind for safekeeping, as a mark of respect.

Inside, you will find a large, wide hall with a small structure at the far end. In this receptable, Gandhi’s ashes had once lain. All around the hall, on the walls, are a pictorial history of Gandhi’s life. I found it quite fascinating indeed as I used to teach Gandhi’s life and work in my South Asian Studies courses at NYU and seeing all these photographs on the wall took me on a sort of deja-vu trip through the various phases of his life on which I used to lecture. We took about twenty minutes in this space, collected our footwear and returned to the roundabout. As we were carrying our shells with us, we called Rajesh to pick us up and once he arrived, we gratefully got into our AC car and asked him to take us to an AC restaurant so that we could get a bite to eat. He did manage to find us a place in a hotel but the menu was most unappetizing and all we had was a cooling lassi each.

Scaling the Lighthouse for Bird’s Eye Views of Kanya Kumari:

Having cooled off a bit, we proceeded to the next item on our agenda: climbing up to the light house for 360 degree views of Kanya Kumari. Fortunately, there is a lift to get to the top. My brother Russel, reminded me, when I spoke to him on the phone from Kerala, that we had been up to the top about 40 years ago! Truly, he has a phenomenal memory! That said, I too had a feeling that I had been to the place before as soon as I entered the compound.

The lighthouse is not very tall (maybe about six storeys in height). It is a candy-striped red and white building which closes at 6.00 pm. When we arrived there, it was about 5.30pm—which left us half an hour to stay at the top and take pictures. Yes, we did get the 360 degree views of the town but, more importantly, we had a chance to see the tapering West coast of India in a clear line as it petered out into the sea. We did take a few photographs as the ebbing sun rays gilded the landscape quite magically. But then, it was time to descend back again to the arms of Mother Earth and by 6.00pm, we were summoning Rajesh to pick us up again. We had one more item to be covered and we headed towards the spot.

Viewing the Sunset from Sunset Beach:

Two of the biggest attractions of Kanya Kumari are watching the sunrise over the East coast of India and viewing the sunset over the West Coast. When we had visited, forty years ago, we had stayed over the previous night and woken up at 5.00 am (literally the crack of dawn) to view the sunrise. It is a happy family memory that I deeply cherish. This time round, we would be able to see the sunset—so stay we did until we were able to tick that item off our To-Do List.

Sunset was supposed to be at 6.41 pm. This left us about half an hour to find a parking spot and then wait to see the sunset. Well, we weren’t the only ones with such a plan. Half of Kanya Kumari was out on the beach attempting to find a good spot from which to watch the sun sink over the Western horizon. At Rajesh’s suggestion, we got to a spot where we could seat ourselves comfortably and still see the molten gold orb disappear into the sea. Rajesh also took a few pictures of us on the sand as the gilding rays of the sun brought a romantic filter to the scene. Hundreds of people gathered at the same spot to take selfies or to pose in groups as the sun began into downward descent. And then, just give minutes later, it was gone and another day came to an end on the Indian sub-continent.

Long Drive Back to Trivandrum with Dinner En Route:

And then, it was time for us to pile back into our car and get to our hotel in Trivandrum. Darkness fell swiftly over the land as soon as the sun set. We were tired and happy to have a cool, comfortable environment in which to unwind before reaching home. We requested Rajesh to stop at a fast food place such as McDonald’s or Burger King so that we could pick up a take home meal. But Rajesh had other ideas! He suggested a place called Taste of Kerala for what he said would be “excellent fish”. As Llew does not eat fish, he almost nixed the plan. But I told Rajesh that I eat fish and would like to try the famous Karimeen Polichattu (Pearl Fish Steamed in a Banana Leaf). Rajesh said that I was sure to get it at that spot. Hence, the spot became a no-brainer.

True to his prophecy, we really did enjoy an excellent seafood meal at Taste of Kerala. There was a live seafood counter from which we could choose our own favorite fish—fortunately for Llew, there was shell fish too and he chose a neat batch of gigantic shrimp. I chose the pearl fish and had them make it the way I wanted. We ordered fresh lime sodas to wash down our meal and, seated at dimly lit tables in a lovely outdoorsy atmosphere, we enjoyed our dinner. Our driver Rajesh was taken care of by the proprietors, and it seems that he is accustomed to bringing his passengers to this place. His idea was a sterling one and we were very pleased we took his counsel.

Dinner done, we had about a half hour’s run to our hotel. Rajesh dropped us at our gate and within minutes, Honey was present, to open the main door, hand over our keys and bid us goodnight as we climbed the one floor to our room and called it a night.

It had been a full and very productive day and we were amazed at how much ground we had covered, thanks to the services of our own private vehicle and driver.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

Day Three--Captivating Kerala. Journey From Munnar to Thekkady

Sunday, January 11, 2026:

Journey From Munnar to Thekkady

We had a truly incredible day. Although most of it was spent on the road as we journeyed from Munnar to Thekkady (our next port of call), the drive was so adventuresome that it will always remain in our memory.

We left our Rheinburg House B and B in Munnar after thanking Kannan profusely for his service to us and told Shiju to take us first to a restaurant to have some breakfast as we were fully aware that there are not many outstanding eateries on the road. Accordingly, he took us to a place called Shree Krishna which offered ample parking space (which made life easier for Shiju). Llew and I chose to share the Chole Puri (Curried Chickpeas with large fried puris) and a Mixed Uttapam—which is a thick dosa flavored with a variety of vegetables such as onion, tomatoes, etc. We finished off with filter coffee (and although it was not decaf, it did the trick).

A Most Unforgettable Drive:

And so, with our tummies well-filled, we began our drive to Thekkady. I should point out that the distance was just 90 kms (55 miles) but was estimated to take no less than 4 hours. And we soon realized why. As we left Munnar Town, we drove higher and higher up the mountains past the most immaculate tea estates, each of which was scenic in the extreme because light mist was hanging over them. We found that loads of tourist cars and buses had stopped to take photographs against the backdrop of the dreamy mountains.

But as the day marched on, we found ourselves entering an area of heavy fog as mist gave way to near-invisibility. To make matters worse, the entire journey involves mountainous terrain. You go around and around sloping bends with sheer drops on the right hand side. Our driver was pushing ahead, just a tiny inch at a time, but was hampered in his concentrated endeavors by idiotic other drivers behind him who honked insistently or tore ahead of us at what seemed like breakneck speed. Llew and I have to admit that we were truly terrified. Eventually, after putting up with really anxiety-causing conditions for over half an hour and as the lack of visibility intensified, we requested Shiju to pull over in a safe lay-by and to take some rest while waiting for the fog to clear. I mean, we’re talking a real pea-souper of a day with no sunshine at all but just the cold fingers of mist wrapping themselves around us. What made the drive even more exciting was that we passed by packs of cheeky monkeys sitting by the wayside walls whose fur was wet with fog and whose faces had turned cherry-red against the cold.

After waiting for about half an hour and after the fog began to show just the faintest signs of dissipating, Shiju told us that he felt ready to continue. I had my doubts but I trusted his driving instincts and, before we knew it, we were on our way again, up and down the mountains. And just when one range of mountains ended, another began. It was amazing.

By mid-day, we had reached the valley and the most scary part of the trip had ended. On this part of the drive, we found bright sunshine to light our way and it was much easier to read road side signs and shop names. It was at this point that I discovered that we were no longer in Kerala. We actually stopped at a gas station to fuel up when I saw a large hoarding of Prime Minister Modi addressing the people of the state of Tamil Nadu about one of his welfare schemes. At the same gas station, we decided to stop for a much-needed cuppa and a snack of chocolate biscuits. It was while there that I entered into conversation with a young dad of two little girls who informed me that we had indeed left the state of Kerala behind us and had entered Tamil Nadu. He told me that we would stay in TN for just a little longer before returning to Kerala again. It was super interesting to know that we had crossed state lines and would do so again just a little ahead when we would re-enter Kerala. However, there were no signs on the National Highway saying, “Welcome to Tamil Nadu” or anything like that. It was just the sound of the language and the different script on the highway hoardings that told me we were in Tamil Nadu. So, as you can see, in little ways like these, it was a very interesting and eventful drive.

Eventually, we did make our way to Thekkady, more an area than a town. The biggest settlement is called Kumily and it was there that our next B and B was located. It was called Dale Dean Cottages B and B (also found through booking.com) and after we found the owner who showed us our en suite room (all of which was very much in order with a well-made bed and a spotless bathroom), we asked for suggestions for a nice place to eat a very late lunch.

Lunch at Periyar Tiger Restaurant:

The owner of the B and B, Dean, instructed our driver Shiju on how to find the place he recommended and about fifteen minutes later, we were sitting down to a very nice lunch. We were quite ravenous, having subsisted on cookies and snacks after our breakfast and were ready to attack some typically Keralite food. After surveying the menu, we opted for Keralite Chicken Curry (which was no great shakes) and a delicacy called Karimeen Polichattu (which is Fried Spotted Pearl Fish roasted in banana leaves). Since Llew does not eat fish, I had the large fish, served whole, after being stuffed with a spice mixture that gave it flavor and texture, all to myself. We also ordered Garlic Naan to go with our meal and lassis and indeed, it was one of the best lunches we ate in Kerala. Everything was bursting with flavor as the spices are so fresh and all dishes are made right on the spot.

By the time, dinner was done, we had about half an hour to wander around Thekkady and browse in the shops. The main market drag is highly touristic with many shops selling the same tourist merch that you find at every Indian beach resort or wild life reserve: loose, linen clothing (I bought a pair of loose linen, striped pants for Rs. 250), semi-precious jewelry, silver items, scarves, bags, embroidered clothing, Indian handicrafts and knick-knacks, etc. It was nice to have this half hour of wandering before our next visit.

Off to See A Performance of Keralite Martial Arts (Kalari):

One of the big attractions of a visit to Kerala is a chance to watch Kalari in action. Kalari is typically Keralite Martial Arts. I had seen such a performance in Munnar when I had visited with my friend, Michelle, while on the Fulbright Program, a few years ago. I was keen for Llew to experience it too—so I suggested we go to the Kalari Center and buy tickets. They were Rs. 300 per head and were highly popular. In addition to Kalari, the Center also runs performances of Kathakali, the typical classical dance form of Kerala. However, while the Kalari performance lasts one hours, so does the Kathakali and having spend the whole day sitting in a car, we did not fancy spending more than an hour there. Hence, we opted for the Kalari and thought we’d postpone the Kathakali for another venue.

To watch Kalari, you enter a large indoor stadium which has a deep pit built inside it. Spectators sit around the bleachers or stands and look into the pit to watch the performance. About six young men wow the audience with their prowess at fencing with swords, sharp harpoons, etc. There is also a segment devoted to long jumping over the backs of at least 7 people, many of whom are spectators invited to participate. The highlight is the performance of pyrotechnics where the athletes jump through fiery rings or hoops which become smaller and smaller as their skills are showcased. It was indeed a very good and very unusual display of skills and talents and we were quite happy to have witnessed the show

soon as it was over, we headed off for our car—Shiju was waiting for us and we drove straight back to our B&B where we sat down and had a drink on our own private balcony before we called it a night.

It had been a day devoted almost entirely to travel—but it was so full of unusual experiences that it made it all so worthwhile. Tomorrow, we shall actually explore the Wild Life Reserve that we came to Thekkady to see.

Until tomorrow, see ya.