Sunday, January 11, 2026:
Journey From Munnar to Thekkady
We had a truly incredible day. Although most of it was spent on the road as we journeyed from Munnar to Thekkady (our next port of call), the drive was so adventuresome that it will always remain in our memory.
We left our Rheinburg House B and B in Munnar after thanking Kannan profusely for his service to us and told Shiju to take us first to a restaurant to have some breakfast as we were fully aware that there are not many outstanding eateries on the road. Accordingly, he took us to a place called Shree Krishna which offered ample parking space (which made life easier for Shiju). Llew and I chose to share the Chole Puri (Curried Chickpeas with large fried puris) and a Mixed Uttapam—which is a thick dosa flavored with a variety of vegetables such as onion, tomatoes, etc. We finished off with filter coffee (and although it was not decaf, it did the trick).
A Most Unforgettable Drive:
And so, with our tummies well-filled, we began our drive to Thekkady. I should point out that the distance was just 90 kms (55 miles) but was estimated to take no less than 4 hours. And we soon realized why. As we left Munnar Town, we drove higher and higher up the mountains past the most immaculate tea estates, each of which was scenic in the extreme because light mist was hanging over them. We found that loads of tourist cars and buses had stopped to take photographs against the backdrop of the dreamy mountains.
But as the day marched on, we found ourselves entering an area of heavy fog as mist gave way to near-invisibility. To make matters worse, the entire journey involves mountainous terrain. You go around and around sloping bends with sheer drops on the right hand side. Our driver was pushing ahead, just a tiny inch at a time, but was hampered in his concentrated endeavors by idiotic other drivers behind him who honked insistently or tore ahead of us at what seemed like breakneck speed. Llew and I have to admit that we were truly terrified. Eventually, after putting up with really anxiety-causing conditions for over half an hour and as the lack of visibility intensified, we requested Shiju to pull over in a safe lay-by and to take some rest while waiting for the fog to clear. I mean, we’re talking a real pea-souper of a day with no sunshine at all but just the cold fingers of mist wrapping themselves around us. What made the drive even more exciting was that we passed by packs of cheeky monkeys sitting by the wayside walls whose fur was wet with fog and whose faces had turned cherry-red against the cold.
After waiting for about half an hour and after the fog began to show just the faintest signs of dissipating, Shiju told us that he felt ready to continue. I had my doubts but I trusted his driving instincts and, before we knew it, we were on our way again, up and down the mountains. And just when one range of mountains ended, another began. It was amazing.
By mid-day, we had reached the valley and the most scary part of the trip had ended. On this part of the drive, we found bright sunshine to light our way and it was much easier to read road side signs and shop names. It was at this point that I discovered that we were no longer in Kerala. We actually stopped at a gas station to fuel up when I saw a large hoarding of Prime Minister Modi addressing the people of the state of Tamil Nadu about one of his welfare schemes. At the same gas station, we decided to stop for a much-needed cuppa and a snack of chocolate biscuits. It was while there that I entered into conversation with a young dad of two little girls who informed me that we had indeed left the state of Kerala behind us and had entered Tamil Nadu. He told me that we would stay in TN for just a little longer before returning to Kerala again. It was super interesting to know that we had crossed state lines and would do so again just a little ahead when we would re-enter Kerala. However, there were no signs on the National Highway saying, “Welcome to Tamil Nadu” or anything like that. It was just the sound of the language and the different script on the highway hoardings that told me we were in Tamil Nadu. So, as you can see, in little ways like these, it was a very interesting and eventful drive.
Eventually, we did make our way to Thekkady, more an area than a town. The biggest settlement is called Kumily and it was there that our next B and B was located. It was called Dale Dean Cottages B and B (also found through booking.com) and after we found the owner who showed us our en suite room (all of which was very much in order with a well-made bed and a spotless bathroom), we asked for suggestions for a nice place to eat a very late lunch.
Lunch at Periyar Tiger Restaurant:
The owner of the B and B, Dean, instructed our driver Shiju on how to find the place he recommended and about fifteen minutes later, we were sitting down to a very nice lunch. We were quite ravenous, having subsisted on cookies and snacks after our breakfast and were ready to attack some typically Keralite food. After surveying the menu, we opted for Keralite Chicken Curry (which was no great shakes) and a delicacy called Karimeen Polichattu (which is Fried Spotted Pearl Fish roasted in banana leaves). Since Llew does not eat fish, I had the large fish, served whole, after being stuffed with a spice mixture that gave it flavor and texture, all to myself. We also ordered Garlic Naan to go with our meal and lassis and indeed, it was one of the best lunches we ate in Kerala. Everything was bursting with flavor as the spices are so fresh and all dishes are made right on the spot.
By the time, dinner was done, we had about half an hour to wander around Thekkady and browse in the shops. The main market drag is highly touristic with many shops selling the same tourist merch that you find at every Indian beach resort or wild life reserve: loose, linen clothing (I bought a pair of loose linen, striped pants for Rs. 250), semi-precious jewelry, silver items, scarves, bags, embroidered clothing, Indian handicrafts and knick-knacks, etc. It was nice to have this half hour of wandering before our next visit.
Off to See A Performance of Keralite Martial Arts (Kalari):
One of the big attractions of a visit to Kerala is a chance to watch Kalari in action. Kalari is typically Keralite Martial Arts. I had seen such a performance in Munnar when I had visited with my friend, Michelle, while on the Fulbright Program, a few years ago. I was keen for Llew to experience it too—so I suggested we go to the Kalari Center and buy tickets. They were Rs. 300 per head and were highly popular. In addition to Kalari, the Center also runs performances of Kathakali, the typical classical dance form of Kerala. However, while the Kalari performance lasts one hours, so does the Kathakali and having spend the whole day sitting in a car, we did not fancy spending more than an hour there. Hence, we opted for the Kalari and thought we’d postpone the Kathakali for another venue.
To watch Kalari, you enter a large indoor stadium which has a deep pit built inside it. Spectators sit around the bleachers or stands and look into the pit to watch the performance. About six young men wow the audience with their prowess at fencing with swords, sharp harpoons, etc. There is also a segment devoted to long jumping over the backs of at least 7 people, many of whom are spectators invited to participate. The highlight is the performance of pyrotechnics where the athletes jump through fiery rings or hoops which become smaller and smaller as their skills are showcased. It was indeed a very good and very unusual display of skills and talents and we were quite happy to have witnessed the show
soon as it was over, we headed off for our car—Shiju was waiting for us and we drove straight back to our B&B where we sat down and had a drink on our own private balcony before we called it a night.
It had been a day devoted almost entirely to travel—but it was so full of unusual experiences that it made it all so worthwhile. Tomorrow, we shall actually explore the Wild Life Reserve that we came to Thekkady to see.
Until tomorrow, see ya.
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