Tuesday, July 21, 2009
London
The morning passed by in a flash as we finished up all the last-minute errands I needed to run. We began at my former apartment building at High Holborn where I made a trip especially to bid goodbye to Arben my concierge and Martha my janitor for whom I also took along small Thank-you gifts. After taking a few pictures with them, we were off, promising to return to see them whenever our paths next crossed in London.
We then walked to NYU in Bloomsbury where I had loads of material to print out and goodbyes to say to all the administrative staff at our Bedford Square campus who were so helpful to me throughout the past year. I was disappointed that a dental appointment he had that morning made it impossible for me to meet David Ruben who as Director of our London Program had steered us towards tremendous success as a faculty and was especially warm and welcoming towards Karen and myself during our year in London. With many last-minute pictures taken and hugs and kisses exchanged, Llew and I hurried out to complete our errands.
It had been my intention to buy an umbrella before leaving London from James Smith Umbrella and Stick Shop (that’s walking sticks, by the way) on New Oxford Street—a shop that dates from the mid 1800s and is probably the oldest in the area. It was packed to capacity with tourists who probably all had the same idea. However, on perusing the wares, I received sticker shock and decided that I would keep this purchase for a next visit to London.
Llew’s First Visit to Sir John Soanes’ Museum:
Our next stop was Sainsbury at High Holborn, but before we went through the items on our list, I suggested that we stop off at the Sir John Soanes Museum as I really did want Llew to have a look at this place. There was a short line at the entrance and since the usher informed me that wait time was half an hour, I left Llew in the queue and hurried off to the opposite side of Lincoln’s Inn Field to take a picture of The Old Curiosity Shop as the last time I had passed it on one of my walks, I did not have my camera with me. This store is, of course, famous from Charles Dickens’ novel of the same title, but rumor has it that this store did not exist as a store in Dickens’ time (though the building did). Be that as it may, it made for a picturesque stop and having accomplished that goal, I returned to meet Llew in the line.
The interior of the museum is stuffed with the many architectural fragments, paintings, prints, drawings and objects d’art that were acquired by the eccentric Sir John Soanes (architect, among other buildings of the Bank of England and the Dulwich Picture Gallery). The house has been left exactly as it might have been in his day and is remarkable for the entire series of works that makes up William Hogarth’s 'The Rake’s Progress' as well as the intriguing and very unique Picture Closet he designed which opened in alternating leaves to enable him to showcase his collection of architectural drawings by his collaborator Ghandy.
Needless to say, Llew was quite taken by the depth and variety of the pieces collected—these comprise finds from such Classical civilizations as Greece, Rome and Turkey as well as ones from closer to home such as the remains of the many demolitions that took place in Victorian times of London’s older buildings. It is easy to see how much of a passion architecture was to this unusual human being who has left us such a stirring legacy of his day and age—and of those that went before him.
Off to Sainsburys for the Last Time:
As I went through our pantry list at Sainsburys at High Holborn, my mind went back to my first week in London when I had been there with my strolley and bought at least fifty pounds worth of bottles and jars containing every sort of condiment that I would require for my tiny kitchen. One year later, I was returning there with Llew to pick up party supplies for the evening by way of paper goods and wine as I had already placed an order for the party to be catered by a Pakistani woman named Farah.
Luckily, Sainsbury agreed to take back the bottles of wine that we would not consume—this left us free to buy extra rather than run out during the party. With this big purchase behind us, we walked home to Farringdon, ate a hasty lunch, took a short nap and decided to get cracking on the set up for our party. Our guests were expected by 7. 30 and while there wasn’t a whole lot to do, there was still our packing to be done and a load of other errands to be accomplished. My mind was also rather preoccupied by the lecture I would be giving at Oxford the next day and as last-minute thoughts went through my mind, I tried to stay focused on the upcoming evening.
A Farewell Party for Fond Friends:
Last year at this time, when I was leaving the States, Llew and Chriselle had thrown a Farewell Party for me—and exactly one year later, Llew and I were throwing a Farewell party for our newest London friends. Paul and Loulou had arrived during the afternoon and rushed off to the National Theater to have dinner and see Phedre with friends. They were expected back at the flat by 10. 30 pm which gave us a lot of time to get the party moving.
Unfortunately, as often happens despite the best-laid plans, a few of my friends called to bow out of their commitment to attend as one family had symptoms of the swine flu that is threatening to turn into a pandemic in the UK while other folks called for other reasons. Stephanie had injured her knee in a cycling accident in Richmond and Rahul was tied up at work. Milan called to say he would arrive late—this allowed us to actually have a sit down dinner at Paul and Loulou’s massive dining table which seats twelve people. With our Indian meal delivered at 7. 45 pm and our guests still trickling in, the evening started to get clamorous. Our friends Matt and Rosa were the first to arrive from far away Bishops Stortford and were followed rapidly by a host of other people from closer home. Rosemary brought her art connoisseur son Alexander along. He became fascinated by the marvelous collection of contemporary British art in the flat and walked pensively around the framed works that line the walls of this massive loft. It was fun to see how astounded people were as they entered this cavernous space and every single one of them asked me how on earth I had managed to find this incredible dwelling. Doubtless they could not wait to meet owners Paul and Loulou who would be joining us later in the evening.
Well, the party went along swimmingly. I was so pleased that Llew had the chance to meet so many of the new friends I made in London including Bash who came minus the date he said he would be bringing along. Milan did arrive just as we sat down to eat dinner which involved pulling along an extra chair to the table. Conversation flowed easily as my guests got to know one another over wine and pakoras, chicken biryani and the raita that I had rustled up in the afternoon after our return from grocery shopping. For dessert, Tim, who was once a West End chef, had brought along his amazing Brown Bread Ice-cream that he decorated expertly with fresh strawberries that he then served as an accompaniment. The overall impression was stunning and I have to say that my guests were quite floored by Tim’s expertise.
True to their word, Paul and Loulou arrived at half past ten and then spent the next hour mingling with my guests and getting to know them. They were able to enlighten Alex who wanted to know more bout their favorite artists and in turn recommended a few of his favorite galleries for their browsing pleasure. Indeed it was a lovely end to a superb evening and Loulou even stayed on to help us clear up and put things away long after the last of our guests left at midnight.
A Tearful Goodbye:
Since she was leaving for Suffolk the next morning, I said a very tearful goodbye to her and Paul. They have proven to be the most wonderful friends a single gal could have desired in London and I do believe that they came into my life as the answer to my prayers. I spent the most memorable weeks in their London loft as well as enjoyed their country lifestyle in Iken, Suffolk, where they enjoy the rural riches of England. They were great company to me on the occasional times that they did pop into their London pad and we had great dinners and breakfasts together when we discussed our mutual love for gardens and art, theater and books, London, India (where they honeymooned for six whole months!) and the United States. I know I will always carry happy memories in my heart of my days with them. It has hard for me to believe that I met them for the first time only six months ago—so close have we grown!
It was almost 1. 30 pm when Llew and I switched off the last of the lights and set our alarm for our early departure for Oxford—after leaving loads of biryani for Loulou and Paul in their freezer! Indeed, we had the 6. 30 am coach to catch from Victoria and with my lecture reposing for the night in my pocket book, I hoped very much that all would go well for me when a new day dawned.
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