Visit to one of the UAE's Biggest Attractions: The Shaikh Zayed Grand Mosque

 Wednesday, December 1, 2021

Abu Dhabi

Visit to one of the UAE's Biggest Attractions: The Shaikh Zayed Grand Mosque

 

            Today is Chriselle’s birthday and top most on our To-Do List was a call to her. Fortunately, Llew has Shahab’s phone for use during our time in the UAE. But we would have to wait until late in the evening (due to the time-difference) before we placed a call.

            Our day began leisurely.  We slept well but felt vacation lethargy settle over us. As a result, it was pretty late by the time we showered, dressed and made our way outside for breakfast. Meena had been hard at work and presented us with a bountiful breakfast: eggs scrambled with chicken sausages (a sausage bhurji). It was absolutely delicious and was eaten with slices of bread. Plus there was coffee to keep us going for what would be another tiring day. We were headed to the Grand Mosque—a first time for Llew although it was going to be a second time for me (I had toured it with an NYU team, a few years ago, when I was attending a Leadership Seminar at NYU-Abu Dhabi). 

            Breakfast done, we were ready to leave and Ashley was ready to drive us there. It is about a fifteen-minute drive to the mosque which has become one of the biggest attractions in the UAE—and not without very good reason. It is truly spectacular. In fact, long before you even enter the building, you are completely thrilled by the architecture which has the simplest lines—a few domes, a few minarets—all in pure white concrete. It never fails to remind me of the Taj Mahal at Agra, except that it is a much larger structure. Needless to say, I started to take pictures long before we set foot anywhere in the mosque precincts. 

 

Visiting the Shaikh Zayed Grand Mosque:

We reached there effortlessly and made our way to the regular car park. Inquiries with the watchman on duty, however, informed us of the fact that entrance to the mosque is now strictly regulated due to Covid constraints. We had to walk to a new, glass-domed structure where our vaccination certificates and negative Covid tests results were very carefully checked. An escalator then took us underground into a marble and glass shopping foyer that resembled a mall. 

It was at this point that we ran into a woman who came towards us to ask if I had a head covering or long-sleeved outfit (I was wearing jeans and a short-sleeved T-shirt). Having visited the mosque before, I was aware that women were required to wear an ‘abaya’—a black hooded tunic which used to be provided for free at the entrance. However, the woman explained that, as a result of Covid regulations, those coverings were no longer being offered. Female visitors needed to be dressed appropriately or would need to buy an abaya that cost the equivalent of $15 from one of the shops in the place that looked like the foyer of a mall. Luckily, I remember that I had left my black (long-sleeved) hoodie in Ashley’s car (as I do find air-conditioning in cars too strong, sometimes, and need a wrap). I decided to go back to the car, bring in my hoodie and wear it into the mosque. That would more than suffice, the woman said. Hence, I returned to the car with Ashley leaving Llew to pick up his whatsapp messages outside McDonald’s by using their free wifi, and a few minutes later, I returned to the mosque again. 

We then had to walk underground, from this entrance to the mosque itself along beautiful spacious marble walkways that were fully air-conditioned.  This prevented us from having to walk under the hot sun. All along the walkway, there were huge pictures of international dignitaries lining the walls to announce the eminence of this venue: Queen Elizabeth II of England and her late husband, Prince Philip; their son, Prince Charles; the current Pope Francis, etc. And then, after what seems like ages of walking along the marble-clad corridors, you enter the mosque and are immediately overwhelmed by its beauty.  The first thing you notice is what seem like hundreds of slender marble columns inlaid with semi-precious  stones to form delicate floral skein designs that climb up the top of columns that are crowned with what look like upturned crowns of golden acanthus. The ceiling is also adorned with a stucco design in sage green and white which is also strikingly delicate. All the while you are walking alongside the main space of open-air worship which, I am certain, could accommodate many thousands of Muslims at prayer. The floor is equally striking, as it too is entirely clad in marble, inlaid with very large botanical designs in varied shades of green and coral marble. From time to time, you will pass by a niche made entirely of blue Turkish tiles from Iznik that resemble the intricate designs of a prayer rug or carpet.

Eventually, on following the directional arrows for visitors, you will enter inside one of the halls of prayer characterized by gigantic glass chandeliers made in Murano, Italy. They cast a soft golden glow on the ceiling and the floor. At other times, you will pass by entire walls embellished with more marble flowers, leaves and stems that looks like fine embroidery. More Murano chandeliers, looking a bit like upturned umbrellas, are found further in the main hall. While, in the past, visitors could stand right under them, today you can only look at them from afar. There is also a gigantic silk carpet on the floor that is breathtaking in itss size, soft coloring and design. Curves on the ceiling, more columns to hold the higher floors in place and support the many domes bring aesthetics and architecture together in a seamless union that makes it impossible to stop clicking photos. There are windows clad entirely in glass with etched stars on them surrounding a primary flower-like motif (in keeping with the principles of Islamic design that does not permit the use of human figures). 

When we had finished our tour of the inside, we were out in the bright sunlight again. There, once again, I was able to notice and appreciate the stuccoed design running alongside the walls and surrounding arched doorways and on columns everywhere where Islamic calligraphy added to the splendor of the place. Yet, despite all this opulence, at no point did the place feel gaudy, over-the-top or ugly. It is such an exquisite statement in luxurious restraint that I felt as if I could start the whole tour right away and notice completely different elements to enchant me.

I have said this before and I will say it again—to go to Abu Dhabi and not to visit this masterpiece of architecture and interior design would be like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tour or going to New York and not making a trip to Lady Liberty. The monument has come to be synonymous with the UAE (at least in my book) and I do think that I would gladly return to the spot, if only to marvel at the possibility of human wealth and human craftsmanship, if ever the opportunity presented itself.

On our ride back home to Ashley’s place, he took us alongside the Cornich again so that we could admire the intriguing architecture that has come to represent Abu Dhabi—buildings that resemble pineapples, leaning towers, etc. 

The long National Day weekend had begun and with all the emiratis in holiday mood and spirit, Karen and Sharon were off to spend it with friends in Dubai. Just before they left, we took some pictures with them around the Christmas tree that was up already and decorated beautifully by Sharon and Meena in shade of red and gold alone.

By the time we returned home, it was time for a long afternoon nap when we gave our feet a rest and prepared ourselves for the evening’s program. For Llew and I had offered to take Ashley and Meena out for dinner and their daughters suggested a Thai eatery called Desert Lotus that was a good 20-minute drive away.

 

Dinner (and Fireworks) at Desert Lotus Thai Restaurant:

Accordingly, we freshened up after our naps and then got dressed for dinner. We enjoyed the drive in the darkness when all the architectural gems of the city are lit up skillfully and beautifully to highlight their angles and curves and after crossing a bridge arrived at the venue. Then, much to our delight, just as we got out of the elevator and headed to the entrance of the restaurant, the sky exploded as the firework display began! And it was awesome! The sky was turned into a garden of fountains in fluorescent colors. The show continued for about ten minutes as we used our cameras to videotape the spectacle. It is just uncanny as our timing was simply perfect. A few minutes later and we would have missed it all!

The restaurant was lovely and the wait staff were gracious. We ordered drinks (margaritas for the ladies, wine for Llew, whisky for Ashley) and then picked the most tempting items off the menu: tom kha gai soup (spicy-sour chicken soup with mushrooms in coconut milk), chicken in basil and cashew nuts, prawns, pad thai. We loved every morsel of our selections—they were just delicious. Conversation flowed easily as we made the most of our time together and toasted our hosts for being so attentive and generous to us. While we were at the restaurant, we called Chriselle to wish her for her birthday—hence all four of us could speak to her and she was delighted.  

Dinner done, we entered the car again and made our way home on what had been another super-exciting and very active day in the UAE. Indeed, the place has turned into a tourist paradise and I was simply thrilled that we were able to enjoy it together after so many years.

Until tomorrow, kuda hafiz…