A Fabulous Day of Discovery—Exploring Primrose Hill, Regent’s Park, Regent’s Canal Tow Path and Holland Park. Plus a Celebrity ‘Helicade’ Flies Above me

Wednesday, September 17,

Battersea, London

A Fabulous Day of Discovery—Exploring Primrose Hill, Regent’s Park, Regent’s Canal Tow Path and Holland Park. Plus a Celebrity ‘Helicade’ Flies Above me!

I had another fabulous (if profoundly fatiguing) day in London! Truly, as Dr. Johns put it, “When a man is tired of London, he tired of life itself”. So, as is my wont, evey time I am in London, I attempt to discover a part of the city I have never seen before—and this time, it was Primrose Hill. I plucked a Walking Tour route right off the internet before leaving home in Bombay, and Voila! I was off.

Off On a Walking Tour of Primrose Hill:

Primrose Hill is one of those chichi parts of London, inhabited by the well-heeled and the upper-crusted. It is right off the beaten path and when you are in its environs, it is hard to believe you are in the midst of a bustling global city—so serene and secluded is this place.

So I awoke, showered, breakfasted (on cake!—remnants of my Bottomless Cake Experience still languishing in the fridge) and set off at 9.45 am (Roz had already left for a breakfast meeting with a friend). I took the 344 bus toi Battersea Power Station Tube Station and from there boarded the Northern Line Tube lien to Chalk Farm. From there, I followed my walking tour route.

To say that it was delightful would be a huge understatement. The day was grey and cloudy, very windy and there was a soft and gentle spritz on my face. As long as it stayed this way, I was fine. I just hoped it would not get any wetter. I started up along stretts that were architecturally interesting for the fact that they were built at least two centuries ago in the style that has become quintessentially English. Generally three stories, they have a front porch, a ground floor level with a living room, a second and third floor with bedrooms and, in the more expensive versions, basements (where kitchens are usually located to lead directly out into back gardens). I took in these sights and came upon, quite suddenly, a blue plaque. Now as someone who can never pass a blue plaque without reading it to find ut who lived in the house, I found that it was the hoem of Dr. B.R. Ambedkar, a titan of Indian history, drafter of the Indian Constitution, champion of the outcastes and down-trodden (now known as Dalits) in India. That he lived on Primrose Hill—who knew? I though it a lovely find! Dr. Raja Ram Mohan Roy used to live in a house on Bedford Square, right next to the building where NYU-London is located.

I have to say that at this point, I began to notice dozens of helicopters, one after the other, circling the skies above. I had no idea what they were or meant, but some of them clearly looked like army vehicles. I would find out soon enough.

The President is Coming!

Soon, I arrived at the entrance to Primrose Hill Park and began the climb to the vantage point from which one has lovely views of the city. Once I huffed and puffed my way up there, I noticed a large number of people facing the view with massive cameras in their hands—they were clearly professional photographers, if one wen t by the bazooka camera lenses in their hands and the sophistication of the tripods that they had set up. After taking in th views myself, I went up to one of them and asked what they were looking at or waiting for and was duly imformed that Trump’s entourage was expected to be flying past any minute as he was currently at Westminster and was due to fly on to Windsor. This explained the multitude of copters in the air—they were, apparently, clearing the air space to ensure full security as Trump flew past.

Well, of course, standing there and waiting for the big moment was a no-brainer—so I joined the celebrity-spotters with my humble little I-phone camera in my hand, hoping to also record this extraordinary moment. Meanwhile, I took pictures of the many London landmarks I could recognize: St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Gherkin, the Walkie-Talkie, BT Tower, Centerpoint Building, etc.

We did not have to wait long before the ‘helicade’ began. Apparently, the President always travels in an entourage of three helicopters so that snipers will not know which one to target. I spied two identical ones—he was supposedly in the first one, with a third security one following last—it has dual propellers which was a giveaway. Everyone had their eyes or their cameras trained on the helicade and so, of course, we had our big moments. And then, soddenly, when the fly-past was finished, the hordes disappeared just as suddenly. And so I had my most unexpected brush with global diplomacy. Let us hope that a lot of good productive thigns will come out of this pomp and ceremony.

Continuing down the hill on my walking route, I arrived at Regent’s Park Road. These are very posh parts of London and are punctuated by chic coffee shops, bakeries (from which the most appetizing aromas emanate), boutiques, etc. I walked by all of them, of course, and eventually, arrived at Regent’s Canal. I took the steps down to the Tow Path, as instructed, and gave myself up to the sheer pleasure of enjoying one of the prettiest and most unspoiled parts of the capital. Once upon a time, during the 19th century, these tow paths were busy, ablaze with business undertakings as the river played a very important commercial role and horses walked on the paths towing the barges. Today, they are paths for joggers, strollers, dog-walkers, etc. Autumn has come to London and I reveled in the crips, cool air. I so miss the change of seasons in Bombay (although NOT the winters) and Fall was always a season I adored (although Spring is my favorite). There is a great deal of color on the trees already and tons of leaves crackle underfoot as I walked. There are any number of house boats on the Canal and is it fascinating to imagine the lifestyle of these river people.

I then climbed up the stairs and arrived at the yard of St. Mark’s Church where I paused for a bit to take in the views and then carried on again. This time, walking along Chalcot Road, I arrived at charming Chalcot Square where I found the home once occupied by the American poet Sylvia Plath after her marriage to British Poet Laureate Ted Hughes. She lived in this quiet corner home for just one year, however. Moving on, I arrived at Chalcot Crescent, where I found the home at No. 30 that features in the Paddington movies. Of course, I took pictures at every stage. The houses in this area are also highly photogenic as they are all painted in quiet, ice-cream colors and are beautifully maintained. Their gardens also sport the last summer blooms and autumn flowers are everywhere—sunflowers and autumn joy sedum. At one point, I passed by the home of Jose Rizal, statesman and prominent politician in the Phillipines.

Moving on, I arrived again at Regent’s Park Road at which point, the walking tour ended and I was able to get back on the Tube at Chalk Farm Station. It had been a most delightful ramble and I am so glad I went—not just because I discovered a part of London about which I had heard so much over the years but because I saw for myself how desirable owning a home in this area would be (it is similar to Hampstead or Holland Park). I also saw how isolated it is and yet how crammed with the ghosts of historical figures who made great impact on the world.

Shopping at Marble Arch:

I decided to go ahead and do the shopping I needed to do while I still had some energy left. Needless to say, the nearly 3-hour walk had left me widned. My knees were protesting, my leg muscles aching and my lungs worked overtime to get me up and down those hills and dales! Yes, I might be a walker but all this compulsive exploration when I am in London, is clearly taking a toll on my physical abilities. I am very definitely pushing it! Makes me wonder how long I will be able to undertake such exhausting compulsions!

I arrived at Marble Arch Station, by which time it was almost 1.30 pm and I was ready for some sustenance before I began shopping. So up I went to the Café (stopping en route to use the rest rooms) and boy what a surprize I had! The Café at M and S has become very much upscale: it offers a most impressive breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea menu. In fact, the menu card itself is spiffy with appetizing pictures making you want to pause and eat everything. I thought I would go for the fish and chips (as I always have them at least once while in London), but instead decided on a Cheese Scone (also one of the things I love to eat in the UK) and a Very Chocolately Milk-shake. This would be lunch and it was substantial and delicious. I then texted my friend Frances who was expecting me at 3.00 pm that I would be just a bit late.

I hurried off to the Food Hall and picked up my stock of M and S cookies—truly wish I would have bought more but I know that volume and weight are at a premium when I am en route to the USA. So I stopped at just 4 packets of biscuits. Then, I marched off to the Womens’ Wear floor and found three pairs of wide-leg trousers that I wanted: in balck, navy blue and cream. Alas, chocolate brown was not available in my size and they do not do a black in this style. I grabbed the three that were available, went into the Fitting Room to try it on for good measure and then had it paid for and bagged and was off. I had one more mission accomplished and I felt very pleased with myself.

Off to Holland Park to meet My Friend Frances:

Then, it was to Holland Park where I had plans to spend the afternoon with a new friend. I met Frances very recently, on our East African Safari. We had hit it off immediately and have been closely in touch since it ended. When I told her that I would be in London, she invited me to her home for tea. It tuned out to be a most wonderful visit.

Frances has a truly stunning home. It is filled with the most sought-after names in contemporary Indian art. She has the eye, the taste, the style and she has brought it all together in a sprawling home that is gorgeously decorated. What’s more, she had prepared fresh avocado and smoked salmon sandwiches for me and, on the coffee table, stood a small glass cake stand with a red velvet cake, ready for my consumption, Sadly, I was too full with my recently-consumed lunch and told her that I would nibble later. So, we sat down to chat instead and to allow my feet to get some rest. During this time, I flexed my foot muscles and stretched my plantar.

After about an hour, we nibbled on tea, smoking peppermint tea and cake and then, fortified with our mid-afternoon repast, we decided to set out to explore the neighborhood. Now, unlike Primrose Hill, I know Holland Park well. It is an area I have explored because many scenes from my favorite TV series of all time, “As Time Goes By’ is shot on location in these parts. However, Frances lies on a most exclusive street—it is punctuated by houses owned by celebrities (although few of them live in these homes—being ensconced on their country states). I’m talking David Beckham, Simon Cowell, Andrew Lloyd-Weber and even, right across the street, opposite her home, the Maharaja Duleep Singh of Lahore, once lived. He was the one whose territory was annexed by Queen Victoria who then felt very guilty that she had robbed him of his heritage and ended up adopting him! He had spent a lot of time with her on the Isle of Wight.

So, Frances, who shares so many passions with me—Art, History, Gardens, Architecture—was a brilliant guide on the walk. She filled me in on the history of the place and drew my attention to little architectural details I knew nothing about. She has studied Art History at the British Museum—so she is truly a kindred spirit. Once we reached Holland Park, we passed by the famous Belvedere Restaurant where I had once invited to an evening’s reception when it was owned and run by the celebrity chef, Marco Pierre White. Today, it is in other hands, I believe. There was a shoot in progress for a mayonnaise commercial there and the restaurant was closed. However, on skirting it, we passed by a glorious Rose Garden where the last roses of summer—in my favorite color peach—were very much in evidence and photo-worthy.

Going further into the Park, Frances pointed out the remaining brick structures of the homes that once belonged to Lord Holland (after whom the Park is named). His bronze sculpture is to be seen later along the route. In the very formal Italianate Garden, Lionel and Jean, the two characters of “As Time Goes By”, had strolled in their much younger lives. I was thrilled to be in that venue which has remained timeless. Next, we walked through the fountains and sun dials of the formal English gardens—also showing the last of the summer blooms before they disappear for the year.

And then, we were following the path that took us to my very favorite part of Holland Park—the Japanese Kyoto Garden. In another life, when I had lived and worked in London, I used to come here to grade my students’ papers. It is a brilliantly conceived four-season garden: in the spring, azaleas and rhododendrons bring riotous color to the space nd in the Fall, maples in bronze, yellow, red and orange paint the scene with a completely different hue. There are usually peacocks strutting all voer this garden—but today we spied only one—and a bunch of cheeky squirrels who come right up close and beg for food. The focal point of this little garden is the cascade and as we walked towards it, Frances gave me a little lecture on the principles of Japanese garden design—quite similar to the Chinese in the concept of yin and yang in which opposites are deliberately brought together for visual contrast and texture. Yes, we took a lot of pictures together in the very soft evening light of autumn and overall were enchanted by our garden stroll. I could not have found a better companion for such uplifting wandering.

Back home, walking through Holland Park Mews, which Frances told me can be seen in so many movies, we returned to her place. As she was off to the National Theater and I had been invited for dinner by my friends to their home in Chelsea, we had to hurry off. She dropped me off to the Notting Hill Tube Station from where I would take the Circle Line to Sloane Square, In the process, I met her friend Sheila who is her regular culture-companion, and off they went.

Dinner with Friends in Chelsea:

I got on the Tube and about fifteen minutes later, I was crossing Sloane Square to arrive at Sloane Street to the home of my friends, Cynthia and Michael whom I think of as my ‘family’ in London. Of course, we had the fondest reunion with both of them looking well and ready to launch into a lovely catch-up chat. Dinner was getting ready in the oven when Michael placed a gin and tonic in my hand and offered me nibbles;;cashew nuts and crisps. After we’d spoken about everything under the sun, it was time to move to the table where I sat down to enjoy one of Cynthia’s delicious meals: Tuna Pie with a lovely golden potato mash topping served with steamed broccoli and carrots. It was wonderful. For dessert, there was Cynthia’s home made vanilla ice-cream served with stewed cinnamon Apples and Raisins. It was all superb but made more meaningful and memorable by the fact that they are such close friends of mine and that Cynthia considers me her sister.

Sadly, the time had to come for us to part as I did not want to be out too late on the street leading to Roz’s place. She was out for dinner and when I arrived at her door, I let myself in with the key and found the home empty. All that was left was for me to brush and floss my teeth, change and get straight into bed.

It had been a most eventful day and a very tiring one. I promise to do much less walking tomorrow when I have a date with my friend, Michelle. We are off and away to Hatfield House, another place I have always wanted to visit.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…