Clearing Out my Office at NYU and Meeting a Former Student

Saturday, August 5, 2023

Manhattan, New York City

Clearing Out my Office at NYU and Meeting a Former Student

Breakfast and Beginning my Big Task:

Being jetlagged still, I awoke at 4.30 am while the rest of Manhattan was fast asleep. I could not get over the sight of the Chrysler Building staring me in the face as I got out of bed to use the rest room. There is something totally awesome about being surrounded by buildings from a hundred years ago, each of which is absolutely crammed with character in its upper reaches. Who knew, for instance, that there are a bunch of animal figurines all over the tops of the skyscrapers in Midtown? But when you are looking at the rooftops at eye level, you pick up so much architectural detail as to be charmed out of all expression.

I was a bit hungry (as I am still on London time) and so I ate a bagel (that I had picked up yesterday) with peanut butter that I found in a cabinet. There is a coffee machine in this apartment but no milk or whitener and since I cannot stand black coffee, I passed on it and simply washed my breakfast down with water.

I then went in for a shower, got myself dressed and decided to get out early. My knee was aching really badly and I was very worried about it. I decided to stop at a CVS Pharmacy and pick up Extra Strength Tylenol as well as a knee brace (sleeve) that would provide knee compression. I had also used ice packs at Mary-Lauren’s to cool down any knee inflammation. I suppose I was doing everything sensible to ensure quick recovery.

It was nice to see Manhattan wake up to a new day. There were a few runners and walkers around and when I found out that there were bus stops right on Second Avenue, I decided to give my knees a break and take a bus downtown instead of walking to Lexington Avenue to take the subway. Accordingly, I jumped into a No. 15 bus that was sailing downtown and as it happened to be an Express Bus, I reached Eight Street in less than ten minutes. Traffic was very light as it was a Saturday and the city enjoyed the luxury of a late lie-in.

From Second Avenue, I had to walk across town towards Astor Place. It happened to be the day of some important New York City race (not the marathon which takes place in November) and there were all sorts of freebies by way of drinks being distributed outside Astor Place. I picked up a yoghurt and some canned drinks and made my way to my office.

Continuing the Clearance of my Office:

And so it was that I began clearing up my books and files and boxes of accumulated paper. There was no one on the floor, although the Security Man was downstairs. I felt a sense of deja-vu all over again as I went over all the papers and discarded, directly in the recycling bin, all those items I did not want. Again, I felt as if I were going through my entire teaching career with all the course materials and correspondence in which I have been involved through the decades. Little by little, in the dead silence of the office, with not another soul around, I was able to focus on my work and get going quickly.

Stopping For Lunch:

At about 1.00 pm, I decided to stop for lunch and thought that I would simply get a salad from McDonald’s which is right below my office building. But, of course, to my disappointment, McDonald’s was temporarily closed. The next alternative would have been to go to Wendy’s to buy their chilli (which I love); but Wendy’s was at least five blocks away and I simply did not feel comfortable taxing my knee in that fashion. With little choice, I crossed the street to get to Fresh & Co where I ordered a salad with rocket, green apples, walnuts, cranberries and blue cheese with a balsamic vinaigrette and it was really very good except that I think I was too heavy on the dressing. I carried my salad up to my office and I ate it there together with one of the free drinks I had picked up.

Meeting a Friend From Bombay:

I continued working steadily (disposing off a vast amount of paper) until 3.00 pm when I had made plans to meet my friend Avantika from Bombay who happened to be in New York. We had decided to meet for coffee at Le Pain Quotidien on 13th and Broadway; but as that venue would be a good five blocks from my office, I texted her to ask for a change of venue to enable me avoid using my knees. She did arrive at 3.00pm as she happened to be meeting another professor friend, Tejaswini Ganti, and when she did arrive at the lobby of my building, it was with them.

After greeting them, I took Avantika to my office where we sat down and had a nice chinwag. She is leaving New York in a couple of days to return to Bombay and would gladly have had had a Highlights Tour of the Met with me. But my left knee simply does not permit such an indulgence and I had to beg out of that one. A couple of photographs later, Avantika left. I saw her down to the lobby and said my Goodbyes to her with the promise that we would meet again in Bombay.

Continuing Through the Afternoon Session:

I continued through the afternoon session and soon realized that with my bad knee, I could not climb up chairs and tables to take off the artwork on my walls. As it happened, I had made phone contact with my former student, Aria, who is also the editor of the manuscript of my next book. She would be free after 6.30pm and she told me she would be happy to come to my office and meet me. I was delighted. Not only could I solicit her help in peeling off the posters, etc. from my walls, but I could also ask her if she wanted some of the items in my office such as an antique lamp, a set of novelty candles, a box of upscale tea. She was thrilled to have them all, when she did show up and I was so pleased that some of my long-term goods had found a good new home In fact, Aria took the lamp and dropped it off at her apartment which was just a ten minute walk away; and then she returned to my office to pick me up. She also used her marvelous height to peel off all the decorative items that I had so loved. During her departure, I straightened up a lot of my bits and bobs that were scattered around. I knew, by the end of the day (literally), that I really had very little work to do the next day as most of it had already been done. How thrilled I was, and how grateful to have Aria help me! We could then turn our thoughts to dinner.

Italian Dinner at Patsy’s with Aria:

I told Aria that I would appreciate it if we found a place to have dinner really close to my apartment as I was really afraid of having to walk alone on my bad knee. She was quite cool with that. So we took the Subway to Grand Central Station from Astor Place and as we walked along 43rd Street towards Tudor City, we passed by Patsy’s, an Italian restaurant that appealed to both of us.

Patsy’s was lovely and after we settled ourselves at a corner table, we ordered a white pizza and a salad with arugula and fennel. Throughout the evening, we talked about Aria’s plans—she is taking the LSAT exams to go to Law School—and her living situation in Manhattan where she works as a para-legal in a Law firm. We had a really lovely evening together and I was delighted that I was able to spend so much time with her as most of our interaction has been on email through the long years of Covid when she first began working for me.

At the end of the evening, after we settled the bill, Aria walked with me towards my apartment building. It was a beautifully clear night in New York City and I was quite delighted to live entirely in the moment.

After we took a few pictures together, we said our goodbyes and I entered my apartment building. It was late and I was tired and all I wanted to do was brush and floss my teeth and get straight into bed (which was exactly what I did).

It had been a very productive day but also filled with the joy of meeting a student who is now a friend. What a great way to end my career at NYU.

Until tomorrow…cheerio!

Hello Again USA! It’s (Somewhat) Good to be ‘Home’!

Westport, Connecticut

Friday, August 4, 2023

Hello Again USA! It’s good to be ‘Home’!

As expected, I was jetlagged when I awoke in my friend Leslie’s place in Westport, Connecticut, on my first day back ‘home’ in the USA. Everyone asked me how it felt to be back. And frankly, I had no real feelings. I arrived in the US in the dead of night, faced much anxiety at Kennedy airport with no internet connectivity, wondered how I could possibly find my way to Connecticut from New York and then when I was finally in an Uber, I could barely keep my eyes open. So no, I’m sorry. I simply did not feel the same excitement when entering the US that I do when entering the UK! Yes, this was once home, but it is not home anymore. Now I feel like a visitor, like a tourist, as I have no house here and no car. It is an extremely strange feeling and one that is difficult to describe. I guess it would be clearest to say that when I moved to India, I got the US right out of my system. I know! It really is inexplicable, but that’s exactly how I now feel.

Getting Set for my First Appointment:

Leslie, my friend, is the consummate hostess. It is amazing how she has thought of everything, absolutely everything, to make me comfortable. She has purchased a bunch of groceries that she thinks I will use and like (regular milk, for instance, instead of the almond milk she uses). She opened every kitchen cabinet and pantry so that I could know where things are kept and can help myself to anything. Same with the bathroom. She is just the sweetest person. I told her that I would have some cereal for breakfast with some milk and that would tide me over through my first appointment which was first thing today: My annual physical with my internist, Dr. Nirmala Monteiro was at 9.00 am (I thought), but when Leslie dropped me off there, I discovered it was, in fact, at 10.20 am!

Now my friend Bonnie was supposed to arrive there at 10.00am to hand over the keys to my friend Mary-Lauren’s apartment in Manhattan where I intended to go after my doctor’s appointment. So I simply called Bonnie and asked her to come and pick me up a bit earlier—which she did. She took me to her home and there, over a coffee, we caught up on so many things that we are looking forward towards, including the wedding of her daughter Halle, later this month, which I shall be attending. Then, at 10.10, she dropped me off to my doctor’s clinic once again and I was all set for my appointment. Mind you, I was carrying a large suitcase with me—a suitcase I intended to fill with items from my office at NYU which I would be clearing out in the next three days.

As always, my physical with Nirmala (who is also a family friend) involves a lot of chatter, but the job always gets done. I had an EKG (which was normal), and all the other tests carried out, plus I received referrals to all the other physicians I see annually for routine check-ups. It all went well and, in an hour, I was out. I have another physical scheduled for next September.

Off to Get a New SIM Card:

Bonnie was waiting for me to pick me up so that we could go off to the next place: a visit to my phone provider service at Bridgeport as my US phone SIM card was simply not working. We googled the location of my phone service (Cricket) in Bridgeport and in about ten minutes we were there. I discovered, to my horror, that although we have been paying a monthly phone bill (deducted directly from our bank account), our number was cancelled a long time ago. Apparently, if you do not use a number for more than 60 days, it lapses!

Left with no choice, I had to buy a new plan for a month with a new phone number. So purchasing that plan took almost an hour but eventually, I left the shop with a functional phone and the ability to access the web. It is amazing how dependent we have grown on our phones and how insecure we feel if we do not have a working phone in our pockets.

Bonnie then drove me straight to Fairfield Railway station where I bought my ticket and got straight on the train to the City with one big suitcase and a backpack in tow.

Lunch at Grand Central Terminal:

By the tme the 1.05pm train reached Grand Central Station, it was 2.15 pm and I was starving. Of course, I had to get some lunch before I got on the subway to go downtown to NYU to Astor Place. Getting a burger at Shake Shack was a no-brainer and so down into the basement I went. I ordered my Shack Stack burger and thoroughly enjoyed it. I have to say that it really hit the spot. Fueled by my meal, I took the subway to NYU and found myself in my office in no time at all.

Beginning the Clearing Out of my Office:

When I first entered my office the thought of clearing it all away seemed really daunting, but I was surprised that once I set my mind to it, it went really fast. I started off by meeting Billy Helton, Associate Dean, who had a lovely reunion with me. He told me that boxes and tape had been left for me in case I wish to take any personal belongings away from my office. I told him that the majority of the stuff in my office were books. He instructed me to place these on a shelf outside so that anyone could help themselves to my library when they returned to teach in September. Much of the stuff needed to be junked. It was basically photocopied material from the many courses I have taught over the years. Some of the paperwork for courses I have taught in the past were sent directly to the recycle bin. I went systematically through one book shelf and one set of bookcases after the other—but after two hours, my back did start to ache and I was happy to stop, having made quite a sizeable dent in my endeavors.

Meeting Amy at the Metropolitan Museum of Art:

I had made plans to spend the evening with my friend Amy Tobin whom I was supposed to meet at 5.00 pm. But having begun ‘Operation NYU Exit’ at 3.00 pm, I felt I could go on for at least another hour. Hence, I requested Amy to meet me at 6.00 pm—which was fine with her.

At about 5.30 pm, I left NYU, took the Subway Uptown to 86th street and then the 86 crosstown bus to arrive at the Met just a little after 6.00 pm. Amy was already at the Main Information Desk when I arrived there and we had a really affectionate reunion as she is one of my dearest American friends. We decided to spend the evening taking in the special exhibitions that are currently on instead of going to see our special favorites (I shall do that the next time I am in the Met with my friend Liz).

Accordingly, we began by heading straight to the Roof Top Deck. The Met, by the way, has late evening opening on Fridays and Saturdays—when the doors only close at 9.00 pm. This is a brilliant way to bring young folks into the Met. They make a bee line for the Roof Top Deck, as we discovered, where beer and wine flows, nibbles are munched and dozens of people take their pictures against the changing New York City skyline. I say ‘changing; because the horizon seemed studded with cranes and construction activity is rampant. Straight, tall buildings with (in my opinion) no design or character are reaching out for the skies as the city is growing ever vertical. Of course, Amy and I took pictures too.

We also stopped to admire the installation of Lauren Halsey who has used Greek and Roman classical architecture and juxtaposed it against her own background growing up in Watts in Los Angeles. Hence, African faces topped tall pedestals, four sphinxes flanked four sides, etc. It was all very interesting indeed. Next, we made our way to the ‘Buddhist Sculpture From India’ exhibition which was very unusual. Every item is a fragment from one of the Buddhist stupas in India. And finally (saving the best for last), we went to the see the Big Daddy of them all, ‘Van Gogh’s Cypresses’ which was a treatise on his use of cypress tress throughout his life but mainly towards the end once he went to live in Arles and St. Remy where he finally died. Two major works by Van Gogh were on display there: ‘Wheat Fields with Cypresses’ and ‘Starry Night’. Of course, there were a host of other canvasses, all of which features cypress tress as their main motif and I found it quite riveting indeed.

Pizza Dinner with Amy:

It was almost 9.00 pm when we finished seeing them all and decided to go out and get some dinner. As I would be making my way to my friend Mary-Lauren’s apartment at the end of the evening, we left the Met and walked towards 86th Street. There we found a pizzeria called Pizza Famiilgia and, as we were both hungry, we decided to get a slice of pizza each (Amy had the white pizza with ricotta cheese, I had the one with spinach and mushrooms). I paid $6.00 for a single slice! I rmember when you could get an entire pie for $6! I have to say that I am getting sticker shock at all prices in Manhattan. They seem to have skyrocketed since the last time I was here.

Off to my Lodgings in Tudor City for the Next Few Days:

Dinner done, we stepped out on the street. I saw a bus that was going downtown and decided to take it (instead of the Subway) as my left knee had started to hurt so badly that I was actually limping. Amy was quite alarmed by it and told me she did not think it was good. I had no choice, however, except to rest my knee as much as possible. It was clearly a result of overuse. I had been on my feet for more than a week and my knees are simply not able to endure that kind of use. When I arrived at 42nedStreet, I hopped off the bus and since I had to walk about four blocks East to Tudor City where my friend Mary-Lauren’s apartment is based, I decided to take a cab. I was just not capable of taking another step as the pain was quite intense. It reminded me very much of the hobbling I had done, 14 year ago, in London, when I had contracted plantar fasciitis.

A cab was stopped at the traffic light when I decided to hail it and in another ten minutes, I was at the entrance to my friend’s building at 45 Tudor City Place. It is not an area with which I am at all familiar and it was almost 10.00 pm when I got there. Hence, I felt a bit disoriented, but decided to just get to the apartment and go straight off to bed.

The doorman, Franklin, was expecting my arrival as Mary-Lauren had told him I would be there late-ish. He saw me to the elevator in the lovely Tudor-style lobby—indeed I felt as if I were living in an Elizabethan mansion. Once upstairs on the 15th floor, I gasped at the view from the window. The Chrysler Building was staring right at me, lit up like a Christmas tree! It was just spectacular. All around me, the skyscrapers of New York City, in varied architectural styles, looked me straight in the eye. I had never seen the city from this height before and I was enchanted.

However, I did not spend too much time dilly-dallying as my knee was really painful. I brushed and flossed my teeth and got straight to bed, just pausing to thank God for an incredible day and for the amazing opportunity of having this grand apartment at my disposal for the next three nights. Everybody should be so blessed!

Until tomorrow, cheerio!

My Last Day in London! Full English Breakfast at the Regency Café, Touring the Victoria and Albert Museum and Getting an Upgrade at the Airport

London, Thursday, August 3, 2023

I cannot believe I have arrived at my last day in London. Where did the week go? And yet when I think of the amount I have covered in the last seven days, the museums I visited the places I went to and the people I met, I think I spent time in the best way I possibly could.

My day began early (as I am still on Bombay time), This left me adequate time to do my packing and to take my bags downstairs to the living room. In the course of my packing, I discovered my lost silk scarf—a matter of the deepest joy to me. I did not have any weight issues, fortunately, and with not much stress at all, I kept my bags ready to be loaded into an Uber that would take me to the airport. But first, I wanted to see one more museum—The Victoria and Albert.

Early Morning Excursion to Westminster:

I was determined to eat at least one Full English Breakfast before I left the UK. Having googled places to best accomplish this, I came upon the iconic Regency Café in Westminster which has been around for more than a century. It appeared to be your basic “greasy spoon” but one that served up an enviable meal at a fraction of the cost of the fancier places. I was also looking for company. So when my friend Farhat told me that she was free today and would be happy to join me at the Victoria and Albert Museum, I asked her if she could make it any earlier—early enough to join me for breakfast at the Regency. And she could! Next thing I knew, I made plans to meet her there at 8.30 am. Only it took me longer to get there from Battersea than I had imagined.

A Full English Breakfast at the Regency Café:

I had consulted with my friend Roz as to the best way to get to the Regency which is on Regency Street in Westninster. She googled it and suggested I take the bus to Vauxhall, then cross Vauxhall Bridge on foot and find the street over on the other side. And that was exactly what I did. In fact, once I reached Vauxhall on the 352 bus, I found out that there was the No. 2 bus that could get me over the bridge without my having to foot it out. It took about ten minutes for the bus to appear, but once I hopped on, it got me across the bridge fairly quickly. From there, it was another good 15 minute walk before the café appeared in my radar. I was still early as Farhat had told me she could not make it before 9.00 am.

When I arrived at the café entrance, there was already a line that had snaked out of the space. I joined in and read the menu, written on a black board in the front. It was clear that the place specialized in humongous breakfasts—the kind that would suffice for a whole day. About ten minutes later, Farhat appeared and, after a happy reunion, we decided that we would get the ‘Set Breakfasts”—these included a single egg (mostly fried, but I asked for mine to be scrambled and they obliged), a sausage, two thick-cut slices of the tastiest bacon, baked beans or a grilled tomato (I went for the beans), two slices of toast and coffee. I also asked for a side of mushrooms (they were the giant black portobello kind—delish!) and Farhat asked for a side of hash browns. We shared the mushrooms and hash browns and had a hugely substantial breakfast—all of 9.75 pounds which is cheaper than can be found at any place. Plus you get the weight of history that such a place can offer. It is done in 1920s décor with green checked curtain, Formica-topped tables, an open kitchen and a person who took orders with a stentorian voice that would easily wake the dead! The café has been the location of many well-known TV series (The Sweeney with John Thaw, for instance, and some British films too).

Farhat and I found a corner in which we enjoyed our meal with lots of ketchup and brown sauce and what a grand breakfast it made! Of course, we chatted nineteen to the dozen before we finished every last morsel on our plates and were ready to get going—to the next course of action.

A Terrific Tour of the Victoria and Albert Museum:

My friend Farhat is a trained artist and I discovered during breakfast that she is able to do black and white pencil drawings like a pro. She is also familiar with the many museums all over the city of London as she moved here over three months ago and has finally found her bearings. When I suggested the V&A as our point of meeting, she suggested we take the Highlights Tour which began at 10.30 am. Accordingly, we took the Tube from St. James’ Park Tube Station (I pointed out to her the wonderful sculpture dotted all around the station by the famous British sculptor, Jacob Epstein) and were on the Tube to South Kensington from where I showed her the underground passage that led directly to the great museums of Albertopolis.

How lucky we were that we made it exactly on time, just when the guide was about to launch on the tour. For the next one hour, we gave ourselves up to the sheer pleasure of putting ourselves in the hands of an expert guide who knew her material like the back of her hand and was able to convey it so effortlessly and with so much style and fluency. Indeed a dream guide! Later, she said her name was Natalie.

So here are the items to which she led us:

Dale Chihuly Chandelier in the main lobby

1.

Ceramics from the Tomb of Buyanquli Khan in Bukhara, Uzbekistan (I have been to the actual venue and seen the necropolis or burial site and, believe me, those ceramics had left me open-mouthed).

2.

The Raphael Cartoons

3.

Bas Relief and Fire Basket by Charles Sergeant Jagger (in the Sculpture section)

4.

The Inner Courtyard with pond and architectural elements

5.

Chinese red lacquer throne from Quing Dynasty

6.

The Cast Courts with Trajan’s Column

7.

These items were on the tour and when it was finished, I raced to take Farhat to see the incredible Henry Cole Ceramic Staircase which is one of my own favorites in the museum, I also showed her the Poynter, Gamble and Morris Rooms that form the most beautiful cafeteria in any museum anywhere in the world—and she fully agreed with me.

And so it was that by 12 noon, we made our way out of the V&A after spending a really terrific morning there. It was wonderful to be in the company of a real artist whose eye allowed her to appreciate the finest nuances of a work of art and to see it through her eyes. We walked briskly along the road to get to South Kensington Station from where I knew I could get a bus directly to Battersea. Farhat walked me to the bus stop and waited for me until my bus showed up. In a short while, I boarded it and was off. It would not be long before I would arrive at Battersea High Steet (my stop) ready to call an Uber to get to the airport where I intended to arrive by 1.30 pm for my 4.30 pm flight.

Off to the Airport where Another Adventure Awaits:

My Uber driver appeared in just ten minutes and after thanking Roz for her warmth and hospitality, I was off to Heathrow airport. My driver used Ways to find the best way to get me there and within 45 minutes, I was at the Virgin Atlantic desk ready to check in for my 4.30 pm flight with ample time to spare.

And this is where the adventure began. Since my flight was overbooked, the ground staff requested me to take a later flight. Since I was alone and the next flight was only 2 hours later, I decided to go for it. They offered compensation by way of a voucher for 250 pounds—not a bad deal. They also offered me an upgrade to Premium Economy and, all said and done, it did not seem like a bad idea to me at all. I had two more hours to spare at the airport and I filled it by looking at some of the shops at which I could use the voucher. Jo Malone, of course, immediately, came to mind. I hope I can use the voucher on my way back.

Finally, it was time for my flight to be announced and I made my way to the gate. I had a lovely travel companion called James Hackland who turned out to be a British research scientist at Memorial Sloane Kettering Hospital in Manhattan. He works on stem cell research and he was able to give me really interesting information about himself and his line of work. I found the extra leg room such a blessing, not to mention the really good food on the flight. Aside from drinks, I had a gin and tonic and a nice meal of pulled pork, the best part was being served a Full Afternoon Tea on the flight—one that included delicious sandwiches, a scone (complete with clotted cream and strawberry jam) and two types of cake: Battenburg Cake and a terrific caramel éclair! Can you even imagine my joy in these unexpected delights? Indeed, it was such a fitting exit from my favorite city that I simply cannot get over my blessings.

My problems began when I touched down at Kennedy airport. Although Immigration and Baggage Retrieval was a breeze, when I was in the airport precinct, I realized that my SIM card would not work and that the airport’s wifi system was down. It was simply unbelievable that you could arrive at one of the world’s greatest airports, in this day and age, and not have wifi. At Heathrow, free unlimited wifi is available for the asking, but in New York, it was another story altogether. Meanwhile, all kinds of Uber touts buzzed around me looking for the kill and it was with growing anxiety that I made my way to the Traveler’s Help Desk where a lovely girl consented to let me use her hot point. With it, I was able to reach my Uber driver, get a vehicle and make my way out towards Connecticut, I cannot even begin to tell you how expensive my ride was (almost $200) but I had no choice and I had to take it.

In the Uber, the driver was also kind enough to give me his hot point and I was able to call Llew and let him know that I had landed safely in New York and was in the Uber headed to Westport to my friend Leslie’s place. It would be a good 90 minutes (thanks to traffic in Queens) before I was able to reach her place. It was well past midnight by this point, but she was awake and welcoming and gave me the warmest hug. Yes, I had dropped off and snoozed a bit in the Uber. This allowed me to spend about an hour chatting with her and finding my way around her home as she showed me lights, bathroom facilities, etc. and made me very comfortable. It was not long before I was getting ready for bed after what had been a truly adventurous day!

Until tomorrow, cheerio!

London Lures Me Back! Haircut in Chelsea, Fabulous Fitzrovia Chapel, Lebanese Lunch in Mayfair, in Liberty of London, Viewing the Renovated National Portrait Gallery, Theater Show at the West End

Wednesday, Aug 2, 2023

London Lures Me Back! Haircut in Chelsea, Fabulous Fitzrovia Chapel, Lebanese Lunch in Mayfair, in Liberty of London, Viewing the Renovated National Portrait Gallery, Theater Show at the West End

It was another stunning day in London, weather-wise, and I made the most of it (there have not been too many gorgeous days like this, I am told, during this summer).

When Steam Trains Let Off Steam:

I was awoken today to a most unusual and very stirring sight. My friend Roz’s home in Battersea in South London, has a garden that backs up to the British Rail railroad track. This means that, from time to time, one hears trains whoosh past outside the window. Usually, as soon as I wake up, I open the window (of my bedroom) and draw back the curtains—so that as I sit up in bed (usually blogging or reading), I can admire the sight of the trains rush past as well as hear the planes as they make their early morning descent into Heathrow airport as Battersea is on the Heathrow flight path. Truly, these sounds are one of the best ways to enter into the spirit of London.

So you can just imagine how thrilling it was for me to awake to a strange new sound and sight—that of an old-fashioned steam trail (literally from the mid-1800s) pass by outside our window. This train, according to Roz, takes passengers “to the seaside”--all the way to the West coast of the UK (Devon and Cornwall). I grabbed my camera and rushed to the window to take its picture, when I realized that the train was slowing down to a halt. And then, right before my eyes, with the engine caboose almost parallel to my eye level, the motormen begin pottering around.

Next thing I knew, the engine began to let off steam! Truly, I understood, for the first time, from where that expression originates! For the next ten minutes (at least), long puffs of smoke emanated from the engine’s twin chimneys and flew high up into the skies. It was like viewing a live volcano with all the sounds that go with the letting out of such energy. I shot video footage through my camera and was simply delighted at the experience. It is not every day that one wakes up to such engineering marvels or to the unexpected juxtaposition of the 19th century in the midst of the 21st. I was simply floored! And just as I was taking it all in, the train began to move away slowly and the most stirring of sights became a marvelous memory. What an exceptional way to begin my day!

Breakfast and Off for the Day:

I had a busy day planned ahead of me, so I did not waste too much time getting going. I showered, had a muesli and yogurt breakfast and left the house. My friend Roz was working from home today—so it was good I left her undisturbed.

I took the bus straight to the King’s Road in Chelsea as I had a 10.45 am appointment with Mahi, my regular London-based hair stylist. But as I was early, I first strolled back to my friend Sarah Raynor’s place (she is Roz’s sister) to see if I had left my lovely Italian silk scarf behind at her’s. It was a gift from my dear friend in Italy, Annalisa, and it always gave me happy memories of her. I was sorry to have misplaced it. To my ill luck, Sarah told me to go upstairs to my room and check it myself…but there was simply no sign of it. Giving up after feeling really deflated, I left her place and walked to the bus stop to take the bus to Chelsea.

Once in Chelsea, as I had about 45 minutes to spare, I decided to look on the Fulham Road at the charity shops there as I was still seeking two bone china mugs. I enjoyed walking in Chelsea at that early hour, right opposite the Royal Brompton Hospital when there were still only a few people on the street and corner florists were just setting up their colorful displays. I walked into Octavia and left with a pair of ear-rings and a lovely bangle. This is why I go to the thrift shops—because you can find the most unusual (usually vintage) jewelry. Next, I walked down Brompton Road back to the King’s Road and I nipped into Waitrose (I love browsing its enticing food shelves—it’s an upscale supermarket) and then, by impulse, back into the Oxfam charity shop. I was still looking for two bone china mugs to replace the ones we had broken in Bombay. I had very little hope, really, as I have been in and out of this shop at least three times before and drawn a blank. And this time, guess what I found? A beautiful pair of bone china mugs with an almost similar Chinoiserie pattern to the one I had broken…and for exactly the price I had hoped to pay for them (ie. 2 pounds each!).

Armed with this buy, I had a new spring in my step as I entered Nails and Beauty, the salon at which my hair stylist Mahi now works. She used to be further down the King’s Road, in World’s End, at Greema’s Beauty Salon. But here, almost opposite Waitrose on the King’s Rod, she is much more accessible. I had a lovely reunion with her and then left myself in her talented hands. I told her I wanted a very short haircut and that was exactly what she gave me. Bombay is warm all year round and I am no longer comfortable with hair on my neck. Hence, the new, short look. Sadly, because the new location is certainly more upscale that Mahi’s former one, I had to pay 10 pounds more for my haircut—but she also told me that she does private grooming and if I am willing to get to her home in Tooting, she would be willing to cut my hair for much less money! A good plan of action, of course…only I have no idea when I will next be in London. Perhaps next year? Who know?

Off to see the Fabulous Fitzrovia Chapel:

With my new look and new hair-do, I took the Tube from Sloane Square Station to Goodge Street to get to my next port of call as I had to be at the Fitzrovia Chapel at 12 noon for their very special guided tour. So what’s the Fitzrovia Chapel and why was I headed there?

The Fitzrovia Chapel is a tiny gem of a venue in the heart of Central London that I had read about ages ago in a book on London’s hidden gems. Over the years I have tried to get into and feast my eyes upon its spectacular wonders. But the trouble is that it is open only once a week on Wednesdays and for a limited time. The last time I was there with my friend Rosie White, it was closed (much to my disappointment). I had left it on my list of things to do in London and thought I would make another attempt this time. And was I glad I did!

So here is a bit about the architectural history of a gorgeous place of worship in London that time has forgotten. It was designed in 1891 by the renowned Victorian architect John Loughborough Pearson (who has given his name to the Square—Pearson Square in Fitzrovia—on which the chapel stands) and was completed in 1930 by his son Frank. The chapel is small and contains a narthex at the entrance, a nave, an organ loft, baptistry, altar and carved lectern, but its most striking feature is its Byzantine-like gold mosaic walls and ceiling, completed between 1897 and 1901. If you have been to Ravenna in Italy, you will be immediately reminded of the tomb of Gala Placida which is one of the most exquisite of the Byzantine mosaic shrines in that wondrous city. (Please see my blog post on Ravenna for more sumptuous detail).

At the entrance, you have marble memorial plaques that recall the contributions of various worthies attached to the Middlesex Hospital, as this chapel was built as a place of worship for those ailing in the hospital as well as their loved ones who could come to visit. In 2005, the entire Middlesex Hospital was demolished to make room for the new swanky block of buildings that occupy the site. However, since the chapel is so exquisite, every attempt was made to save it. And the end result is that the new construction has grown around it—making the chapel the centre of attraction. It is a rather plain, rounded red brick building, but when you enter, my word! You stagger at the sheer beauty of it.

I joined the hour-long guided tour that was given by a lovely lady and learned a great deal about the place. She pointed our attention to the various interior decorative features that make up this space. The interior is superbly lit by dozens of electronic candles that look absolutely realistic and are so much better that the soot-emitting, real candles that would completely destroy this space. I paused to take pictures, to take in the details of the guide’s commentary and to tell myself how lucky I was that I was able to actually see this space that I had been meaning to see for so long.

Lunch at Aline’s Lebanese Restaurant in Mayfair:

It made sense then for me to make my way to my next appointment: Lunch at 1.30 pm with my friend Bande Hassan at Aline, a Lebanese restaurant in Mayfair. As I am trying to avoid walking too much (my knees have started to protect), I took a bus to Tottenham Court Road and then another one along Oxford Street that would get me to Regent’s Street where my restaurant is located. It had started raining and it was not pleasant walking in the driving drizzle to the spot to try to find it.

But find it, I did. And at exactly 1.30 pm, I was at Aline’s. This Lebanese restaurant was recommended by my friend Barbara as she has work connections with the owner who also happens to be a family friend of my friends, the Colcloughs. Anyway, we had a nice reunion, my friend Bande and I, before we were seated in a corner spot. The place is very small and, on a wet afternoon, it was packed—and, therefore, very crowded and very noisy. We actually had to shout above the noise to get the manager to find our reservation.

As in all Lebanese restaurants, we began with hummus (recommended by the waiter) and stuffed vine leaves (which I love). I was not impressed by these (they needed more filling and more flavor). Still, the hummus was the best I can remember. I had a tonic water to drink and when the food arrived, I was happy to find that my grilled prawns and my friend’s kafta (sheekh kebab) were served with rice and a small salad. We were served bakhlava with soothing mint tea to end our meal (and I do believe this part of it was complimentary—unless they also put it on our bill—which I did not see as my friend treated me to the meal).

It was still raining when we left the restaurant but we walked on Regent’s Street and I asked my friend if he was familiar with Liberty of London, the iconic department store that is now known simply as Liberty. He said he was not. I told him he had a treat in store and I took him in to show him one of the most beautiful stores in architectural terms. It is styled like a Tudor mansion and everything about it—staircase, main lobby, terraced paneling, etc, are all evocative of the Elizabethan Age. My friend was most astonished by what he saw. He also realized really quickly that the merchandise and the clientele are very upscale, but he told me that he would keep the place in mind for any special purchases he might need to make in the future.

The Newly Renovated National Portrait Gallery:

At about 3.00 pm, with about two hours left to see the newly-renovated National Portrait Gallery (NPG) at Trafalgar Square, I took a bus from Regent’s Street to get there.

When I arrived at the NPG, I found that the biggest aspect of its renovation is the grandeur of its new entrance which now faces Shaftsbury Avenue. This, apparently, is the handiwork of the contemporary British artist Tracy Emin. Inside, everything looks exactly as it had been earlier, but for the section on the ground floor which contains the newest additions. It is irritating, however, to find that Coat Check now costs money (and not just what you wish to pay). You are asked to pay 2.50 pounds to leave a bag there! Okay, I do get that they spent millions renovating the place, but trying to recover the money from visitors (who expect the gallery to be free –including its amenities) is just daylight robbery (and I hope other galleries and museums will not follow suit in such an obnoxious way).

So, among the new additions are a really splendid portrait of King Charles III—in the same dark grey color palette that had characterized the portrait of Kate, Princess of Wales, a while ago (and which had become highly controversial). There is a dual portrait of Charles and Kate, Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in which she looks like a long green stick! Also featured are portraits of Ed Sheeran, Andy Murray, Sir Lenny Henry, Anna Wintour, Michael Gambon, Grayson Perry with his family members and a photographic portrait of Kate on her 40th birthday. It was lovey to see these folks join the family, as it were. I then took the escalator up to the top floor to my favorite section—the Tudors. But the pace was so packed and the number of heads in front of me so numerous that I simply decided to skip it. I also needed to rest my legs as I have been on my feet for nearly a week and was beginning to feel the ill-effects of my manic museum-hopping.

Off to the West End to Take in The Patriots:

All the was left for me for the rest of the evening then was to take in the West End show, The Patriots starring Tom Hollander. I was treating my friends, Roz and Sarah, to the show as a way of thanking them for their hospitality and kindness to me during my stay in London. They were scheduled to meet me at 7.00 pm at the Theater (the Noel Coward Theatre) in London—at St. Martin’s Lane.

As I reached the theater much in advance of that time, I had to kill at least an hour. Ordinarily, I would have walked around, but my knees were not too happy at the prospect and I preferred to sit somewhere with a cuppa. I strolled around the area and found a Five Guys burger place—this has become my Go-To Venue when trying to kill time as it is huge and impersonal enough that you could fade into anonymity even if you are alone and do what you will. You can sit down without any order at all, you can munch on their peanuts to pass time with a drink, you can go the whole hog and buy a burger and fries and a milk shake. Needless to say, Americans flock to this place because its menu offerings make them feel fully at home and you can hear the twang of American accents all around.

I rested my legs for a good one hour as I people-watched before I made my way towards the theater at just a few minutes before 7.00 pm. My friend Roz and Sarah were already there and, after going through Security and showing our tickets, we arrived at our seats. They were not bad seats at all and I have to say that we had a good time overall.

The play is based on true events at the KGB in Russia beginning at the time of Boris Yeltzin and extending to the present—an era in which Putin is very much represented. It is about the Russian mathematician, Boris Berezovsky. It follows this billionnaire through the decline of the Soviet Union and the rise of the Russian oligarchs, each of whom attempts to feather his own nest in the midst of a cesspool of autocratic corruption. I found the first half of the play really tedious as there as simply too much talking. The protagonist Berezovsky is played by Tom Hollander, an actor whose work I have seen in the TV show, Us, with Saskia Reeves. He played the role simply brilliantly and was very ably supported by the rest of the cast. We had a soft drink (wine for my friends) during the intermission when we took a break from our seats (that allowed very little leg room). I enjoyed the second half of the play much more (by which time, I believe I got my second wind).

As Sarah was really knackered, we took the Tube to South Kensington and from there, she treated us to a cab to her place in Battersea. It had been a lovely evening in the theater and I was glad that I managed to see at least one play before leaving the city on this trip. My friends enjoyed it much more than I did but that was perhaps because they were not as tired as I was.

Dinner With Roz at Her’s:

Back home in Battersea, Roz decided to put together an improvised dinner for us—Salad with rocket, a wonderfully ripe avocado, red radish dressed lightly with oil and vinegar and topped with luxurious prawn cocktail from Marks and Spencer that she got out of a package—very delicious indeed. We watched a bit of TV (Antiques Roadshow) as we ate and it was not long before, we decided to call it a day.

It had been a very long day, but such an adventurous one!

Until tomorrow…cheerio!

On The Isle of Sheppey in Kent, Ravishing Rochester, Viewing the Dulwich Picture Gallery

Tuesday, Aug 1, 2023

Visiting my Cousin on The Isle of Sheppey in Kent, Stopping off at Rochester, Viewing the Dulwich Picture Gallery

Getting to the Isle of Sheppey:

Today was earmarked for a long drive into the Kentish countryside to the farthest corner of England called The Isle of Sheppey and then on to Rochester. Roz, my friend, had kindly agreed to drive me there and back—a huge boon as public transport to and fro is a long drawn-out, annoying, time-consuming and energy-utilizing matter!

Still on Bombay time, I am now awaking in London at about 6.00 am. Roz and I had enough time for a quick cereal and coffee breakfast before we got out of the house (as planned) at 8.15 am, ready to beat traffic. However, it is the getting out of Greater London that is more challenging than anything else. Roz is an expert at the wheel and a dab hand at negotiating her way around the periphery of the city, for most of which she does not need a map. We did not have SatNav and she had to trust her instincts as we went through Dulwich and then out towards the east. It was a beautiful day and I was so thrilled that we had blue, almost unclouded skies for our drive. We ought to have been on the M2 right from the start, but somehow we were on the A20 for the longest while. As long as we were headed in the right direction, of course, we were not worried.

About 90 minutes later, we saw signs for Sheerness and I realized that I did not have Cheryl’s address. We tried to reach her, but she did not pick up her mobile or her land line. I had last been to her place maybe in 2016—quite a long while back. I remembered her address vaguely and also the lay of the land. I did remember that she lived in the town of Minster, close to the waterfront and a pub called The Playa. Anyway, we were soon going over the beautiful Isle of Sheppey Bridge and then following signs to Minster. It was all fine until we reached the very last bit (as I had only a vague memory that she lived on Southsea Avenue), but by then Cheryl called back and gave us directions. In two hours from our starting minute, we were at the door of her home ‘Catalan’ and saying hello to her and her husband, David.

A Lovely Visit with my Relatives:

The next two hours flew by swiftly as Cheryl looked after us well and we were able to catch up with her and David. The gardeners were in to do the mowing of the lawn and I was, fascinated, as one of them used a really small mower and took more than an hour to finish a small square of back garden. Meanwhile, their pond was being stripped and re-filled. Cheryl served us sausage rolls and tiny Scotch eggs with hot chocolate and coffee and we had eclairs for dessert. I admire the fact that although her husband is unwell and takes up a lot of her time, she managed to put together these eats and hot drinks and was able to give us a good round-up of the past couple of years since his diagnosis. After I gave them the gifts I had carried from Bonnie, her sister and my gift of a Murano glass necklace, Cheryl signed some checks she wanted me to take back for her and we said our goodbyes.

Off to Rochester:

It was about 12.30 pm when we left the island and decided to stop en route at the city of Rochester that is famous for its Cathedral, Castle and High Street. We arrived there in about 40 minutes and found parking in a public car park. The town was buzzing with a lot of tourist energy as it was a really lovely day.

Exploring Rochester—Cathedral, Castle and High Street:

The High Street was festooned with bunting and looked very jolly indeed. We joined the groups headed towards the Cathedral as I slunk in and out of the thrift shops looking for bone china mugs. I did find a DVD but not much else. Anyways, as we had arrived at the walls of the Cathedral, Roz suggested we go in and pay a visit. It is truly a grand edifice (like all Gothic Cathedrals are) and as we entered the space, we were amazed at the various features of it: there is a medieval painting still on one wall, wonderful carved granite altar, simply amazing Victorian Celtic tile work on the floor and a small section of Medieval tile that is still in place. A place of Christian worship has stood on this site since 900 AD and it was simply amazing to take in the nave and sanctuary, the choir stalls, the beautiful painted organ pipes and the Fenland Black Oak Project. The last is a single trunk of a massive Fenland Oak tree that had fallen in one piece. Master carvers then worked on using the entire trunk to create a long table which is now in one side extension of the Cathedral. We also looked around at a series of quilted panels that told the story of Creation. We also then stopped to say a little prayer in one of the side chapels before it was time for us to leave.

Next item on the agenda was the Norman Castle, which actually adjoins the Cathedral. Thin is the oldest castle in the UK as it was built within a couple of years of the Norman Conquest of 1066. It has a section that is still standing in its entirely and a large Close and Keep. Furthermore, the ramparts and walls of the Castle overlook the Medway river which looked decidedly cleaner today than I remembered it, years ago, when it was a murky yellow. All of these aspects made our exploration of the town very enjoyable indeed and we took a few photographs.

Lunch at The Cheese Room:

By this time, Roz was feeling peckish and we deiced to stop for lunch on the High Street. We passed by the King’s Arms pub where, many years ago, when both of us were living in London, my friend Stephanie and I had driven to Rochester on a Sunday and enjoyed their huge Sunday Roast lunch (for 6.95 pounds, if I remember correctly). However, this time round, the pub seemed rather empty and we chose The Cheese Room, a little restaurant with an outdoors eating area. We ordered toasties—mine was a Reuben with Gruyere Cheese and salted beef, a lot of mustard and a delicious tomato-apple-plum chutney that was served with it. I also had a bottle of cider while Roz had a ginger beer (as she was driving). It was fun to enjoy our huge lunches while watching the world go by—many families, children in strollers, etc.

After about an hour, I paid the bill and we left to find our car and move out of the city.

Visiting Dulwich Picture Gallery:

It had been our aim to make it to the Dulwich Picture Gallery in Dulwich, on the outskirts of London, our next port of call. But traffic, our inability to find a direct route to it and other snarls caused us to arrive just after its closing at 5.00pm. We were looking at visiting the special exhibition on Berthe Morrisot, but we had to content ourselves with strolling around the garden to take in the interesting sculpture dotted around as well as the exterior of the building itself. This is one of the architectural jewels of Sir John Soane, to whom I am very partial as an architect. I have seen a lot of his work, over the years (the Bank of England, the Church of St. John at Bethnal Green, etc. not to mention his own house that is a museum in Holborn, London) and I am always intrigued by the four Classical urns that top this building. Anyway, after a nice chat about all sorts of things and a leisurely stroll, Roz and I made our way back to the car.

Shopping in Clapham:

All that was left was for us to do some food shopping for a few things I wanted to take back with me—Badedas Shower Gel, Rimmel nail polish, Battenburg Cake from Waitrose, etc. Roz was very kind and patient as she found parking and did a bit of food shopping herself. It was not long before we stashed all our shopping in the trunk of her car and made our way back to her home in Battersea.

Drinks at The Asparagus Pub and Dinner at Home:

Both of us were dying for a nice cup of tea by the time we reached Roz’s place and tea we had. Roz suggested that since the evening was still young, we go out to the pub for a drink. First, we stopped briefly at Jack and Beyond, the place that has gained fame for offering the Bottomless Cake Afternoon Tea—sadly, I did not make time for it on this trip—maybe next time! We wanted to go to her regular pub, but found that it was closed. Finally, we ended up at The Asparagus where we both settled down with a large gin and tonic and more chatter until it was time to leave.

Back home at Roz’s, she put together, rather swiftly and expertly, an improvised salad dinner based on ingredients in her fridge: we had rocket, a lovely ripe avocado, red radishes and topped the whole with prawn cocktail (from M and S out of a package). It was all rather delicious and it made for a very nice meal as we watched a Christmas special episode of Grantchester. Indeed, it was a lovely evening and a fitting end to an eventful but very enjoyable day.

Until tomorrow…cheerio.

Another Weepy Day in London: Perfect for Seeing ‘The Rosettis’ at the Tate Britain; Wren at the Guildhall Art Gallery and the ‘Treasures of the British Library’ at 50!

Monday, Jul 31, 2023

Another Weepy Day in London: Perfect for Seeing ‘The Rosettis’ at the Tate Britain; Wren at the Guildhall Art Gallery and the ‘Treasures of the British Library’ at 50!

I am still on Bombay time and still waking up at about 4.30 am. The house is quiet, Battersea is still asleep, the overhead planes have not yet begun their flight path across the area to Heathrow. It is the perfect time to sit and blog, to edit my photos and send them off to a few select groups of friends. I also had a chat on the phone with Llew who is recovering slowly but surely from his bout with the flu. I then went in for a nice hot shower.

Breakfast was muesli with yogurt, milk and honey. Roz was leaving her home at 8.45am for work and I left with her. I was headed to Sloane Square to run an errand at Jo Malone which I did. I left with a nice gift—enough said!

I then took the Tube to Victoria and changed to get to Pimlico where I began my short walk to the Tate Britain. It was drizzling and I thought it would be best to spend most of the day indoors, greedily feasting on some of the summer art exhibitions of the city.

‘The Rosettis’ at the Tate Britain:

And so at 11.00 am, there I was. I had the place, if not quite to myself, at least not too crowded. I did not know exactly what to expect of this exhibition. So I was happy to find that it traced the literary and artistic contribution to the illustrious and highly talented 19th century British family that had the last name Rosetti (probably a result of some Italian ancestry). There were four siblings: Christina, William, Gabriel and Maria. All of them showed early tendencies towards artistic creativity; but of the lot Christina blossomed into a fine poet (I had studied much of her poetry in high school in Bombay) and Gabriel (who took the nickname Dante after his hero, Dante Alighieri) founded the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood with his brother William and became one of the best-known painters of the late 19th century. Together with his best friends at Oxford, William Morris and Edward Burne-Jones, he pioneered the Aesthetic Movement which evolved into the Arts and Crafts Movement. I have followed the lives and work of the Pre-Raphaelites for decades as I am passionately fond of their work. Hence, my deep interest in this exhibition.

The early part of the exhibition focused on the poetry of Christina, the early life of Gabriel, his entry into art school, his use of his mother and his sister as models for his work. There are a huge number of drawings and studies of his work in the first few galleries and if one is in a hurry, it might be best to go over them really swiftly to be able to focus on the last few galleries where a feast awaits. There are at least 15 huge oil paintings by Gabriel that use his own wife Elizabeth Siddal as a model. Sadly, she died within two years of their marriage by overdosing on laudanum mixed with opiates which she took for various aches and pains. This was a common 19th century remedy but chances of overdosing were always high. Gabriel took her death hard and his work became morose and focused on subjects that dealt with grieving.

Not long after, he became romantically involved with Jane Burden Morris, wife of his best friend, William Morris. The liaison shook the very foundations of the Pre-Raphaelite Movement and, for a while, there was an estrangement in the group. However, when Jane returned to William Morris, they patched up their friendship and moved on. The last few canvasses in which a very recognizable Jane Morris is the main subject featured in the guise of various Greek goddesses and figures from mythology, are particularly striking. Overall, it was a lovely way to see the major works of Gabriel (many from the Delaware Art museums) all in one place.

I decided to give my feet a rest and munch on my make-shift lunch. I had picked up an almond croissant and a hazelnut yoghurt from Waitrose on the King’s Road earlier in the morning, where I had killed some time before the stores opened at 10.00 am. I sat in the basement café at the Tate and ate my lunch and thoroughly enjoyed them both. I am basically ticking off items that I simply must eat when I am in London and the next item on the agenda will be the chocolate eclairs from M&S (which I cannot believe I have not yet eaten).

On the Bus and Tube to the Guildhall:

I had a 2.00 pm ticket to enter the Guildhall Art Gallery which is a free museum and where I was keen to see an exhibition called ‘The Big City’. I took a bus from outside the Tate Britain (as I was too tired to take the Tube from Pimlico which would involve a 10-minute walk). The bus took me on a See-London tour from Parliament Square and Big Ben, down Whitehall, past the Cenotaph, 10 Downing Street and the Horse Guards, on to Trafalgar Square before it made a sharp left to get to the Duke of York Monument at Haymarket and then rounded the bend to get to Piccadilly Square before arriving at Regent’s Street and sailing past Hamley’s before stopping at Oxford Circus.

I got off the bus and jumped into the Central line Tube going east to get off at Bank (was happy to pass through my old station, Chancery Lane, on the Red Central Line) and was at the lovely corner of the City where the most important financial buildings of London are based: The London Stock Exchange, the Bank of England, Mansion House (Home of the Lord Mayor of London), and just a block away, the Church of St. Lawrence Jewry (so-called because the area was once wholly populated by Jews), the Guildhall itself and, catty corner to it, the Guildhall Art Gallery which has a small but exquisite collection of Victorian paintings that feature London as a source of inspiration. It was still raining and I got into stride with a sweet little lady who was heading in the same direction and looking for the Guildhall too.

Inside the Guildhall Art Gallery:

Once I cleared Security, I entered the Guildhall Art Gallery only to find that I was a day too late for ‘The Big City’ exhibition--however, the canvasses were not quite down yet and I managed to catch a glance of a few of them, especially the very historic one featuring the coronation of George V.

However, there was another new exhibition—one on Sir Christopher Wren. They have replicated his ‘office’ in London, not too far from St. Paul’s Cathedral which he was tasked to rebuild after the Great Fire of 1666. This was a very cute space, the walls covered with his architectural drawings for so many of London’s churches (some not standing anymore) as well as other recognizable buildings such as the Sheldonian Theatre in Oxford. There is a large machete of a cross-section of St. Paul’s which is also awesome. What I loved was a depiction of Wren’s London (which would make a really gorgeous scarf, I thought).

Once I finished looking at the temporary exhibitions, I moved on to the Main Gallery floor and the one above it. This contains the Gallery’s permanent collection and includes several lovely works by Tissot, Lawrence Alma-Tadema and William Holman Hunt. But what really appealed to me this time round were two canvasses by John Everett Millais—the first depicts a sweet little girl sitting in church with a deeply attentive expression on her face. It is entitled, ‘Her First Sermon’. The second one, right by its side, depicts the same little girl in church, wearing the exact same outfit, but this time the picture is entitled, ‘Her Second Sermon’. Needless to say, she is fast asleep! There is both realism and humor in this depiction—and that’s why I loved it so much. I also took a photograph of ‘The Musicians’ by Lord Leighton and a large-scale 2009 depiction of The Lord Mayor’s Procession which takes place annually in London in early November.

On the Bus to High Holborn:

Again, the rain had not subsided and the ache in my feet and legs continued. It made sense to jump into a bus rather than walk to the Tube station. I was early for my appointment with my friend, Michelle, which was to be at the British Library. Hence, I decided to take the No. 8 bus from Poultry heading towards High Holborn. It was a grand opportunity for me to go past Smithfield Meat Market (which closed down just last week for complete renovation) and to pass through the Charterhouse area before arriving at Holborn Circle in time to get my camera ready to take pictures of the bus as it approached my building at 7 High Holborn.

was not long before I jumped off the bus, headed straight into M and S (which I always used to think of as “my pantry” since it was just across the street from my building—perfectly located for when I suddenly needed to get downstairs to buy something at the last minute). I picked up a package of 2 chocolate eclairs from there with the idea of eating them as a snack for tea.

I then crossed the street and went straight to my building—only to find that my concierge, Arben, was at his desk. I felt really fortunate to find him there as, oftentimes, he is away from his desk or has finished his duty for the day by the time I get there. He always gives me a most warm and affectionate welcome and it is indeed a joy to chat with him and exchange latest news about the building’s residents. He told me that my former landlord in the building, one Mr. McGovern, who actually lives in Ireland, had paid a recent visit to his flat and had mentioned me to Arben as the American professor who had proven to be such a fantastic tenant and whom he wished would come back! I was deeply touched by this and thanked Arben for sharing the information with me. We took some photographs together before I said goodbye to Arben.

On to King’s Cross:

My plan was to take either the 17 or 45 bus from Gray’s Inn Road (which is just at the side of my building) to get to King’s Cross. But when I walked down the road, I realized that they had really moved the bus stop (which used to be right near Argos) to the far end of the street. Annoying! But hey, what I have realized about London is that things keep changing all the time—bus routes, bus stops, etc. etc.

I ate an éclair on the bus and enjoyed it immensely before it was time for me to get off as we had arrived at King’s Cross Station. I was really tired by this point and decided not to go immediately to the adjoining British Library as I would invariably want to enter the galleries to take a look at more temporary exhibitions. Instead, I found a seat on the waiting passengers’ benches and, discovering that there was free wifi at the station, I was able to send out photographs to friends as well as edit my pictures. I spent a really productive hour in this way before I received a text from my friend Michelle. She informed me that she had arrived early at the British Library and would wait for me at the appointed spot, right opposite the entrance to the Treasures of the British Library at 50. I texted back and told her that I would be with her in 5 minutes.

Meeting Friends for A Fish and Chips Dinner:

And so it was that ten minutes later, Michelle and I were having a most affectionate reunion on the main floor of the British Library where I found that the décor had changed (as it keeps doing from time to time). We spent more than an hour nattering away before my friend Roz would have finished with work and would be able to join us for dinner. She received instructions from Michelle on the whereabouts of the North Sea Fish Restaurant on Leigh Street where Michelle’s partner, Mark, would also be joining us.

By the time Michelle and I strolled in leisurely fashion and arrived at the place, both Roz and Mark had already reached and had made each other’s acquaintance. Of course, we all got along really well and then quickly broke the ice as we ordered drinks. I had a pale ale, they all decided to share a bottle of white wine (since we were eating fish). We also all got the fish and chips with one having cod (me), another getting plaice (Roz) and another getting haddock (Mark). Michelle chose to have the shrimp scampi. These were served with large baskets of chips (with tartar sauce and ketchup) and for all of us, shared orders of mushy peas (which traditionally go with the dish). Needless to say, it was all delicious and we thoroughly enjoyed the meal even as we chatted about everything from sports, to movies, to forthcoming trips.

Sadly, at the end of a very enjoyable evening, we had to say our goodbyes. We all walked together to King’s Cross station where we took a few more pictures and parted company to take different Tube lines.

Roz and I took the train to Vauxhall and the 345 bus from there. We were both full and too tired to stay up much longer than to bid each other goodnight and make our way upstairs to bed. We knew we had a long and busy day ahead of us with our trip to the Kentish coast—to the Isle of Sheppey. And since it was our plan to leave by 8.00 am, we decided to make an immediate night of it.

Until tomorrow, cheerio!

A Much Less Frenetic Sunday: Church, an Iconic Indian Restaurant (The India Club), Tour of Benjamin Franklin’s House, Damien Hirst Exhibition at Phillips Gallery

A Much Less Frenetic Sunday: Church, an Iconic Indian Restaurant (The India Club), Tour of Benjamin Franklin’s House, Damien Hirst Exhibition at Phillips Gallery

Sunday, July 30, 2023

London

It was a real soaker of a day! After two blissfully sunshiny ones, I guess one ought to expect this sort of weather in London! Not that it dampened my spirit or enthusiasm.

I awoke early (about 4.30 am—still jetlagged and on Bombay time) to blog, edit and send off my photos and have an early shower while the rest of the household still slumbered. Breakfast was muesli with Greek yoghurt with honey and milk and a slice of buttered toast with blue cheese (Saint Agur—a favorite). Then, I felt sleepy again, slept for another 40 minutes, awoke in time to dress for church and leave the house for another adventurous day!

Church Service at St. Paul’s, Knightsbridge:

Sarah drove me in her little peppermint Fiat (looks like a Mini) to her weekly Sunday service in Knightsbridge where I have been before and expected to see my friends Michael and Cynthia, who also attend this church. En route, we picked up Ann Thompson, who, bizarrely and by a happy coincidence, happen to be the mother of Suzie Thompson, who was the partner for 17 years of Kadambhi Asalache, the Kenyan-poet and wood-carver whose home at 575 Wandsworth Road, had begun my exploration of London this time (on Friday). Ann (who is almost 90) gave me a lot more information about Kadambhi and her family’s association with him.

The service was said by the Vicar Allan Gayle and con-celebrated by a couple of other prelates. As always, I enjoy my attendance at Church of England services because they are fully absorbing from the get-go. The choir (singing a Mass by Hungarian composer Zoltan Khodaly, an associate of Bela Bartok) was simply stunning and there was not a moment for the mind to wander. The homily (as always) was superbly planned, drafted and delivered (please could these Anglican priests come and teach the Catholic clergy in India how to preach?) I loved every second of the Service (although, I will admit that they do seem to go on a tad too long—it was about 1 hour 20 minutes long).

As if this were not enough, there is an hour-long ‘Social Hour’ that follows every Sunday service over a very civilized glass of wine. I picked up a glass of white wine and joined in the conversation and, before I knew it, I was right in the throes of a discussion, with the Lector called Ben Furnival, who informed me that his ancestors were Empire-builders in India (they worked for the East India Company from the 17-19 centuries)! Realizing that the service and socializing took much longer than I had expected, I nixed my plans to go to the Tate Britain to see the Rosettis and instead (as my stomach was craving food and I had drunk a glass of wine on a practically empty stomach and was feeling a bit too buzzed for my liking), I had food on my mind.

Lunch at the Iconic India Club on the Strand:

I cannot believe that I had lived for over a year not even a mile from the Strand (at Holborn) and had never heard of this iconic India spot. In fact, I got to know about it only now that it is likely to close as I read an article about it on Twitter. Anyway, I could see why I had never even seen it before! It is located on a nondescript corner of the Strand, just adjoining Somerset House and the Courtald Gallery. You climb a flight of almost hidden rickety stairs to get to the first floor where the Bar is located and then one floor higher to the second floor to the Restaurant.

Upstairs, there are very modest wooden tables and chairs, dating from the mid-20th century, scattered in a horse-shoe shape. The menu is small and unimpressive. It offers standard Indian classics (dosas and chaat, North Indian butter chicken and South India fish curry). I decided to have a chicken dosa which was not bad at all although some might consider such a thing an abomination! It was served with sambar and chutney and was a bit heavy on the potatoes in the filling. The sweet waiter was Bangladeshi and he made small talk with me before revealing that the place is facing closure. On the walls are black and white photos of Nehru, Gandhi and Krishna Menon and these folks together with Jinnah often met here in pre-Independence days with a bunch of other UK-based journalists, including Chandran Tharoor, father of the statesman and my friend Shashi, to discuss the course of the Indian Independence Movement. It offered then (as it does today) inexpensive food for the belly even as it provided a venue for the dissemination of food for thought. (I paid about 9 pounds for my dosa and with a tip, it came to 12 pounds).

On to the Benjamin Franklin House:

Lunch done, I needed to walk down the Strand towards Charing Cross for the next item on my agenda: a visit to the only surviving home of the American Founding Father, Benjamin Franklin. I saw a bus come along and jumped into it for two stops (the better to save my legs and feet from unmitigated torture—they had already begun to protest).

36 Craven Street, where the house is located is right at the side of Charing Cross. It is a quiet, almost unknown corner of London, but it has gained fame from the fact that Franklin lived here for almost 30 years. He was born in 1706 and died in 1790—spanning the Long Eighteenth Century--and filled his lifetime with his endless interests and obsessions. A printer by profession, he arrived in London to create the Poor Farmer’s Almanac after having successfully produced the Philadelphia Gazette before leaving his ‘City of Brotherly Love’. In London, he rented rooms from Mrs. Margaret Peterson whose daughter Polly became his firm friend. Meanwhile, he had left his own wife and family back in the mother-country! Subsequently, Polly married a doctor called Hewson who was an anatomist. He dissected cadavers as part of his research and profession (many bones were found underground during recent renovation of the home in 1991). Franklin paid the equivalent of 2000 pounds/week today as rent for a whole floor of the house which consisted of about five rooms: a parlor, a bedroom, a living room, etc. His life was busy and included the comings and goings of many prominent personages of the era such as Thomas Paine for, among his many doings, Franklin was also a diplomat whose efforts engineered good relations between Crown and Colony. He was distressed by the waste of the Boston Tea Party and served as one of the signatories of the Declaration of Independence in 1776, Meanwhile, he found the time to invent bi-focal glasses (Thanks Ben!), a lighting conductor, to found the University of Pennsylvania (from across the Atlantic!), to write books and correspond prolifically with a number of people, etc.

The house is empty and had, in fact, gone to seed being unoccupied for over twenty years; but it was resurrected by Friends of Franklin, a group that funded its refurbishment. It reopened in 2006 to the public as a private home and tends to attract American visitors more than others. Because it is empty, it is necessary to create visual interest through the hour-long tour. Hence, an actress plays Polly Stevenson. She tells the story of her association with one of the greatest minds of the 18th century’s Age of Enlightenment! She is costumed and wigged and she acts quite well indeed as slides are projected on the walls and sound effects bring the era to life. Actually quite well done, overall. Star spangled banners and bunting on the exterior proclaim the American presence on this street in which a few time-ravaged, 18th century Georgian houses still survive..

It had been a day of continuous rain and it had subsided (thankfully!) to a gentle drizzle when the tour ended and I met my friends Murali and Nina Menon who had just finished seeing the ‘After Impressionism” exhibition at the National Gallery and were able to get to my site very easily.

Hot Chocolate with Friends at Café Cornetto:

Deciding to take a bus to Berkeley Square (the next item on my agenda), we jumped into one going to Green Park. We had about an hour to spend together and decided on a cuppa at a café. Luckily, we spied a Café Cornetto (which has a distinctly Viennese coffee house ambience) and stepped in there. Over hot chocolate and herbal tea and a plate of French fries with mayo and ketchup, we gabbed away, catching up on goings-on in all our lives. Somehow, don’t ask how, the time flew and while the steady drizzle continued outside, it was lovely to stay dry indoors with huge cups of hot chocolate and fun conversation. I first got to know Murali, over 14 years ago, when he had begun following my Blog. Because he too is a huge fan of London’s history, art and cultural scene, he began giving me recommendations for things to do and places to see. Today, he and his wife Nina are firm friends of mine and I was highly appreciative of the fact that they came to Central London and fitted in a visit with me all the way from Wimbledon on such a wet Sunday.

On to the Damien Hirst Exhibition:

Less than an hour later, we walked out of the café and into the rain. Murali and Nina walked with me to the Phillips Gallery on Berkeley Square where I found the Damien Hirst Exhibition that I was dying to see. Entitled “Where the Land Meets the Sea’, it is inspired by his stay in Margate on the Kentish Coast. It consists of a series of oil-painted canvasses (all of which look entirely the same and did not appeal too much to me) and two black and white series of Sea Scapes and Sea Paintings (which I found much more interesting). In fact, the series called Sea Scapes were so realistic that I actually had to go within an inch of them to ascertain that they were not photographs! On the other hand, the Sea Paintings were a return to his abstract expressionism with big blobs of paint in an almost monochromatic black, white and grey palette making up the entire story. Prices were jaw-dropping, ranging from $1 million for the large oil canvasses to $100,000 for the 12X12 inch version. The black and white paintings of the sea ranged from $350,000-500,000 and it almost made me wish I had some spare change lying around. A few years ago, I had the opportunity to see a retrospective of the work of Tracey Emin at the Hayward Gallery. With this partial retrospective of the work of Hirst, I have seen the oeuvre of the two ‘enfants terribles’ of the contemporary British art scene.

Getting Back to Battersea:

I used the facilities at the Gallery and then thought about getting back home as the Gallery closed at 6.00 pm. I walked in the continuous drizzle across Berkeley Square (there is a BBC TV series of the same name that I own) and arrived at Green Park Tube Station from where I took the Victoria Line to Victoria and then found the 44 bus outside the coach station to bring me back to Sarah’s home.

There was time for me then to pack up all my things and put them together before Roz arrived with her car to take me to her place for the next four nights. Sarah brought me a gin and tonic and a glass of rose wine for the two of them and we sat with delicious nibbles: fontina cheese sticks with Procuitto wrapped around, prawn cocktail in canape cases and pistachios. (I have learned from the British how important it is to keep cocktail nibbles light—only then can one do justice to a meal). We gabbed for a bit about theatre, literature and movies before it was time for us to say goodbye. I will be seeing Sarah again for the play (The Patriots) on Wednesday night.

Roz then helped me load my cases into her car and off we went to Simpson Street where she lives, just a couple of blocks away. At her place we sat watching the Antiques Roadshow with Fiona Bruce which we both love. It was located at Ham House in Richmond (a National Trust property that I have visited) and over Roz’s lovely dinner of mushroom ravioli with a light tomato sauce and a salad, we had a lovely cozy dinner while watching the show.

It was a much less crazy day today but I think my feet and knees are thanking me. I hope I will have more cooperative weather tomorrow and that I will be able to stay with my agenda.

Until tomorrow…cheerio!