Discovering the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, and the History and Cultural Lore of Cody, Wyoming.

Sunday, August 18, 2024

Discovering the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the History and Cultural Lore of Cody, Wyoming.

Early this morning, we gathered all our bags, loaded them into our car and said goodbye to the beautiful mountain cabin in the Grand Tetons National Park that belongs to our friends, the Deans. We’d had such a comfortable stay in this sprawling homestead with its indoor pool, outdoor pond and spacious decks—not to mention the vast amount of antiques and knick-knacks sprinkled all over the home. Had we more time to spend inside it, we’d really have enjoyed it more. As it was, we were only really there to sleep at night. So, we took a few pictures of the outside of the house and the views of the grand range of the Tetons that overlook the property which looked simply spectacular at 7.00 am as the eastern sun’s rays kissed them golden.

Drive to Yellowstone National Park:

It was a two-hour drive northward, with Llew at the wheel, as we made our way to Yellowstone National Park for out last day there . Once there, we stayed in the enter-east part that would take us into the attractions of the “Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone” which is one of the most visited parts of these massive parklands. So, in a sense, we saved the best for last. Once we entered the park, we made an error reading the map and lost about an hour as we had to backtrack to get to our destination. But we reached there by about 11.00 am and began our exploration of the area.

Exploring the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone:

We made our base at the parking lot of Canyon Village where we also used restrooms. From there on, we followed easily signposted routes to arrive at the main canyon which gives the Park its name—the rocks are of a uniform orche color. The biggest attractions in this area are Upper Falls and Lower Falls and there are parking lots in each of these sites. Of the two, the Upper Falls are definitely the more striking because of their height and sound. Many artists have interpreted this scene, through the years, in various media and we saw many versions of it, later in the day, at the Museum in Cody. (But more about that later in this post).

After seeing the two Falls (each in a different location, but both nearby), we made our way to the last and final spot called Artist’s Point. This lookout is so-called because the colors of the rocks that form the canyon here are so various as to resemble an artist’s palette. Naturally, it is also a very popular spot for picture-posing—which we did too. The rocks are streaked in longitudinal color and with the river flowing through at the base and a few conifer trees that dot the area, it is indeed very scenic.

Off to Cody, Wyoming:

With the clock showing about 1.00 pm, we made do with the many snacks and cereal bars we had stashed in our Food Bag as we did not want to waste time stopping somewhere for lunch. We had a long drive to Cody, Wyoming, where we would be spending the night. Friends (Kathy, Virginia) had told me about the amazing museum in Cody and since I have never met a museum I did not love, I decided that we should try to get there before the museum closed, if possible.

The drive to Cody turned out to be longer than we expected—about 3 hours. But, attempting to beat the clock, we did get there by 4.00 pm and followed our GPS directions that took us right to the Museum.

Visiting the Buffalo Bill Center of the West:

For those who know nothing about him, the town of Cody is named after a man named William (Bill) Cody, who, in the late 19th century became legendary in these parts. He started his life in quite an ordinary fashion, in the days of the Wild West when gold prospecting, gun-running, outlaw-hunting and posses were part and parcel of American Western lore. He began his career establishing traveling entertainment shows that showcased the West for the rest of the country to see: singing, dancing, spectacular revue shows, fire-eating, etc.—all the antics associated with live shows in the 19th century—became his stock-in-trade. In time, he took on the stage name of “Wild Bill Cody” and traveled with his troupes across the Atlantic, all the way to London, where a dignitary no less than Queen Victoria herself was a guest at one of his shows. Needless to say, he became enormously successful and wealthy and ploughed the money he made back into the town of Cody where he established hotels with restaurants, saloons, bars, etc. One of the places he founded was the ‘Irma Hotel and Saloon’ which he named after one of his daughters. His entire life is well mapped out in the world-class museum in Cody which we had a little more than an hour to explore.

We were very happy to be granted free entry tickets into the museum and, upon asking at the Reception Desk where we should begin, we were told to start in the Buffalo Bill Museum itself as that would give us a composite idea of his contribution to the area’s development and prosperity as well as inform us about his life. And that was exactly what we did. There is so very much to see in this place that you could spend a whole day in this museum—which is really five museums in one! We had time for just two, but they were a truly informative and enlightening experience. We saw taxidermied bison, a load of wile life of the area, plus stage coaches, etc. in a great stage of preservation. Lots of film clips of his shows—including rodeo displays—were available and we watched a couple. There was a great deal of memorabilia from his own life such as photographs, his personal possessions, items from the person collections of his children. etc. Plus, downstairs, there was a whole gallery devoted to color posters announcing his shows in various languages for different parts of Europe to which his performing troupes had traveled. It was all quite fascinating indeed!

Having found out as much as we could about Wild Bill Cody, we moved to the Fine Arts Museum which was on the other side of the main lobby. There, we were treated to a wonderful display of paintings and sculpture pertaining to the history and landscape of the region. It was marvelous to see original works by sculptors such as Frederick Remington who immortalized the Wild West through his bronzes. In fact, in one section of the Museum, there is a reproduction of Remington’s studio in New York which I found fascinating as it contained a collection of objects from the Wild West that he utilized in his paintings. There are also a number of canvases by a variety of contemporary artists (including one by Alfred Bierstadt) depicting the Upper Falls of the Yellowstone that we had seen only this morning. How glorious it was to see the numbers of ways in which artists can interpret the same visual scene. Outside, the scene was just as stimulating as there is a huge picture window through which we could see the mountains that circle the town of Cody. In the yard bordering the parking lot, there is a larger-than-life size sculpture of Wild Bill. It was all truly wonderful and we had such a great time in this museum. I was so glad we visited it and only wished we’d had more time to admire the rest of it, as I’m sure, it would have been just as stunning. If you are ever in this area, I would advise that you give the town of Cody at least one whole day in which to enjoy this museum in detail.

Our Accommodation at King’s Inn, Cody:

When the museum closed at 5.00 pm, we used our GPS again to find our way to our accommodation for the night. We had made a reservation at ‘The King’s Inn’, a motel which turned out to be a really goofy place. It’s logo in a massive lion’s head. Inside, there is a vast lobby that is absolutely crammed with taxidermied animals from Africa. You can well go on an African safari in this lobby alone—no need to go to the Masai Mara to see the Big Five! There are lions, antelope, rhino, crocodiles, leopards, etc. all ringing the lobby where you sit in the morning for breakfast. When I inquired as to why the lobby is filled with this sort of object, the receptionist told me that the owner had spent a lot of time in Africa and had been buying these items as he had the perfect place in which to display them. Hmmm…

Anyway, after we settled into our room, being that we’d had no lunch to talk of, we decided to go in search of an early dinner. I used ‘Lonely Planet’ to find a place and one of the spots they recommended was the ‘Irma Hotel and Restaurant’ on Main Street. Before we arrived there, I bought a few souvenirs (magnet, T-shirts) in one of the stores there. I have to say that the town is stacked with memorabilia from the days of the Wild West. They are trying hard to preserve the ambience of those times and I felt as if I had strayed into the sets of a Wild West movie.

Dinner at the ‘Irma Hotel and Restaurant’:

In this hotel, founded by Wild Bill Cody and named after his daughter, Irma, a big attraction in the Grill Restaurant is the solid oak wood bar and cabinetry that was presented to the actor-director by the Queen of England of the time, Victoria, who was so impressed by his virtuosity that she made him this enormous gift. It was shipped across the Atlantic from England and makes a gorgeous focal point in the restaurant. We feasted our eyes upon it as we ordered and ate our dinner.

Served by a wonderful waitress, we ordered the Cowboy Burgers which came with Sweet Potato Waffle Fries and a side salad. We washed it down with beers that were the perfect accompaniment to a very tasty meal. The restaurant itself had the feel of a grand hotel in the 19th century: it was strung with posters, flags, black and white photographs, etc. that recounted the history of the era. All fitments and furniture date from that period—which made for a very authentic dining experience. We enjoyed our time there, in that vast hall, surrounded by other diners, in a space that was upscale and historic enough without being stuffy. We think we made a great choice because other than finding really satisfying food, we had another little bit of sightseeing covered in this historic space. At one time, this building offered accommodation to wealthy prospectors and entrepreneurs who wished to become part of the business life of a thriving town. Today, it is more of a touristic curiosity but its association with a very colorful part of America’s past still lives on.

Our dinner done, we drove back to our hotel for showers and a much-needed rest. We had covered a lot of ground and we had certainly earned a good night’s sleep.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

More Thrilling Yellowstone Delights: A Guided Tour of Fort Yellowstone, Eye-to-Eye with Gigantic Bison and Elk, A Stunning Sunset and Drinks at a Pub in Jackson

Saturday, August 17, 2024

More Thrilling Yellowstone Delights: A Guided Tour of Fort Yellowstone, Eye-to-Eye with Gigantic Bison and Elk, A Stunning Sunset and Drinks at a Pub in Jackson

Today was probably our most thrilling day in Yellowstone National Park as we enjoyed wildlife sightings galore and managed to shoot them on camera—still and video—to our heart’s delight. But to begin in our motel…

We awoke at the Traveler’s Lodge in Madison, Montana, munched on croissants and had motel coffee (from the lobby) before we checked out and began the long drive back into Yellowstone National Park. Again, I have to make clear that Madison is the nearest western town outside the Park and yet it is a good two hours away from the Park’s entrance and even further away from its attractions. This explains why there is a lot of (rather boring) driving to be done in Yellowstone where all you pass are long ribbons of asphalt road ahead lined by pine trees on both sides.

Driving North Past Norris Towards Mammoth Hot Springs:

Our aim today was to cover the northernmost reaches of the Park—this explains why we had to do so much driving. Past Norris, we encountered Sheepeater’s Cliff where we stopped to stretch our legs and take in the unusual basalt formations of rock that formed a steep cliff in front of us. It was at this point that we caught a glimpse of another creature that is common in these parts—a pika. This animal belongs to the rodent family but he looks rather cute as he resembles a rabbit rather than a rat. It has cute round ears and rather than a snout, a nose that twitches, somewhat like a rabbit. We enjoyed its nest-building antics for a while before we returned to our car and drove on.

A little while later, we arrived at Mammoth Hot Springs Terraces. These are so-called because the calcite rocks which are plentiful in this area were formed in layers over millions of years. We could see the hot springs smoking as we parked our car and walked towards the clearly-demarcated walkway. However, the climb to the top that would afford panoramic views of the smoking ‘sulphur pots’ and ‘mud pools’ was so long and so strenuous that we decided to pass on it and take pictures only at the base. Here too, we could smell the sulphurous fumes and my sulphur-allergy was well and truly activated at these spots (in fact, throughout the Park).

Guided Tour of Fort Yellowstone:

Driving still further north, we arrived at the Albright Visitors Center where we stopped to use rest rooms and to find out about a guided tour of Fort Yellowstone which is in this location. There is a very nice exhibit in the Center that details the history of Yellowstone and its establishment as a National Park in 1872 We discovered that a guided tour, given by a US Park Ranger, was about to start in 15 minutes. We decided to join it and saw ourselves in a pack of about fifteen other folks.

The Ranger was very good and as he walked us around the premises, comprises of army barracks, headquarters, store houses and, at the very end, a little church, he told us about the history of the military in this spot. The military set up camp there for the first time to maintain law and order in the area. The biggest danger, then as now, was poaching and the illegal shooting of wildlife and the transportation of their skins and pelts had to be regulated by law. Hence, the origin of the presence of the army. We learned a lot of interesting facts about military life, living with wildlife and the changing seasons and the training and duties of field officers. The tour lasted about 40 minutes and gave us a composite idea of the role and contribution of the US military in this area. Since we were very close to the northern exit of the Park, we decided to drive further northwards and get to Gardiner, another small town. However, it was a disappointment as Boiling River which lies en route is no longer open to visitors as it has ‘disappeared’ in a recent storm. So we exited the Park and then made a U-turn and came right back into it!

This time we drove south and then eastwards along the Blacktail Plateau where we had our first major sightings of large herds of American Buffalo (bison). We stopped to take in the heartening sight (as did many other visitors) and then drove towards the junction of Tower-Roosevelt. Once there, we followed signs east for the Lamar Valley which is supposed to offer some of the best wildlife sightings in the Park.

And we were not disappointed. For the next couple of hours, the further east we drove, the more animals we saw. On this single morning, in addition to dozens of bison, we saw a large herd of pronghorn (also known as antelope). And as our car was driving slowly along, I saw a bobcat! This is a rather rare sighting, I am told, as they usually stay up in the mountains. Sadly, as the car was moving, I could not take a picture and Llew (who was behind the wheel) did not see it at all. Still further west, we saw loads of elk drinking water from a stream that lay glowing golden in the sunshine. It was all very very exciting indeed. This was what we had come to Yellowstone to see. Sadly, there was not a moose in sight and I would leave the Park without fulfilling my favorite aspiration.

Lunch in Cooke City:

A very long drive eastwards, out of the Park, took us to the city that is called Cooke City. It would make a good place for lunch, we thought, as we drove for what seemed like hundreds of miles to get there. This is a typical frontier town and resembles, in every way, Madison and, later in our trip, places like Deadwood, that we would see. In general, these towns, just like you see in Western movies, have a single Main Street with shops and restaurants lining it on both sides. In the good old days of the Wild West, you would have had horses left outside the entrances. Today, there are motor vehicles and we ran into a group of bikers who were traveling across the country and enjoy taking their vehicles into the uppermost reaches of the woods where they told us, they often come across wolves!

We found a place called ‘The Prospector’s Pub’ where we settled down to have a meal. It had an old-world charm about it and in its limited menu offerings, we found a cheese steak hoagie that we shared with a side salad. It made for a very filling meal with fries. After our lunch, we used the facilities and began our long drive back into the Park.

More Wildlife Sightings:

It was from this point on, that we had some of the most exciting wildlife sightings of the trip. The Lamar Valley Plateau is simply covered with bison and literally hundreds of them roam freely here. Oftentimes, they venture out on to the roads and it is here that they come within a few feet of people in their vehicles. It was here that we stopped our car as bison had taken over the road and one of them ambled aimlessly all over the place like a drunkard who did not know where he was heading. Eventually, he came right in front of our stationary car and then moved towards the driver’s side. I was so dumbfounded that I did not have the presence of mind to use my camera to take a picture when the animal was literally eye-to-eye with Llew, not even six inches away from Llew’s eye, as he skirted the side of our car and then ambled away, just as aimlessly. It was an unforgettable experience and the closest encounter we would have with wildlife during our trip.

Our Drive Southwards:

South of the Lamar Valley, we continued our drive. We’d had our fill of wildlife and were keen to return to Grand Tetons National Park before it got too dark. Hence, we decided to begin the long drive homewards. Along the way, we stopped at Tower Falls, so-called because the river falls down from an impressive height over granite rock into the valley below—albeit in the distance—forming a wonderful canyon. It was at this point that we had another unexpected wildlife sighting. A few folks were using their binoculars to look across the river and there, they pointed, was an osprey’s nest, with the mother and her two chicks clearly visible in it. It was another unexpected encounter with bird life in the Park.

Just a little later, we stopped to take in a rather wondrous sight. Peering over a ridge, we caught out first glimpse of the amazing Canyon that is referred to as “the Grand Canyon of The Yellowstone”. For those of us who have seen the real Grand Canyon of Colorado, the feeling is a little bit like one has on first seeing the canyon—it is breathtaking! However, we knew that we did not have enough time or daylight to be able to do justice to Yellowstone’s Grand Canyon today. Hence, we decided to postpone that pleasure for tomorrow when, at the very start of the day, we’d be fresh enough to really enjoy it.

As we drove further south, we stopped at one more point—to see Suphuric Cauldron, which, as its name suggests, is a bubbling pot of sulphuric liquid whose milky waters were highly odiferous. We would, no doubt, have many more such sightings, had we stopped at all those attractions marked along the way.

A Truly Stunning Sunset:

Instead, we pressed on downwards. As twilight was swiftly falling, I took the wheel. We drove straight on and, in about two hours, we left Yellowstone behind us and were arriving at the entrance of the Grand Tetons National Park once again. We began to feel very familiar with this terrain as we had driven through or by these points, it several times in the past few days.

While Llew simply wanted to get back home (it was about 7.00 pm, by this time), I suggested to him that we drive, once again, to the Town of Jackson. I needed to buy a few more gifts and souvenirs that we had not purchased on first encountering the town, a couple of days ago. Llew agreed and, with me still driving, we went further south.

was at this point while driving through the vast flat plains of the Park that we had one of the most stirring sunsets I have ever seen in my life. Massive clouds had amassed behind the Tetons on the left side of us and were billowing in huge, fluffy apricot folds that left me breathless. In fact, the rays of the sun were setting gently in the West; but it was on the Eastern horizon that all the magic seemed to be happening. I had to pull over at a lay-by so that I could safely take pictures as I was afraid I would not be able to commit so spectacular a sunset to memory And I am glad I did—as I now have a stack of photographs that still allow me to marvel at the changing skies that completely gripped us that evening.

In Jackson—Another Night on the Town:

In about an hour, we were skirting Jackson. We were not sure exactly where to go, but we decided to head towards the Central Square to park our car and walk about. Alas, at nearly 9.00 pm, with many smaller bars already shutting down for the night, it was hard to find parking. We had to drive around towards the smaller bylanes to find a spot in a free public parking lot. Once there, we walked about ten minutes towards the Central Square.

While the shops were still doing business, we bought some souvenirs: Christmas ornament, T-shirts, etc. and with these buys done, we began to look for a place to eat dinner. However, every spot either had a long wait list or was closing down. Finally, we found that the Roadhouse Brewing Company, a pub on the top floor of one of the buildings on the Square was open and still doing business. When we arrived upstairs, however, the waitress informed us that they were no longer seating people for dinner. We asked if we could have a quick drink at the bar and the bartender agreed to serve us just one drink only. We were grateful for little mercies, as we had driven a long way to get there and it would be a disappointment, had we been turned away.

Hence, without wasting any time, Llew ordered a glass of red wine, I had a half pint of cider that was very good and very refreshing. Within half an hour, with almost everyone having left the place, we paid up and made our way downstairs. It was still buzzing on the Central Square, but only youngsters were around. Families, children and the elderly had found their way home, a long time ago. Within ten minutes, we were back in the parking lot and in our car. And about half an hour later, with me driving, we arrived back at our mountain cabin.

As we had done every evening, we used wifi to pick up our messages (as there is very little connectivity in the Parks), ate a make-shift dinner of soup and leftover Dornan’s pizza of a couple of days ago, had our showers and then settled down to bed

Amazing Radio Station:

Before I end this installment on our travels, I have to say how much easier and shorter the long drives in the two Parks felt with our radio tuned on to a station that we found purely by chance. This was JTNX-105, a local station that played Songs from the 70s and 80s. As Llew and I knew every single track the DJs spun, we often sang along or exclaimed at how long it had been since we had heard a particular number. It often got us talking about musical artists such as Karen Carpenter or James Taylor and it kept conversation going as well as lightened the miles. Had it not been for that amazing radio station, there is no way those long drives would have been half as pleasurable.

Later, and now that we are back, we are trying to find the radio station; but it clearly has only a very small bandwidth. We are simply unable to pick it up. A true loss to us indeed. This is why we are doubly pleased that we made the most of it while we had easy access to it. If you are ever in this region and love Oldies music, I’d like to suggest that you give this radio station a go. It will add great joy to your exploration.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

From the Grand Tetons National Park Into Yellowstone National Park—A Journey into the Wild with Geysers, Mud Volcanoes, Sulphuric Springs and Wildlife (Finally!) …for Company.

Friday, August 16, 2024:

From the Grand Tetons National Park Into Yellowstone National Park—A Journey into the Wild with Geysers, Mud Volcanoes, Sulphuric Springs and Wildlife (Finally!) …for Company.

Today, we gave wild whoops of triumph and delight! Because today we finally spotted wildlife. But, we had to migrate from the Grand Tetons National Park to Yellowstone National Park to spy them. And when we did, we saw them in droves. Indeed, Yellowstone is the home “where the buffalo roam/ And where the deer and the antelope play!”

But to begin at the beginning. After our rather disappointing drive early in the morning yesterday, we did not think it worth the trouble to awake at dawn to go wildlife-scoping. Instead, we awoke at about 7.00 am, packed lightly (for just one night away from this, our mountain cabin in the Grand Tetons) to get into our car and drive north. Today, we would undertake our Great Migration North!—from the Grand Tetons to Yellowstone. The two parks are, in fact, connected. You drive north, leave one and enter the southern-most tip of the other. It takes a good two hours from where we were staying (near the airport in the Grand Tetons) to enter Yellowstone.

Stopping at the Grand Tetons Southern Entrance Sign for Pictures:

As I realized that we had not taken a picture either together or separately at the National Park’s signpost at the southern end of the Grand Tetons National Park (which includes a lovely glimpse of the mountains in the background), we made a swift detour to the spot before we began our journey to Yellowstone. The angle of the sun was just perfect at this point and we were able to take the desired pictures. It really is worth stopping here if one is an ardent scrap-booker (as I used to be in a previous life—sadly, not anymore!). Pictures taken, we began our drive northwards to Yellowstone.

Admiring Mount Moran:

En route to Yellowstone, we stopped at the Mount Moran Lookout to get a glimpse of the Snake River at this lovely point. The mountain towers above the rest in its range. It remains snow-streaked even in August—a lovely visual contrast against the grey granite of the sun-kissed peaks. Many people stop their vehicles at this point to click pictures and we did too. I tried to be artsy and get some of the mauve wildflowers growing in the area as I composed my pictures. Others walked all the way down to the riverbanks to dip their fingers in the water. There were a couple of kayaks with early-morning energetic people out to enjoy the river as its earliest settlers of the region did.

Cinnamon Rolls at Jackson Lake Lodge:

Driving further north, we arrived at Jackson Lake Lodge and immediately made a beeline for its lobby where its cinnamon rolls are reputed (according to a blog post I had read, in readiness for this trip). They had blueberry cinnamon rolls and we enjoyed them with hot chocolate while seated at the picture window that offered uninhibited views of Mount Moran. This would serve as our breakfast as our 90 minute drive to the entrance of Yellowstone National Park continued.

Arrival at Yellowstone National Park:

At the entrance to Yellowstone National Park, we spied the official signpost. However, as Llew was unprepared for the stop and missed the parking lay-off, he merely pulled up and instructed me to get a picture of myself. I jumped out of the car, ran to the sign (which has a lovely Native American teepee at its side), requested someone to take my picture and jumped back in the car again. I resolved that we should get a picture of the two of us together at the same spot on our way down into the Grand Tetons National Park—which we would do, a few days later. I proudly showed my Seniors Lifetime Card at the entrance for entry into the Park. Otherwise, Daily rates are $20 per vehicle. At the entrance, visitors are provided with a map (really invaluable) and with a copy of a weekly news tabloid that lists highlight happenings of the week in the Park. Armed with these, we drove into the Park. I could not believe that, after years of wanting to visit this Park, we were actually finally there! One more Bucket List item could be ticked off!

En Route to Geyser Country:

It must be noted that it takes at least 90 minutes of a really boring drive (nothing but conifers and the shores of Lewis Lake) before one really spies any action at all. This Park is massive—and I mean, humongous. The Grand Tetons National Park is like a little playground in comparison to the vast thousands of acreage that makes up Yellowstone. I emphasize this because you must be prepared to do a lot of driving—literally hundreds of miles—from one venue to the next—when you are exploring this Park. That was why we had booked accommodation for tonight in Madison, a small sleepy town outside the Park—just so that we would not need to do the hours of driving back to our mountain cabin in the Grand Tetons. And what a good thing too! So, a bit of advice: Treat the two Parks as two different entities and finish exploring one (and pack and leave from one) before moving on to explore the other (and book separate accommodation in the other). You cannot go back and forth between one and the other on the same day—it is simply not advisable at all.

Yes, once in Yellowstone, you will pass a few attractions and we did stop at Kepler Cascades to see a small-ish waterfall. Nothing very impressive at all but it did allow us to stretch our legs and get a short walk-about and it allowed us to spy another lovely piece of wildlife—a peregrine falcon that sat on a tree right at the sight and sang most lustily (who knew that eagles could be so melodious?).

Off to Conquer Geyser Land:

Our main aim today was to get the biggest attraction in Yellowstone right out of the way! The area is well-known for its geo-thermal activity. For some reason, there is massive activity taking place in the bowels of the earth in this area. And ever so often, the bubbling of active liquified gases bursts through the surface of the earth via a variety of outlets that makes this region a paradise for geologists. By the end of the day, we became familiar with a completely new vocabulary that included words such as “mud pools”, “sulphuric springs”, “volcanic rocks”, etc. Not to mention geysers (pronounced ‘gai-zers’)—glorified fountains, really—that are everywhere. However, the Grand Daddy of them all is the one that is referred to as “Old Faithful” and for very good reason! This was the one we were headed out to see first.

Off to See Old Faithful:

Old Faithful is so-called because every ninety minutes, like clockwork, it spouts a grand and impressive fountain out of the earth—a phenomenon that has been going on since time immemorial, day and night, and will continue for who knwos how long? In general, Nature is unpredictable…but Old Faithful can be timed almost to the minute. This is why when you enter the vast parking lot, park your car and make your way to the lovely Visitor Center, you can actually see the timings on a large board, of the next eruptions at Old Faithfal and several other minor geysers in the region.

We decided to catch the eruption at 3.34 pm. This left us enough time to cross the street to the Cafeteria to pick up food. I have to warn you that everything is really expensive within the Park itself. This explains why wise families bring their own picnics with them before they set off for the day. Also, there isn’t much that’s healthy or exciting in the Park cafes. You get the usual stuff: hot dogs, cheeseburgers, ice-cream. No salad that I could see. Anyway, Llew and I opted for the Broccoli Cheddar Soup and large servings of ice-cream (Rocky Road Chocolate and Pralines and Cream) and it would serve us well until dinner-time when we hoped to get a better meal (Alas! That was not to happen…as I will soon reveal).

We walked out of the Café area and found seats at the site of Old Faithful. We had about twenty minutes to go before the eruption and we ate our make-shift meal at the site overlooking the mouth of the spout which was already lined by eager-beaver human beings with cameras at the ready.

Twenty minutes later, as if right on cue, the first rumblings could be heard and spumes of white smoke began to emerge from the spout. Within minutes, it was a full-blown gushing of gallons of water that leapt up high into the sky as countless cameras caught the action—some through video, others through stills. Yes, although one knows exactly what to expect and has seen dozens of pictures of it through the ages, the sight is still spectacular and you are filled with awe at Nature’s possibilities. I know I was! Most of us are speechless or let out occasional gasps—so thrilling is the sight. It lasts for three minutes (or so it felt), but it is a very long three minutes. Enough for one to keep camera aside and simply gaze upon the wondrousness of the sight. And if one wants a repeat performance, well…you only have to wait another 90 minutes to return to the same spot and watch the spectacle all over again. It is truly Nature’s Gift that keeps on giving!

Before we left the site, we took pictures at the signpost that proclaimed that we were at Old Faithful. There were literally thousands of people at the same site at this time and I wondered just how many visitors come to this Park everyday to encounter Nature in her watery glory. It must run to millions! Back at the Visitors’ Center, we asked for advice on how to see the rest of the geysers and were informed that our best bet would be to go back close to Old Faithful and find a little bridge behind it that would take us on a clearly-marked path throughout the area that would enable us to see spouting water in abundance.

And that was what we did. We undertook another hike—but one with a big difference. For the next two hours (or two miles, back and forth), we walked along a beautifully-constructed pathway that took us past most of the main geysers. We saw bubbling pools and we could smell the chemicals that the earth kept spewing out all around us—including loads of pungent sulphur. I have to say that my sulphur allergy was activated merely by breathing in the fumes of this area. Immediately, I began to have hay fever-like symptoms such as a runny, tickling nose and watering eyes. This allergy manifestation stayed with me throughout our days in Yellowstone. It took me a while to out my finger on it and understand why I was suddenly having this cold-like nasal reaction.

So on we trudged past all manner of eruptions. The colors of the earth were mesmerizing. There were the most beautiful tones of ochre, blues, greys, yellows, as they mingled with the earth above. The temperature at these pools and mud holes was very high and one could not get even close to them. One would surely get burned if one tried to touch these emerging fluids. Each of the main eruptions had names such as Castle Geyser and Grand Geyser and one would occasionally catch its next eruption—but these were very minor compared to the grandeur of Old Faithful. We simply took pictures of a few of them and walked on. Our aim was to get to the very end where a spouting hole called ‘Morning Glory’ is a huge highlight.

An hour later, we reached Morning Glory. It used to be much larger than it is today, but it is still quite impressive in its current guise. I believe it is so-called because it resembles a large, colorful flower—the Morning Glory. It is ringed in vivid colors such as red, orange, yellow and green. A lot of pictures are taken at this spot, but seriously, no camera can actually do it justice.

Having reached the end of the marked walkway, we made our return hike to the Visitors’ Center on the opposite side as the pathway forms a loop—another hour of walking past a different variety of geysers. Fortunately, the weather was really good and the hiking did not seem strenuous in the slightest. You can stop as often or as little as you like, depending on how much time you have at hand.

Visiting Yellowstone Lodge:

Just before we returned to our car to continue our exploration of the Park, we followed the instructions in our Guidebook and made a swift detour at Yellowstone Lodge. Like the lodges in the Grand Tetons National Park, this is a vast structure with a spacious lobby clad in wood and stone. There is a stone fireplace and a grand clock that tolls the hour. This place provides accommodation, of course—so it is like a grand five-star hotel. But booking must be done at least a year in advance, if one wishes to stay here (not inexpensive, but I would imagine, a handsome experience). We rested our feet on one of the side sofas in this space and took in its soaring architectural achievement in the glorious timbered ceiling, before we left and made our way back to the Visitors Center to use the restroom and before getting into our car.

Heading Northwest Towards Madison:

This entire area is known as the Geyser Basin and it is divided into the Upper Geyser, Middle Geyser and Lower Geyser Region. After a while, you will feel as if you have seen them all. There is variety in the size, shape, color and activity of each of these geysers, but stopping at all of them takes up a lot of time. By this time, it was about 5.00 pm. and we decided to follow the map and drive north towards our accommodation for the night in the town of Madison. We stopped en route at Firehole Falls, a short cascade, where we took a picture. These drives are equally stirring as the Lookout points they take you past granite canyons that tower ahead of you, thick forests fragrant with pine and eucalyptus and several minor waterfalls.

Finally---Some Wildlife Sightings:

It was at this point that we received our first wildlife sighting of the day: a single bison chewing the cud in the shade. We saw a line of cars ahead of us and realized immediately that someone had sighted an animal. As is customary, we too joined the line, then stepped out of our car, to catch a glimpse of the massive beast in a clearing, well hidden by a thick grove of trees. It was impressive because it was so close to us, although seemingly oblivious to our presence. This was not much of a sighting, but it would be a good start.

Just a half hour later, as we were driving out of the Park, we passed by a river and, seeing other cards parked ahead of us, we too stopped. This time we saw a whole herd of elk—from larger members to does—about . They were grazing calmly very close to the road and allowed for wonderful photo ops. Luckily for us, we were very close to the river and as the elk made their way to the water, first to drink and then to cross it, we had a chance to take really wonderful video and still shots of them. It was a truly uplifting experience after days of not having seen any animals at all.

Driving to our Hotel in Madison, Montana:

Once you leave the precincts of the Park behind, it is a very long drive westwards—almost two hours—to get to the little town of Madison, where we had booked accommodation for the night in Traveler’s Lodge. This very modest motel, located outside the Park and in the state of Montana, would suit our needs for a quick single night of showers and rest before we set out again. We checked in and set out to find dinner. But, as we were tired and didn’t want an elaborate sit-down meal, we traversed the town and its little grid of side streets on foot before coming to the conclusion that we were best off picking up sandwiches from a local supermarket and eating them in our room.

And that’s what we did. We found a deli-grocery open and we chose roast beef and ham and cheese sandwiches which we washed down with a cold Sprite once we returned to our rooms. Showers and a quick use of the wifi later, to pick up our messages, and we were off into Dreamland after what had been a really eventful day.

Until tomorrow, cheerio.

In Grand Tetons National Park: Enjoying the Thrills of the 42-Mile Loop

Thursday, August 15, 2024

In Grand Tetons National Park: Enjoying the Thrills of the 42-Mile Loop

We made the most of our first full day in Grand Tetons National Park. Determined to see wildlife today, we set our alarms to wake up at 6.00 am with the idea of getting out on the road early. By 6.30 am, we were in our car and driving off towards Antelope Flats where, apparently, bison and elk can be seen. It was already very bright in the mountains and there were some cars on the road. We entered the Park at Moose Junction and drove north. Alas, we did not see very much and although I scoured the road, there was not a single sighting to be had.

Driving the 42-Mile Loop in Grand Tetons National Park:

I have to say that although we did not see any wildlife up to this point, the drives were just heavenly. There is nothing more exhilarating than to be in the warm embrace of Nature, surrounded by mountains, some still snow-streaked, as they stand solid and stable, looking down gently upon the rest of the world. The cloudscapes were always stunning as they were a constantly changing panorama on offer. Eventually, after driving several miles—and stopping frequently to take in the beautiful vistas or to take photographs--we arrived at Jackson Lake in the north. Here, thick fog flooded the lake making visibility very poor. As a result, we did not get good pictures, but we enjoyed the mist swirling all around us, despite the fact that it was chilly. We were very warmed dressed indeed and were far from uncomfortable as both of us had carried our Uniqlo down jackets.

As we were really close to it, we decided to drive a little further north to arrive at Jackson Lake Lodge. These lodges are interesting architectural aspects of the US National Parks—we had seen and visited them in the Canadian Rockies too. Meant to provide luxury accommodation to the Park’s earliest visitors, these lodges (made primarily from local woods), have retained their late 19th century-early 20th century charm and appeal. They are beautifully maintained and still remain high-end hotels that need to be booked at least a year in advance (if not longer). Ideally located to offer the most stunning vistas of mountains and woods, they usually have large public lobbies where one can stop for a coffee and a snack, even if one is not resident in them.

We did just that. After parking our car, we entered Jackson Lake Lodge and, in the lobby, sat down to enjoy the view of the Tetons from the large picture window that flooded the place with light, with warming hot chocolate and croissants in our hand. This light breakfast would see us through the morning as we had a special lunch in store at yet another lodge.

Breakfast stop done, we continued our 42-Mile Drive. The Park has a clearly-marked loop that makes it very easy to drive around. If one does not stop anywhere, it can be circled in under two hours. But, of course, such a plan of action makes little sense as it is the vistas available at every need that need to be stopped and admired.

Our next aim was to get to the Roman Catholic Chapel of the Transfiguration where we needed to say a special prayer for two friends who had passed away within a week of each other. One of them had died in Canada just yesterday while another had expired a week ago in Austria. We found the Chapel in a secluded part of the Park where we saw one couple leave just as we entered. It is a beautiful wooden structure, more like a small cottage than a chapel. But inside, it is very serene and it made the perfect venue in which to remember our friends with affection and pray for the repose of their souls. Situated on the banks of vast Jackson Lake, the Chapel and its surroundings offer the perfect backdrop for silent contemplation of Nature or indeed for silent prayer.

Boating on Jenny Lake:

Leaving the Chapel behind us, we continued our 42-Mile Drive. We were headed next to Jenny Lake, the most popular site in the Park. Guidebooks tell us to arrive there early to beat the rush for the Jenny Lake Boat that takes visitors across the Lake to the other side where there are wonderful attractions at the end of another hike: Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point.

After leaving the car park (and we were truly lucky to find parking really close as one car was just leaving), the stroll to the boat jetty was just lovely. There were wildflowers everywhere and they made bold dashes of color against the grey granite of the mountains that soared around us. We joined the line to obtain our tickets (it was a 20 minute wait) before we boarded the boat to get ourselves to the opposite bank. Once there, we found the pathway clearly signposted and we joined it with an exhilarating feeling of being out in the open air and breathing its therapeutic energy. The hike itself was easier than the one we did yesterday at Taggart Lake, but it did also involve some climbing over gentle slopes and across rushing streams. In total, it was about two miles back and forth. Sadly, we did not spy any wildlife at all and had begun to despair of ever seeing anything.

In about 30 minutes, we arrived at Hidden Falls, a popular site where a lot of people posed for pictures against the gushing cascade of foam behind them. We joined the queue for pictures and when those were done, we hurried off. We had to take a call about continuing our hike—another half an hour--to Inspiration Point. But then we decided against it as we did not want to be late for our lunch appointment. Our friend Virginia had made a reservation for us at 12.30pm at Jenny Lake Lodge but we clearly would be late for it. On the boat back, I called the Lodge and postponed our reservation to 1.15 pm—which was easily done. This would give us ample time to walk back to the parking lot and then drive to Jenny Lake Lodge. We took many pictures of the two of us on the boat as this was the only boating we would do while in the Parks and the majesty of the mountains behind us was just irresistible.

Lunch at Jenny Lake Lodge:

Jenny Lake Lodge is a smaller, cozier version of Jackson Lake Lodge (where we’d picked up hot chocolate in the morning). There is a large lobby, all clad in wood paneling and filled with paintings and photographs of the mountains. We found the entrance to the restaurant very easily and announced our arrival before we were led to a table for two right beside a massive picture window that offered us our own private magnificent view of the mountains just outside. It was simply spectacular!

A quick review of the menu led us to experiment with unusual meats that we do not often get to taste in the outside world: we settled for Bison chilli with crackers for a starter which led us on to Elk Burgers served with a side Caesar Salad. The Elk Burgers were particularly delicious as they came with a large and very thick slice of bacon that lent saltiness and juiciness to the meal. Glasses of lager were the perfect accompaniment to our meal and we enjoyed it fully. Service was attentive and impeccable and we enjoyed looking at other visitors as they lunched quietly in pairs or at more active families that had young children with them. Overall, our meal was a lovely break in our wanderings in the Park and the perfect place to use posh restrooms and get a sense of what life was like for early visitors to the Park. Here too, accommodation is offered but must be booked at least a year in advance.

Our 42-Mile Loop Drive Continues—Visit to the National Museum of Wildlife:

Our meanderings in the Park continued after lunch as we drove south towards the Park entrance to arrive at the National Museum of Wild Life Art. Virginia had left passes for us on her kitchen counter and we had carried them in to get free entry. Otherwise, entry is $20 per head.

The museum is located in a really neat place. You drive up a slope and arrive on a hill that allows you to look down below at the plains of Antelope Flats. If you are lucky, you will spy wildlife here, but there was nothing for us to see, except the wonderfully sculpted wildlife that dotted the entrance area making for a really lovely sculpture garden. This is also beautifully landscaped with summer flowers at every turn bringing a touch of color to the place.

Inside, we picked up route maps, asked for highlights that we should not miss and were informed that every canvas was a masterpiece. I found this hard to believe until we were actually inside and I was gazing upon the quality of the artwork which was, in fat, just stunning. Almost every name was recognizable—from works by Georgia O’Keefe and Alfred Bierstadt to Edward Landseer, Auguste Rodin and Henri Rousseau. Since the museum displays depictions exclusively of wildlife, there is all manner of animal and bird to be seen—from solo depictions of a stunning wolf or a gigantic moose to mass migrations of bison running across the plains to herds of antelope fording a stream. It was simply amazing. We were, in particular, introduced to the work of a local artist called Carl Runius who did endless depictions of the Park and its wildlife. After spending more than two hours in the place, we were tired on our feet and, having covered it all, decided to leave. We were really happy we had made the time for this Art Break in the Park—what joy to see real-life Nature around us and then to view its representations in paintings and sculpture in the museum.

The famous Mormon Cabins:

Our next stop was at the famous Mormon Cabins, not too far away. These preserved cabins represent the lodgings of the earliest Mormon settlers of the region who had braved harsh travel conditions to arrive in Wyoming on their journey westwards. They had settled eventually in the neighboring state of Utah where, in Salt Lake City, they created their global headquarters—a place that has their main administrative buildings today. These little Mormon cabins are basic—just wooden structures sheltered by the mountains behind them, surrounded by wildflowers. They are, apparently, one of the most photographed sights in the park and they do attract a load of visitors. We walked right up to them to get the best pictures possible from every angle. One cannot go inside them as they are still being refurbished, but the exterior is very evocative of the hardships associated with family life in the 19th century.

Viewing the Snake River Outlook:

From this point on, we drove north to the Snake River Outlook. Our aim was to shoot a modern-day version of the iconic black and white photograph of the bend in the river that was shot by Ansel Adams, the famous American photographer, in 1927. It was this photograph that had brough the Grand Tetons National Park to the attention of the rest of the world. Of course, Adams had hoisted himself up on a crane in order to skim above the coniferous trees to arrive at the shot. A copy of this picture is on display at the Jenny Lake Lodge Visitors Center and I had taken a picture of it. It was hard to get a good shot ourselves but I was not unhappy with the one we took at this renowned spot where most people stop to take a picture.

Off to Teton Village for A Spot of Night Life:

By this point, we were fast losing light and we decided to end our day by driving to Teton Village—although we were not sure exactly what to expect there. Was it a shopping mall? Was it an area in which to eat a meal? We were unsure. We did know that there was a chair lift (or gondola) that took visitors to the top of the mountains to offer grand panoramic views of the plains below—but it was very likely that the gondola would have stopped operation by the time we got there.

We had the most horrendous traffic en route to Teton Village. In fact, Llew was driving and requested me to do the drive on the way back as he is simply insecure now about driving in the dark. While in the car, I realized that it was my friend, Delyse’s birthday, and so I called her in Connecticut, using the phone Chriselle had given us. It was good to hear her voice as we inched closer in bumper-to-bumper traffic along a narrow country road.

Eventually, we did get to Teton Village. It had been raining hard all day in the area and the place was very wet indeed. The gondola was not working and the shops that comprise the main mall area were well and truly closed by the time we arrived there. Luckily for us, ‘The Mangy Moose’, a pub with a good restaurant, was open and was hopping. We settled down at a table there, hoping just to have a quick drink but to skip dinner as we really did not want to be driving back in the pitch darkness. Two tall glasses of beer later and while being entertained with live music that we really enjoyed, we made our way back to our car. The rain had stopped, fortunately, and there was a bit of twilight to guide us out of the area and back on the main road. It took us less time (as there was less traffic) to get back—about 45 minutes. But we were so glad to get back to our home for the night.

Dinner was a make-shift meal of chicken soup and a steak sandwich during which time we checked our email and whatsapp messages, before we had hot showers and went straight to bed. We had covered so much ground in the Park and although we had seen no wildlife at all, those spots which are not to be missed, were well and truly seen by us. It had been a very fruitful day and we were very pleased to have done almost every item on our agenda.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

At Jackson Hole, Wyoming: The Start of an Incredible Time in the Grand Tetons

Wednesday, August 14, 2024

At Jackson Hole, Wyoming: The Start of an Incredible Time in the Grand Tetons

Dawn had just broken over ‘Avalanche Ranch’ where Llew and I awoke to begin our five-hour long drive to Jackson Hole, Wyoming—the next stop on our Great American Driving Adventure. Sweet Kathy actually came up to our cottage to say Goodbye to us and wish us well for our journey. The horses were in their paddocks, neighing softly in the misty morning as we waved ‘Avalanche Ranch’ farewell and set off, with Llew behind the wheel. The town of Oakland in Kamas County was also still fast asleep when we drove through it at 6.30 am. We used our trusted Waze app to find our way to our next destination: our accommodation would be the mountain ‘cabin’ of our Fairfield, Connecticut, friends, the Deans—Virginia and Jimmy—who had kindly left us the key to enable us to use their very special home.

Journey to Wyoming:

The drive through Utah and into Wyoming was as rugged as might be expected. We curved around the many bends of the Wasach Mountains even before daylight broke. It was incredibly serene—so quiet, so peaceful, so other-worldly. At many times during our drive, the highway ahead and behind us was empty—completely devoid of other traffic. It was a great opportunity for me to test my driving chops behind the wheel and to build up confidence in a strange car. Indeed, by the end of the trip, I was sharing the driving quite confidently indeed and giving Llew the breaks he needed to spend time surfing the web on his phone.

We stopped just once along the way to fill gas and use rest room facilities at a local gas station as we passed through really sleepy villages that Time forgot. As one stage, while still in the mountains, we had dreadful driving conditions (Llew handled those segments). Low-hanging clouds on the U-turn bends made us drive right through thick fog—sometimes in real pea-soupers! The skies, however, were simply stunning—shades of blue-grey in thick, foamy pillows made for some really arresting photographs. Somehow, however, while trying hard to enjoy the journey and not just the destination, we arrived at the outskirts of Jackson, the principal city in the Grand Tetons National Park where we would spend the next four nights.

Our First Impressions of Jackson, Wyoming:

For the confused, let me explain. Jackson is the principal city in this part of Wyoming. Jackson Hole is the entire region. So, when you arrive in the city of Jackson, you also arrive in the region of Jackson Hole (which encompasses the entire National Park). It had taken us about five hours to get from Utah to Jackson—five hours of sometimes strenuous driving. When we did arrive on the outskirts of the city of Jackson, we passed by any number of fast food chains—from Wendy’s and Burger King to Denny’s and Taco Bell. We also began to notice the crowds as the region is assailed by tourists in August—high summer. We drove further into the town following signs for the City Center. And within a few minutes, we arrived at the Central Square Park which is the main hub of Jackson.

Exploring Jackson’s Central Square Park:

Jackson’s Central Square Park offered parking facilities around the periphery of the park. We felt lucky to find ourselves a spot as it was close to lunch-time (about 1.00 pm) and the town was heaving. People were out and about as they looked for a suitable eatery. We were very happy to stretch our legs and decided to walk around the four sides of the Square.

Of course, the most striking element of the Park are its four corners that are marked by giant gateways made of threaded deer antlers. I am not sure if these are artificial or real—I’m guessing they are artificial as they are all of a uniform color. At any rate, they provide popular photo ops and people stood beneath them to take photos. Following their lead, Llew and I requested passers-by to take our pictures too. That done, we began our walk about the Park’s many shops.

We were quite taken by the high-end quality of the merchandise available on the Square. There is nothing shabby chic about this place—indeed, it is super classy. We found loads of interior design stores that sold the kind of domestic accoutrements that had made up the Mountain Style aesthetic that we had so loved on Kathy’s ranch: striped kilim rugs and Navajo--style blankets, Native American pottery in typical designs, wooden furniture in rustic styles, lamps fashioned out of metal farm equipment and implements—you get the idea. It was all quite lovely indeed!

And then there were the upscale art galleries that were simply bursting with the most stunning art works: paintings and sculpture that stole my heart away. Of course, the theme of all these works were Mountains and Nature. Lakes, sunrises, sunsets, woods, trees, landscapes, seascapes and cloudscapes. There were so many interpretations of animals and birds: bears, antelopes, wolves, moose, elk…as well as smaller animals such as hares and squirrels, dogs and mountain lions. The quality of the work was superior—indeed so many were of museum quality and I was astounded that they were on sale (at very hefty prices, of course). For those of us with shallow pockets, it is a real pleasure to venture inside these art galleries to merely admire the talent of so many artists and to admire the curators and marketers of their work that bring it into the homes of the public.

When we had explored some more of the shops and found the usual souvenirs—T-shirts, magnets, shot glasses, keychains, etc. we made sure we bought our own magnet—good job we did…as it would be only on the last day that we would return to Jackson again—so much did we enjoy staying within the precincts of the Park itself.

A long stroll around the area then led us back to our car where we had a nasty shock. Someone had either keyed our car or had parked too close to it and then damaged it when opening their door. We would never know, of course, as they did not leave their insurance information for us. We were annoyed that something like this had happened so early in our travels. Thankfully, we had purchased full damage insurance when renting our car and knew that these kinds of minor dents and dings were covered. Still, it dampened our vacation spirits to have to deal with something like this.

Off to Find Our Accommodation:

With our exploration of Jackson complete, Llew got behind the wheel again so that we could begin our attempt at finding our accommodation for the next few nights. We were very grateful to our friends, Virginia and Jimmy Dean, who were supposed to have been in Jackson Hole during our stay to play hosts and guides. However, unavoidable circumstances had made of them return to their principal home in Fairfield, Connecticut, where we had first met them and become friends. Having committed themselves to hosting us, however, they insisted that we should use their home and Virginia left full instructions (which we found when we entered the place, a good half hour later).

En route to finding our friends’ home, we entered Grand Tetons National Park. There is a lovely sign on the south side of the park that my guidebook (which Chriselle had bought for our use) had informed me was a great spot at which to pose for a picture as it included a shot of the Grand Teton Mountains. We did not stop at this point to pose for a picture, as we did want to find our cabin quickly. However, we would take our picture at this point in the next couple of days.

The Mountain Cabin we would occupy, for the next few days, was built (I’m guessing from the décor) in the late 60s-early 70’s. Cabin is a misnomer as it is, in fact, a sprawling home with huge square footage and many rooms, with nooks and crannies all over. It is a double storey home that contains multiple bedrooms on two levels, one of which (on the main floor) was allocated for our use. As soon as we unloaded our baggage, we entered our room and found clean linens, towels, etc. and everything we could possibly need in the ensuite bathroom. Next door, in an annexe, were two young men—possibly lodgers—but we did not see much of them at all as we were out all day. The home is crammed with furniture and all the detritus of domestic items that are accumulated over fifty or sixty years of occupancy. Sadly, we would not have much of a chance to enjoy the house as we were out exploring the park all day or looking for wild life. But it felt good to have such a luxurious place to come home to at the end of each day. The house included a large indoor swimming pool (which was not in operation), two decks that allowed stunning views of the mountains and a fully-equipped kitchen. We would be very comfortable in this space for the next few nights.

We created lunch for ourselves (as instructed by Virginia) from ingredients we found in the fridge—we shared a Club Sandwich (that we heated in the microwave) and some Chicken Soup from a Campbel’s tin of concentrated soup that I found in the pantry. Then, with Virginia on the phone with us, we keyed in the wifi password and were online. There was no movement at all around us in the gardens surrounding the home—which even had its own pond. Kathy, our friend in Utah, (who is also a good friend of Virginia) had informed us that on one of her stays in this house, she had seen a moose thread its way through the pond. It was my dearest wish to see a moose on this trip and I kept my eyes peeled for one. Alas, I would leave the national parks without seeing a single moose. But there were a large number of other wildlife sightings to keep me happy.

An Excursion to Taggart Lake:

Left to our own devices and with the time almost hitting 2.30 pm, we decided not to waste daylight but to go out in search of a hiking trail as we were both eager to stretch our feet.

Using our guidebook and the detailed map which Virginia had thoughtfully kept handy for us on her kitchen counter together with a pair of binoculars, a tub of delicious trail mix and instructions to help ourselves to any of the items in her adjoining pantry (we would have enough meals for the next few days), we set out. Taggart Lake (which was really short drive from our cabin) seemed like a good place at which to start exploring the Park.

In following the map to get to Taggart Lake, we officially entered the Park. At this point, I decided to purchase the Annual Seniors National Parks membership to which I am now entitled (Llew had obtained his card earlier on a trip to another National Park, a few years ago). I paid $80 for my card (which I obtained upon production of my passport) and felt really grateful to have it for free entry for myself and anyone accompanying me into any of the US National Parks anywhere in the country. Each time you enter the Park, you are expected to show your card.

When this mission was accomplished, we continued following signs and the map to the parking lot of Taggart Lake. After parking, we set out on foot to hike through the forest pathways that were clearly sign-posted and that would lead us to hidden Taggart Lake. Everywhere we walked, I kept my eyes peeled for wildlife. But, unfortunately, we were not blessed with any sightings—not even a bird was in sight. I guess we were far too late in the day to see any animals…but we resolved to wake up really early and go out in search of them tomorrow.

The Taggart Lake hike was deeply challenging. We walked for three and a half hours (from 3.00pm until 6.30 pm), a distance of five miles. But as most of the hike involved climbing up mountainous paths, it was very slow going. For much of the hike, we climbed up steadily. I had to stop frequently to rest as the air at these higher elevations is much more rarified than I am used to. This makes breathing more challenging and one’s stamina definitely takes a beating. Often, I wished I had climbing poles like so many of the hikers we passed who were far better equipped than we were. But the views at every turn were just lovely. Coniferous trees were everywhere. The mountains were never very far from our sight and often we felt as if we could reach out and touch them.

About two hours into our hike, we began to see our first glimpses of Taggart Lake. This was also the point at which we stopped ascending and began our descent. We would eventually arrive at the shores of the lake, as the sun dropped low on the horizon. Its slanting rays were uplifting after our long and very tiring climb. At the lake shore, we found a young man fly-fishing wearing nothing as he stood chest deep in the icy water. His friends on the shore had also just taken a dip and we marveled at their resistance. All we did was trail our fingers in the lake as we posed for photographs. It was rewarding to find the mountain peaks reflected in the still waters and we took many pictures.

About an hour later, past some rushing streams that made pretty eddies, we arrived again at our parking lot. We had consumed a large amount of water during our climb and we were ready for some snacks before we actually went out in search of dinner. The first of our hikes had been deeply fulfilling as we had seen almost everything that the Park could offer (except for wildlife): mountains, lakes, deeply wooded pathways, rushing streams, charming cascades and unspoiled vistas of Nature.

Dinner at ‘Dornan’s’:

As every guidebook and all the blogs I had read while planning our itinerary had proclaimed the wisdom of eating at least once at ‘Dornan’s’, a Jackson Hole institution, we decided to go there and get that item off our To-Do List. ‘Dornan’s’ is clearly marked and we followed signs to get there. The Dornan enterprise comprises several low-slung buildings that include an upscale restaurant for fine dining, a pizzeria—the most popular in the Park—a grocery store (for those who camp in the park and need provisions) and a gift store. Virginia had recommended that we find a spot on the upper level of the restaurant so that we could enjoy the sunset behind the mountains from this vantage point. However, the sky was fully overcast with thick cloud cover today and we knew we would not have a picture-perfect sunset. Also, since it was really chilly as the sun sank lower, we decided to leave the upper deck and get down to the main pizzeria which was very crowded as most people tucked into vast salads and substantial pizzas. We were really lucky to find a table downstairs and we followed the drill to order our dinner, pay for it and then wait for it to be delivered at our table.

We decided to try one of ‘Dornan’s’ famous pizzas and we chose a Chicken, Tomato and Spinach one that was large and much too filling for just the two of us. We drank Cokes with our pizza and then decided to take half of it home. It would provide us with a substantial breakfast, the next day. All around us, people were chattering happily at the end of what had been a fun day for them. There is a huge bar at one end where people were ordering drinks but ‘Dornan’s’ is definitely a casual family eatery and there were many children of all ages plus teenagers and their parents in the venue. It made for good people-watching as we munched.

Not too long after (as we’d had a really early start to our day), we decided to return to our mountain home. We found it quite easily as we soon got the hang of the layout of the Park. After checking our email and whatsapp notices, we had our showers and got ready for bed at the end of what had been a mixed sort of day. The difficult driving conditions, the damage to our car and the lack of wildlife had made for a few disappointments. But being surrounded by the presence of the mountains did a lot to lift our spirits and salvage our day.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

Home on the Range…and Tours of Park City and Sundance, Utah

Tuesday, August 13, 2024 Home on the Range…and Tours of Park City and Sundance, Utah

We woke up on ‘Avalanche Range’ to the realization that we were actually on a horse farm somewhere in the wilds of Utah. There was an absolute stillness in the air and not a single sound could be heard—not even the distant warble of a songbird. I tippy-toed my way through the house and was immediately enchanted by it. Beautifully and tastefully decorated (as if by a professional designer), the aesthetic was distinctly ‘Mountain Style”. There were thick kilim rugs everywhere—on the floor, on the walls, on the couches. Paintings, all over the house, reflected local landscapes: mountains, prairie, horse farms, autumnal fields—the inspiration was Nature. Bridles and horseshoes hung in strategic places, coffee table books about Utah and its environs were in bookcases, loads of sculptural pieces depicting horses, rabbits, dogs, were scattered everywhere. There were dried flower arrangements in rustic vases, loads of cushions in Navajo stripes—you get the idea. We were fully in our element in Kathy’s beautiful cottage.

When Llew awoke, I rustled up some breakfast for the two of us, having taken instruction from Kathy to help ourselves to anything in the fridge or freezer. I found loaves of multi-grain bread, butter, orange marmalade, strawberry jam and peanut butter. It made for a very joyous breakfast indeed as the farmland surrounding us went on with its early morning routine. There were horses to be watered and fed, dogs to be let out, etc.

A half hour later, I was at work—yes, I was at a zoom meeting with a student in Bahrain and a supervisor in Bombay as I helped her apply for US undergrad admission and to shape her Common Ap essay. The session lasted an hour, after which Kathy came to the deck of our cottage to greet us again, welcome us properly to her charming homestead and invite us to take a walk around the property. Meanwhile, during my tutorial session, Llew stayed out on the deck outside, keeping himself amused with a large number of dogs in varied sizes and breeds who came up to say Hello and play ‘Fetch the Stick’ with him. Llew had the best time later as he introduced me to his new furred friends—Buttons, Sweet Pea, Red, etc. They were just lovely.

A Walk Around Avalanche Ranch and Meeting Kathy’s Horses:

A few minutes later, we were following Kathy out to the vast training enclosure where she introduced us to Linsey, her trainer, seated atop a magnificent horse called Finn, and to a bunch of her friends who lived in nearby Park City. They had brought their grandkids over to the Ranch for riding lessons which they’d been taking since they could walk. We were introduced to the horses—in addition to Finn, there was Cowboy. I discovered that they are the gentlest animals, friendly and intelligent and eager to interact with human beings. Although it has been a long time since I have ridden a horse (the last time was in Matheran, about five years ago), I did wish I could. When their indoors lesson was complete, Linsey suggested a walk around the ranch so that the children could get the feel of riding in varied terrain.

It was a good idea. While they were on horseback, the adults (all of us—a crocodile of about six folks) followed behind them. It was a gorgeous day, the sun shining benignly upon us. We were grateful for our jackets and scarves as the wind whipped playfully around us. As we walked deeper into the property, past cottages, we were out in the open country, ringed by the Wasach Mountains, misty in the distance. We trooped on towards a stream at the far end of the property and had the pleasure of watching the horses ford the stream while we stood on a wooden bridge that spanned it. Really…it could not have been more delightfully rural. For us, Urbanites, this was a rare experience and one that warmed the cockles of our hearts. What an exciting way to start our tour of North America, I thought. What a unique insight into the lifestyle of people who live by the land and who have never known an office. When our hour-long walk was done, we’d had our own exercise for the day and had encountered the outdoors in ways we had never dreamed of or expected.

A Tour of Park City, Utah:

Only a little while later, Kathy came back to the deck of our cottage (she lived in her own larger ranch house, just a few meters from us) where we gave her the gift we had carried for her from India—a silk shawl that could also be worn as a scarf. She loved it, especially as she told us that she often goes to musical concerts in Park City. Talking of which, she suggested we get ready for some sightseeing. We were thrilled to place ourselves in her hands as dressed to meet her at her car. Our first stop would be Park City, Kathy’s recommendation as a place from which we would receive a good idea of the historical development of the region.

It was while Kathy was behind the wheel driving us to Park City, Utah, that I realized what a feat Llew had accomplished, the previous night, as he drove us to the ranch in the darkness, with mist and rain making visibility so poor and curving, hairpin bends around each mountain. Indeed, it was incredible that we had reached our destination safely and I gave thanks to the Lord for bringing us to our home without event or accident.

Park City is one of those lovely, quaint towns that mushroomed in the mid-19th century, as a result of the Western expansion of the American frontier and the search for precious metals such as silver and gold. Although very little gold was found in the Utah Mountains, the metal that made the town and its people rich was silver. Indeed, several silver mines are still in operation in the area. At any rate, the discovery of silver led to the development of a frontier township, similar to the many that sprouted throughout the 1800s in the West. In Park City, the atmosphere has been beautifully preserved so as to make it a compelling tourist attraction. In Kathy’s hands, we felt we had the services of a local guide.

Kathy parked her car on Main Street which is really the heart of the town. Buildings--well preserved and maintained--line both sides of the street. There are stores, restaurants, office buildings, even a high school—all of which retain their old-world charm by conforming to an architectural style that remains frozen in time. The result is a very pretty combination of natural and man-made structures that charm at every turn. We walked along Main Steet taking in its wares and its hanging baskets and window boxes spilling over with summer blooms.

In the Park City Museum:

At Kathy’s suggestion, we visited Park City Museum, a small but very interesting venue on Main Street, where relics from the past are superbly displayed to give the visitor a composite idea of the town and its growth from a sleepy mining settlement that attracted prospectors to the tourist center it is today. We were able to take a stimulated ride on a train which allowed us to pretend that we were prospectors making our way on the tracks Westward to find silver and gold. In another section, we marveled at the stagecoaches that had traversed this grand continent carrying passengers and cargo—think Wells Fargo and its flourishing business in 19th century North America. Sections on silver mining—the manner in which hundreds of men were taken in dangerous elevators into the bowels of the earth to shovel rocks in order to find silver ore--were fascinating. There was convincing statistics on the numbers that died in the Silver and Gold Rush in Kamas County alone. A thriving town calls for a newspaper and there was a section on the dailies that were then produced to keep townsfolks abreast of life in the outside world. And since silver mining spelled greed and lawlessness, there was a jail (a real one)—underground, where outlaws were held until they were dealt with. There was also a reproduction of a grocery store from which basic provisions could be purchased to feed town and farming families and, of course, the ubiquitous saloon in which men drank their sorrows away or celebrated great finds over endless rounds of whisky. Long years spent in the wilderness prospecting inevitably led to side businesses such as gun-slinging and prostitution and accounts of the red light district of the town were also on display. There were several levels to this very impressive museum and I was so glad we stopped there as it gave us such a graphic idea of what life was like in these American frontier towns when the country was still very young and trying to carve out its own identity.

Lunch at ‘Annexe Burger’:

By this point, we were hungry and Kathy suggested we stop for lunch. The place she had in mind for us was about to close (as it was already close to 3 pm), but we found tables on the top deck of a restaurant called ‘Annexe Burger’ on Main Street which touted itself as serving authentic buffalo (bison) burgers. Of course, I had to taste them again (we’d had these, a few years ago, in the Canadian Rockies) and so we settled down to enjoy a variety of three types of burger: a bacon burger, a cheddar cheese burger and a blue cheese burger—all served with the crispiest onion rings and a ranch dressing. We also ordered a Taco Salad that was loaded with black beans, corn, quinoa as well as tomatoes, cucumbers and avocado—as well as a piquant salsa. It was a lovey meal that we enjoyed as we overlooked the trolley that made its way up and down Main Street in another attempt at reproducing the ambience of a bygone era. Kathy was wonderful company as she recounted for us so many anecdotes about growing up with horses, entering riding competitions, etc. This life was a far cry from the one she later knew in New York City and it is not surprising that she opted eventually to re-settle in this area to which she had given her heart.

Off to the Sundance Resort:

Lunch done, we strolled back to our car. As we walked there, Kathy informed us that Park City came into its own once a year in the Fall during the famous Sundance Film Festival, an occurrence that has attained international fame as a place to showcase the work of independent film-makers. It was initiated by a group of film-lovers but reached heights of popularity after it received the patronage of the renowned actor, Robert Redford, who made the area his home on several acres of sprawling acreage in the mountains. Kathy pointed out the well-known Egyptian Cinema which is where most of the major film screenings take place, during the festival. I stopped to take a peek inside, but it was closed. Films are still screened in this venue which is so-called because its design and décor are based on motifs from ancient Egypt—pharaohs, sarcophagi, hieroglyphics, etc.

Naturally, then it made sense for us to go to the ‘Sundance Resort’ which was an investment by Redford to bring visibility to the area and to attract folks to the place outside of the festival. Kathy drove us about twenty minutes’ away, past the little town of Provo, to arrive at an idyllic locale where Nature and man’s vision coalesced beautifully. Unfortunately, there was a lot of construction everywhere which disturbed our own understanding of the concept.

We soon came to understand that Redford’s idea of a resort was one in which accommodation would be available to visitors who wished to enjoy the Wasach Mountains and Mount Timpanogos, in particular, as she looks down benevolently upon the estate. Geared mainly to the artsy and the creative, the place has a lovely art gallery where we were treated to wonderful depictions of the mountains and surrounding woods in varied artistic interpretations. There is a private screening room for producers and directors who wish to showcase their work before it is bought and distributed. There is a classy restaurant which has a massive tree growing right inside it. There are provision stores and unique gift shops and a vast reception hall for people who wish to have a ‘destination wedding’ in this location. All of these structures were built around babbling brooks and a rushing river that had its source up in the mountains that towered around us. Yes, Sundance is glorious and a fine place in which to spend a few luxurious days, far from the madding crowd. We took it all in, grateful to Kathy, our friend and guide, who knew the place like the back of her hand.

Dinner at ‘Avalanche Ranch’:

By this time, twilight had fallen and as we had seen the main attractions that the region offered, Kathy suggested we drive back to her ranch for dinner. In fact, she wanted to cook dinner for us—so although we offered to take her out, she insisted we eat at the ranch.

To our good luck, it started raining as soon as we entered the car. This was good for us, of course, as we stayed dry…but it did make for challenging driving conditions for Kathy who was undeterred by a little dampness. She found her way around the U-turn bends of the mountains like an absolute pro and, before long, we were at our cottage on the ranch thinking about how hard it would be to leave this pastoral idyll tomorrow as our Great Road Trip continued.

About an hour later, Kathy called us to her cottage as dinner was ready. Her home turned out to be a larger and much more crammed version of the cottage we were occupying: the aesthetic was identical (Mountain Style) with comfy couches, tables, impressive bookcases filled with every conceivable kind of book (as Kathy is a voracious reader), loads of china and ceramics in the kitchen and a general warmth that defies description.

We sat down then to enjoy Kathy’s wonderfully rustled up pasta dinner: there was Linguine with Crabmeat, Arugula, Lemon and chill flakes that was simple but truly delicious. Accompanying it was a Watermelon and Feta Salad that was cooly refreshing. Kathy was cool-as-a-cucumber as she offered us drinks and led us to the dining table where we were joined by Sacha, an Argentinean artist who is working on a large installation on her estate and Linsey, the trainer we had met that morning. Unfortunately, at that point, Llew realized that he had left his credit card behind in the ‘Annexe Burger’ restaurant where we’d had lunch. A quick call to the place confirmed that his card was being held there. Lindsey then gamely offered to drive out there and pick it up. We were extremely grateful for the offer as Llew dreaded driving on the mountain bends in the darkness and since we had intended to leave early, the next morning, and the eatery only opened at 11.00 am, it was good to have Linsey drive up there and pick it up for us.

And then our lovely meal, eaten while seated companionably at a round table, set perfectly with matching ceramic plates and napkins, came to an end. We thanked Kathy profusely for her warmth, hospitality and friendship, said goodnight to her and told her we would awake early, the next morning, to get a head start on our itinerary. We’d had our first taste of the mountains and we could not wait to continue our travels through this most rugged part of the American West.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…

Our Great American Driving Adventure Begins: From California through Nevada and Into Utah, we arrive at Avalanche Ranch in Kamas, Utah.

Monday, August 12, 2024

Our Great American Driving Adventure Begins: From California through Nevada and Into Utah, we arrive at Avalanche Ranch in Kamas, Utah.

Our Great American Driving Adventure began on a lovely, sunny day in Southern California (as all days are!) when we awoke early (by 6.30 am) to get ourselves ready. By 7.00 am, Chriselle and AJ were knocking on the door of our hotel room at The Glenmark in Glendale, California. They had arrived to give us a ride to LAX (Los Angeles International Airport) from where we would pick up our rental car from the office of Budget Car Rentals. AJ helped us carry our suitcases down into the car (using the bell hop’s trolley) and by the time we were all loaded up, it was about 7.30 am. We arrived at LAX, an hour later, went through the formalities involved in renting a car in the USA and found ourselves handed the keys of a Kia Forte. This is a mid-sized car that was easily able to accommodate our cases in the booth. We also had a bag of snacks and drinks provided by Chriselle and AJ and, not having eaten any breakfast, we set off to conquer the highways.

It was very hard to say goodbye to our newly-weds after our happy times with them. But all good things must come to an end and after warm hugs and promises to call and send pictures etc., we were off and away.

On the Road to Utah:

When I had planned out our itinerary, I had expected us to leave LA by 6.00 am as I knew we had a 14 hour drive ahead of us before we stopped for the night in Utah. However, leaving at 6.00 am, would have involved dragging Chriselle and AJ out of bed (to give us a ride to LAX) at 4.00 am! This was, of course, expecting too much. So, in the end, we were 90 minutes behind schedule as we left LA at 8.30 am. It took Llew at least an hour to get to grips with the new car and its controls as I navigated our way out of Los Angeles. We were hugely fortunate that Chriselle gave us the use of an extra phone which carried unlimited data for use in the USA. This made it super easy for us to use Waves, a driving app, to enter the address in Kamas, Utah, where we’d be spending the night. When I look back on it now, I really wonder how we could possibly have made this trip without her phone. It proved to be indispensable to us. Yes, both of us did have a roaming package on our phones (that we had purchased in Bombay), but we had no idea how limited its data package was. Llew ran out of data on his package really soon—at which point, I began to conserve my data (and, fortunately, had enough-- with 60 minutes to spare--by the time we returned to Bombay).

The first part of our drive that took us out of LA and into the desert surrounding the city was nothing to write home about. Urban settlements followed us everywhere. Once Llew got a hang of the car’s controls and we began to feel hunger pangs (as we were both on an empty stomach), I used the many snacks and drinks in our snack bag to keep us going—there were any number of nuts, cookies, energy (cereal) bars, etc. to nibble on as the miles went by.

Lunch in Las Vegas:

However, by the time we reached Las Vegas, it was almost 2.00 pm and we were well and truly hungry. I began to long for one of those All-You-Can-Eat lunches for which Vegas is famed (as I could well eat a horse, by this point). However, I knew that we could not afford the time as we had started out late and Llew was not too happy about driving an unfamiliar car in the dark. We were determined to get to our destination before nightfall.

Hence, although I googled possible choices for a suitable restaurant, we drew a blank as we were led to a place that was not what we had in mind. Still, it was good to stretch our legs after our long confinement in the car and get out in the city. However, I have to say that it was frightfully hot and not at all comfortable to walk on the streets (after we parked in a public parking lot) to go out in search of lunch. We eventually made our way to ‘The Golden Nugget’ casino which was in Downtown Las Vegas (not on the famous Strip) to eat at ‘Chick Fil-A’ (of all places!). This used to be Llew’s Go-To choice for lunch when we was still working in Manhattan. I was not familiar with the fast food chain or with its offerings, so I was quite happy to try something new. We ended up getting Spicey Chicken Sandwiches that were very good indeed and which we ate while seated back in our car. Meanwhile, we did walk right through ‘The Golden Nugget’ which is a hotel (with a crowded pool) as well as a casino, but time did not permit us to stop and try our luck in Sin City! (PS: We would do so in a casino at Niagara Falls, several weeks later).

Back on the Road to Utah:

The drive through the state of Nevada and into Arizona was much more interesting, landscape-wise, than our morning’s route had been. This time round, we were out in Wild West Country. There were solid rock canyons through which our highway cut. It made for superb photo opportunities from the front seat of our car. We passed through mainly desert scrubland with occasional mesas and mountains that followed us everywhere.

About an hour out of Las Vegas, with the highway ahead of us clear of all human and vehicular traffic, we switched sides and I took the steering wheel. I was rather tentative in my first attempts at driving again (as I was driving after a whole year); plus I was in a strange car. However, the fact that the road ahead of me (and behind) was devoid of traffic did a lot for my self-confidence and distance judgement. Before long, I realized that it really does come back very quickly and my confidence swelled as the miles were eaten up quickly. We stopped occasionally for gas and for a cool drink, but that aside, we kept going as we were driving against the clock.

Soon, the terrain changed as did the weather. To our bad luck, we were engulfed by a thunderstorm that brought rain beating against our windshield. Llew took the wheel again and expertly negotiated his way through the rain. And when the grey clouds had passed, we saw the most stunning double rainbows on the horizon that followed us for several miles, growing more vivid and then more faint, as time passed by. Needless to say, I took many pictures of sun’s rays filtering valiantly through grey storm clouds as we gradually made our way eastwards.

Towards the end of our ride, things got really hairy. We lost light by 8.00 pm but were still nowhere close to our destination. Kamas County, in Utah, is about 45 minutes away from Salt Lake City. It had been my original intention to stop in the city (in which neither one of us had been) to take in its Mormon influence and building monuments. But it soon become evident to both of us that we could not afford to stop in the city or even to pass through it. We’d need to go straight to our destination if we wanted to reach by dinner time.

Sadly, we were caught in another rainstorm not far from Kamas. As we passed through the city of Provo, we stopped at ‘Wendy’s’ to buy chilli and crackers. We ate this really quickly in the parking lot so as to save time. Leaving ‘Wendy’s’, we were on the last leg of our journey, but this was the most challenging. We had to go through hairpin bends in the Wasach Mountains that ring Kamas. The terrain, the pitch darkness and the rain combined to create really difficult driving conditions and poor Llew had to grip the steering wheel so tightly to keep control of the car that his wrists hurt for days on end as he tried to bring us safely to our accommodation for the night. Meanwhile, our friend, Kathy was on the phone with us constantly, to find out where we were and to guide us to our ranch—a sprawling piece of extensive acreage at the foot of the mountains. Somehow, at about 9.00 pm. we were at Avalanche Ranch, where Kathy is based, and to whose gate she drove out to meet us. Yes, we finally said hullo to her in the darkness of the night with only a few lamps to shed some light on our accommodation for the next two nights.

A Most Charming Cottage on Avalanche Ranch:

Kathy helped us move our backpacks—the only things we would need during our road trip as the bulk of the items we did not need would stay in our suitcases in the trunk of our car. She gave us a brief tour of the cottage we would occupy, showed us light switches, shower controls, kitchen supplies, etc. and left for the night with promises to meet us. the next day, for a more extensive tour of her home.

It was absolute love at first sight in our cottage. It had a spacious Great Room that included a Living area, a Dining area and a fully-equipped, modern kitchen with full-size appliances. Apart from picking up the wifi code, however, and doing a bit of unpacking, we were ready to hit the attached bedroom and bathroom for hot showers and some much-needed rest. We were too tired even to take in the delightfully decorated space. That pleasure would have to wait till the morrow. It had taken us 14 hours to get to Avalanche and we were ready to hit the sack. All exploration would be postponed until the morrow.

Until then, cheerio…

An Unforgettable Day Trip to Santa Catalina Island, California:

Sunday, August 11, 2024

An Unforgettable Day Trip to Santa Catalina Island, California:

The very day after Chriselle’s wedding was the day we’d chosen to spend with the newly-married bridal couple (they have postponed their honeymoon until October when they will embark on a Mediterranean cruise). As our time with them would be limited and AJ still had his family from Rochester, New York, to attend to in California, they devoted this one special day to us.

Accordingly, we had a very quick, make-shift breakfast of Trader Joe’s packaged croissants (thoughtfully provided by Chriselle) and coffee from the machine in our room, before we met them in our hotel lobby. We were all eager and excited to begin an excursion to Santa Catalina Island (popularly known simply as ‘Catalina’) for a day trip. It involved a one-hour ride on a ferry (for which we had booked tickets online a month in advance--$75 round-trip).

AJ drove us in his car to Long Beach (about 45 minutes’ away) as this is the ferry port for Catalina. It was really lovely to be back in our Subaru Outback again which the couple has refurbished and modernized beautifully. Before the evening was through, I was happy to get back behind the wheel and do a bit of driving myself, after a whole year. It was very heartwarming for me to be back in our favorite car again.

Once we arrived at the ferry that is referred to as “the Catalina Express,” went smoothly. It was very exciting as we climbed to the top deck and settled ourselves in for the hour-long ride. We had a beautiful day for an island excursion and the packed deck reflected the enthusiasm of the various passengers. Just a few minutes into our boat ride, we passed by the iconic steamer, ‘The Queen AngleMary’, one of the world’s most famous liners. It had sailed the world carrying royalty to global ports, but has been dry-docked at Long Beach for several decades. I was very fortunate to take a tour of it, many years ago, when I was a Rotary International Fellow in Los Angeles. It gives one a brilliant idea of the kind of luxury cruise travel that the privileged were permitted long before cruising became as easily accessible as it is today to far-less wealthy passengers.

Arrival and Exploration of Catalina:

An hour later, we were at Avalon, which is the ferry port on Catalina. We disembarked and immediately took pictures at a milestone structure that proclaims the island’s name and age. For those who have been to such resorts, Catalina is the West Coast’s answer to Martha’s Vineyard, Nantucket, Block Island or Cape Cod—all of which are popular East Coast sites in the summer. Catalina has all the trappings of an island holiday venue. The private boats of hobbyist sailors lie in the port adding coloring and charm to the place. The turquoise blue waters of the Pacific Ocean are breath-taking. On land, as soon as one disembarks, shops entice with their regular merchandise of cheap and designer clothing: from casual T-shirts to evening and lounge wear. There are souvenir shops selling nominally-priced and highly artistic take-home reminders of a classy resort. We bought our magnet, of course, but window-shopped with regards to other merchandise. Kid’s beach paraphernalia like buckets and boogey-boards were plentiful and kids were plentiful themselves. They were everywhere—in the water, in the shops and underfoot at every turn. There is a small beach right at Avalon and a lot of people were either swimming or sun-bathing. The place was crowded by American standards but there was an air of vacation spirit at every turn. They certainly had the perfect day for such pursuits.

Lunch at ‘The Lobster Trap’:

Avalon offers numerous choices for hungry visitors. While there are no chain fast-food eateries, there are several Mom and Pop places as well as more high-end establishments so that the limits of all pockets can be met. As Chriselle and AJ wanted this entire day to be our treat from them, they spent on everything: from the ferry to lunch and then the golf cart that we rented, after lunch, with which to explore the island. They made it a really fabulous day for us and we enjoyed every minute.

Their treat, in fact, extended to a lobster lunch and, it was at their suggestion, that we strolled to ‘The Lobster Trap’, a very casual place with a Southern Florida feel in its ambience and décor. Renowned for its lobster rolls, the items fly off their menu cards. Naturally, we too placed our order for Lobster Rolls but also tried out the Lobster Tacos and a Spinach and Lobster Salad—all of which were absolutely delicious. The heat of the day also called for cold beer and we enjoyed our lager in the shade on the upper level of the restaurant while overlooking other patrons below us. During lunch, we talked about how beautifully their wedding had gone off and how much everyone enjoyed themselves. We also talked about their plans going forward and our own—as we were headed out, the next day, at the start of our road trip.

A Golf Cart Tour of the Island:

At AJ’s suggestion, we then headed to the center from which golf carts could be hired for an hour at a time to allow those unable to walk

too far to enjoy the furthest reaches of the island. Although it is a small island, it is tiring to climb up to the peak for great views of the ocean. The golf cart is a fine solution and AJ had a quick grip on manipulating it by following the set route that is mapped out for all renters of the little vehicle. As expected, we had a lovely tour of the place as we climbed to the highest peak, took a lot of pictures of the surrounding azure waters, moved through the snazzy little settlements that are filled with clubs and night-time sites for entertainment. The houses, hotels and B&Bs are very quaint and colorful and add to the Caribbean feel of the place. It was a superb way for us to start our own travels in North America and we were really pleased to get the island atmosphere as we would soon be in the mountains—a completely different ambience altogether.

After our golf ride, we had just enough time to get chocolate and pralines and cream ice-cream from one of the many ice-cream parlors on the island and then make our leisurely way to the dock for our 3.30 pm ferry. It would take us an hour to get back to the mainland again and we did not want to be too late as we did have plans for the evening. We did enjoy the ferry ride back from the ferry port at Avalon, where there was an orderly line waiting to board—as the uniqueness of being on the water on a daytrip has its own charms. It had been a brilliantly interesting day and we felt so fortunate that we were able to get to Catalina (which had been on my Bucket List for a long time) on such a fine day.

Trip to Irvine, California:

Right after we arrived at Long Beach, we walked to the parking lot to pick up our car and with AJ behind the wheel, we made our way to Irvine in Orange County. Among the few folks that we could have met in Southern California, we were really keen to meet our landlady, Annu, who relocated from Bombay to the USA and now lives with her daughter. The drive was very pleasant as we passed by many of the unique palm trees that give Southern California in general and LA, in particular, its quite distinctive look. In the secluded gated community in which she lives, we spent the next hour or so.

We had a really nice reunion with Annu, her daughter, son-in-law, and biggest treat of all, her little grandson who is about nine months old. Little Vir, very much the apple of his parents’ and grandmother’s eye, was the center of attention as we made his acquaintance, got to know his parents better and watched him have his own meal—all while Annu provided us with tea and a vast variety of eats. Indeed, her kindness and generosity know no bounds. They were quite charmed to discovery that Chriselle and AJ had married only the precious day and they were warm in their congratulations. We also caught up on their own share of news and exchanged some tidbits about Bandra life with them—as they do miss Bandra and the enjoyable life they had led there. After more than an hour and after warning cups of herbal tea and their delicious snacks, it was time to say goodbye to them.

Dinner at ‘Pinks’:

AJ took the wheel, once again, as we drove to Glendale, California, towards our hotel. As we would be parting after dinner, we decided to find a place where we could buy something light, but something typically Los Angelenos. It was AJ who thought about ‘Pinks’, which he described as “an LA Institution”. I had never heard of it and neither had Llew. It was, therefore, with great enthusiasm that we made our way to the place—a very modest shack-like establishment which has been frequented by every Hollywood celebrity you can name. We discovered that the only items on the menu were hot dogs, fries, onion rings, milkshakes and soda pop.

You can bet we could not resist ordering the hot dogs that came with all sorts of toppings and fixings. We chose chilli in order to make super chilli dogs although Chriselle also had relish with her’s. I was amazed at how tasty they were and how substantial. Just one chilli dog later, washed down with iced Cokes, we were well and truly full. Meanwhile, we had the best time chatting casually about the events of the day and the amazing experience we’d had.

By the end of a long and very fruitful day, we were ready to call it a day. Llew and I needed to return to our hotel to pack up our bags for the start of our Great American Road Trip Adventure. Chriselle and AJ had taken the next day off and would be picking us up in the morning from our hotel.

We parted at the hotel lobby where we requested the Receptionist to keep our bill ready as we would be checking out early tomorrow. That done, we said our goodbyes to Chriselle and AJ and made our way back to our rooms to bed down for the night after packing and keeping our bags together for early morning departure.

Until tomorrow, cheerio…