Palermo, Sicily: More Pass Times in Sicily's Incredible Capital City

Sunday, August 23, 2026

Palermo, Sicily

More Palermo Pass Times:

Today, we undertook some more serious sightseeing in Palermo. First of all, I have to say that both of us slept well. Our B&B was ideally located in a very central, very happening part of the city, but it was not noisy or crowded at all. Our ‘il Pachetto Charme e Design’ B and B owner, Sylvia, made herself known to us this morning after breakfast so that she could undertake all passport formalities, payment settlements, etc. Breakfast was a lovely affair with a basket with our names on it kept in the fridge for us. It contained individual bottles of orange juice, two tubs of yogurt, plus cheese slices and cold cuts and marmalade and jam and butter. Bread was available on the sideboard for toasting with a variety of jams and spreads. There was also a coffee machine and we were able to make ourselves cups of coffee with all the fixings. So, overall, we ate well and had a chance to communicate with other hotel guests who also came out for breakfast from their rooms.

Sunday Mass at the Church of Saint Joseph (San Guiseppe):

So, as it was a Sunday and I had found out yesterday that Sunday Mass would be said (in Italian, of course), at the Church of St. Joseph which was ideally located at Quattro Conti at 9.30 am, I told Llew that we should try to make it in time. Accordingly, we left out place at 9.15 and walked briskly through fairly empty streets (everyone was having their lazy Sunday lie-ins) to arrive at the church where there were about 20 (if that) elderly people waiting for Mass to begin. The priests here are always older than the hills as are the congregation. There is nobody under the age of 60 here in these churches. St. Joseph’s is a grand Baroque church and I had the opportunity to admire every nook and cranny of it at Mass and the exceptionally long sermon that went on and on. It was also dreadfully hot and humid and every single member of the congregation had a hand fan that they were desperately using. Yes, there were two pedestal fans, one on each side of the aisle and these were expected to keep folks comfortable! It was a laugh! Of course, these gorgeous old churches cannot install ceiling fans—that I do understand. But why on earth provision cannot be made for more pedestal fans to be installed is beyond my comprehension. Mass and Communion over, we hastily trooped out of the church.

At 10.30 am, crowds were just starting to appear at Quattro Conti which is the most popular congregating point for tourists in Palermo. The four different Baroque marble facades with fountains at their base offer endless photo ops—so it’s not surprising that everyone and his brother was posing here. This crossroads, by the way, of the Via Maqueda and the Via Vittorio Emmanuelle is called the Theater de Sol (Sun Theater) as a result of the play of the sun on the four different facades as the day progresses. The marble sculptures on the four sides are the work of Julio Lasso.

Visit to St. Catherine Of Alexandria’s Monastery and Bakery:

Since we were just next door to it, we decided it would be a good time to visit another big tourist interest here in Palermo: the Monastery of Saint Catherine which dates back centuries. It is no longer a running monastery, but it is still a working bakery (and a highly successful one at that) and a place of tourist interest for its magnificent church, its nunnery quarters and its baking facilities. The good nuns (like the good monks of yore) used their talents for commercial good—they had to stay alive, after all. And while the monks made the world’s most famous liqueurs (Drambuie, Amaretto Di Sarrono, Frangelico, etc.) in their monasteries all over Europe, the nuns turned their hands to confectionery and made the most sought-after pastries. Here, at St Catherine’s, the canoli are legendary—but they also make other pastries and cakes.

First all, we visited the church which is just gorgeous. After a point, I have to say that the interior of one church blends into the other…but this one was simply outstanding, The pietra dura work, in the Florentine tradition, was so thick and so colorful as to be visually arresting. There was also a variety of marble statuary featuring everything from statues of saints to animals such as regal lions. Lavish paintings on the ceiling, an extraordinary marble floor fully encrusted with marble inlay work, walls, pillars, columns, altar with a central crucifix surrounded by four pillars made of lapis lazuli and amethyst, were just simply stunning. There are simply no words…Each side chapel was more arresting than the other. Marble sculptures of God the Father in His glory were so spectacular as to make it impossible to leave the space. It was truly one of the best churches we saw on a trip in which every church simply blew us away.

Leaving the church, we were led to the Museum (as our entry ticket covered this treat as well). This a series of rooms that were only opened to the public recently as they were the private quarters of the cloistered nuns of the convent who spent their days and nights in prayer and labor (baking). Now that their former quarters are open to visitors, we were able to walk down their long and quiet corridors, all stark and unadorned but for the occasional crucifix on the wall or statue in a niche. We saw a number of beautiful jewel-encrusted monstrance and other sacred implements used on the altar. Eventually, we arrived at the most private part of the property—the individual cells or rooms in which the nuns had actually lived. Each nun had a single bed, a desk with two chairs, a small closet, a kneeler (for praying) and a washstand with ewer and basin. It was spartan and utilitarian and would have served the needs of each nun in a place in which one had given up all worldly wealth and vanity to live the monastic life. I love exploring these spaces because it helps me understand the kind of religious zeal and fervor of a past age that has all but vanished.

Visiting the Monastery Bakery:

The tour route did eventually reach the bakery. For those who had stronger limbs and were adept at climbing heights, there was a more expensive ticket to take you to the rooftops for apparently really grand views over the city. But I did not have the stomach for it and instead chose to wend our way down towards the bakery on the ground floor. This is a very popular part of the tour as almost everyone comes here hungry to sample some of the fine baked goods that were once baked by nuns but are now baked by lay women to the original recipes.

We had to stand in a line for a few minutes as only a handful of people are allowed inside at a time…but once in, we saw a number of women working hard at ovens and kitchen counters to turn out the delicious baked goodies. There were also glass cases full of cakes, cookies, pastries, etc,. and one could order those and take those home. But the most popular items were the giant canolis whose shells were visible. You could pick your filling (usually a sweet ricotta cream filling) and select your topping (chocolate chips, candied fruit, crushed pistachios, etc.) and then take your treat, pay for it and go outside with it. The most popular spot to enjoy it was the orange orchard right outside where there was a large crowd of people sitting in the shade offered occasionally by the low-growing orange trees that brought a delightful fragrance to the place. But, as we had just eaten really large breakfasts neither one of us felt hungry enough or tempted enough to try one of the pastries or canoli. So after taking a few pictures, we left.

By this time, the sun was hot. It was midday and we were both fatigued by the merciless sun. It has become our custom to return to our hotels for the afternoon to rest away the hottest part of the day. We did this while also picking up a few souvenirs from the stores (scarves, socks, magnets, etc). until we reached our ‘il Pachetto Hotel’ which was very conveniently located right off Via Maqueda. Our naps, in the cool air-conditioned interior of our room which was covered with walls sporting famous Italian recipes, was just delightful. We decided to set off again about 5.00 pm when the fury of the sun would have passed.

Evening Stroll through Parts of Palermo:

When we awoke, the first thing we did was return to the Theater Massimo, at the end of the street on which we were staying, as we had discovered, by this point that its steps are the venue for the last scenes in ‘The Godfather III’ trilogy of films which were shot by Francis Ford Coppola. Naturally, I felt we had to take a picture on these steps. So back we went to this venue. The evening crowds had not arrived yet although there were some visitors making the rounds. We climbed up the steps and I tried to get a glimpse through the glass doors…but there was really nothing of the foyer to be seen. Guided tours are given in this space throughout the day, that take visitors into the opera house. Had we more time, perhaps we might have taken this tour too. But, alas, we had to be content to see it from the outside. Yes, we posed for our pictures and when we were done, we walked along Via Maqueda and then, following our map, we reached the waterfront. We spent more than an hour making our way to the many watercraft scattered in the harbor and there were dozens of boats very neatly lined up in their slips. Posh hotels and upscale apartment buildings lined the waterfront. We sat there for a while to people-watch and take in the slanting rays of the setting sun gilding the seascape. It was a lovely place for pictures. Yes, Palermo is beautiful and has many different faces. In this spot, we were reminded of its sea-faring history and the numbers of invaders who have, through the centuries, docked here and made this island their home. This waterfront, by the way, is known as La Cala.

Off to the See the Centuries-Old Banyan Tree:

And then, we followed the map again to walk along Via Garibaldi to arrive as Guardini Garibaldi (Garibaldi Garden) in order to see the centuries-old banyan tree that has spread its massive root system (both embedded and hanging from the branches) most luxuriously across the park. We found it within a ten-minute leisurely stroll and posed under it for pictures. There were only about 4-5 people in the garden and they too were photographing the tree as, believe it or not, it is on the tourist track as one of the sights not to be missed!

Time for Dinner and some Cucina Siciliana (Pizza):

And eventually, when all this was done, with dusk well and truly upon us, we stopped at the many souvenir shops along Via Garibaldi to pick up gifts as there were shops galore, most run by Bangladeshis. We decided to use ‘Lonely Planet’ to find a pizza place as close to our hotel as possible (as last night we’d had pasta). It recommended a place called ‘Osteria Maqueda’ and that was where we made a beeline. I need to say that all restaurants lining Via Maqueda have touts standing outside trying to entice you into their place. Competition must be severe and now that it is almost September and the tourist season will end shortly, I suppose they must be as eager as possible to make as much money as possible.

We arrived at the place and were seated inside (as I still feel the great need for the AC as the nights are muggy too). We always start off with a bottle of sparkling water here in Italy and after looking at the drinks menu, I decided to have a Limoncello Spritz (which I did not like at all—it was too bitter for me) while Llew had a glass of the house red. There was a vast pizza list with at least 25 different types of pizza on it, most named for ladies! We chose a Pizza Emma—going strictly by the list of ingredients in it: prosciutto de Parma, thinly-slice potato (yes, a somewhat unusual ingredient on a pizza but actually quite common in Italy), mozzarella cheese. Our waiter had informed us, when we ordered it, that it involved a shot of brandy and that it would be flambed at our table! Wow! All the better, I thought. And so, there was a bit of drama at our table when the pizza arrived. It was flambed, table-side, with much fanfare, the flames leaping up in a golden glow as all other patrons turned their attention to our table. The folks next door even said, “Congratulations!” to us! Well, it was very good pizza and we enjoyed it immensely.

And with that, our day came to a wonderful end. Tomorrow, we will leave Palermo after breakfast and make our way to Agrigento. Palermo had been amazing—a totally wild ride through a capital city that had so much to offer—from the grandeur of royal palaces, the baroque splendour of astonishing churches, the austerity of nunneries and monasteries, the opulence of delicious luxurious pastries, an opera house that stopped one’s tracks, gourmet dining in Michelin-quality fine dining restaurants, etc. The quaintness of military and royal history plus the messiness of contemporary society with its illegal immigrants and stowaways co-exist in this ages-old environment and fills the visitor with such a sense of awe and wonder.

Until tomorrow, when new adventures await…ciao.

Palermo, Sicily: Pottering Around Sicily's Captivating Capital:

Saturday, August 22, 2026

Palermo, Sicily

Pottering Around Palermo:

What a day we have had in Palermo! Everyone who had visited this city previously had told me how wonderful it is. But, you have to see it to believe it!

Anyway, allow me to tell you why both Llew and I fell in love with this place. First off, we woke up, after a good night’s sleep, in il Pachetto Charme e Design B and B on Via Donizetti in Palermo, where we had arrived last night at about midnight. Did not have much of a chance then, as we were both so exhausted, to really appreciate how wonderful this hotel has turned out to be. It is both the things it advertises in his name: charming and beautifully designed. The walls have frames on them that contain illustrated Italian recipes! I have taken pictures of each of them. Donizetti is one of my favorite opera composers and his ‘Lucia di Lammermoor’ is one of my favorite operas! This owner might have seen me coming!! Anyway, the side streets are named after Verdi and Bellini and Rossini—if you can believe it! When I awoke, I discovered that when I stepped out on my lovely little wrought-iron balcony and turned my head to the left, I was staring right at the dome of the Teatro Massimo, the gorgeous opera house of the city between the plain buildings of our street. It was such an unexpected sight! But so uplighting!

Once fully awake, we showered, got dressed and went to the little eating area (like a small café) for breakfast. Sylvia, our hostess, had laid everything out so well—so organized and systematic. There was a little basket in the fridge with the name of our room (Nifra) on it. In it, there was a small box containing slices of cheese and cold cuts (salami and ham). We used these to make take-out sandwiches (with the sandwich bread she had provided) as there was so much else available. There were also pots of yogurt, jam, marmalade and bottles of orange juice. On the buffet, there was a sweet (a lemon tart), sliced sandwich bread, butter (in the fridge), honey, marmalade, Nutella—a toaster, a coffee machine with coffee pods available), tea bags with sweetener and sugar. Sylvia had thought of everything. It was amazing! Our places were well set with crockery and cutlery. We made ourselves coffee and then created breakfasts for each of us, according to our taste. Quite replete, we left for our first stop: a visit to the Stazione Centrale (Central Train Station) to buy tickets for our trip to Agrigento the day after tomorrow.

Using online resources, I discovered that a free shuttle bus was available from the Piazza of the Teatro Massimo, but I was mistaken. Instead, we were directed to take the public bus Line 101 along Via Roma to get to the station and this we did—paying 1.30 Euros per head for the ticket to the driver. We were there in about 15 minutes and in no time at all, we were in the line waiting to buy our tickets. The clerk was able to speak perfect English and he informed us that there was no train to Agrigento but a bus that left from right outside the station. We settled for the one that would leave at 9.30 am (after breakfast) and with 2 tickets in our bag (11 euros each), we were off. Mission Accomplished! We could now begin our sightseeing for the day. We reversed our journey and took the return Line 101 to the same spot at the Teatro Massimo. En route, we made a slight detour to arrive at the Oratorio of St. Sebastian where we made a swift, prayerful visit.

Viewing the Teatro Massimo:

On arriving at Teatro Massimo, we had a chance to appreciate its architectural bones—like the Opera Garnier building in Paris, it presents various faces as you circumnavigate it. It is a celebrated building, the third largest opera house in Europe and one that is known to present some of the world’s best-known opera companies. Also, the building has gained notoriety as Francis Ford Coppola shot the last scenes from his film, Godfather III, on the massive and very elegant stairs leading to the main lobby. All the more reason to stop and take a picture standing on those steps. There were large numbers of walking tours being conducted in various languages all around us as we followed instructions and returned to our B&B to meet our landlady, Sylvia and to do the entry formalities with her (as it had been too late last night).

And once those were carried out, we began our walk along Via Maqueda to get to the center of the city—a place called Quattro Conti (the Conti Quarter).

Strolling Along Via Maqueda:

Via Maqueda itself deserves a sightseeing word. It is an old Roman Route—once used by traders and their customers and, two thousand years later, this is still its chief function. Both sides of the narrow street are lined with restaurants. Because it is so hot at this time of year, every place is a café trottoir—a pavement café, with tables and chairs spilling out and adding to its craziness. There are also souvenir shops galore filed with the most enticing wares and if you have the time and the inclination, you can completely empty your pockets here. We walked smartly ahead to Quatro Conti.

Viewing the Four Corners of Quatro Conti:

Conti is a most unusual and interesting junction. It is the intersection of four streets—each marked by completely sculpted facades that feature a fountain at the base with a well-known Roman deity and graduating upwards to present nobles and aristocrats of Palermo’s historical past. The sun plays games on the four corners so that, at different times of the day, different portions of it are highlighted. This is where most tourists congregate or pose for pictures. It is probably one of the oldest parts of the city and continues to attract with its architecture and artistry. Quatro Conti also makes the perfect spot from which to begin sightseeing along Corso Vittorio Emmanuel, the main thoroughfare that contains some of the city’s biggest attractions. So here are the items we ticked off our To-Do List (thanks to the lovely little map that Sylvia gave us).

The Praetoria Fountain Near By:

Just a block along Via Maqueda is the famous Praetoria Fountain—so called because, in Roman Times, the Praetoria was located here. Apparently, the fountain is similar in design to one found in Messina on the other coast of Sicily. It is a massive architectural achievement consisting of concentric circles in tiered heights. In the center is a Roman deity (water gushes out from the top) and all around it are nude nymphs, Tritons, etc. in sculpted marble. It presents a lovely place for posing opportunities as you get the dome of the Church of St. Joseph, at the back, depending on where you position yourself and the dome of the Monastery of St. Catherine on the other. So, the fountain is sandwiched between the two of them. Llew and I encircled the fountain on foot and took pictures to our heart’s content, before moving on. I have to say that the map informed us that most of Palermo’s attractions are to be found on one street—Corso Vittorio Emmanuel-- so that all you have to do is walk along it to see most of them.

Next Stop? No Mafia Museum:

One cannot really visit Palermo without coming to terms with its Mafioso past. And the city makes sure you remember the deadly days of the Cosa Nostra, the families of organized gangsters who ran the city through racketeering in drugs, prostitution, extortion, etc. All these aspects of it (and they continued until the 1980s—if you can believe it) are documented in the No Mafia Museum which is free to enter. Of course, most of the world first became acquainted with the Sicilian Mafia through Mario Puzo’s fiction and Coppola’s trilogy of films that documented the role, contribution and activities of three generations of the Corleone family—in The Godfather series. But here, in this museum, you leave fiction behind and enter the real-world of the gangster families, through mainly photographs and some video coverage. Although most signage is in Italian, there are some notes in English, but honestly, it would take at least half a day to do justice to this museum—and we did not have the luxury of that kind of time. Instead, we went through the few galleries that comprise this museum really quickly. Your blood will run cold as you read details about the activities of the Mafia and the manner in which they eliminated any and everyone who stood in their way. The church, the state, the police…veryone was in their pockets. Everyone was making money from their activities and if you did not comply or attempted to bust their operations, you were eliminated in such a way as to make it look like an accident. I mean, there is just so much to write about this museum. There is also a whole section on the Seven Bandits—but I know too little about them to be able to comment. This museum made me want to go back home and do some more reading to educate myself about their place in this horrific saga. I became familiar with the family names of Falcone and Borsalino. But for lack of space and time, I will simply say that every visitor to Palermo should stop by and see this monument to the past. It is still hard to believe that law enforcement was finally able to end these sinister operations and that the families (as in the case of the Mafia in Chicago in the 1930s and 40s) were finally crushed.

Stopping Off Briefly at the Museum of Modern Art:

En route, we passed by the Museum of Modern Art. We entered and found that it was in a palazzo but, as we did not have the time to explore it (it seemed to have a lot of work by Botero), we merely looked into its rather lovely museum shop and moved on. The square in which it is located is also picturesque. It has a sculpture in the center and is surrounded by quite evocative buildings on all four sides. We continued along the main street and then popped into the quadrangle of another palazzo—these homes of the rich and famous are studded all along the street. The architecture of each of them in unique and highly photogenic. Finally, as the heat mounted, we arrived at the massive Cathedral of Palermo.

Exploring the Cathedral of Palermo:

The Cathedral of Palermo is one of the city’s biggest attractions. It is a massive building made of rust-colored stones that extends for about two New York City blocks. It is also highly decorative on the outside so that you cannot stop taking pictures from its various angles. The gardens in front are also quite lovely and provide the only pops of colors in a monochromatic palette. The building has turrets and spires, a long walkway and a dome—it has all the ingredients of ecclesiastical architecture. After taking a whole lot of pictures, we moved inside, eager to get away from the glaring sun and the heat that was steadily building up.

We learned inside that this building was built in the 1100s on the foundation of an Islamic mosque that stood here from the 9th century. There is a small inscription from the Koran that is still visible on one of the grey granite pillars to the left of the main entrance—the only visible sign that this was once an Islamic place of worship.

Inside, you enter a vast and very cool space—cool in the sense that you find relief from the merciless sun outside. As in the case of all European Baroque sacred structures, it has an exuberantly painted ceiling depicting scenes from the Bible, tons of marble statues of the various saints high up on plinths lining the main nave, an abundance of side chapels, each devoted to a different saint (each more decoratively adorned with variegated marble), a grand main altar (this one is entirely in silver and is dedicated to St. Rosalie (the patron saint of Sicily) whose relics are on display in a silver casket on the altar.

Yes, there is pietra dura everywhere as Marble is the magic ingredient used in the most artistic and creative ways to make the interior visually stunning. After we saw the entire cathedral, with all its altars with their painted altarpieces and their sculptures, we walked to the back of the cathedral where we saw the tombs of the four aristocrats of Sicily who are buried here—Frederick II, Roger II and two others. Their tombs in solid porphyry (the rarest and most expensive marble in the world—deep purple in color and used for the mausoleums of all the popes) is the reason why it has become extinct—it was once quarried in Egypt, but there is none of it left in the world! We took pictures of all these aspects as well as of the pillar with the Koranic inscription before leaving the Cathedral and walking out again in the blazing sun. By this time, it was about 1.30 pm and we were ready to eat some lunch. We had carried sandwiches (cheese and cold cuts) and looked for a shady spot in which to consume them

Having lunch in a pretty garden and Arriving at the Grand Royal Palace:

We did find a shady spot and we sat down and enjoyed our sandwiches—which gave our feet a chance to take a break to as we had been on them for such a long while that fatigue was beginning to creep up on us. However, as we had come almost to the end of the main road, where the main attraction is, in fact, located, we pressed on.

Not a couple of blocks later, we arrived at the precincts of the Palace and, my goodness, how huge it was! This was really the piece de resistance of our sightseeing day. For a ticket of 17 euros, we were led inside, but not before we stood outside and took pictures of its massive girth, all stone in rust-shades with crenelated turrets to which one is led along wide stairs to the main entrance.

Viewing the ‘Monet and Other Impressionists’ Exhibition in the Palace:

It turns out that some of the kingly rulers of Sicily descended from the Norman rulers of France and since Monet and the Impressionists spent so much time in Normandy, they saw it fit to hold a huge exhibition of the art works of Monet and his contemporaries in the palace. The 17 Euros ticket included entry to this collection and, needless to say, I was thrilled.

So, to begin with, you enter a space where you are fully given in to the magic of AI. About a dozen paintings and photographs depicting the Impressionists on the beaches of Normandy were used to create an AI program to show the visitor how they painted ‘en plein air’ (outside, in the open). It was quite lovely indeed. Just adjoining it, was another small cubicle where, through the use of mirrors on all sides, the viewer felt as if he or she was actually in the space surrounded by Monet’s paintings. These moved and changed and presented such a lovey experience (similar to the ones of Monet and Van Gogh’s work that I have seen in Bombay). This seen, one moves into the main exhibition space where paintings, large and small, are exhibited under thematic sections: By the sea, on land (all in Normandy, of course), by the harbors of Le Havre, Arromanches, Honfleur, etc. There were works by such recognizable names as Renoir, Monet, Cezanne as well as Pissarro, Sisley, Bonard and one by Berthe Morrisot plus a bunch of other names that I did not recognize at all. It was amazing to me that so many painters of the period were imitating the style of the Impressionists and were doing it reasonably well. As an artist myself, I know now how difficult it is to produce this style, so I am doubly impressed by the efforts of these contemporaries.

Seeing the Roman-Punic Archeological Remains:

This done, we were directed to the lower level were the excavated remains of Roman-Punic Palermo can still be seen in beautifully delineated walls, rooms, etc. The Palace, it is hard to believe, was built in the 15th and 16th century and added to in the 18th century, upon the ruins of this entire city that once stood tall and proud in the age of the Romans. I found its long history just amazing.

Entry into the Palace and Visit to the Pallatine Chapel:

Finally, we were in the Palace where we had to climb two high floors along extremely wide and very shallow marble staircases to get to the top. I know from my visit to Bologna, a few years ago, that these types of staircases were designed for horses to climb them! This allowed the animals to get to the very chambers of their royal owners so that they could be brought downstairs or be riden upstairs! Anyway, by the time I arrived at the first floor, I was breathless and so we decided to see the Palatine Chapel first.

And oh my goodness…I had no idea what to expect and I have to tell you that I was taken straight to Ravenna, on the Amalfi Coast in Italy, which I had also visited a few years ago. Ravenna is noted for its many Roman-era churches and chapels that were designed in the Byzantine style by the use of the most visually stunning mosaics. Well, this Palatine Chapel was exactly the same. The entire chapel (and it is huge) is covered with these mosaics—many of them in the glorious gold tile that actually glitters and gleams in candlelight. The depictions on the walls were of scenes from the Bible and of Biblical figures of Christ and the saints—so large and so realistic that they are breathtaking! I mean I cannot even find the words to describe what we saw. Plus there are motifs on the marble walls whose decorative elements seem to derive entirely from the Moorish or Islamic influence of its erstwhile past—there are geometrics that are only distinctive to Islam. I found all of this simply fascinating and I would say that this was, for me at least, the piece de resistance of our visit to Palermo.

Visiting the Royal Apartment:

Once we finished our visit to the Pallatine Chapel, we climbed one more flight of wide stairs to arrive at the Royal Aparment. However, I have to say that, having seen the Byzantine mosaics, one floor below, there was really nothing here to compare. It is a series of rooms, royal of course, but run-of-the-mill, I guess. Some paintings, a bunch of antique furniture pieces (many from the 18th century), some decorative items (sculpture, lamps, chandeliers)—the usual paraphernalia of aristocratic living. There are some interesting paintings on the wall, done in imitation of those found in Pompeii—but truly, by this stage, nothing to write home about. Also, as we were quite visually and physically fatigued, by this time, we were ready to call it a sightseeing day. So, we retraced our steps back along Corso Vittorio Emannuel and decided to get back to our hotel for a much-needed rest.

Visiting the Spectacular Church of St. Joseph (Guiseppe):

Just as we reached the spot called Quattro Conti, we discovered that the Church of St. Joseph was open to visitors. For 2 euros each, we could enter it, and goodness, how pleased we were that we thought it wise to spend the 2 euros and go inside. It was a confection of the most magnificent decorative details: a splendid Baroque painted ceiling that stretches the entire length of the nave, an abundance of figurines (angels, cherubs, etc.) that are sculpted and then attached to the ceiling and sides of the church to appear as if embossed—they are three-dimensional and the only time I had ever seen anything like this was at the Chateau of Fontainbleu outside of Paris, a few years ago. The decoration was simply exuberant and was seen all over the church—in its many side chapels and on the main altar. One of the items that really moved us deeply was an unusual depiction of the adult Jesus with his foster father, Joseph, in his arms as his mother Mary looks on. Neither Llew nor I had ever seen Joseph and Jesus depicted as adults—we have seen many images of the Baby Jesus in Joseph’s arms. This was deeply moving. It appears as if Joseph or sick or dying and Jesus was cradling his head tenderly as he offered care. So lovely!

I also found out what time the masses were, the next day, as it was Sunday and we wanted to begin our day with Mass. Turns out there was a Mass at 10,00 am and so we resolved to return to this church tomorrow to attend Mass.

En Route to our Hotel for a Long Nap:

You can guess that, by this point, we were fairly falling with fatigue and decided to go back to our hotel for a rest. En route, however, we stopped at a few souvenir stalls to buy some scarves as gifts for female friends as they were so beautiful and we really loved the depictions of citrus fruit (mainly lemons) that are symbolic of Sicily. With these in our bags, we arrived at our B&B and bedded down for about three hours. We would emerge again at about 6.00 pm to find a place for dinner close to our base as we simply could not fathom the idea of walking again for miles. Lonely Planet online was a great resource, and it suggested a place called DOBA—so there we went! And Boy, was it gorgeous!

Fine Dining at DOBA:

DOBA was hard to find although we used our Google maps app to find the place. It happened to be on the third floor of a building off Piazza Theatro Massimo—we had to use the intercom to get them to open the main door, after which we took the elevator upstairs. At the main door of the restaurant, we were greeted by the owner-chef himself who said, “I am Doba”. Well, he was just lovely. We were seated on the terrace with the huge dome of the theatre just behind Llew’s head. It was time to take a look at the menu.

Llew had a local Sicilian red wine (after consulting with Doba himself). I chose a negroni and thought of my friend, Sangeeta, who loves them. It was delicious. As we awaited our drinks, we were presented with three amuse-bouches: one was a parmesan crisp with a dab of hummus on it (delicious), another was a small croquette with a touch of basil in the sauce and the third was a tiny bowl of caponata which is probably the best I have ever eaten (even better that London’s Antonio Carluccio’s offering in his restaurant—which I often order and take away home because I love it so much). Next, we decided to have a pasta dish as our Primi and we opted to share it. The kitchen divided it quite easily into two plates with Fussolini pasta (corkscrew pasta) in a pistachio pesto (instead of walnuts)—the flavor was far more subtle. Chopped and roasted pistachios finished off the dish, but the highlight was that it was topped with a raw langoustine (similar to sashimi and just as delicate in taste and flavor)—we loved it. Next, for our Main or Secondi, we chose the Beer Pork Neck (which turned out to be pork neck cooked in beer for 12 hours). It was so tender that it was literally falling off the bone and not too fatty as most of the fat had rendered during the slow cooking process. The gravy that came with it was scrumptious. This dish was served with thrice-cooked potato fries: first boiled, then dried out in the oven for an hour, then fried and well seasoned. And finally, there was a dollop of pesto on the side. The whole experience was simply superb and after we congratulated DOBA who told us that his full name was Domenico Basile—and that he derived his name from the first two letters of each name—we posed for a picture with him. Who knows but someday, he might become one of the world’s most celebrated chefs. Anyway, the entire experience cost us about 100 euros and I thought it was great value for money.

Dessert was eaten outside on the square; for the Piazza was simply heaving at about 11.00 pm. Most people have an afternoon siesta as the sun is simply so intense at that time that they extend their day well into the night. There were diners, walkers, buskers, etc. even at that time, all congregated around the stairs of the massive Teatro and offering real-life theater. We found a gelateria that offered no less than 50 flavors of gelato and opting for Dark chocolate with cinnamon and chilli powder and gianduja (hazelnut chocolate), we had ourselves an absolutely memorable dessert.

And on that happy note, we were delighted that our B and B was just a block away on Via Donizetti. We made our way upstairs in the elevator and as soon as we entered out rooms, we brushed our teeth, changed for the night and crashed. It has been a sensational day and we were just delighted with Sicily

Until tomorrow, ciao…

Cagliari, Sardinia and Palermo, Sicily: Arrivederci Cagliari and Buona Sera to Palermo:

Friday, August 21, 2026

Cagliari, Sardinia and Palermo, Sicily

Arrivederci Cagliari and Buona Sera to Palermo:

Llew and I had such a wonderful day together. So wonderful that we did not realize we walked almost 16,000 steps today! We covered quite a bit of Cagliari and then some…we went far outside the city limits to Poetto Beach for a very special treat. But first things first…

Llew slept right up to 8.15 am at which point I woke him up. I was up by 6.00 am and started blogging as well as reviewed all my tourist notes to find out where we should go today and how we should plan our day. It was important to set out early and grab as much of the cool morning temperature as possible as the mid-afternoon heat is truly oppressive

Right after I showered and got dressed, I woke Llew up. He then had his shower and we set out of our B and B (after leaving my bag out in the corridor—Llew’s had yet to be delivered by Air France), and went off to meet the day. Since we had covered the right hand side yesterday, we turned to the left today. Our idea was to explore those parts of Cagliari that we had not seen yesterday. Accordingly, we walked along narrow and extremely quaint Via Alberto Lamarmora, where our B and B is located, past the Basilica Square and arrived at another look-out terrace offering stunning view of the city. Then, we carried out, using a map to arrive at the City Arsenal, marked by a ceremonial. This is one of the oldest parts of the city and the interior has been turned into a Museum Quarter. We went past it towards Pizza Independenzia, all the while keeping our eyes open for the possibility of breakfast. We found it in a little kiosk called Una Camino where we each ordered a pastry (mine was a chocolate donut and Llew’s was a chocolate croissant) and with cafe lattes for each of us, we had ourselves a lovely light breakfast—a welcome change from the massive breakfasts I have had for the past 8 mornings in the hotel in Oristano. We had the company of a bunch of British tourists who had gotten off the P and O Cruise Liner that we could see berthed in the harbor just beyond the massive medieval city walls.

En route to the Benedetto Market, we passed again by the Arsenal and decided to step inside to the see the Museum Quarter—it is a modern space housing three museums: archeological, art and ethnographic. However, as we did not want to spend time in the museums and preferred to explore the city itself, we took pictures and left.

Then, we passed under the medieval Porta Pancrezias which is a towering structure with a small stone gateway. We had to go past the gate and walk downhill all the way to the entrance to the Botanical Gardens from where we had to go still further south. It bothered me that we would need to climb back uphill again and we had to do it by 11.30 am as our landlady had told us that newer guests would be coming and she wanted our stuff out so that she could clean the room. She was kind enough to allow us to stash our bags in the corridor outside until 6.00 pm when she also called us a taxi to take us to the airport (for 23 euros).

Visiting the Benedetto Market:

We took a few pictures and then, following our map, we walked downhill for half an hour at least as we had decided to go to the Benedetto Market (which is apparently one of the big attractions of this city). This turned out to be a bit of a disappointment as the actual market is closed as the piazza is being renovated and the vendors have moved to Piazza Nasari, close by. This market did not at all have the feel of an old community market. It was a series of little stalls, each manned by a vendor in various sections: fish (stinky), meat (they actually sold horse steaks and plenty of beef), pig’s head (for porchetta—pig’s cheek dishes), etc; sections for fresh produce (I had never seen a fresh prune and bought one just to taste—it was super sweet and very flavorful), veg (loads of it and it actually had a fresh vegetal fragrance), cheese and cold cuts—the Italians sure love their charcuterie and there is so much delicious variety that it is mind-boggling. After a quick turn around the market, we decided to leave the market and start the long and very arduous trek uphill back to our B and B. It was about 11.00 am by this time and the sun was already hot and the climb was not my favorite thing to do in the heat! Anyway, we got there by 11.30 am and left our bags outside and then set out again with the idea of coming back to the corridor to pick them up by 6.00 pm.

Return to Piazza Yenne and off to Poetto Beach:

Going by my Lonely Planet notes, and since we had seen quite a bit of the city of Cagliari yesterday, we decided to take an excursion outside the city to Poetto Beach. Following online instructions, we arrived at Piazza Mazeotti where we had to wait for a while before we got the bus that we thought would take us there. It really was way outside the city but, in the process, we got to see way more of Cagliari that we could have covered on foot. Talking to folks on the bus, we realized we had to get off soon and when we did get off in the middle of nowhere, we realized that we were nowhere near Poetto Beach. Long story short, along came another bus and we set off on it for the beach. Once we got there, it was about 1.15pm and since we’d both had a light breakfast, we were ready for Lunch. We found a restaurant right on the sands with a stunning view of the jade green Mediterranean Sea, and once seated onside, we had lunch there

Lunch at Poetto Beach:

Both of us were dying for something cold by this point as the sun was simply merciless. Hence, we ordered a 50 cl draft local beer and drank it thirstily after also ordering the Seafood Fregola--this is a typical Sardinian pasta dish which uses tiny pasta pearls as a base, cooked in a seafood broth and studded with small clams, large mussels and diced shrimp. It was really delicious and we thoroughly enjoyed it. It was also good we decided to share it as we were both quite filled by the end of it. This done, we were ready to see the flamingoes and the salt pans—they were the reason we had ventured so far out of the city

Well…that’s where our adventure began. The lady at the restaurant gave us directions to go to the stop to see them. But, I think she had no idea that we were on foot—she probably thought we were in a car! We walked for what seemed like forever in the blazing sun until we realized that we would need to ask for more directions. Anyway, passersby suggested we wait for the PQ bus and that was an interminable wait. By then it was almost 3.30 and Llew was worried that we would not reach in time for our 6 pm taxi at Cagliari. Just when I thought that we should abandon the plan and return to Cagliari, a PQ came along. We hopped into it bought our tickets on the bus and rode in it for what seemed like forever until we arrived at the lagoon where the flamingoes congregate. Long story short, we saw a few of them in varied groups and we got some pictures—so our mission was not entirely in vain. But it was too much time and too much effort and too much anxiety waiting for buses to make the mission seem worthwhile.

On the way back, we waited for the bus to take us back to Cagliari (the PQ) where an African passenger (also waiting with us) told us it would take another 15 minutes or so. And he was right. When the bus eventually arrived, we jumped into it, retraced out steps, got off at the Stazione Centrale and walked back to Piazza Matteotti and climbed the hill back to Piazza Yene. We stopped to buy a cold Coke en route as the heat was quickly depleting us of all our energy. In the end, we actually had some time to spare and so we sat down at Piazza Yenne and did some people-watching before making our way back to our B and B.

Luckily, the elevator to take us up to Castello (Old Town) was working and we were able to get up to our B&B quite painlessly, although by this time, we were both exhausted

to the Airport to Retrieve Llew’s Baggage and Fly to Palermo, Sicily:

We were able to make our taxi (with time to spare on the doorstep of our B and B) and speed out of the city to Cagliari Elmas Airport. We’d given ourselves ample time as Llew had to get to Lost and Found to pick up his bag (they had called me at about 1.00 pm and confirmed that his bag had arrived and was awaiting pick-up). At the airport (ride cost us 23 euros), we used the facilities and then Llew went out in search of his bag. He got it quite easily (in about fifteen minutes) and joined me in the Arrivals Lobby. Then, the two of us climbed up to the Departures Lobby where we thought we should get a full meal as our flight on Ryanair would give us no food or water at all and we’d reach Palermo at nearly midnight.

And so, after charging our phones for about 20 minutes, the Ryanair counter opened (two and half hours before departure), we checked in our bags and were off to grab dinner. McDonald’s was the only place offering a full meal in this part of the airport—I got a Fish burger meal and Llew got a Big Mac and with that in our bellies, we went through Security (the long line moved really fast) and made our way to the Gates where we found absolutely loads of duty free shops and eateries. We browsed a bit and then went to Gate 1 where, in a few minutes, at 9pm, Boarding would begin. All went well, our flight departed on time and we were airborne at exactly 10.00 pm. I had a window seat but it was dark and there was nothing we could see either at take off from Cagliari or landing at Palermo.

Arrival in Palermo, Sicily:

Yes, we did find our bags with no problem on the conveyor belt and with those in hand, we posed by a sign that said, ‘Welcome to Palermo.” We had arrived in Sicily and we were excited. They taxi touts outside looked at the address of our B and B and told us it would cost us 65 euros to take us there. We had no choice at 11.30 p and so off we went. The cabbie sped through the city (the ride took about 40 minutes) and dropped us right outside out building. We paid him by credit card and were at the main door downstairs. Just when we were about to follow instructions to get in, another couple were also entering the building. We simply followed them to the third floor—they were also, coincidentally, guests in the same B and B. I have to say that we were both really exhausted by this point and were waiting to simply crash on our beds. The door to our room was left open, no Receptionist was around (but Sylvia had left us ample and very clear instructions) and we easily found our room, switched on the AC (there was no fan—so it was unbearably stuffy until it got going) and with that, we simply put on our night clothes and got straight into bed. I have to say that we loved our first impressions of the B and B (Il Pachetto Charme and Design B and B) which had the exact ingredients in its name (Charm and Design). But we would really only appreciate it when we were better rested.

Until tomorrow, ciao…

Cagliari, Sardinia: Arrivederci Oristano, Buongiorno to Cagliari and Llew:

Thursday, August 20, 2026

, Sardinia

Arrivederci Oristano, Buongiorno to Cagliari and Llew:

The week had gone by in a flash—far quicker than I had expected. I found the Writers Workshop very useful, overall, for galvanizing my desire to get back to my Creative Writing with a vengeance. But, I know that once I return to my life in Bombay, routine will get the better of me again and I will need to fight to carve out the time to devote to getting my Fulbright book completed and moving on to new projects.

So, when I awoke this morning, I was aware that I had only a few hours before my cab would come to pick me up and take me to Oristano train station (at 10.00 am). Most of my packing had been done, the previous evening. I had only night clothes and last-minute things to stash away. When I went down to the restaurant on the ground floor, I took pictures of the breakfast buffet because I strongly doubted I’d see anything quite so satisfying again. As this was my last day, I returned to scrambled eggs and bacon, enjoyed muesli with apricot yogurt and tried something Ifeona had suggested yesterday: ricotta cheese with honey and walnuts. Gosh! They were really good. Wish I had tried them earlier. I also put a few churns of crushed black pepper over it and the taste was superb.

Ifeona joined me downstairs for breakfast (she was leaving about an hour before me) and in a little while, Tim joined me too. We had a chance to spend about a half hour chatting together before Peter joined us. He too was on his way out—we bade him goodbye and then finished up our breakfast before taking our leave of each other and parting. I took my last looks around my room and bathroom and took a few pictures in the lobby of the lovely Mistral 2 Hotel which had been my home for the past one week, before I stepped outside to wait for my cab. It arrived, like clockwork at 10.00 am and with my little carry-on suitcase in the trunk and my backpack on my back, off I went. It cost me 15 euros to be dropped to Oristano station where I was well in time to buy myself a one-way ticket to Cagliari. No sooner did my buy my ticket than Anastasia arrived—also taking the same train to head to the same place. Naturally, we rode on the train together. I got off at Almas Airport while she rode the train for one more station because the hotel at which she would be spending the night was closer to the second station. I, on the other hand, would be meeting Llew at Cagliari airport at the same time that his flight from Paris would touch down. We had coordinated our mutual arrival well and as soon as I arrived at the airport, I saw that Llew’s flight had just landed. It would not be long before we would have our fond reunion.

However, as they say…the best-laid plans of mice and men…go awry. Llew did not come out quickly as his bag too had been left behind in Paris by Air France and was not loaded on to his Cagliari flight—it was like deja-vu all over again! The same thing had happened to me exactly a week ago. Luckily, I had prepared Llew for the terrible possibility—so he knew exactly what to do. He went to the Lost and Found inside, filled out the forms and told them to deliver his baggage to Palermo as we would only be in Cagliari for one night. However, in the event that his bag would reach on tomorrow’s flight, it would be at the airport by 2.00 pm and as we were taking our flight to Palermo from the same airport at 10.00pm, we’d be able to pick it up ourselves. Naturally, we hoped that this would be the case.

Taking a Cab to our Digs in Cagliari:

Since we’d be spending one night in Cagliari, we actually had a day and a half to explore the city. This is all Llew would see of Sardinia before we pushed off for Sicily. Hence, there was no time to waste. The cab we took from right outside the airport dropped us off to our B and B within half an hour. But Denise, who owned and ran the place, told us that we had informed her that our check-in time would be 4.00 pm. Well, I had no idea that we’d reach so much earlier…but she obliged us by agreeing to allow us to check in early. Since she lived about 20 minutes away, she told us to wait until she arrived to open the door to us.

True to her word, she arrived 20 minutes later. Her place was in Old Town Cagliari, i.e on the topmost rung of this mountainous settlement where, to get from one rung to the next, you had to climb up and down flights of stairs—not a prospect I savored! Still, our room was very spacious and well-furnished. It had a spotlessly clean en suite bathroom, good security arrangements and a kitchenette outside our room that offered us basic amenities. She did not offer breakfast but there was a coffee machine and kettle in case we wanted a cuppa before going out in search of food in the morning.

Exploring Cagliari Together:

We lost no time in going out to explore the city. We realized pretty quickly that Cagliari has two major tiers—the Upper or Old Town (called Castello) and the Lower or more Modern Part (made up mostly of an area called Stampache). I had my ‘Lonely Planet’ notes which informedus that Cagliari, a port city (the fourth biggest in Italy), is the capital of Sardinia. It is the gateway through which thousands of sun-seekers arrive to laze on the island’s astounding beaches and frolic in its crystal-clear azure waters. The Phoenicians, the Byzantines and subsequently the Spanish through Aragon, arrived here, over the centuries, each leaving their mark on its architecture and culture. Allied Forces rained bombs down on the city in 1943 reducing much of it to rubble—much of its Baroque uniqueness was lost to World War II and, although efforts to rehabilitate it are immense, they are not always picturesque. It’s also a contemporary city—with many glittering designer stores selling enticing merchandise and a university dating back to 1628 that has thousands of fashion-conscious students who keep the fashion industry alive in these parts. Llew had a taste of the fashion world when he went out to buy a few clothes as his bag had not been delivered. He ended up going to a designer store called ‘Gianni Lupo’ to buy two lovey linen shirts and a snazzy pair of mustard shorts.

For our afternoon of sightseeing, we made a bee-line for the Cathedral of Santa Maria di Castello (Castello being the name given to the entire hilltop on which Old Town is constructed) which stands proudly on Piazza Pallazo. This was less than a ten minute walk from our lodgings along atmospherically quaint streets the color of honeyed sandstone. Old-fashioned gas lights added to the ambience of a warren of streets whose wrought-iron balconies seemed to touch each other. Each door to the lodgings was humongous, a great wooden affair that had old-fashioned keys.

The cathedral dates back to the Gothic 13th century but the Romanesque marble façade is more recent—built between 1933 and 1938. Inside, one is astounded by the exuberance of it all. This is Baroque ecclesiastical design at its most splendid. Yes, there is a striking altar set up on a series of four steps each of which is crowned with a lion, There is a regal look to everything because royalty would have worshipped here in the distance past. Pietra Dura is lavishly applied over every visible surface from ceiling and walls to the floors you walk on—seems almost sacrilegious to walk on so ornate a marble carpet. Every side chapel has an elaborate oil painting depicting one of the saints to whom the shrine is dedicated. Most intriguing of all is the crypt to which you descend via a few steps. Inside, there are 179 niches, each containing the relics of various martyrs whose remains were found during the excavations in the 1700s near the Church of San Saturnino. The walls are so elaborately covered with marble pietra dura that my camera simply could not stop clicking. And when we came back to the surface again there was a large silver reliquary containing the remains of other saints. The pulpit, extravagantly carved in marble is said to have been brought here from Pisa in the 1300s. Suffice it to say that the makers of the new monument to Christendom went overboard in filling it with details that crowd the eye in every direction.

A Short Walking Tour of Castello:

Once we had seen the Cathedral, we emerged into the sunshine and began a short walking tour of Castello. This walk took us through narrow streets that opened out into larger squares or piazzas. Everywhere, we saw souvenir shops and stores selling cool drinks as it was really exceedingly hot—uncomfortably so. As the clock crept towards 5.00 pm. however, the ferocity of the sun would decrease and being outside would get more bearable. I have to say that it was wonderful to see a town filled with human beings again—after the ghostly emptiness of Oristano which had made me feel as if Armageddon was upon us.

We passed by the two thick twin towers that comprise what is called ‘Elephant Gate’ built in 1307, and going through them, found ourselves in a large piazza, completely clad in marble, where there was a lot of construction going on. This square, called Piazza Carlo Alberto, was the official square, surrounded by official buildings, each flying the national flag. We were lucky to spot an elevator and realized that it took people way down—for when we stooped over the parapets on this square, we saw that the lower level was really far below us. Imagine having to go up and down stairs to reach that level, I thought, with horror (for we were at least ten storeys high).

It was not long before we took the elevator to the ground floor and found ourselves in a delightful, geometric garden filled with sculpture. This is the Pinochia Sciola Garden—named after the sculptor Pinochia Sciola. We strolled around this space with the towering ramparts of Castello just above us, as we took in three important sculptural works by Sciola in this space. Then, we left the garden and, following a map, made a right to arrive at the monumental Bastion of San Remy which is a massive marble gateway that forms a sort of demarcation between Old Cagliari and the modern part. In fact, it was in one of the modern lanes that Llew stepped in to buy a few clothes. The Bastion faces the large Piazza Constitutione and resting there for a few minutes, we then began walking along Via Garibaldi to take in the shopping area, still hoping to find clothes for Llew. I was able to find some pretty reasonably priced silk scarves in a lovely exclusive boutique that was closing and offering 50% off some of its merchandise. I had a couple of good buys there. Then, we carried on walking until we made a right about turn and got back to Piazza Constitutione. Once we arrived there, we took Via Manno which was a steep downhill walk to get to Piazza Yenne, a happening square filled with shops, restaurants, etc. We sat ourselves down at a monument placed in a rotary as this was a busy intersection. It was about 7.00 pm by this time and we thought it would be good to find a lovey place to eat dinner. We wanted to return to our B&B before we felt completely wiped out.

So, I sat and used my phone and ‘Lonely Planet’ gave me some suggestions for places in the Stampache area (where we were) to find a good traditional Sardinian meal. It led us to a place called ‘Sa Domu Sarda’—a rather modest-looking place on Via Sasari that was renowned for serving traditional Sicilian food. But we were lucky we arrived there when we did. Had we come half an hour later, we’d have had to join a queue for the eatery’s reputation definitely did precede it.

Sardinian Dinner at ‘Sa Domu Sarda’:

Well, we were soon seated inside as I did want an AC-ed atmosphere in which to enjoy our meal. In fact, everywhere we went, while the locals preferred to eat outside on the pavement, I wanted to avoid the heavy mugginess of the season’s humidity and sit in a cooler atmosphere. Inside, we found the place to be charming: classy but not exceedingly stuffy. There were tourists but there were also a load of local families that had arrived in three generations with children feeling quite at home in their surroundings. We started with a glass of red wine for Llew and white sparkling wine (Prosecco) for me. While we sipped, we enjoyed the lovely crusty bread that is provided on every Italian table together with superb-quality extra virgin olive oil and good balsamic vinegar for dipping and snacking. For our meal, we chose the gnocchi in tomato sauce which was basic but very delicious. For our Main, we chose the filet of horse (yes, horse is a popular meat in Sardinia) in red wine sauce—it was done succulently medium rare as we had ordered and was very delicious. For dessert we shared the Seada—a famous Sardinian sweet which is a puffed pastry round pocket filled with a subtle mixture of ricotta cheese and lemon zest. When served, it has warm honey poured over it. This gives the dish a sweet, salt, sour combination of flavors that is very easy on the tongue. Overall, Llew enjoyed his first real Sardinian meal very much.

And on that happy note, with our exit from the restaurant and our noting of the line that had formed outside, we went out into the night life of this sizzling city. Every restaurant had crowds of people eating in the pavement cafes, clubs were buzzing and streets were full of visitors. There was a lovely holiday energy everywhere and we enjoyed it. Walking very slowly uphill (as it was about 9.30 pm by this stage and we’d had an eventful, busy day), we arrived at Bastion St. Remy from where we took the elevator up to Castello and then walked along the quiet, winding streets of Old Town to arrive at our B and B.

All we did then was wash and get ready for bed as we were well and truly exhausted and ready to crash. We had accomplished a great deal of sightseeing for a single afternoon and whatever was still required to be covered, we would finish up on the morrow.

Until tomorrow, ciao…

Oristano, Sardinia: Another Working Day in Oristano –with Short Excursion to Gramsci House Museum in Ghilzara.

Tuesday, August 18, 2026

Oristano, Sardinia

Working Day in Oristano –with Short Excursion to Gramsci House Museum in Ghilzara.

I awoke, as usual, at 5.00 pm (darn body clock)! Spent most of the morning blogging, then reviewed some of my writing to decide what I wanted to read at Participant Readings this evening. Next, I piled on some clothes and went down for breakfast as it was already 8.00 am when I was done.

As I am trying a different breakfast each day, I ate my muesli with strawberry yogurt and some hot milk (or else it is too cold for me), then moved to the plain croissants with cold cuts and cheese (to make myself a takeaway sandwich for lunch). Next, I ate another plain croissant with butter and orange marmalade and tried one of the chocolate chip sponge cake wedges with Nutella and walnuts sprinkled on it. I washed everything down with a hot chocolate and I finished off with a fruit salad. Yes, I am eating far more breakfast than I normally do but the rest of my meals during the day (as we are so busy and barely have time to eat) are frugal. There is siesta here between 12.30-3.30 pm (so every shop, restaurant, etc. is closed and you cannot even buy a sandwich anywhere). I have been making a take-out croissant sandwich daily and it has been a real inspired idea to do this—if not, I would be starving. I met Tim at Breakfast but he left after about fifteen minutes as he too had work to do.

Breakfast done, I returned to my room to shower and get dressed and then got my backpack ready to leave at 9.30am and walk to the Institute. I was the earliest there together with Tim and Hal. We moved into the cooler room and about ten minutes later, our working day began.

My Story Being Critiqued Today:

As in the case of everyone else, I got some good reviews of my story. People said they were touched, some said “devastated” by the end and I got some really good suggestions for how to improve it by pushing the loss element further and leaving the protagonist’s surprise a true surprise (by not telling her anything even until she dies). I loved those suggestions. Tim found fault with the fact that the couple seem oblivious to what was going on in America at the time and that the carnal side of their marriage remained unexplored. I thought he was not quite right in assessing the mindset of immigrants who are too driven and wrapped up in their own plans for success that they are left untouched by whatever is going on around them. Anyway, I took notes fiercely and after my piece was analyzed, we moved on to the works of three other writers. It was a very fast-moving morning and we broke up at 1.00 pm for a short break. Most folks went looking for something to eat and returned empty handed (siesta) while I sat in the same room and ate my croissant-ham-and-cheese sandwich.

Visit to Ghilzara to the Gramsci House Museum:

Ravi had arranged for us to visit the home of Antonio Gramsci in a small village called Ghilzara which is about 40 kms away en route to Cagliari. Although I am not a philosopher and remain unfamiliar with Gramsci’s writing, I have been to enough conferences where every second panelist quotes from his work. Hence, I was intrigued and keen to take on this excursion.

Lorenzo, our driver, arrived at 1.30 pm and then with about 8 of us in his van, we made our way to Ghilzara along the motorway (everything was empty as people seem to hide away during siesta hours). In the first place, this place is so sparsely populated that it is a bit scary—Oristano has a total population of 30,000 people!!! We arrived at the spot at about 2.00 pm. Lorenzo left and there we were, standing in the blazing sun outside the doors of the Museum that were well and truly closed for the siesta. Some phone calls were made and we were informed that the place would open at 3.00 pm. That was a whole hour to kill in the torturous heat of the sun.

Thus began our walk through a tiny, ancient village that Time forgot. The houses were all uniformly old, with beautiful wrought iron balconies (a distinctive feature that I have not seen anywhere else in Sardinia). They are in various shades of brown from lightest beige to orche. It’s really interesting to me how monochromatic these places are. We wound around narrow streets (all completely empty) to pass by a war memorial monument and an old-fashioned faucet until we arrived at a garden-like restaurant called ‘Valparadiso’. There, we gratefully sat down to escape the heat and had ourselves a cooling drink—sparkling water, beer, Prosecco. And then it was time for us to march on again. This time when we arrived at Casa Gramsci, the door was open to us.

Visiting Casa Gramsci—the Home of Antonio Gramsci, Sardinian Philosopher and Communist Activist:

The former home of Antonio Gramsci has been turned into a very basic museum today. He was born in 1891 in Ales, a small village (not much different from this one, Ghilzara), the youngest child (hence called Nino) in a large family where his mother was a huge influence on him. At age 7, the family moved into this modest home in Ghilzara. It is three small rooms down and three small rooms upstairs (quite small for a family of seven—parents and five children). He went to the local school and continued to live in this home till the age of 20. He moved to Turin for higher education and became exposed to the fiercely divisive politics of contemporary Italy. The country was divided between the Communists and the Fascists—Gramsci was a Communist and his political writings landed him in jail from where he did the majority of his writing. The museum contains information about his early family life but not much about his later years. In fact, the Receptionist told us that an exhibit about his later years is currently being curated and it will be a while before this is made available to the public. What we did see were black and white photographs, blown up, on the wall, from his early years. As we walked from one room to the next, we saw how strong the family influences on him were and how voracious a reader he was from his earliest years. Upstairs, the same layout led us to his bedroom which was the most interesting element: there was a beautiful old single bed and a washstand and that is all. More pictures, some extracts from his writing (all in Italian) were also on carboard cutouts everywhere. I enjoyed stepping out on to the upstairs balcony and taking some pictures against the slate tiled rooftops with hazy mountains in the distance.

Not long after, Lorenzo returned (at 4.30 pm) to pick us up and we piled back into the van and returned to the Institute for the next item on our agenda: Student Readings of their own Creative Writing.

Participants’ Creative Writing Session:

I had signed up as the first one to read from my writing and I went first. Each person had ten minutes and I read from my short story, “Tea and Sympathy” All these stories were written more than 15 years ago—so I am re-visiting them after ages. I did not get to read the whole story (as we had only 10 minutes each) but I was able to provide a good idea of what the plot was like. People seemed to like it.

This was followed by readings from various other student-authors and I enjoyed very much the very high standard of their work. By then, it was almost 7.00 pm and we had one more item on the agenda: a talk-reading by our guest faculty, Peter Zilahy.

A Talk-Reading by Peter Zilahy:

Peter Zilahy is a Hungarian writer who grew up in Budapest, Hungary, when it was still behind the Iron Curtain. He started off with a reading from some of his prose and then had a free-wheeling conversation with all of us. His attitude is overly casual and his stance, as is to be expected, anti-Establishment. He hinted that his writing, during the Oban years, led him into self-exile in Venice where he now lives and from where he traveled for this Workshop. A few folks made comments or asked him questions which he answered as best he could. His own writing seemed nostalgic, harking back to his childhood and then arriving at his early adolescence when the Communist regime fell. He, therefore, straddled the worlds of Communism and Democracy and stated that these opposing systems impacted his writing. He had an hour on the floor after which, at a little past 8.00 pm. his session ended and we were free to leave. While his talk was on, we nibbled on a tray of vol-au-vents (rather soft and stale) filled with tomato sauce, olives, tiny mushrooms, gherkins, etc. There were also beer and Prosecco doing the rounds and we did keep hunger pangs at bay as we barely eat anything during the day.

Off to my Hotel for Dinner and Rest:

had been a long and very full day—plus being out in the blazing summer sun had taken its toll on us all. I felt quite tired for the first time since coming here. En route to the hotel, I had stopped at the SPAR and picked up a small container with a cold shrimp salad (made with fresh cherry tomatoes and red onions). It cost me 8 euros. I also bought myself a punnet of cherries (for 4 euros as I rarely get to eat those in India). Back in my room, I piled this salad on to my pasta that was still in the fridge and finished up the last of it. I also finished the remaining tub of tiramisu that was also in my fridge and then I felt replete. I used the time while I was eating to review the air tickets that Llew has sent me for our proposed trip to the US and UK in September-October. Then Llew called me and we had a long chat to iron out some schedule issues and to decide where he would meet me tomorrow when he arrives. We decided that I would meet him at the Cagliari airport in time for the arrival of his flight and together we would take a taxi to our hotel.

I then kept my clothes ready for tomorrow morning when I have an early morning appointment with Tim and Ravi—a final consultation. After this, I will be free—it will be a good time to finish out the sight seeing I intend to do on the Sinis Penninsula.

Until tomorrow, ciao…

Olbia, Sardinia--A Free Day Sees me in Olbia, Exploring the North of Sardinia

Monday, August 17, 2026

Olbia, Sardinia

A Free Day Sees me in Olbia, Exploring the North of Sardinia

It was a free day today for us New York Writers Workshop participants. I had elaborate plans to buck the trend (most folks intended to spend it at nearby beaches) and travel all the way to the neighboring island of Corsica. With some imaginative juggling, I felt sure I could make it there and back in one day. No such luck! Train and ferry schedules conspired against me and refused to be in sync. If I did the ferry crossing, I would have no time at all to see Corsica and if I stayed on there as long as I desired, I would miss the last train back from Olbia to Oristano. It made sense then to spend the day exploring beautiful Olbia and I have to say that I was glad I took that course of action at the last minute.

But first things first: I had a taxi coming to my hotel at 7.00 am to take me to the Oristano train station to catch my 7.30 am train. As the hotel’s breakfast buffet only opened at 7.00 am, the Receptionist was kind enough to allow me to eat my breakfast at the lobby bar where the Receptionist on duty brought me two warmed croissants and a massive glass of caffe latte (as that was what I had requested instead of a cappuccino). Fueled with this sustenance in my belly, I felt mor confident about making the long journey ahead of me—solo, I might add, as no one wanted to be as foolhardy as me!

All went well at Oristano train station where I reached very early and waited in the Waiting Room until my platform was announced (last-minute change). I found myself a lovely seat: it was a two and a half hour journey, cutting across the entire island of Sardinia to get to Olbia. Along the route, I passed by fallow fields (Sardinia is uniformly beige with the occasional patch of green to relieve the monotony of the scorched landscape) with grazing sheep, olive groves, cows in pasture or chewing the cud in the shade and vineyards with fruit plumbing under the blazing summer sun. While on the train, I was desperately scrolling through train and ferry schedules to try to coordinate my journey to and from Corsica (as I was aware that the last train to leave Olbia to return to Oristano was as early as 6.00 pm—no trains down south after that one).

It was when the conductor looking for tickets came along (and spoke perfect English) that I realized I would miss the last train down if I stayed on track (as it were!) with my plans. In the afternoon, for three hours (between 12.30 and 3.30 pm), there are no ferries crossing the straits between Corsica and Sardinia (everyone taking their afternoon siesta perhaps). Hence, I could have reached Corsica by 1.30 pm but would have to wait till 3.30 pm to get the ferry back. This would only leave me two hours in Bonifacio and, worse still, would not enable me to make the 6.00 pm train back to Oristano. So, just about fifteen minutes before I arrived at Olbia Terranova (the conductor told me to “forget about” Olbia Airport or Olbia stations—the other two in the town as they would not serve my purpose at all), I took his advice and on alighting at Olbia Terranova, I asked a female train conductor there (who spoke perfect English) if she could help me find a return train to Oristano. She pulled out her online schedule and told me that there was a train leaving Olbia Terranova at 2.18 pm to arrive at Oristano at 4.45pm. This was simply perfect for me. And so, with her help, I purchased my ticket at one of the ticket machines and set off to explore Olbia.

An Afternoon Spent in Olbia:

Olbia is on the northeast coast of Sardinia—the other side of the Mediterranean Sea! Again, my Lonely Planet notes were very helpful in enabling me to figure out what I wanted to see and do. There are basically three things they line up: The Basilica, Old Town and the Archeological Museum. Once I got my bearings, using my Google maps for guidance, I arrived at Corso Umberto—the main street from where I walked to the Basilica Square. It is a huge concrete and granite creation that has not a single tree anywhere near it. The summer sun is merciless here in Sardinia and everyone is sheltering under shade. I went straight inside the Romanesque structure to explore it.

Exploring the Basilica of San Simplicio:

Just inside the door of the Basilica were two young men charging entry fees (3 euros) for exploring the church! Can’t believe how commercial these churches are getting! Anyway, I felt happy that the amount was small. Inside, I was given a booklet containing information in English which enabled me to appreciate the architectural features. It was built at the end of the 11th century at the behest of the judges of Gallura (the province under which Olbia falls). The church is the most ancient and religious monument in Northern Sardinia and is dedicated to Simplicio, a bishop who was martyred in 304AD and later canonized as the only bishop decorated with the palm of martydom. The church stands on the location of an ancient pagan temple once dedicated to the goddess Ceres. The antiquity of the church is evident the moment you enter as the brick walls remain unplastered. The ceiling is held up by stone columns that bring the eye to the rather plain altar characterized by more arched pillars and columns. Under the altar, there is a depiction of the bust of the saint in wood and gilding. A gigantic ebony cross with a pristine white Crucified Christ hangs above it and makes for a very arresting focal point. I spent a few minutes in quiet prayer before leaving to go out into the blazing sun again. I used my Google map to get me to Corso Umberto once again and from there, I made my way to the next item on my agenda: Old Town.

Olbia’s pretty Old Town:

Olbia’s Old Town is ve/ry different from Oristano (which is far older) Here, all life centers around the main square which is lined with chartreuse trees that offer welcome shade and lovely boutique shops, souvenir stores and gelaterias. Along the way, to get there, you will pass by a series of shops run by either Orientals or Middle Easterners (complete with head scarves) who sell really cheap made-in-China souvenirs. I have never seen more magnets in a single place than I saw along this boulevard. And yes, I did join the gang and bought one too that depicted all the places in Sardinia that Llew and I will see together.

When I did reach the main square, I settled down first on a shady step close to a gelateria and had my first coppa of the gorgeous dessert: there are now far more artisanal flavors than there used to be in Italy. I had Bacio (based on the hazelnut chocolate similar to the America Kiss—individually wrapped and bursting with flavor) and a Caramelized Fig gelato—two scoops in one small pot. I could not believe how small these little cups are—I have become too accustomed to the generosity of American vendors who pile on their wares when you step out to buy them! Anyway, I have to say that my coppa with two gusti was just delicious and I was glad I indulged, although alone. When Llew is here, we will eat a lot of gelato daily!

That done, I walked down the hill towards the waterfront and once there, I stopped to marvel at the prettiness of the place, its uniformity of color—orche and soft shades of pink, mainly salmon). Just past the main square, there is a secondary square with a tumbling modern fountain in the center encircled by very colorful structures and a plethora of Italian restaurants serving fresh Sardinia seafood. Alas, this treat will have to wait for me until Llew gets here as I have avoided entering and eating alone in good restaurants. I sat and finished up leftover pizza and half a sandwich that I had brought from home and with these, I felt fortified to continue my walk.

Down the hill I went, passing by realtors, boutiques, etc. until the sparkling sea was right in front of me. Olbia is a port city and I could see a cruise ship in the harbor. Its promenade alongside the waterfront, is decorated in the way that the promenades in Rio in Brazil were outfitted—with swirling mosaic waves in black and white. I walked along the promenade for a while, posing for pictures and asking a passer-by to take mine.

Next, I stepped into another large supermarket (Super Pan) and picked up plain croissants, prosciutto and sliced fontina cheese with the idea of making myself a sandwich to eat later on the train. It was a very wise move indeed. This done, I requested the use of a ladies room in a Japanese restaurant—they were very kind and permitted it at once. This allowed me to start the climb up the hill to the Main square once again where I stepped into a vintage shop and admired its wares. I did a bit more window shopping before I realized that I should probably make my way back to the train station. En route, I spied a beautiful silk scarf and I immediately decided to buy it because it featured olives of all kinds, colors and shapes plus lemons and plums—the most abundant fruits of Sardinia. I could not think of a better souvenir to take from this island and armed with that find in my bag, I made my way back to the station. I was a little early so I sat in the waiting room and made myself a sandwich which I ate very peacefully. I notice that, as in France, people are not always eating, everywhere. No one eats in public transport, for instance, and I have to make sure I do not either.

Train Journey Back to Oristano:

My train was on schedule, I jumped into it, found a seat and began the ride down south again. I had one change to make this time around and there were a whole lot of people changing at this spot (Osteri-Chiltiani). There, on another platform was my train going past Oristano and on to Cagliari. I boarded it quite painlessly and found a window seat. I used the time to read the sample writing that we will be workshopping tomorrow—so my time spent commuting both ways was very productive indeed. I requested the girl sitting opposite me to use my phone to call a cab at Oristano station to meet my train at 4.45 pm and this she gladly did.

So when I got off at Oristano, Andrea who was supposed to be waiting for me was not there---but I waited for just a few minutes and he arrived. It was not long before I was in my hotel again.

I spent the rest of the evening getting unpacked from my day’s excursion, having a snack of crackers and gorgonzola cheese and a coffee that I made in my room before I chatted with Llew on the phone. As the evening progressed, I continued with reading student sample writing and then at about 8.15 pm, I had my leftover pasta with shrimp of the previous day and a delicious pastry bursting with lemon curd and a touch of dark chocolate (which I had picked up from the Instituto).

And on that happy and filled note, with sleep washing over me and not fighting it any further, I climbed into bed after brushing and flossing my teeth and getting ready for tomorrow and its program.

Until tomorrow, ciao…

Oristano, Sardinia--Another Working Day in Sardinia

Sunday, August 16, 2026

Oristano, Sardinia

Another Working Day in Sardinia

It is Sunday but, for some reason that I cannot figure out, we are working on full schedule today and will have a free day tomorrow! I awoke at 5.00 am and began blogging. An hour later, I was done. I jumped into the shower and got dressed for breakfast. Today, I had muesli with strawberry yogurt, made myself a sandwich with a plain croissant, some smoked ham and cheese and ate it right there (I did not make a takeout sandwich today as I have a few leftovers in the fridge that I would like to finish). Then, I had a bowl of cut-up stone fruits (yellow plum and fresh apricot—the nectarine was too tart and I had to leave it). All washed down with a hot chocolate. It made a lovely breakfast. Then, I was out the door and walking towards Old Town to find the ATM machine so that I could get out some Euros.

Early Morning Walk in Old Town:

It’s really such a good thing, come to think of it, that Old Town is right across the street from the lane in which my hotel (Mistral 2) is located. In just five minutes, I am crossing the old walls of the medieval city and finding myself in a completely different venue. Logn story short, on a Sunday, the place was dead—only a couple of dog walkers around. The church doors of San Francesco were open, but there was no Mass at that time. I took a few pictures in the Piazza of Eleanora and then walked to the Unicredit ATM machine and got out 120 Euros (about $150). Then, since I was still quite early for my Workshop session, I explored a few shops of Old Town. Not much later, I found the narrow, quaint lanes that would lead me back to the Delada Instituto.

Morning Session by Tim:

Tim was the star of our morning session with his presentation on “Draft, Revise, Review”. He had lovely examples from the Diaries of Susan Sontag and then asked us to do a spot of writing ourselves in just 4 minutes: Profile of a Day, a character sketch and portrait of a place (all in bullet points). Very interesting exercise. It is something from which I could profit as I am always so wordy—even in my blog posts! There were pastries for us to choose from and with one in my bag for later, we were all free. I chose to sit down in the Instituto itself, in the air-conditioned room and review my draft of my memoir (only 2 pages done so far). Then, at 12.30, I ate my lunch that I had carried along (leftovers from my fridge in my hotel—couscous and potato salad with a chocolate donut that was just divine).

Afternoon Workshopping Session:

At 1.30 pm, our afternoon workshopping session began. We had four students’ work to review: Mara, Jane, Lisa and Hal. The feedback they received was very helpful, I think, and they are all so willing to rewrite—that’s the best part of really good writers. They know that good writing involves workshopping, being open to comments and criticism and incorporating them into their work.

We were all done by 4.30 pm. I had made plans with Annalisa to have a zoom chat with her at 5.30 pm from my hotel. So, after the session I raced off and returned to my hotel. However, I did not go straight up. I spent quite a while at the Reception counter where two very helpful girls pulled up the train schedule for tomorrow from Oristano to Olbia and back (as I intend to spend the day in Corsica). I now have the train timings and will only hope that the connections I have to make by bus and then by the ferry crossing the straits to get to Corsica will work as planned. I am going it alone as Ifeona backed out when she found out how long the journey is and how much time it takes to do it in one day and get back. Equipped with this information, I felt more at ease. I returned to my room and spent a while getting my backpack ready for my trip tomorrow--trying to keep it as light as possible. At 5.30 pm on schedule, I had my video chat with Annalisa who now lives in Padua (her flat in Vincenza is being completely renovated to be rented out soon). It was absolutely joyous to catch up with her after such a long time. We spent more than an hour chatting (up to 6.30 pm), when I had to race to get myself organized for the next part of our day.

A Classical Guitar Recital at the Museo Diocesano:

I met Ifeona at the door of her hotel, just down the road, where we were joined by Tim too. The three of us than walked across the road to Old Town and arrived at the Museum Diocesano which is attached to the Duomo. There, inside, we discovered that there is a big exhibition on Tharros—perhaps I shall go there again, if time permits.

The evening’s recital was underway soon enough (at 8.00 pm). It was organized by Ciriaco, who heads the Delada Instituto. He introduced the three guitarists (who are apparently celebrities in their community) and they were off. The concert lasted about an hour and was quite lovely with two guitarists and one percussionist who also played a tiny guitar (a ukulele, perhaps). Then, with everyone starving, we went out looking for dinner.

Finding Dinner in Old Town:

And with that all done and behind me, I took the elevator to my room, had my medication (my cold is now an irritating cough—so bad sometimes that I actually had to leave the room to get over a coughing fit) and went right to bed—at 11.30 pm. Lots of prayers before I fell asleep for the success of my trip tomorrow.

Because it is a Sunday, almost nothing is open today and even the restaurants are closed. After settling down at Il Duomo, we discovered that they only serve drinks and snacks—no food. So off we went deeper into Old Town where it was really hard to find a place to eat. Eventually, Ifeona, Anastasia and I found a place where I finally had pasta—although my Spaghetti con Gambero (Spaghetti with Shrimp) was quite disappointing. I found it much too al dente for my liking and also lacking in flavor. Anyway, while at the table, I realized that I needed to return to the ATM machine to get out more cash for my trip to Corsica tomorrow and that the Receptionist Frederica would go off duty at 11.00pm. So I paid my bill, took another take-out container with my leftover pasta and raced off to the Unicredit machine where I got my money in five minutes. Then, I raced back to my hotel and got Frederica before she went off duty. She helped me buy my ticket to Olbia tomorrow, using my credit card and with that in the bag (12.50 euros one way), I felt so much more at ease. Tomorrow morning, I have a taxi coming at 7.00 am to get me to the Oristano station (25 minutes’ walk). Plus, I was told that I could come down at 6.30 am and get a bit of breakfast (perhaps a croissant or two and a cappuccino) before I get into my taxi. So far, things seem to be working—let’s hope they stay this way.

And with that all done and behind me, I took the elevator to my room, had my medication (my cold is now an irritating cough—so bad sometimes that I actually had to leave the room to get over a coughing fit) and went right to bed—at 11.30 pm. Lots of prayers before I fell asleep for the success of my trip tomorrow.

And with that all done and behind me, I took the elevator to my room, had my medication (my cold is now an irritating cough—so bad sometimes that I actually had to leave the room to get over a coughing fit) and went right to bed—at 11.30 pm. Lots of prayers before I fell asleep for the success of my trip tomorrow.

Until tomorrow, ciao…