Thursday, October 8, 2026
London, UK
Our First Happening Day in my Favorite City: Crossing Wobbly (Millennium) Bridge; Walk Along the South Bank; Frida Kahlo at the Tate Modern; Pie and Mash Dinner at M. Manse; “Oliver The Musical” in the West End
When Llew and I awoke this morning, we were in a British Airways aircraft, only a few hundred miles from London. It was nearing landing time (7.30 am) and, as we were awoken up with a filling snack, we felt ready to take on the challenge of going from Heathrow airport to our friend Bande Hasan’s place in Paddington.
Once outside the airport precincts, we followed the signs to the Uber stand and called for one. It arrived quite smoothly and took us to Paddington where we arrived at the ‘Devonshire’, our friend’s building at 9.30 am. He greeted us in the lobby of his building and, with the help of his doorman, we were able to take our cases up to his second floor flat. There, in one of his bedrooms, we stashed them away and settled down to steaming cups of cappuccino and a long catch-up chat as we were seeing him after one whole year.
But as we’d been on the red eye flight and did not have much shut eye, we were pleased to excuse ourselves, after a while, to take a short nap. But we set our phone alarms to 12 noon and after quick showers, we set out to salvage at least half our day.On the Tube to St. Paul’s and Exploring the South Bank:
We left our friend’s flat and walked to Paddington Tube station from where we both replenished our oyster cards by filling it with a Travel card valid for unlimited travels on buses and Tube trains within zones 1 and 2 for a whole week. Once we had those in our possession, we took the Tube to get off at St. Paul’s Station. I have to say that it was super exciting to ride the Tube trains again; to figure out the direction in which we needed to move; to look at the passing ads in the sunken escalator wells; to arrive at the platform and then to board those familiar red, white and blue trains. It’s amazing how quickly someone who knows the drill gets back into the groove again and soon it feels as if you never left! We took the District line and arrived (after making a change) at our destination—St. Paul’s Cathedral.
Our First Glimpses of London on a Glorious Day:
vLondon sunned itself under benign blue skies as we took our first tentative steps into the city. St. Paul’s stood before us in all its magnificence. Once we got our bearings, we found our way to Wobbly Bridge as our destination was The Tate Modern Gallery where we had tickets for 2.30 pm to see the special exhibition on Frida Kahlo called “The Making of an Icon”. But even before we arrived there, just the act of walking along Millennium Bridge (which I generally think of as Wobbly Bridge—thanks to my former neighbor Tim who had once christening it so), was a real thrill. I stopped frequently to take pictures (but, of course!) as the Thames glistened below us and the far reaches of the city’s landmarks just waited to be recognized and picked out: the Shard, London Bridge, Tower Bridge, Shakespeare’s Globe, etc. We took our time walking over it, joined by hundreds of other people, all enjoying the exhilaration of a glorious autumn day in London. And yes, when we did get to the Tate (Modern), all we had to do was go through bag inspection at the entrance and then ride up to the upper floor where the special exhibition was being held. We showed our tickets at the entrance and in we went.Visiting the Frida Kahlo Exhibition at the Tate Modern:
Frida Kahlo is one of those artists who has such a distinctive style that you simply cannot mistake any one of her paintings for someone else’s. She exemplifies the country from which she hailed, Mexico, with such a strong identity, thanks to her choice of colors (strong, vibrant), her use of motifs inspired by the clothing of her land (some of her own outfits are also on display), her religion (Roman Catholicism), the customs of her people (observation of the Day of the Dead, for instance, on November 2) and her travels. Like Rembrandt, she spent her artistic life undertaking many self-portraits and I think it is these works that help us piece together the person she was and into which she evolved. Of course, her marriage to the equally talented Diego Rivera, had a huge impact on her work as were the relationships she had with well-known figures such as the Russian Trotsky. Her canvases are characterized by a burst of color as well as a crowding of patterns and motifs as to make every single one of them seem very busy. But this is deliberate as they are reflections of her very busy mind and the number of impressions and sensations that she attempted to capture in each one of them. Yes, it is a fascinating exhibition and a wonderful retrospective of her work and Llew and I liked it very much indeed. It was worth every penny we paid for our tickets (purchased online) as while the rest of the Tate’s permanent collection is free, there is a ticket for special exhibitions.
Our exertions called for a coffee and the two of us went down to the café overlooking the river outside to have a café latte each before we decided to take a lovely long and leisurely walk along the South Bank towards Southwark.
A Walk Along the Souith Bank:
London’s South Bank from the Tate to Southwark Bridge provides a lot of interesting sights for the visitor. First, of course, there is the Tate itself. I did not have the time to take a look at any items in the permanent collection, but I intended to return again at my leisure. Next, you pass right by Shakespeare’s Globe Theater which give you the opportunity to take a look at their current season’s programs and find out if you are interested in attending any of the shows and booking tickets. We took a few pictures and walked right past.
The next spot you pass are the ruins of the former Cathedral where the Bishops of Winchester were once base. It is now in such a ruined state that only one wall with the frame of what used to be a stained glass window is seen. However, the floor of the Cathedral has been turned into an attractive garden. We went past it and arrived at the Clink Prison which is the site of an actual prison in Elizabeth times. It has been turned into a site of tourist interest but somehow the thought of seeing torture instruments is too gruesome to me—so I have never visited it. On we went till we reached a dry dock where ‘The Golden Hind’ can be seen. This is the ship that Sir Francis Drake used to circumnavigate the world in the reign of Queen Elizabeth I. It is amazing to us how well all these items are preserved and how much can be seen in a single, short walk.
If you go a little ahead, still along the South Embankment, you arrive at the famous Borough Market. This is the place that has soared in popularity as the years have passed by. When I lived in London, it only came to life on Saturdays when vendors would bring their produce from all over the counties close by to be sold—pies, cheese, olives, pickles, bread, preserves, vinegars, chocolates, pastries, etc. Well, with the tourist demand being so great and London’s tourist population having increased, I understand that there is now a market every day of the week—although not as thriving as the Saturday ones. So, yes, we could see trading going on. In the far section, there is fresh produce (Fruits, vegetables, wine, cheese). There are also usually generous ‘tasters’ (samplers) doled out, depending on when you arrive—most are given early in the day. We did not look for them or eat any as it was the end of the day and most vendors were packing up for the day.
We also had other plans: we wanted to eat a very traditional British dinner and it was there that we were next headed.
Pie and Mash Dinner at M. Manse:
In the days when this part of London (Southwark and the area close to Bermondsey) was inhabited mainly by a class of Londoners known as the Cockneys, the staple food of the region was Pie and Mash. There were several pie shops all over this area and since a pie and mash meal was very inexpensive and very nutritious, it was the food of the poor. There is only one place now in this part of London that is still a pie shop—M. Manse on Tower Bridge Road. And it was there that we wished to sample the food of a past century.
We hopped into a bus that took us fairly close to the venue and then walked a couple of blocks before we saw M. Manse across the street. There was a lovely lady inside who took our order—there isn’t much variety here. The menu is up on a board and the most popular items continues to be the Pie and Mash. Pie is always a beef mince pie and the mash is mashed potato. This is livened up with the addition of what is called Licour—it is a thick, pale green sauce that gets its flavor from Parsley. The lady who served us our platters told us to douse the whole thing with chill vinegar which was on the table—and a good thing she told us too. It was extremely bland and very tasteless without it. I don’t think we could have found it palatable without this condiment. For the more gastronomically adventurous, there were also Jellied Eels and Stewed Eels—this too is old-fashioned Cockney food and I had once tried Jellied Eels in a similar Pie Shop in Greenwich. However, I remember not liking them at all—too slimy in texture for my liking. What would have appealed to me were the old-fashioned Steamed Puddings—you don’t seem them very often these days (Jam Pudding, Lemon Curd Pudding and Syrup Pudding and Spotted Dick). Perhaps on another visit, I shall only order a pudding. Oh and there is Bread Pudding on the menu too. Another time…
The shop dates from 1892—the late Victorian Age. Its interior décor has not changed or been updated since then—which is what makes it historic and charming. The lady informed us that Dickens once lived very close by and was very familiar with the Cockney folk who then became characters in his novels. She also informed us that in Oliver Twist, Fagin’s den was probably in one of the lanes close-by and that Bill Sykes was murdered under the arches of London Bridge which was very close by.
I found all this literary history fascinating and such a coincidence! Because, by happy accident, we happened to have tickets that very evening for ‘Oliver: The Musical’ at the West End (at the John Gielgud Theater). So, just imagine, we’d be seeing the enactment of the murder of Bill Sykes in only a couple of hours! How coincidental was that!? Anyway, after we’d taken a bunch of pictures to immortalize our visit, we left. I had received information about this place from You Tube influencers—so I have little doubt that a lot of tourists come pouring in these days to eat these foods (not just the local people alone).
Bus and Tube to Our Theater Show:
Well, replete with our novel meal, we hopped into the bus that went across Tower Bridge and arrived on the opposite bank. From there (Tower Bridge Tube Station), we took a Tube to The Strand for our Theater show, ‘Oliver: The Musica’ which was on Shaftesbury Avenue. We got off at Piccadilly and walked, in the midst of hundreds of tourists, for night had fallen and the darkness brought more droves of tourists for a night on the town. Our show began at 7.30 pm at the John Gielgud Theater and we were well in time for it.
I cannot even begin to describe how much we enjoyed the show. For one thing, we were right in the first row! Can you even believe it? I mean, we could not possibly have had better seats! For another, the show was simply superb—such amazing acting, dancing, choreography, music, singing. We knew so many of the songs and felt greatly tempted to sing along: “Food, Glorious Food”; “You’ve Gotta Pick a Pocket or Two”; “Consider Yourself”; “I’ll Do Anything”; “Om Pah-pah”, etc. We just loved every minute of it. During the interval, we had chocolate ice-cream cups (another die-hard British theater tradition that we honor and love) and got up to stretch our legs.
One of the interesting things we noticed was that the conductor, who was standing in the pit just a few feet in front of us, was only pretending to conduct an orchestra There were no musicians in the Pit! The entire soundtrack had been recorded earlier and he was just pretending that there were live musicians down there! This was a first-time thing for both Llew and me and we were very surprised. But this strange phenomenon apart, we really loved every bit of the show and felt very glad that we had made a good choice. On the Buses Back to Paddington:We thought we’d take the Tube back and then we felt that we would see nothing, If we took a bus, we’d see London by night—the lights, the sound, the excitement. So, we jumped into a bus that sailed along Shaftesbury Avenue and went all the way to Marble Arch from where we crossed the street and took a connecting bus that went also Edgeware Road and all the way to Sussex Gardens where we got off and walked one block to our building. We had the keys and were able to let ourselves in—it was past 11.00 pm.
What amazing first day we’d had in London! And I can assure you, that based on the way I had planned it, very single one of them would be just as happening and just as much fun.
Until tomorrow, cheerio…