Saturday, October 10, 2026
Audley End in Essex; London by Night and a Royal Dinner with Our Host in Paddington
As I always attempt to plan at least one outing out of London, on every trip, to enable us to leave the city smog behind and retreat into the pristine serenity of the countryside, this year, we decided to go to Audley End House in Essex. I had first heard about this place from my friends, Rosa and Matt Fradley, who live in Essex. Several years ago, on a visit to their home in Essex, they had shown me quite a bit of Essex, taking me to delightful villages such as Bishops Stortford and Stansted Mount Fitchet. While driving around Essex, we had driven on a small bridge where we had stopped to overlook the vast property of a place called Audley End House. They had told me then that it was a stately estate with a grand manorial home (which we could see from the bridge) that was open to the public and that sat in the midst of landscaped grounds by the famous landscaper, Lancelot “Capability” Brown. I had always kept this place in the back of my mind and thought it would be lovely to visit it someday. Well, this seemed like the ideal opportunity. It would give us a chance to get out of London, see an amazing property and also meet the Fradleys who lived close by and could easily make a short trip to see us. So that was settled then…we would travel to Essex by train, see the place and at the end of our trip, the Fradleys would join us for tea and cake. It seemed like the perfect plan.
Breakfast and Taking the Train to Essex:
We did not stop to eat breakfast at our fiend’s place today as we did want to get a head start—we had a long journey to Essex and wanted to make the most of the day. Hene, we merely showered, dressed and left the house, intending to pick up a breakfast to go from Liverpool Street Station. To save time today, we took the Tube from Paddington Station to Liverpool Steet Station and using the Information counters, found the fastest and most economical way (off-peak day return tickets) to get to Audley End (the station you alight at if you wish to visit the property). As expected, after we picked up our return tickets, we picked up croissants and coffee from the station, found our platform (our train would be leaving in about 8 minutes) and we were off. It was a lovely, very pleasant journey by train. As we left the city and the suburbs of London behind, we passed by expansive green and fallow fields, fruit orchards, quaint villages and the like. It was a very good start to our day out. It took us exactly an hour to get to Audley End Station, a very cute, toy-like red and white station from where we called for an Uber that took us to the House. We had a very nice Eastern European female driver who told us that she often drops visitors to the house in exactly the same journey as the one we were taking.
What’s So Special about Audley End? Who Owned It and When?
Audey End was one of the greatest houses of Jacobean England. It was built on the foundations of Walden Abby, a Benedictine Monastery established in the 13th century. When the Dissolution of the Monasteries occurred in 538, under Jenry VIII, he granted Walden to his chancellor, Thomas, Lourd Audley, who converted the monastic buildings into a house.
Between 1604 and 1614, Audley’s grandson, Thomas Howard, first Earl of Suffolk and Lord Treasurer to James I, rebuilt the house to accommodate the King, who visited in 1614. Charles II (who reigned from 1660-85) agreed to buy Audley End from the Third Earl in 1667, as a ready-made palace; but by then it was already old-fashioned and William III (ruled 1689-1702) returned it to the Howard Family in 1701. There followed 40 years of retrenchment, as successive earls sought to reduce the house to a manageable size. This got rid of the grand courtyard, one of the largest in England at the time.
Elizabeth, Countess of Portsmouth, bought the house in 1751, after inheriting part of the estate. She began remodelling the house and gardens, bequeathing it in 1762 to her nephew, Sir John Griffin Whitewell, who then took the surname Griffin (which explains the logo of the house—the griffin—seen on the ceiling in the Robert Adam Rooms). Griffin became Lord Howard de Walden in 1784 and First Baron Braybrooke in 1788. He commissioned Lancelot “Capability” Browne to sweep away the remains of the formal landscape and Robert Adam to add a stack of galleries behind the Hall to create a fashioned suite of reception rooms (that are known as the Adam Rooms).
In 1820, Richard Neville, later Third Lord Braybrooke, moved into Audley End. He sought to recover the Jacobean character of the House, bringing the principal reception rooms back to the first floor. It is substantially his taste that prevails in the house today.
During the Second World War, Audley End served as the training headquarters of the Polish section of the Special Operations Executive. They House was purchased for the nation from the 9th Lord Braybrooke in 1948.
Visiting Audley End House:
The estate itself is managed by English Heritage, a venerable organization that protects and preserves significant properties in the UK. You have to go through a beautiful Tudor Brick gatehouse to enter the property. Once we passed it, there was a small kiosk with a girl waiting to greet visitors. She gave us a leaflet and told us to head to the Dairy to buy our tickets. There was a guided tour beginning really soon and we thought we might be able to catch it. As we walked closer to the Manor, we were able to appreciate its beautiful architectural features. We were informed that a tour of the outhouses were just beginning and so hurried out to join it.
A Tour of the Outhouses by a Dairy Maid:
For the next hour, we were treated to a guided tour from a docent costumed as a dairy maid (who happened to be from the dairy capital of the USA, Wisconsin!). She took us through the dairy, the laundry (wet and dry), the kitchen and the pantry where we were astonished at the size of the entire housekeeping operation. It was fascinating indeed to learn about the way laundry was done in the Wet Laundry—the various steps—and to see the huge wash tubs, the contraptions that were used to hang up the linens on lines to dry, etc. In the Dry Laundry, we were shown the fireplaces at which really heavy, coal-filled irons were used to press the dried laundry (not much different from the kind of irons I remember the Indian dhobis using when pressing our clothes).
We then moved on to the Dairy where we saw the way in which milk cream was churned to create butter. There were many wooden butter presses around. There were also huge pottery urns used to store the milk and keep it cool before it could be consumed or turned into cream and butter. All of it was fascinating.
We then moved into the humongous kitchens that were actually a series of rooms that included a hearth, a fireplace, winding contraptions on which meat could be hung for even manual roasting and spinning. We saw the pantry and I loved the way it was still filled with glass bottles and jars with fruit and vegetable preserves neatly lined inside. There were also bowls and utensils of every sort that were used for storing food grains, etc. It introduced us to the massive operation it was to feed all the members of the estate—not just the aristocrats themselves but also their huge staff who kept the home in top condition. Anyone who watched ‘Downton Abbey’, and became fascinated by the series, would have an idea of what feeding the estate involved.
Touring the House:
As for the home, it is humongous and as we sauntered from one room to the next, I seriously wondered when it would end—it was so tiring! The tour guides in every room were amazing. As they spun out the complicated history of the estate that spans a lengthy period of five centuries from the Tudors to the Edwardians, we were left aghast. Each room was opulently appointed as it was a royal residence and, on many an occasion, had hosted the reigning monarch. There were the usual rooms we associate with such estates in the UK—a massive hall with a carved wooden screen, in which the portraits of the main players in the game were on the walls (among them, Lord Audley who was a lawyer that helped draft some of the most important historical documents of the Tudor period—I guess he made most of his money in this way, like all lawyers, even today).
This room done (and we spent the most time here as the guide gave us a very comprehensive idea of the history of the House at this point), we took an ornate curved staircase to get us to the top floor. This staircase was itself intriguing as it was designed and created by John Vanbrugh. Everyone knows that Vanbrugh was one of the most prominent dramatists of the Political Restoration period and made concrete contribution to Restoration Drama (drama created when the theaters re-opened in 1660 after Charles II came out of exile in France and returned to claim back the throne of England so that the Monarchy was restored after the reign of Oliver Cromwell and the Puritans from 1642-1660). Well, Vanbrugh had never taken one architectural course in his life and yet he was capable of creating these exquisite architectural features in stately homes. He is also responsible for the design of Castle Howard in York (another fantastic building that is jaw-droppingly gorgeous). How??? I simply cannot fathom what special sort of talent it takes to be gifted in such a diverse range of fields!
In the next room, we went through a long gallery lined not with oil portraits as is the convention, but with glass vitrines filled with taxidermized animals and birds. There is also a parlor where the monarch met nobility, a gorgeous dining room with a pendant ceiling, multiple bedrooms, at least two libraries, a water closet (the first of its kind in the UK) and even a coal scullery.
But, for me, being such a massive fan of 18th century architect and interior designer Robert Adam, I was fully taken by the superlative Adam Rooms where the Jasperware style of plasterwork, popularized by Josiah Wedgwood in his pottery factory up north in Stoke-on-Trent, is given fullest reign. In lovely shades of pastel pink and green, the symbol of the members of the family, the griffon, is worked into the plasterwork on walls and ceiling. I was enthralled.
Stopping for a Bite with Our Friends, the Fradleys:
When we were almost through with touring the house, we were ready for some sustenance. It had been amazing but we were hungry (having had very light breakfasts and no lunch), So by the time we made telephonic contact with Rosa to coordinate meeting her and her family, we were ready for some food. It was almost tea time and they looked forward to tea and cake—but we wanted something more savory. We were browsing in the gift shop from where I bought a book on the house and gardens (so that I could read more about the history of the house at my leisure, once I returned home to Bombay)
.So, despite the fact that the house was so breathtaking, the best part of the outing for us was meeting our friends, Rosa and Matt Fradley, who live nearby and joined us there in the afternoon with their teenaged sons, Daniel and Jacob, and their dog, Charlotte. What a happy group we made as we sat outside overlooking the vast green stretch of parkland and were treated by them to hot chocolate, delicious cheese scones with butter and onion relish and cake.
Touring the Gardens:
Later, Rosa led us on a terrific walk through the Kitchen Garden and the sprawling acreage punctuated by follies in the form of bridges and temples and well-established oak and maple trees whose foliage was beginning to turn copper and gold as we bent under their boughs. We loved the many follies in the shape of Greek temples and curvaceous bridges (all classical features of English estates). There were also espaliered apple and pear trees in the kitchen gardens and many of them actually had miniature apples on then—which, I understand are still used in the kitchens of the cafeteria today.
We thoroughly enjoyed our time together with the Fradleys including the long walk back to the parking lot, right across Capability Brown’s landscaped parkland as the house receded into the distance and allowed us to take many pictures of a piece of English countryside that is unique and amazing.
Once in their car, we realized that we had about 8 minutes before our train drew into the station. We made it by the skin of our teeth because Matt knew the way well and was a skillful driver. It brought an end to our wonderful day together—certainly one of the highlights of this trip for us!
Seeing London By Night:
An hour later, we were back at Liverpool Street Station where our day trip had begun. Twilight was already falling gently upon the East End and we decided to have something to eat—a sort of pre-dinner snack as we had told our friend, Bande Hasan that we would have dinner at home with him today. Hence, I suggested we go into Gregg’s so that we could taste their famous Sausage Rolls—these are pork sausages wrapped in puff pastry. Apparently, they are a very popular lunch box addition and millions of them are sold all over the UK every day. We got a sausage roll each, which we munched on the bus that took us right across London from the East End to the West. We were able to see the main landmarks (from the Bank of England and Mansion House) to Farringdon and Fleet Street and then through Piccadilly Circus and Green Park. We thoroughly enjoyed this part of our day as we had a chance to see London By Night.
Indian Dinner with Our Host in Paddington:
And since we reached home at a decent hour (it had just gone 9.00 pm), we were able to join our friend for dinner. He gets really delicious food from the Indian sub-continent delivered to his home each week from a famous restaurant called ‘Royal Nawab’ and indeed, we had lamb seekh kebabs with mint chutney and parathas for starters, Chicken Biryani and Lamb Rogan Josh (a really delicious thick curry) with salad for our mains. For dessert, there was kheer (really delicious) and Sainsbury’s Tiramisu which I always buy when I am in the UK and with a little bit eaten each evening, I am a happy camper. So indeed, it as a meal fit for royalty and we ate well.
And on that happy note, another lovely day in London came to an end. We had such a splendid day that I am really so glad we planned to have a day out. We could not have chosen better.
Until tomorrow, cheerio…