Showing posts with label St. Andrew's Churchyard Bandra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label St. Andrew's Churchyard Bandra. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 7, 2019

Running Errands, A Visit to St. Andrew-By-The-Sea and An Evening Spent at a Cyber Café


Friday, August 2, 2019
Bombay

Running Errands, A Visit to St. Andrew-By-The-Sea and An Evening Spent at a Cyber Café

     Namaste from Bombay!

Clearing, Cleaning, Trawling, Culling:
     I am getting used to the novelty of waking up in Dad’s home (the home of my teenage years onwards) where the sounds are different although there is still bird song. Breakfast was a chappati which I ate with mango jam and coffee. I then decided to create some room by taking some of Russel’s books and magazines that have been in the loft for so long out of there (to be disposed of) and replacing them with others that have accumulated in the cabinets. This has freed up space in the cabinet. Magazines that were piled in the living room were then placed in the cabinet! This is the situation that loved ones have to encounter when faced with someone who has OCD (Obsessive Compulsive Disorder)—which Russel has (from everything I have observed). Rohit gave me a hand putting things up and that was great.
     Also in an attempt to free up space in the different storage cabinets of Dad’s place, I went through a really old suitcase that had been placed under the bed and found it full of the most unspeakable junk.  The only things I salvaged and retained from there was a diary belonging to my maternal grandmother (she had a variety of addresses of people she had worked with in it), a diary belonging to my maternal Uncle Henry (it was full of the lyrics of Hindi songs!) and a pair of binoculars (in rather rusty shape) that my Dad told me he used to take along when he went to the Brabourne Stadium to watch cricket matches! Just imagine! They are truly field glasses. I had no idea that my Dad used to actually attend cricket matches! It is amazing how much one learns from a probing into the detritus of one’s parents’ past.
     I then went through a cabinet containing books (paperbacks) that I used to carry with me to read on the long flights to India and during my stay in India. There were about 20 such paperbacks and I texted my friend Nafisa who had told me to pass on any books to her that I wished to discard. She told me she would love to have them. I put them in a giant bag and she will pick them up when she returns from a short trip she is currently taking. Doing that freed up two shelves of space in that cabinet. I also have a bag of books for the library of Bandra Gym and I discarded a whole lot of book that were eaten by silver fish—a perpetual problem in India as silver fish thrive in damp conditions. Tomorrow I shall start on some other cabinets with the idea of freeing space.
            I then received a message from Herman, my friend the amateur historian, telling me that he was taking a Spanish friend of his to the church of St. Andrew-By-The-Sea for a tour of the interior. I had told him that I was interested in accompanying them if it took place. But first, I needed to get to the church office to book a Thanksgiving Mass for the eve of my departure from Bombay. I really did want to offer a Mass for all blessings received this year. It has been a terrific year for me, work-wise, and in terms of my ability to help my family members. Plus, with the Lord and His Blessed Mother answering our prayers for Russel and allowing me to return home to the States with a greater sense of comfort than I have felt for months, I really did want to offer a Massof gratitude for all favors received.

Caught In A Rainstorm:
            I carried my umbrella (just in case) although it was very dry when I left Dad’s place. Then, quite suddenly, while I was en route to the church, great, fat, raindrops fell on me and even before I could quite open my (already damaged) umbrella, the downpour was so copious and the wind so fierce that I actually had to stand under a tree (as there was no other shelter anywhere) and hope it would be a passing shower.  No such luck! With the fury of the wind, another spoke of my umbrella broke—mind you, this is the umbrella of whose praises I was singing just a little while ago! It is the Nautica umbrella that had been presented to me by my English friends in Connecticut, ten years ago, when I was leaving to live in the UK. I never used it there, but boy, have I used it here in Bombay! Now I absolutely have to find an umbrella repair man (and apparently they are a dime a dozen in Bombay!). I really have to splurge on a good umbrella when I am in London. I have always hankered after a solid umbrella from John Smith And Sons, “Stick Dealers” at Bloomsbury in London. They make walking sticks, canes and umbrellas and although each one costs a small fortune (they actually engrave your umbrella with a monogram, if you so wish), they are supposed to last a lifetime. With the fury of the Bombay monsoon though…I rather doubt that claim!  
After a while (a good 15 minutes under the tree), the wind calmed down and I was actually able to complete my walk to the church. At the church office, I met Norma, a family friend who is the secretary. She booked me in, took Rs. 50 from me and gave me a receipt. I sat and chatted with her for a while although she was busy and had to continue with her work. Herman called to tell me that he was at the church gate in his van and was ready to pick me up—but he suggested I wait until the downpour eased—it continued in this manner almost through the entire day.

A Tour of St. Andrew-By-The-Sea with Herman:
      After a while, I did reach the van and we did start our journey to St. Andrew’s. Herman has made quite a study of the church’s history and was instrumental in bringing out a book on the church that he and Vinita had presented me at dinner last night. He told us about the early history of Santa Ana, the church that has built by the white Portuguese colonials, in Bandra (close to where Bandra Station now stands). But after they converted so many Koli fisherfolk (the original East Indians) to Catholicism, they too started worshipping in the same church.  The Portuguese began objecting to their presence in the church as they smelled of fish! And so they decided to build another church for them close to the waterfront where their shacks were located and where their catches were cleaned. This became St. Andrew’s Church and the year was 1616.  
            The rain continued to pour down in buckets as we went inside the church to admire the glorious Baroque-style altars—the main reredos (or main altar) which, Herman said, dates from the mid-1800s and the twin side-altars.  Recent refurbishment has resulted in lavish gilding on the altars which are truly stunning. He also drew attention to the choir loft (which was a new addition—in the 1960s). He told us that the statues in the niches on the altar date from the medieval to the 19th centuries. Of course, all of this information was passed on to us while we looked at the decorative features inside. We were sorry to hear that the marvelous frescoes that were in the style of Murillo were painted over, at some stage, by a parish priest who did not value them. Probably, a layer of whitewash will have to be stripped off to reveal the treasure underneath. Sadly, funds are not available to carry out the refurbishment—nor does it seem as if parish priests wish to undertake such lengthy and costly projects.
     It was still coming down in a steady incessant stream when we left the church and Herman dropped me home. It was nice making the acquaintance of Peter who is Belgian and whose uncle was the much-revered Spaniard Fr. Macinet who gave his life for the Jesuit missions in Nasik. He has come down to India for a brief period to participate in the memorial service for his uncle in Nasik. Since I discovered that he was from Ghent in Belgium, I had the chance to speak French to him—which is always fun.

Clearing Up Indoors:
     Once home, I dried myself (as I’d had a right royal soaking because one more spoke from my umbrella had broken in the rainstorm!) and then sat with Dad to have lunch. Lunch was chicken mince, cutlets, cabbage and a chapatti—Dad also receives his meals from Valerie. As everyone nodded off for an afternoon siesta, I did so too. When I awoke, I used Rohit’s help to put a few of my things up on Dad’s loft: my electric kettle, my microwave oven, my table lamp, my stainless steel waste-paper basket/garbage bin (which were the few things I had needed when I first set up house, a year ago). I made a list of the things I was leaving behind so that I never need to bring or buy them again.

At the Cyber Café:
     When that was done, I decided to go out and get some work done on my computer at the cyber café as there is no internet connection in Dad’s house. I went to The Bagel Shop, which is a very cute and very popular coffee shop just one block from Dad’s building and which is very popular with expats as they sit there all day on their laptops. Sadly, there was no internet service there today—no idea what technical glitch caused this. But with no choice, I walked over to Jay, my photocopier, and there I got the work I wanted done: Dad needed a banking KYC (Know Your Customer) form printed out for him (I got him two copies), I needed to print out my air ticket for my return home, I caught up with some email to NYU, etc. Subhash is supposed to come and install an internet connection…but until this happens, I shall have to use the cyber cafe.

Cancelled Plans:
As it turns out, I was able to do this because my plans for the evening had been cancelled. I was supposed to take the Principal of St. Xavier’s College, Dr. Rajendra Shinde, and my Coordinator at the United States-India Education Foundation, Dr. Ryan Pereira, for dinner to the Copper Chimney restaurant. This was after I had attended an opening reception for a new exhibition on the work of V.S. Gaitonde, one of the most famous of contemporary Indian artists. He was one of the members of the famous Progressive Artists Group of the 1950s and 60s and there is a retrospective of his work that has just been installed at the Shivaji Museum. My friend Shahnaz’s daughter, Azra, who is an artist herself, was supposed to accompany me to this opening. But then, Raju Shinde emailed me to say that he was not feeling well and wanted to reschedule our dinner and perhaps it was just as well as the rain was quite alarming in its intensity and made me wonder whether or not I should keep our date. When Raju pulled out, it was a no-brainer. I texted Azra to tell her that I would not be going to the opening after all.
This left me the evening free. I shall try to catch the exhibition early next week when I go again to the city to meet some friends before my departure from Bombay.  
            Neither Dad nor I went for Mass today. Instead, we said our family rosary and then got down to having dinner—more of our lunch. I had a quiet evening with my laptop before I went to bed at about 10.00 pm.
     Until tomorrow…

Saturday, November 24, 2018

Drafting my Christmas Essay and a Historical Walk Around Bandra's Churches

Saturday, November 24, 2018
Bombay

Drafting my Christmas Essay and a Historical Walk Around Bandra's Churches

     Namaste from Bombay!
     November is closing in and with it comes the realization that I have not yet drafted my annual Christmas essay for publication in The Examiner--a Bombay Catholic best-selling weekly--to which I have contributed a 'holiday' article for as long as I can remember. Finding an idea that works is always the biggest challenge--once inspiration hits, the words flow. The idea took its time hitting me this year... but thankfully, it did whack me in the head just before the submission deadline of Nov 30!
     I woke up, drafted a blog post, washed, dressed and headed to the gym for a one-hour workout.  Then, I went straight to the fruit monger to buy apples for my muesli breakfast that followed. I showered and sat down to draft my essay and it took me the entire morning.
      I was done with a first draft as lunch beckoned. I ate it whilst watching Leap Year--I am now really into Netflix movies!--shrimp and pumpkin curry, white pumpkin and cutlets with a guava for dessert. Back to my laptop to revise the article, I did so until a nap urgently called my name.  Twenty minutes later, I was revising again until it came time to leave for my walk--for I had signed up for a Celebrate Bandra Festival event--a historic walk around 'The Churches of Bandra'.

Taking a Historic Walk:
     The walk began at 4.00 pm at the gate of St. Peter's Church where a group of about 15 people had gathered. It was led by David Cardoz, a local architect, who told us briefly about the architect, one Henricks, a local boy made good, who was taken with designing the new church building in 1937 (the older one had dated from the 1880s).  By 1939, he was all done and dusted--a truly unimaginable feat today!
     Inside, he pointed out architectural details and one decorative element--a three-dimensional marble plinth carved in bas-relief depicting Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper--a gift from General Franco of Spain who heard that a church was being built in Bombay.  To curry favor with the Jesuits, he sent two such plinths--expecting one to get damaged in transit.  Both survived the long sea voyage (the second is installed in the altar at Mount Mary's Church).  This was perhaps the most interesting historical material I learned on the entire tour that had attracted a vast number of non-Catholics who spent most of the tour asking questions that had no connections with history or with churches--"What is the difference between Mangloreans, Goans and East Indians?"
     Give me a break! I was hopping with frustration by the end of it.  While David was adept at pointing out architectural aspects, not much emphasis was given to the decorative elements that were staring us in the face--such as the gorgeous plaster of Paris rondels on the ceiling (in imitation of those to be found in European churches) or the double-galleried construction (similar to Anglican churches in Europe and Congregational churches in America).
     Orders were taken for snack bags--veg or non-veg--and Rs. 100 changed hands per person as we trooped out to walk down Hill Road to get to the seafront to St. Andrew's Church. There, we paused in the graveyard outside to discuss why Catholics are not offended by treading feet over the grave stones of their dead! Clearly, our tour guides (Cornel Rodrigues, another architect) were not in any way prepared for such questions.  Even the issue of how East Indians got their name sounded questionable to me--and I intend to ask my friend Ashley D'mello, a walking historian on East Indians, to enlighten me on this issue, once and for all. Does it have to do with their being original Catholics from Bombay as opposed to those from Mangalore and Goa? Does it have to do with their having worked for the British East India Company?
     Inside St. Andrew's, we paused to admire the glorious medieval elements such as two wooden carved plaques (in the style of my favorite Flemish ecclesiastical wood carver Viet Stoss), the gilded pulpit whose door and staircase are missing, the gorgeous refurbished reredos (altar piece) with its interspersed Medieval and Renaissance statuary and the museum, located in the organ loft, that is kept locked.  I would simply love to go into it and explore the pieces at my leisure.
     I had to leave by 6.00 as the group walked off to Mount Mary Church. I would love to see these tours done in a far more organized fashion--this was much too ad hoc for my liking with sundry (stupid) questions asked at every juncture. Participants should be told to ask questions related to history, architecture and decorative arts alone--not to Catholic theology which the guides were clearly ill-equipped to answer: "What is the significance of the keys in St Peter's hands?" and "Why was the Baptismal font kept outside a church in a Baptistry instead of being placed inside (as is found nowadays?"
     I raced home, changed for church and then joined Dad for 7.00 pm Mass after a brief visit with Russel as I will not be able to attend morning mass tomorrow--another historic walk to Bandra Fort is on the cards. I was delighted to see my friend Sharon from Toronto in church. Llew and I and our friends Sylvia and Dolly had visited her home in Canada earlier this year.  She has come to Bombay to help her mother nurse her father who has just gone through surgery. I will be accompanying Dad to visit him soon.
     Back home, I made a drink and sipped it with blue cheese and crackers before serving myself dinner and continuing with Leap Year. With Matthew Goode (whom I realize I rather like!) and Amy Adams, it is a delightful rom-com set in Ireland--how could it not be a blast? Really surprised I had not heard of it before.
     It was after midnight when I fell asleep--deeply grateful to the Lord and content about another nice productive day in Bombay.
     Until tomorrow...      

Saturday, November 3, 2018

A Crazy Sort of (All Souls) Day!

Friday, November 2, 2018
Bombay

A Crazy Sort of (All Souls) Day!

     Today was the sort of day that was chopped up into neat segments to make way for a number of items that needed sorting. Awake at 5.30 am, I blogged, caught up with email and Twitter and decided to skip the gym.  I re-read drafts of my October newsletter and decided to mail it off soon.

Off to St. Andrew's Churchyard:
     However, since today is November 2 and All Souls Day, I decided to join Dad on his annual pilgrimage to my Mum's niche which is located in the churchyard of St. Andrew's at Bandra, where her remains lie lapped by the soft waves of the grey Arabian Sea. My Aunt Anne and Uncle Alex (my late godparents) lie in niches close by.  I had never been to an Indian cemetery on All Soul's Day and I have to say it was an experience of sorts.
     First of all, the day is marked in a huge way among Bombay's Catholics. Multiple masses are held in local churches as everyone goes to Mass to pray for their dear departed. The 7.00 am Mass was going on when Dad and I arrived at the church premises.  I was amazed to see that people were pouring out of every entrance of the church. Flower sellers were doing brisk business outside the church gates as they sold flower garlands made of orange marigolds and red roses. These, with lilies, made up perfect autumnal colors that were appropriate for the season.
     Dad told me that in addition to flowers, people also decorate their graves and niches with candles; however, this year, the church appealed to its parishioners to refrain from lighting candles in an attempt to curtail air pollution. Hence, while formerly the graves were carpeted by lighted candles, today, there were only a few--I saw no more than half a dozen.  People had heeded the church's call superbly. But the graves had to be seen to be believed.  Clearly, the next of kin of those who lay quietly in repose in this spot might have stayed up half the night bestowing their loving creativity on the graves.  They were all beautiful. We threaded our way through the crowds and arrived at the graveyard.
     As Dad is very familiar with the spot in which Mum lies, he led me there directly.  I put the two garlands around Mum's niche--one on behalf of Dad, one of behalf of Mum's three children (Mum was a great lover of flowers, plants, nature and gardening and had a beautiful container garden which is now only a shadow of its former self). Next, we paused at the niche of my godparents and then at the niche of one of Dad's closest friends, Joe Rodrigues and his wife Celine.  We said prayers, offered flowers and filled our minds with lovely memories of these loving and generous relatives and friends whom we continue to remember with the utmost love and affection years after they have left us.  Although I am not usually one for rituals, I have to say that I think the practices and customs associated with this day are both moving and therapeutic.

Buying Breakfast:
     On the way back, Dad took me to a small wayside stall that served puri bhaji, a traditional Indian breakfast, that was being made freshly in front of us and served (like British fish and chips) in newspaper cones hot off the stove. Dad took some home for Russel and himself and I decided to buy one lot for myself.  With hot coffee, it was a truly tasty and very filling breakfast that consisted of 8 superb puris and a small portion of spiced potatoes--all for the pricey sum of Rs. 10 a serving!!! It simply beggared belief.

Back to Work followed by Lunch with a Friend:
     I got back to work for the next couple of hours. I did email off my October newsletter and then sat down to re-read and revise my essay on the 'New Cosmopolitans' for publication on the NYU Liberal Studies blog.  I found a few more typos but after about an hour of editing, it was ready to be emailed to New York.
     This left me enough time to jump into the shower and get dressed. Just then I received a call from my friend Celia who was meeting me for lunch at the Bandra Gym next door. The air-conditioned restaurant was closed for a couple of weeks as a new air-conditioning system is installed. We sat in the corridor facing the badminton court and ordered chicken lassoon (garlic) kebabs with green mint chutney, a serving of Pasta with Pesce (Seafood--which included prawns, calamari and fish fingers) and a Greek Salad that was simply fabulous with wonderful pieces of creamy feta in it. Both of us had virgin mojitos to drink--basically lemonade with a lot of lime and crushed mint added to it.
     It was grand to catch up with Celia who is a very old friend of mine--we did our Masters in English together, many years ago, after which we both became professors in Bombay colleges--she at Ruia and me at Jai Hind College. We have stayed close friends over the years and really did enjoy catching up. After lunch, she came to see my place as she was keen to find out what sort of a place I had found to live in.  I switched the air-conditioning on for her which was a huge relief.

Off to Procure a Number at Holy Family Hospital:
     However, fifteen minutes later, I had to push her out as I headed to my next appointment--I had to reach Holy Family Hospital by 4.00 pm so that I could pick up a number for our intended visit with Russel's orthopedist, later in the evening. Celia went off to Crosswords, a book shop down the road in which she busied herself until her husband Eddie joined her, while I walked briskly to the hospital.

Off to Mass:  
     I picked up the number and got back home again for a short nap. Since lunch had finished late, I did not have any tea. Instead, I went to Dad's to pick him up as the two of us were headed to the earlier Mass--there were two evening masses in our church and we thought we would catch the 5. 45 pm one. That was exactly what we did. I found that Dad was exhausted from the various tasks that had unexpectedly descended upon him today and which he had undertaken without asking for my help. Thus, after Mass, as we had about 45 minutes before our next appointment at the doctors (to which he insisted on accompanying me even though I offered to go myself), I insisted he have a lie-down.  He complied while I chatted with Russel and kept him company.

Off to the Hospital Again:
     At 7.15, we left by rickshaw and arrived at the hospital where we had a very fruitful meeting with Dr. Derick D'Lima.  He looked at Russel's x-rays and told us that his leg would need to remain in the fiberglass cast for at least another month or two.  However, he told us to bring Russel back at the end of November to change the plaster so as to avoid any infection. Thus, our next appointment with him in the Endoscopy Department of the hospital will be November 26. That done, Dad and I crossed the street to the American Express Bakery so that I could pick up some savory goodies for Anil and Ninaz as I was headed to their place for dinner--I ended up buying them 2 Quiche Lorraines and 2 quiches with spinach and mushroom. Then, we looked for a rickshaw to take us home.

Dinner with Friends:
     I was off for dinner to the home of my friends Anil and Ninaz who had asked me to join them for a very informal Friday evening meal.  It is always a great pleasure to see them as we enjoy chatting about everything under the sun.  Anil put a lovely gin and tonic into my hand which I gratefully accepted as I really needed to unwind after what had been a lovely, busy and very productive week. For dinner, we ordered in thin crust, super crispy pizza with barbecued chicken, sun dried tomatoes, rocket and a couple of other delicious ingredients plus a serving of Chicken wings--all superb.  For dessert, there was a wonderful dark chocolate covered chikki studded with almonds called Chocolove that is locally made. I loved it so much that Ninaz insisted I take a bar home with me! It was a simply brilliant evening and a grand way for me to ease into my weekend.
     Anil and Ninaz dropped me home by rickshaw at 12. 20 pm after which I brushed and flossed my teeth and went straight to bed.
     Until tomorrow...