Bewitching Bhutan Day Four: Journey from Thimphu to Punakha with Sight-Seeing En route: Dorchula Pass, Druk Wangyal Khang Zhang (108) Chortens; Chimi Lakhang (The Temple of Fertility) and Punakha Dzong (Fortress)

Monday, May 11, 2026

Bewitching Bhutan!

Day Four: Journey from Thimphu to Punakha with Sight-Seeing En route: Dorchula Pass, Druk Wangyal Khang Zhang (108) Chortens; Chimi Lakhang (The Temple of Fertility) and Punakha Dzong (Fortress)

Another night in Thimphu, Bhutan’s modern capital, saw us awake in time for showers and breakfast in Hotel Migmar. In the restaurant in the lobby, we found hordes of people as large tour groups use this space. The lobby is beautifully decorated with stylized Bhutanese interior decoration, including several layers of dentil molding, that is then vividly painted with recognizable Buddhist motifs. The breakfast buffet offered Indian and Western choices (we chose masala omlettes with toast which we fashioned into sandwiches)--poha, sheera, fresh fruit, tea and coffee. Replete with our big meal, we were fortified for the travel and sightseeing that lay ahead.

En route to Punakha, after we had left the precincts of Thimphu valley behind, we climbed ever higher into the mountains, experiencing, once again, the thick vegetation comprising of trees that were abloom with spring foliage and flowers. There were the regular fund of hairpin bends, slim occasional waterfalls and concrete bridges that spanned deep ravines and valleys. There are no ugly billboards on the highway and only the occasional reminder, “Clean Bhutan Green Bhutan” reminds the motorist to maintain the pristine beauty of the mountains. The air is clean, green and serene—a true natural tonic for the lungs

It was not long before Dil informed us that we would be approaching one of the highest mountain passes in the world—Dorchula Pass. It was here that we would make our first stop to see a very popular tourist site.

Exploring Druk Wangyal Khang Zhang (108 ) Chortens:

This site is popular for many reasons: it is historically important, it is architecturally striking and is naturally beautiful. In a large car park, vehicles came and went in uniform order, Bhutanese guides, clad in their traditional outfits, milled around chatting informally in groups, visitors stopped for the rest room or a coffee in the adjoining café and many climbed the low mound ahead of us that wound around in a cobbled path through three tiers. Strung along the pathway were stupas or chortens in an appealing uniform design that commemorated the deaths of those brave Bhutanese soldiers who had died fighting an Assamese insurgency having taken refuge in 30 camps in Bhutan. These structures were the brain child of the Queen Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk who thought it necessary that their sacrifice should be commemorated. Their construction was completed in mid-2004 and they were later sanctified with religious rites soon after. The chortens (stupas) are red band or Khangzen chortens. They are striking because they increase in number and size as one climbs higher up the mound. In the center is a much larger chorten. I was under the impression that one could enter the central one, but I was mistaken. It is an imposing structure but it is solid and has no entrance.

What is most appealing about the chortens is their design—their colors of black, white and red sees each one topped with filigree-like lace tin gilded decoration that gives them a majestic impact. There are 45 on the lowest level, 36 in the middle and 27 at the very top. Ingenious access makes it very easy to reach the top although it is a steady climb. Surrounding this site are mountains with mist still clinging to them. Opposite the chortens is a temple, built in stylized Buddhist manner—but to access it, you need to climb another slope. Not many tourists go to the temple although it is popular with local Buddhist worshippers.

Once we took our fund of pictures, we made our way to the café for a much-needed coffee and to use the restrooms and before long, we were in our van and on our way again, Our route actually took us along the Dorchula Pass which we could not see very clearly as the entire valley was shrouded in mist. But we drove on, enjoying the passing scenery and taking in the sights of hundreds of prayer flags that were strung along the highway, particularly at dangerous points that represents blind curves. The flags are always strung in five colors: blue for sky, white for clouds, red for fire, green for water and yellow for earth. Many of them are highly decorative and aside from symbols, are covered with Buddhist scripture and pictures of leading figures.

Arrival at Chimi Lakhang:

It was not long after that we arrived in the precincts of a little village hamlet called Yowakha in which the most striking aspect was the decoration of the walls of every dwelling and shop front. The figures turned out to be phalluses represented in the most graphic way I have ever seen—a symbol of the celebration of human reproductive capabilities. Indeed, we had arrived at the site of Chimi Lakhang (Temple), one of the most celebrated and unique of Buddhist venues.

Chimi Lakhang (or the Temple of Fertility) is a monastery and temple in Punakha District. After we parked our van, we realized that to access the temple, one needed to climb a hill that was well marked, along a stone pathway. On both sides were exuberantly flowering trees and many varieties of succulents and cacti including prickly pear cactus (with which I had become well acquainted in Morocco for its miraculous power to keep facial skin youthful and wrinkle-free). As the four of us climbed to the top (Blossom elected to sit this one out at the base of the hill), we enjoyed taking in the sights of this flora

Once at the top, our guide Dil, filled us in with the information we needed to make sense of the site and its structure. He told us that the site was blessed by Drukpa Kunley (1455-1529) who also built a chorten on the site. Lama Kunley had subdued a demon of Dorchu La with his “magic thunderbolt of wisdom” and trapped it in a rock at a location close to where the chorten now stands. He came to be known as the “Mad Saint” or “Divine Madman” for his unorthodox teaching of the practice of Buddhism by singing, humor and outrageous behavior which amounted to being bizarre or shocking and evoking sex. It was he who popularized the custom of decorating walls, floors, etc. with phallic symbols. In course of time, this lama and his site became known for their fertility rituals and were frequented by couples seeking conception. In fact, there is a thick album inside the temple (which we visited later) which contains pictures of the vast number of couples who, through the years, found wish-fulfillment after visiting this temple and carrying out the rituals—including pictures of the children that were the result of such miracles.

When we did eventually enter the temple, after leaving footwear outside, we were told not to take any photographs. A gigantic statue of Lama Kunley is in the center surrounded by other important Buddhist deities and the stylized iconography of the Buddhist religion: lotuses, flowers, animals, birds, etc. This altar is also the receptable of the original wooden phallus that Kuney brought to Bhutan from Tibet. It is the most sacred object in this temple and is used in fertility rituals regularly. Women seeking to conceive are told to walk with it on their backs and take several rounds encircling the altar and temple. Indeed, in Bhutan, symbols of the erect penis are used everywhere to drive away the evil eye and malicious gossip.

When we emerged from the dark interior of the temple into blazing sunlight, we made our way to the row of prayer wheels that line one exterior wall. We turned those wheels while walking in a long line and then gradually returned along the gentle sloping hill pathway towards our van. However, we were attracted to the shops with their many handicrafts. It was the first time we would enter the shops or find the time to browse in them. All sorts of Buddhist handicrafts from expensive thangkas (religious wall hangings that are painted or embroidered), prayer wheels, jewelery, textiles in the form of scarves, bags, purses, etc. as well as any number of phalluses in varied forms of decoration (most painted or lacquered) were available for sale and I found a nice pair of ear-rings in this spot. Other members of our group also did a little bit of shopping before we piled back into our van for the final lap into Punakha.

Arrival in Punakha and Visit to Punakha Dzong:

Punakha has strategic and historic importance. It was the capital and the seat of government until 1955. It is 72 kms from Thimphu and takes 3 hours along a motorable mountainous highway to access from the modern capital. It is at a much lower elevation than Thimphu, which explains why it is much warmer than Thimphu.

After we left our van in the car park, after having spotted the architecturally striking Dzong (or fortress) for quite a while along the snaking road that leads to its entrance, we followed our guide Dil to the gate and discovered, to our delight, that we had to cross over a beautiful stylized wooden bridge to get over to the other bank. The raging river below us flowed into the distant mountains and made for some lovely photo ops. While crossing the bridge too, we took several photographs all the while sighing at the beauty presented by the entire bank of flowering jacaranda trees as we had arrived at the right time—Spring—when these beautiful lavender flowers lend their color to the scene.

we arrived on the other side, we were aware of the fact that Tibetan lamas or monks frequent this spot as it is constructed in keeping with Tibetan Buddhist traditions. Punakha Dzong was constructed in 1637 and is known as the Palace of Great Happiness. It’s location was especially chosen because of its close proximity to the Mo Chu and Po Chu rivers and because it stands at the center of some of the most fertile agricultural land in the country, known for its vast rice-farming enterprise. It is the monastic headquarters of Bhutan’s most important religious figures and a frequent spot to which the Bhutanese royal family comes for ritualistic worship and national ceremonies. It houses a collection of the most sacred relics of the country’s religious practices, but these are located in the lakhangs (or temples) deeper inside the structure (and remain closed to the public).

But to get into the fortress, you need to climb up a single flight of really steep steps that can be daunting for the elderly. Once we accomplished that task, we found ourselves in the first courtyard—for Punakha Dzong is not only the most beautiful and significant of the dzongs in Bhutan, but it is also unique in that he contains three separate courtyards (as against two in most other dzongs). The first one is large and spacious, surrounded by buildings constructed in uniform style and decorated in unique color--red, yellow, orche, black--seen against the stark white walls of the structure. There are colonnaded corridors (similar to Gothic medieval cloisters) where, I would imagine, the monks take their exercise. There is a large white chorten (stupa) with a gold finial right in the center and a spreading banyan tree that dominate this space.

Dil sat us down as a group at this point and explained to us that each of the courtyards have a different function. The first one is used for military exercises and the annual festivals for which Bhutan is famed. Once you take in the splendor of this courtyard, you are directed to the far left end of the space where, in a rather nondescript corner, is an important glass-covered shrine housing items related to Tsochen, Queen of the Naga spritis, and decicated to snake-worship. We then passed through a very narrow corridor to enter into the second courtyard. This houses a very tall tower called the Utse with more steep stairs leading to the top. This is out of bounds to tourists and all we could do was content ourselves looking at the decorative painted elements on the façade which, once again, follows the uniform set of colors and patterns. We posed here for pictures before we followed another narrow passageway that took us into the third courtyard.

This courtyard is the most important as it is open to visitors, offers a variety of visual treats that made us take many photographs and contains a temple. In this temple are the remains of the terton, Pema Lingpa. As usual, we were quite stunned by the inside of the temple. No photography is permitted but it bore striking resemblance to the Buddhist Temple in Bylakuppe in Karnataka which we had visited last January (2025). It carries the same towering figures of Buddhist deities with Sakyamuni Buddha (Gautama) right in the center, flanked again by his aides, Guru Rimpoche and Zhabdrung that date from the 18th century. The walls, floors and ceiling are completely covered by Buddhist iconography in vivid colors while the main structure is held up by 54 pillars that also present scenes from the storied life of the Buddha. The floors are also covered with carpets and soft mattresses and visitors are welcome to lounge on them for a while in prayer or to take in the absolute wonders of the scene in front. Because there is simply so much to see, the eyes experience visual fatigue and it is for this reason that, after a while, all this magnificence blurs into one grand feeling of disbelief.

Once we left this final courtyard, we traced our steps back to the entrance. While passing the huge prayer wheel, we walked around to turn it and hear the striking bell. Then, very gingerly, we descended that steep flight of stairs, focusing completely on the task at hand. We reunited with Blossom who had waited patiently for us and then crossed the wooden cantilevered bridge, once again, to arrive at our van.

We then drove for another half an hour to arrive at our next hotel. It was charmingly located right in the midst of the mountains, far from the madding crowd. In fact, it was simply and suitably named the Zen Hotel. Once we passed through the main gated entrance, we found ourselves in a stark white courtyard whose only splash of color was a flowering deep pink bougainvillea. In the Reception (a small squat building), we picked up our keys and found that we had to get into another building (3 floors—no elevator) to find our room. Thankfully, they were all on the first floor—so all we had to do was climb one flight of stairs. Our rooms were equally plain—white walls, soft, serene bed linen, no wall hangings, paintings or any decoration. This was the Zen spirit. I peeped outside our window and discovered that we were on a very narrow road that curved around a mountain. I liked the fact that each of our hotels was in a different sort of location: it really did give us a taste of different Bhutanese landscapes and it was good to get away from urbanity into the verdant arms of emerald-clad mountains.

Winding Down for the Day in our Zen Hotel in Punakha:

As all our rooms were adjoining each other, we decided to meet in Blossom’s room (dual aspect and lovely single sofas and a coffee table) to enjoy peach wine, some nutty nibbles plus something we began to call ‘Octopus’ which we had picked up from the Centenary Bazaar in Thimphu. It was a savory snack, shaped like the tentacles of an octopus and it went really well with drinks. After much laughter and reminiscing about our day, we went down for dinner

Dinner was served in a lovely big dining area (restaurant) with a bar attached. There was a buffet there and many white tourists—the first we’d seen on our travels. As usual, we had soup, plus rice, roti, papad, pickle, a none-veg chicken curry dish, two vegetables (one is always potato and this was made with Bhutanese cheese), green salad (simply chopped up tomatoes, onions and cucumber) and tinned fruit with cream for dessert. By this point (as Indian cuisine is not my favorite), I grew tired of the same offerings and really longed for something else (but I am aware that since the majority of the tourists here are Indians with very unadventurous palates, they cater to their needs—so no complaints).

And filled again with lovely impressions of our day, we decided to hit the sack and return to the restaurant at 8.00 am for breakfast.

Until tomorrow, keep smiling…

Bewitching Bhutan! Day Three: Exploring the Treasures of Thimphu—Seated Buddha Point at Dordenma, Simply Bhutan Museum, Tarkin Preserve, Folk Heritage Museum, Centenary Market.

Sunday, May 10, 2026

Bewitching Bhutan

Day Three: Exploring the Treasures of Thimphu—Seated Buddha Point at Dordenma, Simply Bhutan Museum, Tarkin Preserve, Folk Heritage Museum, Centenary Market.

We awoke in our hotel room at Hotel Migmar after a good night’s slumber and, as is our wont, went straight to the window to survey the scene. Thimphu still lay asleep in quiet serenity. The main road outside was devoid of traffic at that early hour and, in the distance, the dark mountains arose, standing like strong sentinels to protect the city. It was time to shower, get dressed (warmly—it was going to be a frigid morning) and descend to the restaurant for breakfast where we met the rest of the members of our group.

Breakfast was a generous buffet of Western and Indian items. In addition to hard boiled eggs, there was puri bhaji, plus toast with jam and butter (standard elements of a tourist Bhutanese breakfast), plus fresh fruit, coffee and tea. In keeping with our travel adage of consuming a hearty breakfast, a light lunch and a substantial dinner, we helped ourselves liberally.

At 9.00 am, our driver Chilay arrived as did out guide, Dil, and we were off and away for a day of strenuous sightseeing. Our first stop was the spot that’s colloquially called Buddha Point—it is Thimphu’s most visited monument and perhaps the most well-known of all Bhutanese tourist sites.

Exploring Buddha Point or Seated Buddha Dordenma or Kuensal Phodrang:

The seated Buddha statue perched high on a mountain overlooking Thimphu is the world’s largest statue of its kind. Long before you actually reach the heights of this strategic mountain, you are able to see the statue for it is so prominent that is dominates the city’s skyline. To reach the statue, you take a long and winding motorable road that offers lovely views of a uniformly planned and constructed capital city that lacks any of the eyesores of most urban settlements: no ugly human habitations, no street lights, no jarring billboards or screeching advertisements. As we made our way to the top, we passed by the military headquarters and soon found ourselves following an official convoy, probably conveying an important minister to his next destination. We thought initially that we were behind a member of the royal family as many pedestrians stood in respectful attention as the car passed. But Dil, our guide, soon told us that it was a member of Parliament, probably making his way to the Fortress of official buildings that burrow in the valley.

When we did eventually get to the spot, they car park was full. We left the majority of our belongings in the van and carried along our phone-cameras only. There was a slight uphill climb to the peak of the mountain which, given the tourist season, was a bit chaotic. Vehicles wove in and out of the parking slots, guides (always male and always dressed impeccably, by the way, in the traditional ‘gho’ outfit, comprising a tartan-checked tunic with pure white cuffs on the long sleeves, knee-length dark socks and flat black shoes) were milling around and helping visitors negotiate their way to the top. At the imposing gate, we received closer views of the most imposing seated Buddha—and indeed it was a stupendous sight. Dil told us to remain seated on a low platform as he stood in a long and slow-moving line to obtain our tickets (for which, in the tour package we had purchased, we had to pay our own entry fees—Rs. 500). By the way, Indian currency is parallel tender in Bhutan and co-exists easily with Bhutanese Ngultrum (abbreviated as Nu and carrying impressions of the King on its paper versions). It was a very long time, more than half an hour, before Dil returned to us with our tickets. The wait offered us the opportunity to click pictures of a most arresting corner of Bhutan, to people watch and to marvel at the architectural design of the space.

To make our way to the entrance of the statue, we passed by at least a dozen gilded standing statues of divinities. They surrounded the high pedestal on which the Buddha (Sakyamuni, founder of Buddhism) is seated. Shot against the deep green mountains behind, they make striking pictures. As we headed closer to the entrance, the Buddha grew more sizeable (a height of 51.5 meters) and we were able to discern the tonal variations in the hollow brass statue that sits at a height of almost 3000 meters. A short flight of stairs then took us to the entrance, where in keeping with Buddhist customs, we were asked to put away our cameras, take off our caps/hats and sunglasses and maintain respectful silence. The inability to take pictures anywhere inside temples makes it necessary (and a bit frustrating) to commit all interior wonders to memory and, after a while, as one explores one temple after the other, their visual details blur into a muddle of staggering proportions.

As soon as we entered the sanctum sanctorum, we were struck as if by a thunderbolt. No amount of description on my part will do justice to what we saw before us. Every inch of wall was covered with the most exquisite frescoes as to leave us stunned. A multitude of pillars, richly embellished with gold decoration in a sort of spatial filigree, made the entire area appear palatial. The walls were covered with tiny cubicles in each of which was a miniature version of Sakyamuni Buddha in varied seated poses—each gesture signifying a different message as he attempted to attain Nirvana under the Bodhi Tree. It is hard to say how many hundreds of tiny Buddha statues encircle this space. The ceiling is heavily painted with Buddhist iconography that is simply arresting.

As we made our way deeper into the temple, we arrived at three massive statues in close proximity: in the center is Buddha Sakyamuni flanked by Guru Padmasambava (the Guru who is recognized because he sits on a lotus throne—Padma meaning lotus) and Guru Rimpoche (who is revered for bringing Buddhism to Bhutan). They are not just massive but lavishly gilded and decorated in the most elaborate manner with tin and clay figurines that surround them. I also became introduced to a unique form of Bhutanese art called dough craft—this involves the fashioning of varied shapes out of dough (just flour and water, later dried). They are used to construct sculptural figures that are either left as they are or painted in vivid colors and usually placed near the religious statues in a temple. Once again, I found myself feeling sorry that I could take no pictures as these items are so photogenic and so impossible to commit entirely to memory.

Once we had taken in the wonders of these intricate altars, we left the temple precincts and made our way back to our van—but not before we circled the entire complex on foot. The space comprises generous proportions with a flight of stairs at the back that take one down to the base. At every stage, the statue of the Buddha provides photographic opportunities, and we took many pictures as a group and as couples.

Eventually, we reached our van with the quiet satisfaction of having witnessed one of the most compelling sights in Bhutan. When we asked Dil where we were headed next, we drove by the King’s Memorial Chorten (Stupa), a large white structure by the wayside with a striking golden spire and bells. Unlike most other stupas, there are no human remains concealed within this structure. Only the Druk Gyalpo’s photo in ceremonial dress adorns a hall on the ground floor. We did not park our van or enter this monument, but were satisfied with merely photographing it from the outside before we moved on. It must be remembered that these two monuments were meant to be covered by us yesterday—but having been detained by Immigration formalities, we had lost a lot of time and needed to make up for it.

Exploring the Open-air, Interactive Museum known as ‘Simply Bhutan’:

Simply Bhutan is a big attraction among tourists in Thimphu (especially Indian tourists who are keen to ‘do’ things when they travel). After parking our van, we walked a few meters to the entrance (Rs. 500 to enter) and found ourselves in a series of small, low buildings, each of which houses a different attraction. At the outset, we were introduced to the place (this time by pretty female guides) and offered a small dram of wheat wine. It tasted like neat gin and was quite startling to the uninitiated. We were then led in groups to a small door which opened into a courtyard. In this space, two young Bhutanese men were performing a harvest dance—Bhutan is highly agricultural and the nation’s calendar is punctuated by events that coincide with the four seasons and the natural rhythm of nature. We were also, at this point, taken to a hidden corner where we were introduced to the Bhutanese Buddhist practice of phallic-worship (also present in Hinduism, if less visible and exuberant). A number of large phalluses were housed in the corner and we were explained their significance—they are part and parcel of the fertility rites that are central to Buddhist practice in this part of the world—understandable, I suppose, in a country whose population is decreasing, unlike its more prolific neighbor, India.

We then passed by a corridor filled with large masks made of wood and vividly painted—the figures, both animal and human, feature in Buddhist stories. There was also a whole wall strung with varied stringed musical instruments which introduced us to Bhutan’s musical capabilities. On we went, past another small building, where we were introduced to the making of Bhutanese Butter Tea—a staple feature of the country’s daily diet. We became acquainted with the traditional long and deep butter churners that turn milk and cream into butter (used in the tea) and cheese (used in a variety of Bhutanese dishes). Kitchen utensils and implements lined the walls and shelves of this space in a rustic collection that took us into the humble homes of peasants.

Making the Acquaintance of Pema Tshering and his Incredible Handicrafts:

Leaving this space behind us, we moved into another small courtyard where a multitude of people had gathered to look at something—or someone. We discovered this person to be Pema Tshering, one of Bhutan’s best-known rock stars (as it were) for his unique abilities. Pema could have well languished, like so many of his disabled compatriots. But his birth affliction of cerebral palsy caught the attention of the late Queen Mother of Bhutan who took him under her wing. She recognized his unique artistic abilities and sponsored him to be trained in the incredible art of foot carving and painting. Over a period of six years, Pema achieved the skills necessary to use the toes of his feet exclusively to hold carving implements and paint brushes. With these, he creates wall hangings that he then paints in vivid colors to fashion one of a kind items to decorate the walls of your home.

Blossom had first become introduced to Pema, many years ago. He had piqued her curiosity and she had begun to read more about him as she works with the differently-abled in Kalpakkam, a small outpost outside Chennai. It was her dear wish to meet Pema in person and after she told us about him, all of us were interested in seeing him at work and, if it were not too prohibitively priced, buying a small souvenir to support his endeavors. Hence, we entered his little stall, watched him at work, saw him chatting with patrons and a Bhutanese female guide who interpreted for him and then ended up choosing wall carvings and paintings to take home with us. They were not outrageously priced (although they were more expensive than similar items we were to find in handicraft stores all over Bhutan). Pema was delighted to discover from Blossom that she had come to Bhutan only to meet him. He thanked us in Hindi (saying Shukriya) and offering to sign the items on the back that we had purchased. With our buys in our bags and with Blossom’s mission magnificently accomplished, we moved on.

Simply Bhutan Tour Continues:

Our next port of call was a vast hall in which we were seated around low tables and benches and invited to witness a live performance of traditional Bhutanese dance. We soon discovered that the movements are stylized, slow, graceful and simple and involve both men and women in uniform formations. As we watched, we were served cups of Butter Tea in which cracked rice was sprinkled and accompanied by little cups of sweetened rice. As I was hungry by this point, I must admit, I sampled them rather ravenously. Bhutanese music, played mainly on stringed instruments, provided soft accompaniment to the dance. At the end of it, onlookers were invited to join in on the floor to learn some of the steps themselves. We, however, having more to do, left at this point.

We were next treated to the delights of learning Archery, Bhutan’s national sport. The country has won Olympic medals for this event and continues to wow the world with its prowess. Each of us were given a turn to hold the bow, place the arrow correctly and try to hit the target ahead of us. If you hit the bull’s eye, you are rewarded with a customary dance performed by a few dancers. It was all good fun and every single one of us enjoyed the experience and thought that archery would be a good sport to take up. On the other side of this same courtyard, you could practice using strong magnets to fish out objects from a large basin of water. After watching for a little while, we decided to move on. There were still many items on our agenda and it was also almost 2 pm.

It was not long before we were told that two items on the agenda that we were really keen to see (The National Library and Archives of Bhutan and the Folk Heritage Museum) would be closed today as it was a Sunday. This was quite disappointing to all of us as we were really keen to discover the art, culture, society and religion of the Bhutanese as exhibited in their public spaces.

Lunch at the Folk Heritage Museum:

By his point in our travels, we were also tired of eating Indian food everywhere. All of us are adventurous foodies and we had looked forward to tasting traditional Bhutanese cuisine and had also done some research about it. We told Dil to take us to a place where we could try some typical Bhutanese food and he suggested the Folk Heritage Museum. Although the museum was closed, he did tell us that the restaurant attached to it (where traditional foods of Bhutan were served) would be a safe bet. This excursion also allowed us to enter the precincts of the Museum which we found to be open (we had received incorrect information from Dil) and for Rs. 700 per head, we’d be able to explore it. However, as we were hungry by this point, lunch was our first priority.

This meal turned out to be one of our least favorite. We opted for the non-veg set menu which offered us a choice of beef, chicken or fish. With each of us opting for a different protein, we had a variety. However, we were most disappointed by the preparation: aside from the chicken which appeared in a tasty thick gravy, the fish and beef were done to death. They were hard, unappetizing and quite tasteless as all the natural juices had been cooked right out of them. The accompaniments were not bad: we had stewed greens that resembled spinach but did not have the same taste or texture. The other items were ‘kewa dashi’ (potatoes in thick cheese sauce) and ‘emma dashi’ (this time made with dried red chillis, not fresh one, and so spicy that it was just impossible for any of us to eat it). There was also the thick, red Bhutanese rice which I find inedible, served with dal. But the chilli pickle served as a condiment was not too bad in minute quantities. Overall, the traditional Bhutanese meal was a damper to our spirits as we had been looking forward to it and realized that we had not chosen the best place to sample it. However, this stop allowed us to see what the Folk Heritage Museum looks like and although we declined to pay the extra Rs. 700 for a half hour tour of the interior, we did browse through the attached gift shop.

Visiting the Tarkin Preserve:

Our next port of call was the Tarkin Preserve which is another large attraction in Thimphu. We soon discovered that the tarkin—a result of cross-breeding a cow and a goat—has resulted in a rather peculiar-looking beast that is native to Bhutan and is found nowhere else. It is considered to be wild life and is not domesticated. To see it, the visitor needs to go to this preserve where a large herd of them, co-existing peacefully with other large beasts that look like yaks and a couple of sambhar deer, might be photographed and surveyed. In this peaceful pocket, these animals live quietly in the knowledge that there are no predators to worry about.

It took a bit of an uphill climb to get to the Preserve but the slope was not too steep and Dil gave us enough time to get there. Once in the precincts of the Preserve, we could see the animals in very large cages that gave them adequate space to move around at leisure. But aside from this sight, there is nothing much of significance in this visit and if anyone has time constraints, they would be well advised to drop this item from the agenda.

It was while we were at the Tarkin Preserve that the skies turned ominously dark and the distant rumble of thunder reached our ears. Dil informed us that it would soon start raining and remain wet for the rest of the evening. He suggested we go back to our hotel, but we had already felt deprived from having missed out on key items on our agenda and, instead, requested, him to take us to a shopping area where we could see how daily life was lived in Thimphu. In getting to this place, we passed by the Coronation Park, which is a beautifully laid out and contains statues and photographs of Bhutan’s string of kings. The country is very proud of its monarchy and its current royal family comprising of a very handsome king, his pretty wife, two sons and a little daughter. Their portraits are to be seen in most public places in Bhutan and indeed they make a charming focal point. However, as it was raining, we did not stop at the park, but carried on towards the Centenary Market.

Browsing through the Centenary Market:

The Centenary Market would be our last port of call today. Although it was not strictly on our agenda, we requested Dil to take us there. This was the benefit of having a small private group tour—we had the freedom to make our own decisions about where to go and what to do. The Centenary Market turned out to be a two-storied covered market filled with stalls selling fresh produce from the neighboring farms. It is frequented by the locals who do their shopping daily so that their food is fresh and seasonal.

But before we began our exploration of the wares, we stopped to have a coffee as the rain had brought along much colder weather. Our entire day in Thimpu was cold (especially in the morning on the high mountain tops) and we were grateful that we had packed a couple of warm clothing items to see us through it. Our cappuccinos, lattes and hot chocolate hit the spot and by the time we finished sipping them and laughing at our memories of the day, we were ready to begin browsing through the market.

We soon discovered that every stall sold pretty much the same produce. All items were very hygienically packed in see-through plastic wrap. Aside from the usual vegetables, there were mounds of fresh and dried chills, loads of honey made from the nectar of a variety of flowers, mountains of spices, both whole and ground, teas of all sorts and flavors, etc. etc. It was fascinating to take in all these sights, but after a while, the sameness became monotonous and we decided to leave.

We called for our driver and guide and before long, were piling back into the van for the last part of our day: socializing over peach wine and nibbles in one of our rooms before getting down to the restaurant for dinner. The restaurant buffet at Hotel Migmar offered us soup as well as a range of veg and non-veg items—rice, roti, papad, dal, buttermilk, chicken curry, emma dashi, stewed vegetables and tinned fruit salad with cream for dessert. We ate well as sightseeing has made us hungry and the mountain air had stimulated our appetites. Then, bidding each other goodnight, we returned to our rooms for another restful night.

Until tomorrow, keep smiling…

Bewitching Bhutan! Day Two: From Puesntsholing to Thimphu (Bhutan’s Capital): A Journey into the Clouds.

Saturday, May 9, 2026

Day Two: From Puesntsholing to Thimphu (Bhutan’s Capital): A Journey into the Clouds.

Both Llew and I slept well—probably a result of the dram of peach wine that we had bought at the Bhutan Duty Free shop, the previous night, and which turned out to be super delicious. As early risers, all of us were excited to peep outside our windows and survey the scene below—it was typically Bhutanese, i.e. very foreign. Bhutanese people of all ages and both genders, were circling the temple (Zangto Peri Lakhang) and the wider temple square for their daily morning constitutional. Many had prayer beads in their hands and were clearly using the exercise to pray. Others were turning the massive prayer wheel just below our window—so that periodically, we heard the lovely evocative sounds of the temple bell. Yet, others were feeding pigeons (flocks of them were seated on the temple roof and flying down for an occasional peck), yet others were practicing Tai Chi. The sun gilded the top of the pagoda structure and in the far distance, we could see the mountains that created a beautiful silhouette for the unfolding scene below.

After showers, we had planned to meet the rest of our group downstairs in the restaurant for breakfast. Everyone showed up on time, packed and ready to move on—Puentsholing was only a one-night stopover before our real travels in Bhutan began. In fact, it is interesting to note that Indians are permitted to stay in Bhutan for 24 hours (usually in the border town of Puentsholing) for up to 24 hours without a visa. Many of the residents of India’s border town, Jaigoan and its vicinity, and Bhutan’s Puentsholing and its vicinity, walk across the border, in and out of two countries routinely for shopping and other needs. As the cost of living is much higher in Bhutan, we saw loads of Bhutanese hauling loads of common items such as sacks of onions and potatoes from India into Bhutan for their daily needs.

Breakfast done, we assembled in the hotel lobby at 9.00 am (as instructed by our guide on the phone, the previous evening) and sat waiting for him. He showed up, just a little after 9.00 am, took our passports and told us to wait as he had to deal with our Immigration formalities. We volunteered to go with him; but he informed us that it would be a long wait and we were better off sitting in the hotel lobby. We took his advice and waited. And Waited. And Waited. Yes, we waited for what seemed like forever. By the time he returned to us, it was 11.30 am—we had spent two and a half hours sitting in the lobby at Hotel Park. Occasionally, we walked out into the temple square to stretch our legs, but our impatience levels grew, the longer we were kept waiting. We do wish our guide had collected our passports the previous evening and stood in the line earlier in the morning (if the predicted wait was so long).

Finally! On our Way to Thimphu:

It was an age before our guide returned. This time, he actually introduced himself to us really formally. His name, he said, was Dil Kumar (unlike most Bhutanese, he is a Hindu). He told us that he would be our guide and would stay with us for the next 7 days. He also introduced us to our driver, a wacko character named Chilay (Buddhist) who did not speak English but had very good Hindi proficiency (thanks to the Hindi movies that are addictive in Bhutan). Chilay would also provide us with a few good laughs throughout our trip, while Dil was serious, even morose. I did not see him crack a smile at all during our entire travels. However, he was knowledgeable, fluent in English, conveyed his store of information clearly and easily understood. For all these things, I was very grateful. He was also able to answer all our questions throughout our long drives with him: questions that pertained to Bhutan’s population, its marriage practices, its form of government (a democratic monarchy), its royal family, etc. etc. etc. There was a lot we learned about Bhutan from Dil during our travels.

Before we left and entered the van (a much more spacious van than the previous day had brought us—much to our relief), we were treated to a lovely ‘Welcome to Bhutan’ ceremony that was conducted by Dil in the beautiful front garden of our hotel. It involved the gifting of a traditional white silk stole/shawl to each of us. This was placed in our outstretched arms and had to be draped around our necks by us. As he handed the stole over, Dil uttered a few words (in Bhutanese) of welcome. We were all suitably humbled by such a warm cultural gesture and were not really clear how we ought to react—as such, each of us had different (sometimes amusing) responses. With our stoles around our necks, we then had our baggage packed into our van and began the long journey into Thimphu.

The drive into Thimphu (Bhutan’s capital) introduced us to the fabled beauty of this country. As it is so high up (in the foothills of the Eastern Himalayas), it tends to be shrouded, for a good part of the day, by clouds. As we left Puentsholing behind, we found ourselves enveloped by glorious mountains in multiple shades of green as they are entirely draped by thick forests. Spring was clearly in the air (Bhutan is in the temperate zone) and the cool, clean atmosphere was such a relief for our clogged lungs that have been exposed to the most awful air pollution in India. This break was primarily a treat for our lungs and we breathed in deeply.

Driving in Bhutan is no mean task. While drivers in India have acquired supreme skills in dodging traffic, humans who saunter on to the road, animals who claim highway space for themselves, etc. drivers in Bhutan are experts at negotiating the hairpin bends that are a routine feature in their nation. You need to have very steady nerves to undertake the sharp curves and bends, blind spots, sudden appearance of oncoming traffic and the awareness that, as you climb higher, you have a much deeper valley into which you could tumble. It is not a pleasing thought and we were grateful we had Chilay to do the hard work for us. Initially, we enjoyed the passing landscape as we climbed ever higher. But soon, we had to make a stop at a very popular spot.

Exploring His Majesty’s Armed Forces Memorial Chortens En Route at Chukha:

About 90 minutes into our road trip, we stopped at a wayside venue that offers a really stunning visual treat: a series of seven chortens (stupas or memorial structures) that are highly decorated and really colorful. They depict important stages in the life of the Buddha (founder of Buddhism) through a chain of towering white stupas, each of which holds a small plaque that explains its raison d’etre. High up, perched in a glass window, is a statue of the Buddha in varied poses. The chortens rise in a straight single line and are constructed in the midst of pleasing gardens that were abloom with spring and early summer flowers (azaleas, geraniums, even roses). The site is so visually arresting that it made for wonderful photo ops and we took several—of the chortens and the surrounding gardens. As the plaques are self-explanatory, we did not need the services of Dil to enlighten us. A short stop later, an opportunity to stretch our legs, we were back in the van again.

We stopped once more when we passed by a row of vendors in a bend in the road. Members of our party were attracted by the fresh produce being sold in wayside stalls—some quite unusual, such as fiddlestick ferns, asparagus, fingerling potatoes and artichokes. These are vegetables with which we, in America, are familiar. But they are unfamiliar to most Indians. We also saw a massive amount of chillis in varied shapes, sizes, colors and forms. Chilli is a staple vegetable in Bhutan and is prepared in a number of ways. Of these, Emma Dashi is the most common and familiar—it involves cooking chillis with local cheese (the cheese tempers the fieriness of the chillis). It was really the only Bhutanese dish we had the opportunity to taste on our travels. Some of the versions were really good, others were nothing to write home about. But “Emma Dashi” became our catch word (instead of “Cheese”) every time we posed, as a group, for pictures. This fund of private jokes kept growing as the tour progressed. We did not leave the spot without buying roasted corn on the cob—a tasty treat with its seasoning of garlic, chilli and lime. It kept the hunger pangs at bay as it was lunch time and we were peckish.

Although after a while the scenery gets similar, there are some elements that punctuated the drive that are worthy of mention: we passed a few pretty waterfalls, we made the acquaintance of bands of cheeky monkeys who besieged the road, we crossed over several concrete bridges over gushing rivers beneath us, we drove deep into the clouds (with little visibility—which made for several hairy moments), we saw trees dotted with white flowers like a froth covering them. Occasionally, we passed through segments where road works were in progress—in these stretches, we were reminded of the road work being done on Bandra’s Kantwadi Road—and such bits came to be christened “Kantwadi Road” for us in the van! Yes, by the end of the trip, we had created our own store house of private jokes that would seem funny to no one else but ourselves. These sections were bumpy and uncomfortable and our guide apologized for them.

Stopping for Lunch at ‘The Pit Stop’:

As the van ate up the miles, time also flowed gently by and it was soon time for lunch. Dil made ‘The Pit Stop’ (very aptly named) our meal spot. But because we had been so badly delayed at the time of our departure by the Immigration formalities, we arrived at the restaurant to find that the buffet offerings had been entirely swiped. There was nothing in the dishes (much to our disappointment as we were hungry and ready to eat a ravenous meal); but a few inquiries with the staff led to the replenishing of a couple of dishes—there was one vegetable and a chicken curry made available to us and with rice, roti and papads, we had a filling (if not necessarily enjoyable) meal.

I have to say a word, at this point, about a distinctively Bhutanese drink (and meal-time accompaniment) called Butter Tea (this is to be distinguished from Milk Tea—which is the sort usually drunk in India). Butter Tea is made with a combination of herbal leaves that are steeped in water to emit their flavor and then served with a mixture of yogurt and salt using manual churners—today, the tendency is to make it in a mixie. I found it utterly delightful as it was reminiscent to me of chicken broth. I actually drank enormous portions of it throughout our trip and even bought a packet of Butter Tea leaves to take home to Bombay. Fortunately, there was Butter Tea at this buffet station and I enjoyed it immensely.

Lunch done, we were back in the van again. Once again, we passed through interesting scenery but it was old hat after a while as there is a typical sameness to it all.

Stopping at the Confluence of the Mo-chu and Po-Chu Rivers:

We had one more stop before we arrived at Thimphu. This site is a popular venue for folks on this long road trip. Just at the point where the highway takes a turn (literally)—one branch of it going to Thimphu, the other to Paro--you pass by a huge ceremonial gate and right by its side is a lovely look-over: it allows visitors to take in the sight of the meeting or confluence of the two rivers, The Mo-Chu and the Po-Chu. They unite rather picturesquely with the mountains as a heightened backdrop before they merge and become another larger, broader river—the Raidak. Yes, we all took pictures at this spot as we realized that this was quintessential Bhutan: emerald-draped mountain slopes, raging rivers with mini rapids in them, a small stupa on the river banks to commemorate the passing away of a beloved soul. These elements made us feel as if we were fully imbibing the spirit of this sacred land that dwells in the clouds.

Arrival in Thimphu:

And finally, after what had seemed like an interminable road journey, we skirted the city of Thimphu (Bhutan’s current capital). The city is renowned for being the only world capital that has no traffic lights. Instead, there are rotaries and, apparently, (although we did not see any), dancing policemen who direct traffic to keep it moving. The city appeared to be super clean, visually neat, and composed of man-made structures in just two colors--off-white and orche. Roofs were built uniformly in just two colors: green (signifying official buildings) and red (signifying domestic structures). The homogeneity of colors gave the entire city a very pleasing appearance and with the absolute lack of massive, screaming billboards to ruin the natural mountain landscape, it was a true delight to enter this city. In fact, we learned soon enough, that Thimphu crouches in the depths of a very verdant valley, completely surrounded by ice-encrusted Himalayas that still held tell-tale signs of a past winter in its remnant snow caps.

We had made plans to meet in Blossom’s room for aperitifs and nibbles (we had all been carrying a variety of savory snacks, dry fruits and nuts which had also provided snacking opportunities during our journey) and the peach wine and red wine (Llew’s choice) we carried allowed us to have sociable times together before we adjourned to the restaurant for dinner.

Checking Into Hotel Migmar:

We had made plans to meet in Blossom’s room for aperitifs and nibbles (we had all been carrying a variety of savory snacks, dry fruits and nuts which had also provided snacking opportunities during our journey) and the peach wine and red wine (Llew’s choice) we carried allowed us to have sociable times together before we adjourned to the restaurant for dinner.

Our accommodation for the next two nights was in Hotel Migmar, a lovely, beautifully decorated series of buildings, right on the main road, that had a spacious front courtyard and a striking lobby with a restaurant tucked on one side. We had a Welcome Drink served to us upon entry and within no time at all, had our keys in our hands. Our baggage was always seamlessly brought to our rooms—which turned out to be clean, pretty, well-appointed and offering lovely views of the city below and the distant mountains.

We had made plans to meet in Blossom’s room for aperitifs and nibbles (we had all been carrying a variety of savory snacks, dry fruits and nuts which had also provided snacking opportunities during our journey) and the peach wine and red wine (Llew’s choice) we carried allowed us to have sociable times together before we adjourned to the restaurant for dinner.

Dinner was pretty much the same everywhere we went. In many places, there was soup as a first course and we brought bowls of sweet corn soup to our table. Later, we helped ourselves to rice, rotis, dal, butter chicken, emma dashi, Indian-style vegetables, papads and dessert. We always sat together, ate heartily, laughed over the events of the day and usually on a very happy note, returned to our rooms, to spend peaceful nights.

Yes, we had lost an entire evening’s intended sightseeing (as the immigration formalities had delayed us), but Dil assured us that we would still manage to cover all of it, tomorrow. We hoped he would be correct.

Until tomorrow, keep smiling…