Monday, August 17, 2026
Olbia, Sardinia
A Free Day Sees me in Olbia, Exploring the North of Sardinia
It was a free day today for us New York Writers Workshop participants. I had elaborate plans to buck the trend (most folks intended to spend it at nearby beaches) and travel all the way to the neighboring island of Corsica. With some imaginative juggling, I felt sure I could make it there and back in one day. No such luck! Train and ferry schedules conspired against me and refused to be in sync. If I did the ferry crossing, I would have no time at all to see Corsica and if I stayed on there as long as I desired, I would miss the last train back from Olbia to Oristano. It made sense then to spend the day exploring beautiful Olbia and I have to say that I was glad I took that course of action at the last minute.
But first things first: I had a taxi coming to my hotel at 7.00 am to take me to the Oristano train station to catch my 7.30 am train. As the hotel’s breakfast buffet only opened at 7.00 am, the Receptionist was kind enough to allow me to eat my breakfast at the lobby bar where the Receptionist on duty brought me two warmed croissants and a massive glass of caffe latte (as that was what I had requested instead of a cappuccino). Fueled with this sustenance in my belly, I felt mor confident about making the long journey ahead of me—solo, I might add, as no one wanted to be as foolhardy as me!
All went well at Oristano train station where I reached very early and waited in the Waiting Room until my platform was announced (last-minute change). I found myself a lovely seat: it was a two and a half hour journey, cutting across the entire island of Sardinia to get to Olbia. Along the route, I passed by fallow fields (Sardinia is uniformly beige with the occasional patch of green to relieve the monotony of the scorched landscape) with grazing sheep, olive groves, cows in pasture or chewing the cud in the shade and vineyards with fruit plumbing under the blazing summer sun. While on the train, I was desperately scrolling through train and ferry schedules to try to coordinate my journey to and from Corsica (as I was aware that the last train to leave Olbia to return to Oristano was as early as 6.00 pm—no trains down south after that one).
It was when the conductor looking for tickets came along (and spoke perfect English) that I realized I would miss the last train down if I stayed on track (as it were!) with my plans. In the afternoon, for three hours (between 12.30 and 3.30 pm), there are no ferries crossing the straits between Corsica and Sardinia (everyone taking their afternoon siesta perhaps). Hence, I could have reached Corsica by 1.30 pm but would have to wait till 3.30 pm to get the ferry back. This would only leave me two hours in Bonifacio and, worse still, would not enable me to make the 6.00 pm train back to Oristano. So, just about fifteen minutes before I arrived at Olbia Terranova (the conductor told me to “forget about” Olbia Airport or Olbia stations—the other two in the town as they would not serve my purpose at all), I took his advice and on alighting at Olbia Terranova, I asked a female train conductor there (who spoke perfect English) if she could help me find a return train to Oristano. She pulled out her online schedule and told me that there was a train leaving Olbia Terranova at 2.18 pm to arrive at Oristano at 4.45pm. This was simply perfect for me. And so, with her help, I purchased my ticket at one of the ticket machines and set off to explore Olbia.
An Afternoon Spent in Olbia:
Olbia is on the northeast coast of Sardinia—the other side of the Mediterranean Sea! Again, my Lonely Planet notes were very helpful in enabling me to figure out what I wanted to see and do. There are basically three things they line up: The Basilica, Old Town and the Archeological Museum. Once I got my bearings, using my Google maps for guidance, I arrived at Corso Umberto—the main street from where I walked to the Basilica Square. It is a huge concrete and granite creation that has not a single tree anywhere near it. The summer sun is merciless here in Sardinia and everyone is sheltering under shade. I went straight inside the Romanesque structure to explore it.
Exploring the Basilica of San Simplicio:
Just inside the door of the Basilica were two young men charging entry fees (3 euros) for exploring the church! Can’t believe how commercial these churches are getting! Anyway, I felt happy that the amount was small. Inside, I was given a booklet containing information in English which enabled me to appreciate the architectural features. It was built at the end of the 11th century at the behest of the judges of Gallura (the province under which Olbia falls). The church is the most ancient and religious monument in Northern Sardinia and is dedicated to Simplicio, a bishop who was martyred in 304AD and later canonized as the only bishop decorated with the palm of martydom. The church stands on the location of an ancient pagan temple once dedicated to the goddess Ceres. The antiquity of the church is evident the moment you enter as the brick walls remain unplastered. The ceiling is held up by stone columns that bring the eye to the rather plain altar characterized by more arched pillars and columns. Under the altar, there is a depiction of the bust of the saint in wood and gilding. A gigantic ebony cross with a pristine white Crucified Christ hangs above it and makes for a very arresting focal point. I spent a few minutes in quiet prayer before leaving to go out into the blazing sun again. I used my Google map to get me to Corso Umberto once again and from there, I made my way to the next item on my agenda: Old Town.
Olbia’s pretty Old Town:
Olbia’s Old Town is ve/ry different from Oristano (which is far older) Here, all life centers around the main square which is lined with chartreuse trees that offer welcome shade and lovely boutique shops, souvenir stores and gelaterias. Along the way, to get there, you will pass by a series of shops run by either Orientals or Middle Easterners (complete with head scarves) who sell really cheap made-in-China souvenirs. I have never seen more magnets in a single place than I saw along this boulevard. And yes, I did join the gang and bought one too that depicted all the places in Sardinia that Llew and I will see together.
When I did reach the main square, I settled down first on a shady step close to a gelateria and had my first coppa of the gorgeous dessert: there are now far more artisanal flavors than there used to be in Italy. I had Bacio (based on the hazelnut chocolate similar to the America Kiss—individually wrapped and bursting with flavor) and a Caramelized Fig gelato—two scoops in one small pot. I could not believe how small these little cups are—I have become too accustomed to the generosity of American vendors who pile on their wares when you step out to buy them! Anyway, I have to say that my coppa with two gusti was just delicious and I was glad I indulged, although alone. When Llew is here, we will eat a lot of gelato daily!
That done, I walked down the hill towards the waterfront and once there, I stopped to marvel at the prettiness of the place, its uniformity of color—orche and soft shades of pink, mainly salmon). Just past the main square, there is a secondary square with a tumbling modern fountain in the center encircled by very colorful structures and a plethora of Italian restaurants serving fresh Sardinia seafood. Alas, this treat will have to wait for me until Llew gets here as I have avoided entering and eating alone in good restaurants. I sat and finished up leftover pizza and half a sandwich that I had brought from home and with these, I felt fortified to continue my walk.
Down the hill I went, passing by realtors, boutiques, etc. until the sparkling sea was right in front of me. Olbia is a port city and I could see a cruise ship in the harbor. Its promenade alongside the waterfront, is decorated in the way that the promenades in Rio in Brazil were outfitted—with swirling mosaic waves in black and white. I walked along the promenade for a while, posing for pictures and asking a passer-by to take mine.
Next, I stepped into another large supermarket (Super Pan) and picked up plain croissants, prosciutto and sliced fontina cheese with the idea of making myself a sandwich to eat later on the train. It was a very wise move indeed. This done, I requested the use of a ladies room in a Japanese restaurant—they were very kind and permitted it at once. This allowed me to start the climb up the hill to the Main square once again where I stepped into a vintage shop and admired its wares. I did a bit more window shopping before I realized that I should probably make my way back to the train station. En route, I spied a beautiful silk scarf and I immediately decided to buy it because it featured olives of all kinds, colors and shapes plus lemons and plums—the most abundant fruits of Sardinia. I could not think of a better souvenir to take from this island and armed with that find in my bag, I made my way back to the station. I was a little early so I sat in the waiting room and made myself a sandwich which I ate very peacefully. I notice that, as in France, people are not always eating, everywhere. No one eats in public transport, for instance, and I have to make sure I do not either.
Train Journey Back to Oristano:
My train was on schedule, I jumped into it, found a seat and began the ride down south again. I had one change to make this time around and there were a whole lot of people changing at this spot (Osteri-Chiltiani). There, on another platform was my train going past Oristano and on to Cagliari. I boarded it quite painlessly and found a window seat. I used the time to read the sample writing that we will be workshopping tomorrow—so my time spent commuting both ways was very productive indeed. I requested the girl sitting opposite me to use my phone to call a cab at Oristano station to meet my train at 4.45 pm and this she gladly did.
So when I got off at Oristano, Andrea who was supposed to be waiting for me was not there---but I waited for just a few minutes and he arrived. It was not long before I was in my hotel again.
I spent the rest of the evening getting unpacked from my day’s excursion, having a snack of crackers and gorgonzola cheese and a coffee that I made in my room before I chatted with Llew on the phone. As the evening progressed, I continued with reading student sample writing and then at about 8.15 pm, I had my leftover pasta with shrimp of the previous day and a delicious pastry bursting with lemon curd and a touch of dark chocolate (which I had picked up from the Instituto).
And on that happy and filled note, with sleep washing over me and not fighting it any further, I climbed into bed after brushing and flossing my teeth and getting ready for tomorrow and its program.
Until tomorrow, ciao…
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