Monday, August 27, 2018

Heavenly Hangzou: Lingering by the Banks of West Lake

Sunday, August 19, 2018
Hangzou, China
Lingering Besides the Vast West Lake

Today we decided to wake up and breakfast a bit earlier as we had a 9.38 am train from Shanghai Railway Station to Hangzou—Haang-jo. This place is a two-hour journey from Shanghai and is known for what is called the West Lake. We breakfasted splendidly again at the Marriott—a princely meal that filled us well so that we did not need to eat again till 5.00 pm. We ate cereal, then a made-to-order omelette with the works, then sausage, bacon, grilled tomato, etc. followed by fruit and a sausage-stuffed croissant. 
We then walked briskly to the subway station, took the train to Shanghai Railway Station, and knowing the drill, soon found our waiting room and platform. Every single place in China is crowded to capacity—it is so hard to find a seat at public spaces. And being as tired as we were, we always looked for a place to plop down. It was a high speed train that took us to our destination. We chatted with a man who spoke good English and told us to take a taxi to Shanxi Hotel from where we could walk on the causeway across West Lake.

Exploring West Lake:
We did as our travel companion suggested and arrived at West Lake. Here too, there were throngs. People promenaded around the lake’s periphery. It is a vast lake—and I mean massive. It also happens to be one of the most popular venues for Chinese holiday-makers and summer vacation brings families out in full strength—three generations of them. Think Niagara Falls and you will know what I mean. The heat was blistering. The sun was out (which was a good thing), but it is so strong that all you want to do is take shelter from its heat and glare.
Because the lake is so huge, it is, in fact, divided into two portions—an East side and a West side. I could not tell at which side we had alighted. All I knew is that we seemed to be surrounded by glorious Lotus Gardens that had massive leaves and many pale-pink blossoms. Dying for a cold drink, we found a most refreshing Grapefruit Mint drink at KFC—which was also jam-packed. Then a look into a set of souvenir stores followed for a magnet—we did not buy one intending to look for a better one.  It was an unwise call as the only one we could then find was at the Hangzou station on our way back and we paid a fortune for a really awful one.
The heat was simply unbearable and I was just beginning to wonder how we would pass the entire day outdoors when I spied a shuttle. For 40 yuan each, it would take us on a  a ride around the entire periphery of the gigantic lake. I could not think of a more convenient way to see it all and spend the time as it would take 90 minutes to make a round.  When Chriselle and I had traveled together in Slovenia, we had done a similar thing at Lake Bled—we’d taken a toy train that gave us a ride around the entire periphery of the lake and showed us everything without using an ounce of our energy. It was exactly what Llew and I needed.

A Spin Around West Lake:
  It was also the best decision we made as it showed us all sorts of sights. Around every curve, there was something more interesting to see. There was fab architecture—gardens, pagodas, temples, museums, etc. are located all around the periphery of the lake. Gardens that completely surround the lake are beautifully landscaped. On the main road, through which we zigged and zagged, plane trees and weeping willows lent shade and such a romantic mood. There were also miles of lotus gardens in full bloom at every turn with a lot of lotus seed pods. People were strolling, biking, roller skating around, if they wished to be more energetic.  Others were strolling with babes in strollers or in their arms. People enjoyed popsicles, ice-cream, cold drinks as they sauntered around. It was such an amazing place.  We did a lot of people-watching. It was so nice to see the Chinese having such a good time during their vacation. There were families everywhere and, finally, after days of traveling around small towns where there were no female children or babies to be seen at all (a result of China’s short-sighted one child only policy that led to the aborting of female embryos), we actually saw Chinese girl children. It was such a heartening sight. The shuttle was simply the best, most comfortable and time-saving way by which to see the lake and everything it could offer. I took so many pictures as we cruised along as there were loads of hump-backed or bow bridges on the lake. On the streets, cheap convenience stores in one section were juxtaposed against high-end designer stores like Hermès. and Ferragamo, on the other.  Indeed, at West lake, there was something for everyone.
When the ride ended, we walked for a while on the lake’s periphery under shady plane trees to find a magnet—no luck and it was so dreadfully hot. So, seeking relief, we stepped into McDonald’s for chocolate sundaes and to cool off in the AC. When we emerged into the heat outside again, we thought we would sit in a garden by a bow-bridged canal; but the humidity and stillness in the air was so oppressive that we left and made the decision to sit at the railway station instead—because there was air-conditioning there. 
Then began the mad hunt for a cab. We were competing with so many other people as we tried to find a cab back to the station. Finally we did get one, but guess what? He took us to the wrong Hangzhou station—to Hangzhoudong! So the search for another cab began. Luckily, we had given ourselves much time to find the station. Finally, we did arrive at the right station where we got a local train. That was another experience in itself. It happened to be a local train—so it took double the time to get back to Shanghai. It also happened to be a very cheap train that attracts many passengers who are prepared to travel standing for a lower price. Indeed, it took more than 2 boring hours in a train that moved so slowly and with standing passengers who made it seem like we were still at a station. 
When we did finally reach, we were dropped off Shanghai South Railway Station  from where it took us one hour on the subway to get back to hotel. We rRached the Marriott at 10.00 pm and from there, we picked up our cases we had left at the Reception and took a cab to get to the Hongta Hotel in Pudong where NYU was putting us up. It took us about 30 minutes and 40 yuan for the cab but the Hongta Hotel, a five-star hotel, was really fancy. We would spend the next four nights in great luxury in this hotel in which we were treated like royalty. Because we had basically eaten nothing since those chocolate sundaes, Llew was hungry and called Room Service for a Club Sandwich that we shared. It was large, delicious and very filling. Without wasting any more time, we had our showers and went to bed at about 11.00 pm after another amazing day in China.
Tomorrow, the business part of my travels will begin as the NYU Conference gets under way. It had been a very exciting and enlightening few days along the Chinese rails and we were filled with all sorts of thoughts as we fell asleep. Best of all, we felt deeply proud of ourselves for having pulling off such a diverse tour on our own and without the help of any travel agents or tour operators.


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