Mergouza to Fes: A Day Spent Driving Through the Middle Atlas Mountains

Wednesday, November, 27, 2019

Mergouza to Fes:

A Day Spent Driving Through the Middle Atlas Mountains:

Today was all about driving across the High Atlas into the Middle Atlas Mountains and then to Fes. It took an entire day to cross the desert and return to civilization. 

We awoke in our desert tents in the camps in Mergouza in the Western Sahara while it was still dark and very cold. It was really difficult to stir but we had to get on our camels by 7.00 am—so we set our alarms for 6.30 am, merely washed (in really cold water), got undressed and got up to join the group. 

Off on Camels to Watch the Sunrise:

I have to say that no one was too enthusiastic about getting atop the camels today. Yesterday had been a learning curve and we all had sore butts to show for it! However, since we had little choice, we got back on our camels—the same ones we used yesterday—and set off. Mine was not a particularly friendl fellow. His name was Aboot! We were on the camels for about half an hour as the eastern sky got decidedly lighter with the arrival of a new day. 

Then, in the middle of nowhere, we stopped to watch the sun’s rays peep over the horizon and stain the sky in pearly shades. It was a little cloudy—so we did not have a clear view of the rising sun. Still, our pictures came very nice—no silhouettes as in our pictures of yesterday.

About fifteen minutes later, we were atop our camels again. The journey was painful as every turn made our bottoms even more sensitive. I think it was with great relief that we spied our hotel—at which point, we were ready for breakfast as we had worked up quite an appetite.

Breakfast and Quick Showers in our Hotel:

Breakfast was a buffet affair—rather modest but good: hard boiled eggs, cheese, butter, Moroccan pancakes with honey and jam, tomatoes, cucumber, olives. There was OJ (canned this time) and coffee and I chose the last. Indeed it was a delicious and very filling breakfast. 

Towels were then organized so that those of us who wanted showers could take them.  Llew and I chose to have showers in our hotel in Fes as it was too much of a to-do to try to race through them and get back on the van for our long drive to Fes. Those who preferred to have showers, got through them quickly and we were off on the road again after our baggage was piled back inside our van.

 A Drive Across the Atlas Mountains:

Then followed a day-long drive across the Atlas Mountains from the High Atlas further west to the Middle Atlas. The desert was left behind with its golden colored sand dunes as we hit the arid plains where there was hardly any vegetation or human habitation. I busied myself blogging on my iPad which I picked out of my baggage. Occasionally we passed by a human settlement, but they were small village affairs. 

A Visit to a Fossil Factory in Erfoud:

Abdul informed us that this area of Morocco was once entirely covered by saline sea—which explains why, after the water evaporated, the area has been left covered by marine fossils and is now famous for it. He stopped at a fossil factory where we were shown how the fossils are isolated from the layers of rock in which the creatures were trapped. We saw a lot of nautilus shells and also some elongated ones. 

After we were shown how the fossils are processed, we were taken to the showroom where we saw gigantic items such as dining table tops, double sinks and coffee tables made from marble that has trapped fossils in them. There were also smaller items which we passed through quickly before we returned to the van.

A Stop for Picnic Supplies: 

About half way through the day, Abdul stopped at a supermarket called Marjane and picked up supplies for our picnic lunch. We bought Magnum Double Chocolate ice-creams and enjoyed them.

Lunch al Fresco:

We found a spot to set up a picnic lunch in the middle of a private olive grove just off the main road. Somewhat miraculously, Abdul and our driver Husain set up a picnic tables with a table cloth and portable stools and together they tore open the many packages that had been picked up at the supermarket. The end result was a delightful picnic in the middle of nowhere with a big salad with sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, corn, avocados, green peppers and cans of tuna. There was also Edam and Gouda sliced cheese plus Baby bell cheese, not to mention juices, biscuits, apricot and peach yogurt, bread and wraps. Llew made himself a cheese wrap while I made a delicious tuna salad which I finished off with apricot yoghurt and coffee toffees for dessert.  It was a lovely experience to eat in the clear, clean, unpolluted mountain air with a close view of the curves of the mountains in the background. 

Back on the van, we pretty much drove right through but for a couple more pit stops during which time, our companions bought coffees or ice-cream. En route, we passed through Ifrane which Abdul informed us is known as the ‘Switzerland of Morocco’ as it is one of the poshest parts of the country and boasts a private university where instruction is in English. However, by this time darkness has descended upon the land and we had left the mountains behind. We had the last lap to complete before we arrived at Fes where we would spend the night.

Arrival in Fes:

As we would be staying in a traditional Riad that does not have a restaurant attached to it, Abdul stopped at a shopping mall which included a Carrefour supermarket where he instructed us to buy alcoholic drinks, if we needed them, and to pick up some fast food from the food court. Llew and I bought a can of beer (Kania) and ordered a medium thin crust Extravaganza pizza from Dominoes. We then carried it with it and decided to eat it in our room once we reached the Riad.

Just ten minutes later, we had arrived in the heart of the souk where our Riad was located. It is called Riad Reda and it is in the heart of the Medina within the city walls. It was just a short walk (our baggage was brought to us later). We checked in quickly and were enchanted by the place and what we saw. It was built in the style of a Castle with the central courtyard filled with a fountain and with rooms on three floors radiating from it. These dwellings of rich men of the past have been converted into hotels and this one was just beautiful. We did not linger long, however, as we were all hungry and tired and could not wait to get to our rooms to get showers, eat and get to bed.

And that was exactly what we did! We loved our room on the second floor—it was impeccably decorated in traditional Moroccan style with its own little sitting area, kitchenette with fridge and microwave, a very nice en suite bathroom and WiFi services (unfortunately, only available on the ground floor). Llew and I took turns to go downstairs and pickup our messages and then, back in our rooms, we enjoyed our drinks with nuts, ate up our pizza and took our showers before we gratefully crept into bed after what had been an exceedingly long driving day.

A Bientot!