Day Five of Our East African Safari: Leaving Nairobi After Breakfast; Six-Hour Drive to the Maasai Mara; Arrival at Mara Maisha Tented Camp; First Game Drive in the Mara; Dinner at Mara Maisha.

Tuesday, July 15, 2025

Day Five of Our East African Safari

Leaving Nairobi After Breakfast; Six-Hour Drive to the Maasai Mara; Arrival at Mara Maisha Tented Camp; First Game Drive in the Mara; Dinner at Mara Maisha.

Breakfast of Champions at the Hyatt Regency Hotel in Nairobi Westlands:

Of all the hotels at which we stayed on this trip, the Hyatt Regency at Nairobi Westlands was, in my humble opinion, simply the best! For one thing, it had this gigantic TV screen which enabled us to finally catch up on international news after living in a Safari Bubble for almost a week. Secondly, it had decaff coffee sachets in the tea/coffee station in each room (how thoughtful and considerate is that?). Thirdly, while I am usually not one to wax eloquent about hotel breakfast buffets, this place had the most magnificent breakfast ever—with smoked salmon (one of my favorite things in the world to eat) and real, genuine, Parisian-style croissants and pain au chocolat (which is to say, they were not just bread rolls shaped like croissants, but the real thing, complete with glazed lamination)! No marks for guessing that we ate really well. My travel-companions had saved their decaff sachets for me, as requested, and for the rest of our breakfast, they came trooping to our table carrying the precious sachets in their hands and depositing them with me. Suffice it to say that we had enough decaff coffee to cure the insomniacs in us for the rest of our trip—maybe for the rest of our lives!

Being spoiled for choice, I made a ‘no-carbs at brekkie’ exception to my own rule and helped myself to a small croissant, a small helping of scrambled eggs (they were soft and creamy--the way I like them), baked beans, half a grilled tomato, a pork sausage, rolls of smoked salmon and some orange juice. Yummy! It was perhaps one of my most enjoyable breakfasts. It was good to have John and Doreen join us at our table and to obtain more tidbits from them about their adventures in Nairobi. And as if this bounty were inadequate, Amani came around to our tables and told us (after we’d had our fill) that we were welcome to help ourselves to a take-out snack or sandwich—one or two for the road! Boy oh boy! Were we thrilled! It would save us the agony of another packed lunch!

Did we just swoop on the buffet once again? Yes, Sirree Bob! Did those croissants and pain au chocolat just fly off those shelves? You bet! Miraculously, the hotel provided us with brown paper take-out bags! Can you imagine anything more thoughtful? Never, ever, in my experience with buffets was such generosity in evidence. Needless to say, we did not have to be told twice. I fixed myself two smoked salmon sandwiches in croissants–even including some slices of raw onion from the salad bar. Llew, who does not eat fish, was presented by me with two ham and cheese croissant sandwiches which I fixed for him. I saw folks help themselves to madeleines (yes, the buffet carried those) and financiers (yes, we could have been in a patisserie/boulangerie in the South of France) and every conceivable kind of mini bread roll. We were like kids in a candy shop!

Passing by the large picture windows—for we were on the eighth floor of a high-rise building—I had great views of the Westlands area of Nairobi—I stopped to admire the view of other skyscrapers surrounding our building and I took a few photographs. Then, it was time for us to pile into our transport for another long ride—for we were headed to another highlight of our travels—a stint in the Maasai Mara.

Just before we boarded our vehicle, however, I remember that it was my brother Russel’s Birthday. Using our international calling plan, I was able to call him in Bombay and both Llew and I were able to wish him well and tell him that we were thinking of him and praying for his health and happiness. It was already 11.30 am in Bombay and my cousin, Linnet and her mother Ruby, his other cousins Meera and Ashley had, upon my request, gone over this place with a cake. There, they sang a ‘Happy Birthday’ to him as he cut his cake and blew his candle and made him feel very special indeed. I felt very sorry that we had missed his birthday, but to make up for it, we had organized a party for him, a few days before our departure on this safari. That sufficed to keep him happy and with relatives and guests trooping into his home on his birthday itself, he was a very happy camper.

Long Drive from Nairobi to the Maasai Mara:

Our morning’s drive from Nairobi to the Mara was a huge study in contrasts. As we passed through the urban heart of Kenya’s most populous city, Nairobi, we had glimpses of the daily routine of Kenyans. The industrious working set were out in droves, well-dressed in professional garb, for the start of their day. Public transport, in the form of local buses, were packed, commuters crammed inside like in a sardine can, strap-hangers swaying. Streets were simply filled with people, walking purposefully towards their destinations or standing at bus-stops in a disorderly crowd waiting to board local buses. Vendors, their wares spread all over the pavements, were setting up for the day as they sold cheap clothing and footwear. There were large bill-boards on the roads advertising everything from telecommunications packages like Airtel’s services to KFC’s meal deals. Buses honked, brakes screeched, people dodged traffic as they crossed busy streets, regardless of traffic light controls. Yes, indeed, all the confusion and assault on the senses that one associates with Third World cities anywhere in the world—at least the one’s I’ve visited--(Cairo, Fez, Bangkok, Calcutta, Bombay) was evident everywhere. In fact, downtown Nairobi reminded me of Bombay as it had been about thirty years ago (i.e. before the great Economic Revolution for re-development of the late, former Prime Minister and economist, Dr. Manmohan Singh, that had taken the country from a socialist model to a quasi-capitalist one). I was really really happy to receive this glimpse into the city (because, upon our return to Nairobi), we would be skirting around the most exclusive, affluent, former colonialist parts of the city, such as Karen, which were completely different from the chaos of this average, everyday world.

Gradually, passing under lofty flyovers (again, similar to Bombay in its current avatar), we made our way out of the city, flying through the suburbs on terrific tarmac roads. We were making our way into the beating rural heartland of Kenya and to do this, we had to pass through the scenic Rift Valley.

Pausing at the Spectacular Rift Valley for Photo Ops:

The Rift Fault, by the way, runs through the backbone of Kenya and Tanzania and makes the region susceptible to the earth’s tremors. This accounts for the sudden appearance of the single mountain—Kilimanjaro—and the vast crater surrounding the caldera of Ngorongoro. It has given its name to the range of low mountains that surround the suburbs and, in the post-monsoon season, the area remains lush, verdant and inviting. In the higher reaches, the air is delightfully nippy and pleasantly clean, free from the urban pollution of motor vehicles.

We stopped in a particularly appealing bend in the road in the Rift Valley to take pictures. It allowed us to stretch our legs and take in some of the most visually charming sights in the valley below, basking in anemic sunshine: fields and farms and occasional farm houses and barns. In couples or in snug groups, we posed for pictures, our drivers obligingly playing photographers or posing with us. Maasai huts lined the road selling the usual tourist tat and a few of us inspected the goods. There were a lot of sheep skin throws and sheep skin hats as well as cow hide floor coverings. We looked at small piles of local fruits and vegetables (loads of corn on the cob—the depleted stalks make excellent cattle food) that are regularly consumed by the local population, most of whom are Maasai nomadic cowherds.

And so we inched deeper into the rural territory. Yes, we did make a few rest room stops, every two hours, at the highway shops-cum-restaurants-cum-restrooms that allow travelers to find relief. They are usually clean enough, offer running water and toilet paper amenities (although no paper towels to wipe hands) and are uniformly well-maintained. But, I have to say that as we passed by small towns, looking at ordinary people going about their daily activity—filling gas at pumps, buying large bags of oranges or onions--I was struck by the names of the shops and business establishments. They were quite comical, some of them (Bless this Shop was one; this Blessed Shop was another; Get Well Clinic was a third). Stray dogs were evident (another Third World appendage), pools in potholes (yet another one) and make-shift stalls sold wares on the pavement.

It was very clear to us when we were nearing Maasai Country. The scenes changed dramatically. Hundreds of heads of cattle (cows and goats) walked alongside our vans on the roads, led by shepherds of varying age. But all of them wore the distinctive red Maasai blankets and carried shepherd’s staff--which are certainly their signature trademark. Wide open expanses of field and farm came into view as agriculture and animal husbandry are their chief forms of livelihood. That, and selling and making tourist trinkets (bead jewelry, wood carvings, paintings). Homes became far less permanent. Most looked like tin or asbestos shanties, rudimentary in the extreme. Steve informed me that the Maasai receiuve large government subsidies as they are the original owners of the land but find its maintenance taxing. They are extraordinarily insular in their customs and behavior and brook no interference in their traditional ways of life. Hence, they are treated with kid gloves. Over the years, the Maasai have come to realize how lucrative their unique culture can be—foreign tourists lap up the opportunity to visit their villages, to interact with them and pose for pictures, to watch them whoop and dance in customary fashion—all for a price, of course, We were told to pay $25 per head for the privilege. But the plan was cancelled for want of takers from our group.

Yes, we did feast on our sandwiches—kind courtesy of Hyatt--in the van. Someone pulled out a bag of crisps, another munched on an apple. And so, hunger pangs were kept at bay and we did not feel the need to make a stop for lunch. And after what seemed like an interminably long time, our drive ended and we were entering the property called Mara Maisha Tented Camp.

Checking Into and Having Lunch at Mara Maisha Safari Camp:

The owners of Mara Maisha Safari Camp are the same ones who own the Kibo Safari Camp at Amboseli. The layout of their establishment is identical—both outside and in our individual tents, capped with rustic thatched roofs. We were presented with a hot towel and a cold Welcome Drink at the entrance as the tedious task of giving us room keys and taking our baggage to our rooms commenced. By this point in time, we were pros at the process, but we were also pretty fed up with the frequent changes in accommodation. One of the greatest aspects of our prior safari, in South Africa’s Kruger National Park, ten years ago, was that we had checked into one camp (Hamilton Tented Camp) and had stayed put there for a whole week. This eliminated the tedium of checking in and out every single night.

Llew and I were led to our villa which was so far away from the main Reception tent that I almost believed the two of us were camping out on the Mara! (Not surprising that I heard lions roar at night and woke Llew up to hear them too). Here too, we loved the manner in which local materials (sand, stone, terracotta) were incorporated into the architectural design of the space. Little toadstools, studded with black basaltic stone, led us into our tent. But all we could do was have a really lightning lie-down and use the toilet before we were expected to return to the Lobby for lunch and the start of our next game drive.

Yes, lunch we did eat—it was a very late lunch but riding in a safari van for hours on end whets one’s appetite! The buffet was still open at the Dining Hall and we ate well. Soup and salad always do the trick. With our bellies satisfied, we trooped back into our vans for our next game drive. This time John and Doreen left us to ride in another van and Em and Jude joined us in ours. This drive would be on the Mara itself. And oh my! What a game drive it turned out to be!!! We won the safari lottery with the big cats!

Stalking Big Cats on the Mara:

Our drive started off tamely enough. We passed by herds of antelope, impalas and wart hogs. There were also dozens of zebra everywhere we looked. By this point in the game (hunt), these animals had lost their novelty and we no longer went crazy with our cameras.

However, very shortly, word got out that a pride of lions had been spied. And so the mad race to catch a glimpse of them before they sauntered off, began. Steve stepped on the gas on the long, winding, bumpy, dusty roads with us hanging on for dear life. Radio communication brought the other vans in our party to the same spot and then, hey presto, there it was. At first, all we could see was a lone lioness walking rather restlessly about ten meters away from us. Yes, we did keep safe distance as she was clearly on the prowl. Once we followed her movements, however, we made the charming discovery that there were two more felines lazing in the shade of some low-growing shrubs. They turned out to be a mother and her cub, lying side by side, trying hard to ignore our presence. There was another safari van that was much closer to the pride—Steve told us that these vans are especially equipped to handle the needs of professional international photographers who pay handsomely for government permission to go off road and get close-up shots of the creatures.

We got our fair share of photographs too—albeit from a greater distance. The mother stretched occasionally, threw her head back and yawned lazily—allowing us to get some really terrific action shots. The cub remained motionless for most of the time. The other lioness continued her aimless strolls, back and forth. All the while, our van drivers changed position to enable us to get better shots of them. But although we stayed there for almost half an hour, it was clear that the family did not intend to budge from their cool spot and after a while, we moved on.

Then Along Came the Show-Off Cheetah:

Our scouring of the plain continued. Rhinos had still remained elusive and as we were nearing the end of our safari drives, all of us kept wishing we’d hit the lucky jackpot and find them, sooner or later. And then just as these thoughts were invading our minds, Steve received word that a cheetah had been sighted. So, it was time to go out in search of him.

Another mad, tearing drive brought us to a flat clearing, almost entirely devoid of vegetation. And then, after we’d inched closer, we caught sight of him—this splendid, dotted creature whose antennae were clearly on alert. We followed his glance and saw that his sights were set on a pair of Thompson’s gazelles, in the distance. The cheetah was very clearly on the hunt. He was probably hungry and trying to figure out how he could get as close as possible and as stealthily as possible to his prey, without alerting the gazelles to its presence. He started to move in classic predatory fashion, one small, sly step forward at a time.

But then, to his annoyance, he found that his progress towards his target was entirely thwarted by the fact that our vans had fully encircled him and blocked his chosen path. The poor creature had no straight course to his gazelle. He looked around him in frustration, trying to find a spot through which he could squeeze to get past our vans and over on to the other side of our circle. Of course, this was all high-quality drama for us. But, by being so close to the animal, we had deprived ourselves of one of the rarest safari sightings ever—a predator moving in for the kill and grabbing its prey. Had we seen this, we’d have hit pure safari gold.

But no, we would not have that thrill. We had jeopardized our own joy. The cheetah walked with royal and slow splendor along the flat, grassless plain in front of us. And then, as if to taunt us, he came to the very wheels of two vans that were standing, nose to tail, and began to show off with a series of acrobatic moves that exposed the awesome muscularity of its lean structure. Yes, we were able to capture a lot of wonderful photographs. But we missed out on the real prize—watching the thrill of the chase and the almost certain possibility of fresh kill. After preening in front of us for a good ten minutes, the cheetah become tired of his own stunts and deciding that he had given us enough opportunity to be voyeurs, he grew tired of his own games and bounded away into the undergrowth. It was a lost opportunity that we would never get back.

For the rest of the morning, we saw a number of animals that we had never seen before but with which Em and Jude seemed very familiar. We saw an eland, for example, a kind of large horned ox with a pronounced hump that resembled an Indian cow. We also saw a sizeable antelope called a Topi, for the very first time. He was clad in ‘blue jeans’—a darker shade on his upper lags. For the next few days, we would continue to see large herds of topi, so that they would become for us as ubiquitous as gazelles

The best part of being out on the Mara, as twilight fell, was that we were in the midst of a splendid sunset. The sun’s slanting rays formed sharp luminous fingers in the sky and as they illuminated a herd of zebra alongside which we drove, we got some really evocative pictures of the Mara. More animals that we snapped as they wended their way home, in a hazy dusk across the land, were gazelles, antelopes, giraffes, impalas and more zebras. Yes, there are thousands of animals on the Mara and yet, you never tire of them as they remain constant companions on every game drive.

Drinks and Dinner with Friends:

At dinner this time, Llew and I found ourselves seated with Nama and Yair, the lovey Israeli couple who had joined us on the tour—they are friends/relatives of Sol and Dalia. I was pleased to have the opportunity to get to know another couple from our group a little better. Llew ordered red wine and Yair ordered a bottle of white wine. He offered me a glass and I graciously accepted and with our drinks in front of us, we started up a happy conversation.

Deciding to try and eat lighter, this evening, I enjoyed the Beef Bouillon (a most delicious clear consomme) and a plate filled with cheese, crackers and Greek Salad. They served as delightful appetizers. Later, I moved on to Steak Frites—yes, I had the Beef Pepper Steak with a flavorful mushroom sauce, a small helping of French fries, another small helping of pasta in marinara sauce and a small salad with loads of seeds and nuts. I finished with fresh grapefruit for dessert—something I do not get to eat too often in India. It was one of the nicest meals I had eaten all week. There was another birthday procession that brought music, noise and a dance procession to the space before we could call it a night.

Just when we thought we could make a dash to our rooms for an early relaxing evening, Em told us that a few of them would be sittign down to play bards. Llew joined them as well as Louella, Albin, Doreen and John to play Bluff while I joined a group that lingered on for post-dinner chatting—among them Brian, Marilyn, Frances and Ayaz, Ralph and Lynn.

It had been a long and tiring day but indeed a very productive one and all of us hunkered down in our rooms for the night filled with gratification for what we had seen.

Until tomorrow, Hakuna Matata (No Troubles, No Worries).