More Napa Valley Treats: Visiting the Petrified Forest in Calistoga, Sauntering through St. Helena, Wine-Tasting at BV (Beaulieu Vineyards), Late Lunch at Burgers and Half Bottles in Yountville, Napa Riverfront Walk, Dinner at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Coppia.

Wednesday, October 8, 2025

More Napa Valley Treats: Visiting the Petrified Forest in Calistoga, Sauntering through St. Helena, Wine-Tasting at BV (Beaulieu Vineyards), Late Lunch at Burgers and Half Bottles in Yountville, Napa Riverfront Walk, Dinner at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Coppia.

Today, we had a full, exciting and extremely varied day. Our day began when we woke up in our Best Western Plus Hotel, got ourselves coffee, picked up Everything Bagels with cream cheese from Einstein Bagels next door and then set out for the first item on a very long day’s agenda—a drive up north to Calistoga.

Exploring the Petrified Forest in Calistoga:

The thing about touring on your own (without the assistance of a tour operator or a travel agent) is that you do your research online and my source is always Lonely Planet. It was this website that extolled the virtues of the Petrified Forest in Calistoga as one of the not-to-miss sites in the area. And so, it was at the top of our agenda as Calistoga is also in the extreme north of the wine-growing region of Napa and it takes about 45 minutes to drive there at a leisurely place (from our hotel).

Along the route, you will pass mile after mile of vineyards, all proclaiming ownership by various well-known wine-label manufacturers. They were fully laden with fruit, as we were there just in the harvest season: vines were drooping with purple grapes in such abundant, luscious bunches as to make us stop to actually pluck then for our eating pleasure (but, of course, we did nothing of the sort). We did stop, a little later in the day, to frolic in the vineyards and take some pictures surrounded by the fruitful vines.

In a short while, we were at the entrance to the Petrified Forest. We parked out car, watched a couple of deer saunter around and then made our way to the ticket counter to buy our tickets ($14 per head which included a guided walk with a naturalist). We browsed around the shop which was actually filled with really lovely merchandise, all based on the earth’s natural materials, and then our guide Nancy, was ready to begin our walk.

The walk turned out to be highly enlightening. We were joined by about three other couples and together we made a small but merry group as we followed her to the various nooks and crannies of a vastly sprawling property. From what I gathered, this area has seen a great deal of geological activity of various kinds through the millennia and these have created the natural conditions that turn trees into stone—this is what is meant by their becoming petrified. Fire, volcanic activity, flood, etc. contribute to this phenomenon and, eventually, fallen trees, which remain untouched for generations end up looking like wood. From some of them semi-precious stones, as we recognize or understand them, can be extracted. Overall, it was a really fascinating experience and we ended up learning a whole lot, looking at a lot of specimen trees that have been left in situ to demonstrate their evolution to visitors, etc. I have not seen anything quite like this before (none of us had)—so it was really an educational experience. It lasted over an hour, by which time we were ready to use the facilities and move on. It was very misty and a tad chilly, but luckily we were all clothed warmly and did not mind the lack of sun on that nippy morning.

Strolling Through the Town of St. Helena:

Since we had some time to spare before our next appointment—a wine-tasting reservation at a nearby vineyard—we parked our car in the cute town of St. Helena and decided to stroll through it. All the Napa towns (Calistoga, Napa, St. Helena, Rutherford, Yountville) in this area are super snazzy and upscale. They attract a certain type of clientele—the deep-pocketed type. As a result, the shops and merchandise offered in this area are ultra sophisticated. There are one-of-a-kind boutiques, designer jewelry stores, fancy housewares offered in kitchen shops, and antiques shops galore. I left the others for about ten minutes to browse through an absolutely divine antiques store that was not only filled with the most desirable treasures but was so beautifully laid out, the contents so classily grouped or set up together, that I was totally enchanted. We strolled at leisure through these lovely streets with their pretty shop-windows and enticing displays until we actually came upon a consignment store! And then after just a little while’s browsing, Chriselle found a beautiful pair of sunglasses and a really lovely shawl and I found a stunning necklace in two toned gold and silver which I absolutely loved. This became our souvenirs of the region although we did buy our magnet of St. Helena, as usual. Then, we got back into our car and made our way to the Beaulieu Vinery.

Wine-Tasting at Beaulieu Vineyards (BV):

The Beaulieu Vineyard (commonly known as BV) is one of the oldest vineyards and vineries in the Napa region. It is particularly known for the wines it makes out of the Cabernet grape and it was in this context that Chriselle chose this place for a wine-tasting as Llew is a great fan of these particular reds. Like all these properties, this one too was charming. We were seated on a shaded patio where a table was laid out for us. We had a small plate of complimentary charcuterie put out for our nibbling pleasure and indeed we were glad to see it. Then, we were placed in the hands of a wonderful sommelier named Jeff who was affable, knowledgeable, amusing and patient. He introduced us to each of the six wines that made up our flight and told us what made them unique. We thoroughly enjoyed our education in his hands and also enjoyed the taste of the wines. Cabernets are full-bodied, very rich wines that go well with red meats and cold weather. Llew certainly enjoyed the experience while the rest of us nibbled on dried apricots, bread sticks and delicious wine-soaked cheese. At the end of the session, we used the facilities again, then posed by the entrance and moved on. Yes, we were enjoying the full Napa experience and were savoring every stage of it.

Nibbles and Tasters at V. Sattui:

Talking of savoring, I had remembered that, on a previous trip to Napa, several years ago, I had come in a tour bus from San Francisco that had stopped at V. Sattui, a very charming place that combined a vineyard with a winery, a grocery store, a restaurant, etc. I was keen that the group should experience this place and when we passed by it, I suggested that we stop there, As it turned out, the company has very recently renovated their grocery store which is now called Mercato and which is huge. We parked our car and walked through the property which was still as charming as I remembered it to be with a wishing well, a building with a Tuscan stone façade and turreted red tile roof, blooming gardens filled with flowers, bees and butterflies, a cool avenue or alle under which one could walk until we reached the big barn doors of the Mercato.

And, inside, a real treat awaited us. Yes, it is a sprawling space selling wine and everything wine-related from implements to bottle openers, from cheese boards to table linen, even candles. There was a whole sampling section and there we stopped to taste olive oils and vinegars, crackers with a variety of creamy dips, both savory and sweet, cheese samples and olives. Indeed, there was enough to make us feel slightly full. It was all very delicious and a perfect opening to what would be a really wonderful meal that would follow. So, I was glad we did make the stop and that each one of us found something we enjoyed tasting. It was what the French call ‘degustation’ and I enjoyed it fully.

Late Lunch of Thomas Keller’s Burgers:

every foodie or gastronomist knows that the most famous restaurant in America is in Napa Valey—it is called The French Laundry and is founded and run by a chef called Thomas Keller in a town called Yountville. However, it is next to impossible to get reservations at The French Laundry and so we had to ensure that we partook of this chef’s genius through one of his more modest eateries. Jessie, at Nicholson Ranch, had told us yesterday that Keller has a number of other smaller, less fancy and far more modestly priced restaurant such as Buchon in the area and a really sweet burger place called Burgers and Half Bottles. And so, I thought that we could stop at it and partake of one of his burgers. And so, this was our next stop.

Having stuffed our faces with the nibbles at V.Sattui, we were not really very hungry when we arrived at Yountville to find Burger and Half Bottles. But, of course, we had to buy something—so Chriselle and AJ decided to share a Lobster Roll and Llew and I decided to share one of the burgers. And, I have to say, that it was a burger to remember. My favorite burgers, so far, have been the Shack Stack at Shake Shack, but these were a notch above those to be sure. Not only was the patty perfectly charred with the caramelized onion adding a whole new layer of flavor but there were also sour cucumber pickles that added crispness, texture and taste and made the burger memorable. I was so glad we had a chance to experience Keller’s genius.

A Walk Along the Napa River Promenade:

And with that stop made and that desire satisfied, we were able to drive further south towards the town of Napa. We were keen to take another one of the highlights that Lonely Planet had extolled—the Napa River Promenade Walk. But before we arrived there, we stopped at the Public Market which was also pointed out as a pleasant place to explore. We found it to be like a Victorian covered market or like the Milwaukee Public Market that I had just seen in Wisconsin with Marielou or like the famous Covered Market in Oxford (only much smaller). We walked through the various sections to take in the wares on display and for sale: cold cuts, deli items, cheese, fresh produce, enticing fruit and veg, a milk bar, an ice-cream parlor, a place selling kitchenware including beautiful candles, etc. Having taken all this in, we moved on.

AJ and Chriselle decided to sit out the pleasure of joining us on the walk as Chriselle’s feet are still prone to fatigue following plantar fascittis. But Llew and I could not wait to explore the riverfront which lay just a little ahead of us. We crossed the railway tracks and, in the process, saw an old-fashioned, steam train, and then made our way towards the pretty buildings in pastel colors which housed some unique shops and boutiques. This, and a number of water-front eateries and restaurants made up the sum total of this pretty walking route. As the season is past, there were just a few straggling visitors everywhere we went and we enjoyed the quietness and the emptiness of the space. We walked all the way to the water’s edge which allowed us to see the river meandering away into the distance, its banks lined on both sides by autumnal-hued trees that are gradually putting on their Fall splendour. Of course, it was a beautiful walk and we were very glad we took it.

Dinner at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) at Coppia:

And finally, after we strolled back to the Public Market where Chriselle and AJ were waiting for us, we had reached the final item on our agenda for today—dinner at the CIA at Coppia. Yes, Chriselle had made reservations for us and we were all set to enjoy a meal at the restaurant called The Grove. This is in a vast property that comprises fountains, sculpture, kitchen gardens or potagers filled with herbs and vegetable that are used in their creations, etc. As we were a tad early, we enjoyed lingering in these spaces until, eventually, we arrived at the restaurant, met the maître d’ and were seated. Yes, we had arrived early and were the first patrons of the evening, but as the day parched on, we were joined by other diners at adjoining tables.

And what of the food? Well, like all CIA restaurants, it is prepared by chefs-in-the-making under the supervision of masterchefs as part of their practical tutorials. In keeping with that concept, there was a glass partition behind which the crew worked and we could see the novices (dressed in black) and the instructors (dressed in white) as they worked their magic. The menus are always on par with those you’d find at any fine restaurant with produce usually picked freshly from their adjoining gardens.

And so, from their menu (which, I believe, changes almost daily), we picked the Roasted Bone Marrow with Braised Oxtail and Shitake Marmalade, Bagna Couda and Foccaccia Toast. Llew and I decided to share this masterpiece which was first inspired by the creation of chef Fergus Henderson of London’s St. John’s Bar and Restaurant at Farringdon (where I had first tasted, it several years ago). Needless to say, it was very good indeed. Chriselle and AJ chose the Belfiore Burrata which came with heirloom tomatoes, lemon cucumber and focaccia panzanella, Jimmy Nardella puree (we had seen and eaten these red peppers at Chez Panisse a couple of nights ago) and Salsa Verde. We also ordered a Salad for the Table and we received an absolutely humongous one filled with nixed greens and grated parmesan cheese. When it came time to pick our mains, Llew and I shared the Porcini Rigatoni Carbonara with egg yolk, guanaciale (pork cheek), Spring Peas, Pecorino Romano and Sarawak Black Pepper while Chriselle and AJ chose the Oven-Roasted California Monkfish with Penn Cove Mussels, Grilled Fennel, Vermouth-Saffron Brodo and Crème Fraiche. Our desserts were Mascapone Cheesecake with Balsamic Cherry Sauce, Amarena Cherries and Crème Fraiche with Whipped Cream and the Strawberry White Chocolate Mousse with Shortbread Cookie Crumble, Fresh Strawberries, Mascapone Whipped Cream and Chocolate Shavings. Well…it was a meal fit for a king, I’m sure you’d agree and we took our time savoring each morsel and enjoying the talents of the chefs-to-be among whom, no doubt, one day, could well be our next Thomas Keller or Alice Waters.

A Visit to the Museum of Culinary Arts:

It was while we were clearing up our bill that the waitress decided to let us into a little secret. She told us to take the elevator one floor upstairs to a most unusual (almost secret) museum. We followed her lead and ended up in an Alladin’s Cave of such amazement as to leave us slack-jawed. We were in a Museum of Culinary Arts that contained the entire lifetime’s collection of cookery implements of the famous Chuck Williams, of the famous Williams-Sonoma chain of houseware stores. Honestly, I cannot even begin to describe the variety and extent of this collection that occupies one large gallery and then spills over into the corridors in innumerable vitrines, all of which contain items he sources from various parts of Europe. Suffice it to say that there is every possible kind of pot and pan and dish not to mention instruments such as peelers and graters, food mills and presses, weights and measures—I think you get the idea. It was simply too much for the foodie in me to take in and, believe me, the evening could not possibly have ended on a more gratifying note for me…great food and a museum to boot! Wow! For me, this was a marriage made in heaven.

All that was left was for us to pile back into our car and drive to the Best Western Plus where we hunkered down for the night after another incredible day in Napa.

Until tomorrow, see ya’…