Off on our Two-Day Cruise to Ha Long Bay in Northern Vietnam

Sat, Jun 24, 2023

Off on our Two-Day Cruise to Ha Long Bay:

As in the case of a lot of the places we are exploring, my reading was cursory before departure—hence, all these places are a revelation to me. In the case of Ha Long Bay, apart from it being a bay studded with large island limestone rocks, there was really not much more I knew. Accordingly, I was excited to discover something new and interesting.

After another royal breakfast in the Harmony Hotel (another bowl of pho bo, fresh fruit and Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk), Llew and I made our way down to the lobby to await our pick-up which arrived just a few minutes later. Our guide was named Hung, but he asked us to call him Kevin. He was a very jolly, smiley kind of fellow and his English was not too bad. This was a great relief to me as I had been constantly battling with incomprehension when it came to the guides.

Off to Ha Long Bay:

The journey from Hanoi to Ha Long Bay is a long one. Also, by the time we arrived in Northern Vietnam, the monsoon had certainly made its appearance. We had been really fortunate with the weather for ten whole days while in Cambodia and Southern Vietnam. It was, I suppose, inevitable that we would encounter rainy weather in the north. It was drizzling throughout our long journey to Ha Long Bay and for most of our time there. But I need not have worried. When we were not traveling and staying dry in various forms of transportation (bus, boat), we were in our cabin on our cruise ship. Watching the rain outside the window in one of the most beautiful parts of the world I have ever seen only added to the romance of the experience.

Our bus stopped at many hotels (we were the first to be picked up at 7.45) to pick up passengers throughout the large city of Hanoi. This gave us the chance to actually explore the city by bus—a sprawling, untidy, crazy city--in many ways reminiscent of downtown Bombay. I enjoyed shooting pictures of local people going about their day—vendors with the traditional two-basket, scale-like contraption that is carried on their sturdy shoulders as they take goods to market—deeply evocative of old China. Shops were opening for a another brisky day of business selling everything from mountains of herbs and spices to religious Buddhist talismans to tourist kitsch. We had also noticed that most of the motor-bikers wore a roomy, poncho-like raincoats while they were astride their bikes—this kept them bone dry despite the constant rain. Llew decided that he would like one of those raincoats for the Bombay monsoon and we requested Kevin to let us know where we could find one. There were a lot of stores that sold very thin, flimsy, plastic raincoats that were meant to be disposable—and indeed we were handed out a few of those during our long stay at Ha Long Bay. But since Llew wanted something much more sturdy, it was a bit of a production trying to find one—about it, more later.

Visit to a Pearl Farm:

Once we began our journey out of Hanoi, we crossed a bridge over the Red River and were deep in the heart of rural Vietnam. We passed mile after mile of paddy fields with water buffalo working hard in them, men and women wearing the traditional conical hat directing their efforts. There were also plenty of banana trees everywhere. Kevin made a comfort stop to allow us to use the restroom. I was simply amazed by the spiffiness of the highway system in Vietnam. We could have been anywhere in the USA. In fact, just imagine yourself driving anywhere in the US—there are entrances, exits, clearly-marked green location and directional signs and the most amazing rest areas, complete with restrooms, souvenir shops and eateries. Taking this trip was a wonderful way for us to witness the modernity of this country and the manner in which it has taken its place amidst its wealthier siblings in Southeast Asia.

There was one more rest stop but this was more of a commercial nature—we were taken to a Pearl Farm where cultured pearls are manufactured, the process is explained to visitors and the showroom is then open for buyers. It was fascinating to see how a tiny grain of sand is inserted artificially into the mollusk—the pearl oyster which produces the nacre or shiny coating to cushion the irritation it experiences when the grain is inserted. Depending on the type of oyster—there are three: Tahitian, Southsea, Akoya—the color and size of pearl varies. Tahitian oysters produce black pearls. I thought it was an interesting education in pearl farming and pearl jewelry manufacture today. While in the good old days, all pearl fishing involved deep sea diving, today all pearls are cultured, i.e. Made to order (naturally, by the oyster within its shell, but with a lot of help from man). Sadly, I found most of the pearl jewelry to be highly marked up and when I asked for single pearl studs of 8 mm, they simply did not carry them.

I did not find the pearls I wanted but I did find a really beautiful and very luxurious silk scarf. It was actually draped over a mannequin and I fell in love with it at first sight. I asked the salesgirl if she could sell it to me, she instantly took it off the mannequin and told me its price. I expected it to be no less than $200 (because I know a quality silk scarf with a hand-rolled edge when I see one), but when she did the conversion, to my immense surprise, it was only $23! Of course, buying it was then a no-brainer for me and I asked her for a gift box and went looking for Llew to pay for it. He had disappeared to use the rest room, but I did find him, payment was made and I did go away with a really spectacularly-designed scarf, entirely in the Hermes style and of the same heft and quality.

Arrival at the Harbor:

Most tourists book a cruise tour of Ha Long and we had done so too. You can take a day cruise, staying on the boat all day, arriving in the morning and leaving at dusk, or you could do what we had signed up to do--spend a whole day and a night on the cruise ship, then awake to have breakfast, do a few more island excursions before venturing back.

Eventually, after driving for over two hours, we arrived at the Tuan Chau Pier which is the jumping off point for most visitors to Ha Long Bay. The place was like a huge ferry terminal and since it was raining, it was hugely chaotic. Dozens of buses arrive in a steady row to offload passengers headed to the Bay or to pick up those who are headed back. The port is filled with all sorts of hotels and amusement park areas as it appears that local Vietnamese families come here to spend a few days at a time and make this ferry port town their base.

When we did get into our boat that would take us to our cruise ship but the scenery outside our window was marred by the rain streaming down the panes. That said, it was super cool and very comfortable to be out in the rain (each of us had been given a disposable raincoat), although we stayed sheltered in the waiting area until our boat arrived. Then, all we had to do was hop into it as our baggage was taken care of by Kevin and his helper crew.

First Views of Ha Long Bay:

Despite the rain, we were able to recognize the ‘karsts’ or limestone rocks as they emerged from the water the closer we sailed to them. When you are near enough, you realize that they are gigantic rocks, some larger, some smaller, that tower above you. They did not have beaches, although I spied just one or two islands with narrow strips of beach. The rocks seem to arise straight out of the water—like green ice-bergs—with vegetation draped over them.

The rain added to the mystery of our first glances of the area. Skies were iron-grey and clouds ominous and mist hung mystically over the peaks of the karsts. It was like a study in black and white with many shades of grey. Overall, the impression I received was of being in an idyllic, ethereal, other-worldly place and I enjoyed it enormously.

Arrival at our Cruise Ship:

As is the convention everywhere in the world, the crew of our cruise ship were waiting to greet us when we disembarked from the small boat to climb into the ship. We were signed up with La Pandora Cruises but we soon realized that there are a bunch of companies that do similar cruises, some fancier and more expensive than others. Once on board the ship, we were given our room keys. We entered Room 305 to find it attached to the dining area or restaurant of the ship. It is a three-storey ship with a large sun deck on the top that could also double as a party hall. After we surveyed our room, examined the attached bathroom and helped ourselves to the fresh bunch of litchies that had been left for us, we freshened up and went out to the restaurant for lunch.

Lunch on Our Cruise Ship:

And what a lunch it was! A terrific five-course individually-plated meal was served to each of us (we were a group of about 15 folks) who had all, by this time, made friends with each other. There was a lovely host who kept the fun going by cracking jokes, doing magic tricks (yes, he was a magician too!), encouraging us to let our hair down, etc. All the while, the food kept coming to the table, served by really nice young chaps who were polite and very efficient.

Here was what we were served: A Chicken Coriander Soup (reminded me very much of the type you find in Ming’s Chinese Restaurant in Edison, New Jersey), Batter-Fried Squid and Grilled Jumbo Shrimp with a tangy dipping sauce; Fresh Fried Fish with a Passion Fruit Sauce, served with a rice cake, steamed broccoli and carrots (because Llew does not eat fish, he was served Sweet and Sour Chicken instead); dessert of a Passion Fruit Pudding and slice of fresh watermelon. I had ordered a margarita from the bar and Llew had a glass of Cabernet with our meal. Needless to say, every course was delicious and I was very satisfied when I got up from the table and was told we could go to our rooms and nap for an hour before the next part of our program began.

And indeed, that was exactly what both Llew and I did. Although we were unendingly charmed by the view from the picture-window in our cabin which looked directly out at the rising karsts in the water as well as all other passing sea craft, our eyes were closing and off we went for a nap. When we awoke, we were ready for the next art of our excursion—the active bit!

Kayaking and Swimming in Ha Long Bay:

The next part of our program involved a bit more energetic activity. As all the cruise ships have a smaller boat attached to the back of them, you merely move to the back of the ship and board this little boat. It’s an ingenious way of ensuring that you have conveyance instantly available if you ever have to leave the ship.

A good ten-minute sail later—a sail that is recurringly fascinating as you see all manner of boats pass by as well as karsts (rocks) rising out of the water in varying colors—we reached a very sheltered bay in which the waters were extraordinarily calm. This was where we could have the pleasure of kayaking, two in a kayak.

Now I have never kayaked and I have always been a bit scared of water—this has to do with the fact that I cannot really swim (although I did take lessons a long time ago). To be in a small craft, so close to the water, with the constant possibility that it could tip at any time and you could drown, I do not really enjoy water sports. Of course, we were all made to wear life jackets and I had one on too. But, when it came time to go kayaking, I actually chickened out and preferred to sit and watch.

This was where our new friends from Australia, Eman, Cate and Natalie, came into the picture. When they saw that I was going to sit it out, they told me that one of them would take me in the kayak. Cate, a real sweetheart, put herself forward to row with me. She had gone originally with Natalie, but after they’d been on the water for about 20 minutes, they came back, Natalie got off and I took her place with my heart in my mouth. Still, I decided to brave my fears and get into the kayak so as not to miss out on a great experience.

Well, I had the time of my life. Cate was simply wonderful at steering the kayak around and, within minutes, I felt fully confident in her hands. We were on the water for at least another twenty minutes. Fortunately, the drizzle stayed at bay but the fine mist hung upon the water and rose around the rocks. It was indescribably beautiful.

Kayaking done, the group returned to the little boat and when we were all in place, we were motored off to another venue—another sheltered bay where the waters were very still and not too deep. Of course, most of the group had worn their swimsuits under their cover-ups, but Llew and I were dreaming when Kevin had instructed us to put on our swim gear. So, again, we decided to sit it out. Llew, of course, is a strong swimmer and could easily have gone into the water, but he felt embarrassed at not having his trunks. It was I who urged him to go in his underwear! Who cares, anyway???And of course, Cate and Natalie were not having me sit on the side lines. They absolutely insisted I use the ladder on the side of the boat to go inside (with my float, of course) and they would take me all around the boat. And naturally, because I did not want to miss this experience either, off I went with them, after I peeled off my shorts! And boy, was it fun! The water was silken against my skin and the absolute perfect temperate to feel heavenly. My new friends were such fun and yet very sensitive to my fears. They guided me along and very soon, I found myself paddling along quite happily with them. I cannot say I actually swum, but it was fun to be in the water and not to miss out on the activities that they were so enjoying. Llew too had a lovely dip and found it deeply refreshing. We have both decided to definitely join our swim club in Bombay next year.

A Cookery Class and Dinner on the Cruise Ship:

Back on the boat after a good two hours, we were all ready for showers in order to wash off the salt water from our bodies and looked forward to getting dressed for dinner. Most people had carried along a semi-formal sort of outfit for the evening’s dinner and they all dressed and made their appearance in time for drinks. I proudly wore the new dressed I’d bought from Uniqlo and the fabulous new scarf I had picked up yesterday en route. It looked as classy as I had expected. Drinks were not covered by our fees, but we were offered a free cocktail with every two cocktails ordered. Llew and I ended up going through one Singapore Sling, one Pina Colada and one Mai Tai.

Meanwhile, Kevin was getting the ‘stage’ ready for his cookery demonstration. He built several ‘stations’ with a whole lot of ingredients kept ready on the side. He also had rice paper wrappers and showed us how to dampen them just a little, enough to make them pliable. Next he demonstrated the way we fill them with a filling that included glass noodles, finely sliced vegetables and minced pork. After he had made a couple himself, teaching us how to roll them, he let us have a go. And several of us ended up making rolls that he then took over to the deep fryer to fry in hot oil. These were sliced and served up with our dinner as appetizers.

After the cooking demo, we were free to kick back and enjoy our drinks and nibbles (fresh fruit, rice crackers) when the Australian ladies invited Llew and me to join them at their table. We did just that and ended up having a really fun dinner with them. Dinner was a buffet affair with a large number of items placed alongside our tables and we were free to go up and help ourselves. There was pumpkin soup and a variety of other starters: were wonderful oysters stuffed with banana flower and onions, more grilled jumbo shrimp, salads galore and when one had done with eating those delicacies, there were any number of meats and noodles to really fill you up. We had fresh sliced pineapple for dessert.

Dancing on the Deck Followed:

When our meal was done and every single one of us had eaten our fill, Kevin had many suggestions by which we could while away the time: watch a movie, go fishing on the lower deck (he provided rods and bait) or go up on the sun deck for some karaoke and dancing. No marks for guessing what Llew and I did! Of course, we went upstairs with most of the young people on our boat including the vivacious Brenda, an economist in Singapore and her boyfriend Thomas who was the life of the party. Well, they got the karaoke going, a British foursome joined in the fun headed by Gavin and Deborah, our Ozzie friends were in their element and the party really got rocking as we all took to the floor and danced. We had such a fun time!

But, by the end of a very long day, there was only so much left of our energy and about 11.00 pm, Llew and I called it a day. We had a poke around the fishing deck to see if those fishing had caught anything, but they had absolutely no bites.

It was time for us to go back to our room and actually draw the curtains for bed. We’d wake up in the morning to the incredible sight of unspoiled Ha Long Bay, a World Heritage site, looking right back at us.

Until tomorrow…