After a short (50 minute) flight from Bangkok to Siem Reap, we were at our destination. My window seat allowed me to get beautiful pictures of Thailand from the air. I am particularly proud of a picture I took of a Buddhist Wat (Temple) complex that clearly shows the various buildings that comprise it. Also, my aerial views allowed me to see the Chao Phraya River that meanders through Thailand and flows through the city of Bangkok.
We touched down in Siem Reap, after consuming a whole lunch on the flight—a marvel of inflight service—ready to clear Immigration (we had obtained e-visas in Bombay), picking up our backpacks and leaving the airport concourse that is constructed like a grand pagoda. Our guide Sen Su arrived a few minutes later (our flight landed ahead of schedule) and led us to the van which would be our transport for the next three days. He also introduced us to our driver, Thon, who stashed our baggage away and sped off to our hotel.
About 15 minutes later, in the heart of the Old Market, we found our four-star hotel, the Royal Crown Hotel and Spa, where checking-in formalities took about fifteen minutes. We used the facilities in our beautifully-appointed room, changed our footwear (from shoes to sandals), lightened our backpacks and set off. Our Guide and driver were waiting down in the lobby where we had enjoyed a refreshing welcome drink. The weather is exactly like Bombay’s at the moment—hot and humid. We are glad that we are seasoned to the Tropical weather now and don’t find it too oppressive. That said, we were super grateful for our air-conditioned bus and the cold bottles of water and refreshing eau de cologne towels that our driver kept producing! A small touch that was hugely comforting!
Walking Tour of Kompong Phluk Floating Village and Boat Ride on the Tonle Sap Lake:After we drove through the Old Market area of Siem Reap, we left the small township behind us and drove through the rural areas towards the Tonle Sap Lake. For a while, we followed the course of a muddy, yellow river until we arrived at the village of Kompong Phluk where we were going to be introduced to a very interesting way of life of a poor, rural fishing community. During the rainy season (which will begin any time now), the river rises, breaks its banks and floods the surrounding plains, This works beautifully for the rice paddies which extend as far as eye can see. However, it is not so good for the farmers and fishermen who make their living on the river as their homes get water-logged each year.
To combat the power of nature, the villages along the river bank are built on stilts that are at least one storey high. Villagers reach the main level of the home on tall ladders during the dry season (which is right now). Once the monsoon begins ad the water rises, they use boats to row to and from so that their homes appear like floating villages. In the dry season (which is when we visited), this village of stilted skyscrapers is fascinating as the main level (at the top of the ladders) doubles us as a terrace garden.
Villagers make their living by fishing, drying fish, smoking fish, making fish sauce—items that are common ingredients of consumption in Khmer cooking (the cuisine of the native people of Cambodia). We were taken for a walking tour along the Main Street of the village that is lined on both sides by their stilted homes. We watched a smoker in the process of smoking fish that is threaded through stiff sticks and placed on a grill that cooks it with smoke. The stench was awful (as might be expected wherever fish is being dried) and I did not find it necessary to stay too long.
A little later, we were led to a dock where traditional, blue-painted wooden boats were moored. Our boat-ride had been pre-ranged and paid for: all we had to do was board the boat which we had to ourselves with just our guide. He kept up a running commentary on the lifestyle and culture of Cambodia’s river communities and taught us a great deal, in the process, about the sustainability of life in such harsh conditions. The boat ride reminded us of a similar boat ride we had taken on the Rio Negre in Costa Rica, about four years ago, when we had spied all sorts of fascinating wildlife in the trees and on the river banks. Here, the absence of all wildlife was conspicuous, although Sen Su told us that there are crocodiles in the water.
Very soon, the river flowed into the massive Tonle Sap Lake, a body of natural water that further sustains human life through fishing. We stopped after a while on a floating pontoon that enabled us to enter a floating restaurant where we could have refreshed ourselves with beverages or nibbles. As neither one of us were hungry, we merely took a tour of the restaurant, looked at the baby crocodile that the owner of the restaurant is rearing for its meat (yes, Cambodians eat crocodile!) and returned to the boat for the ride back. Overall, this was not much of an excursion and I would not recommend anyone takes it. Perhaps it is better in the rainy season when the water level is impressively higher.
A Visit to Artisans D’Angkor:Since we knew we’d be visiting the National Museum in Phnom Pehn, we decided to skip the local Angkor National Museum and use the time to see the work of Cambodian artisans. The best place to see their skills is at a place called Artisans D’Angkor where carvers, mainly in stone (sandstone and soapstone) and wood demonstrate the intricacies of their craft. You can also visit rooms where women sit at looms weaving silk thread into colorful scarves and where silver smiths create beautiful little objects d’art. We made our way through the place with the help of a local guide who then led us to the showroom which was filled with the most exquisite items—silk fabrics and ready made garments, scarves, table linen, carved figurines, jewelry, lacquerware, etc. As we no longer buy anything when we travel, we merely looked around, appreciated the craftsmanship and walked out. The setting of this place is particularly lovely—it is a garden-like venue (that reminded me of Auroville hear Pondicherry in Tamil Nadu in India), filled with lush, green vegetation.
Exploring the Old Market and Getting a Takeaway Dinner:We piled back into the van and were dropped off in the Old Market where we became oriented to the location of our hotel, vis a vis the market. Filled with handicraft stalls that sell all sorts of fabrics, cottons, silks, and other souvenirs, we picked up our magnet of Angkor and Siem Reap and left. Actually, with barely any sleep all night and sightseeing right after we landed, we were ready for a nap. We said Bye to our guide, found our own way back to our hotel and curled up for a shut eye.
About two hours later, we felt human enough again to go out in search of dinner. Lonely Planet had recommended Pub Street—a street lined by wonderful watering holes and all manner of local food. However, we’d had a glass of wine and almonds in our hotel and since we did not want to waste time sitting in a restaurant, we decided to get some local takeaway food.
Pub Street was heaving by the time we arrived there. It is a long and dazzling street, lined on both sides by brightly-lit, neon-signed restaurants that offer everything other than food and drink—from massages and tattoos to fish who gnaw at the dead skin of your feet while you sit with your feet dangling in aquariums filled with guppies! Think Bourbon Street inNew Orleans or Brook Street in Memphis, Tennessee. Same buzz, same energy.
After walking down the length of one of the streets and segueing off in both directions, we found the Phlock Restaurant and Bar which was packed with locals and seemed like the best place to pick up local food. Except that the waiters had a hard time understanding our order—we wanted a large helping of rice with a Khmer Chicken Curry with Vegetables, divided into two portions as neither one of us was very hungry. Eventually, they did understand what we wanted and we left with our order in two separate boxes!
Back in our hotel, we called my Dad, used the WiFi to text friends and family, watched a spot of TV (BBC and CNBC) while eating our dinner. There was only energy left to shower, brush and floss our teeth and get ready for bed before it was lights out for us and the end of a first really packed day.
Until tomorrow…
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